Sorry I meant to retain the top mounts and the strut brace I will get on paint and draw what I mean
It should work it's just a PITA to fab up
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It should work it's just a PITA to fab upYeah exactly Tony or in the case of the Pug one's then you can set for max castor and then turn the top mount round to adjust the camber too!
I should be going to collect a rad from the people selling those BMW one's next week so I will have a look at them but I am very dubious about the bearing and also the size of the opening at the bottom of the bearing it doesn't look like it would allow much movement
Thanks for that Kenny, I couldn't find that section of the blue book earlier but it confirms what I thought
This is what I was thinking of! Hopefully someone could fabricate it better than I can draw it on paint!
All it would be it plasma cutter through the middle of the dome, then cut around it, move it back 35mm build up the turret to the same height, weld it together and then cut out from underneath
All it would be it plasma cutter through the middle of the dome, then cut around it, move it back 35mm build up the turret to the same height, weld it together and then cut out from underneath
Not much, maybe 1/2 of a second a little less on a short circuit, but helps with tyre wear and a few other things so I thought it's worth sorting while the car is in bits. What do you think Sam just leave it be?
Id say its a hygiene factor that will gain you a very small amount compared to the effort required to implement it. Its something we tried with the KTM and found it was using up to much time, money and effort for a small reward. As a driver its something you can learn to deal with.
If I was you I'd look at achieving the maximum mid corner speed you can, purely because its what is most important to lap times and success. If I had your car I'd look at getting the CoG (center of gravity) as low as possible and getting the weight distribution spot on.
Id also concentrate on getting the suspension settings as good as possible for achieving the maximum mid corner speed. Mainly spring damper rates and tyre pressures. This will also help you learn how to drive the car. (Not saying you cant drive just saying there is always time to come from learning the car) Whilst doing this you will learn how to feel the car better too and this help with things such as Toe and camber settings which are not as important as people think.
I appreciate steering feel is a nice thing to have but ultimately corner speed is where you want to be focusing your efforts.
If I was you I'd look at achieving the maximum mid corner speed you can, purely because its what is most important to lap times and success. If I had your car I'd look at getting the CoG (center of gravity) as low as possible and getting the weight distribution spot on.
Id also concentrate on getting the suspension settings as good as possible for achieving the maximum mid corner speed. Mainly spring damper rates and tyre pressures. This will also help you learn how to drive the car. (Not saying you cant drive just saying there is always time to come from learning the car) Whilst doing this you will learn how to feel the car better too and this help with things such as Toe and camber settings which are not as important as people think.
I appreciate steering feel is a nice thing to have but ultimately corner speed is where you want to be focusing your efforts.
The steering feel isn't really the issue for me, the main thing for me with the current 1.5 degree's neg caster is when the car is loaded up and the camber is working well on the loaded corner the unloaded corner the camber is having the opposite effect. By increasing the caster and then reducing the camber it should then increase the dynamic camber I think which will improve contact patches and stop the issue I had at Donington where I was getting wheel spin on the nearside front while going round craners. I am only regurgitating what I have been told so I could well have got confused along the way.
I thought the caster should also have a good positive affect on the mid corner speed.
CoG is a very good point and one that I haven't really thought of in my current plans, weight distribution I am working on as much as possible and I am changing the layout of quite a few things in the car to try and improve this.
Yes got all those bases covered once the car is back together
Thanks for the advice Sam I really appreciate it and I will look into the CoG which was an oversight by me.
I thought the caster should also have a good positive affect on the mid corner speed.
CoG is a very good point and one that I haven't really thought of in my current plans, weight distribution I am working on as much as possible and I am changing the layout of quite a few things in the car to try and improve this.
Yes got all those bases covered once the car is back together
Thanks for the advice Sam I really appreciate it and I will look into the CoG which was an oversight by me.
Mid corner you are only really using one front wheel anyway, so makes no difference if you get that to the right amount of camber via camber alone or camber and induced camber from caster, and like Sam says at that point tow doesnt matter either, as the other wheel is more or less off the ground so you just steer to where suits the one that matters, lol
I R confused lol! I will try my best to get caster and sort out the roll centres/ CoG
One point about wheel spin is, as the car straightens up the inside wheel will find traction naturally where as providing it with more grip may just induce power on understeer.
I enjoy reading about your project James its certainly a good one, just make sure you're not adding problems with smaller modifications when that time, money and effort could be spent on track time which will help you the most right now. (Something that was certainly true for me)
I enjoy reading about your project James its certainly a good one, just make sure you're not adding problems with smaller modifications when that time, money and effort could be spent on track time which will help you the most right now. (Something that was certainly true for me)
Good point I hadn't thought about that
Yes it is very true, just wanted to make sure I have covered the basics while the car is in bits. Hopefully I will get plenty of testing time when it's all back together! Can't wait
Yes it is very true, just wanted to make sure I have covered the basics while the car is in bits. Hopefully I will get plenty of testing time when it's all back together! Can't wait
Agreed improving the driver is always the cheapest option but if you do want to improve the clio chassis, look at roll centres as well as bump steer as clio's are quite out of sorts when lowered. Correct me if im wrong but a correct roll centre will gain more time than caster. Slot your coilovers for camber, been done by manufacturers for years.
For strut tops I would just cut an oblong piece and spin it 180 deg for easyness James, no need to cut up and re shape, hard to explain without a pic. Your not going to need caster adjustment at club level really, just get as much as you can.
For strut tops I would just cut an oblong piece and spin it 180 deg for easyness James, no need to cut up and re shape, hard to explain without a pic. Your not going to need caster adjustment at club level really, just get as much as you can.
When I talk about CoG I don't mean decking it on the coilovers.
Proven parts are less likely to break though compared to modified bits, e.g 'modded' V2s vs ASTs.
This could go on all night. LOL
lol! Will see what the budget allows for
Oh yes I agree too and don't deny that I have a long way to go
Not sure how to sort Rollcentres as I don't want to go down the cup racer route and don't really fancy having to modify my subframe. Bump steer is already an issue on mine and mine isn't even very low! No you could well be right
Camber is not an issue thankfully!Sorry I still don't understand lol!
Yeah I presume you mean getting as many items of the car as low as possible?
Lol don't worry i'm going out soon so won't be able to reply
Wow nice work by Ktec
Yeah AST's are slotted but only gives a couple of deg's so I run camber bolt's too and anyone who saw the car at BTM when I fit them on full camber will testify they had more camber than even the euro scene would like
Yeah AST's are slotted but only gives a couple of deg's so I run camber bolt's too and anyone who saw the car at BTM when I fit them on full camber will testify they had more camber than even the euro scene would like
Good luck with it Sam
My dissertation was started 2 days before the hand in so it sounds like you already have one up on me If you need a car to experiment on then.....
Good luck with it Sam
If you need a car to experiment on then.....
Doing it for the Boxster, naturally. Hopefully getting it on the shaker rig soon!
Awesome will be very interesting Wow! Let me know if you struggle getting onto one I might be able to help
Wow! Let me know if you struggle getting onto one I might be able to helpI can't imagine that Prodive are as good as Prodrive could be at lectures :rasp:
Jeez! I'm going to go with no rear mirror then next year lol! Maybe I need to loose some weight
Colin chapman used to say the 7:1 rule about unsprung weight, are you sure you arent confusing that with sprung weight low down? As I cant imagine that the same is true of sprung weight on the floor versus sprung weight up high TBH.
Dont get me wrong, im sure its a lot better, but just the 7 times thing would make it as good as unsprung, and that seems unlikely!
IIRC there isn't much he can do apart from the windows with regards to weight up top? Unless he's feeling flush and puts fibre glass panels all round
Yeah losing weight high up is going to be hard for ash, well other than from himself of course!
unless he is going dry sump you will struggle for clearance on the subframe if you just try and drop it.
Plus driveshaft angles can get bad of course
Golf GTD Mk7
That's a fair point. Most racing drivers won't weigh much more than 10stone. Cheapest way to lose net weight Ash
Golf GTD Mk7
Good point. Lowering all fluid reservoirs also might be useful. Maybe forward behind the bumper?
Weight in front of the front axle line is bad, causes under steer.
just a thought but wouldn't it be better to make adjustable low arms then piss about with strut tops but one thing for sure I'm with James on this one that well he's where he is now with the car striped he may aswell make it so everything is adjustable if he haded of striped the car then I'd be saying seat time and find the very best set up for as many tracks as possible but as the car striped may as well do everything he can to improve it.
rather than concetrating on the top, maybe investigate moving the wheel position at the bottom:
i`ve just got some adjustable wishbone for mine (106, not this clio tat haha) it retains std suspension pickups and still allows a bit of adjustment....
i`ve just got some adjustable wishbone for mine (106, not this clio tat haha) it retains std suspension pickups and still allows a bit of adjustment....
Problem with that is he hasn't got the room at the front currently to move it that far at the bottom.
I did point out to him that the advantage of doing the bottom is effectively moving the c of g backwards of the axle line too, and extending the wheelbase slightly would help with stability in faster corners too.
I did point out to him that the advantage of doing the bottom is effectively moving the c of g backwards of the axle line too, and extending the wheelbase slightly would help with stability in faster corners too.
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