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Choose me a subwoofer :)
- Thread starter Keano
- Start date
lol! my alpine type r sub sounds like a beast and is a good size to still get shopping in. still goes to silly low notes yet sounds tight and punchy playing metal (genre of choice!)
link:
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alpine-swr-1022d.html
link:
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alpine-swr-1022d.html
New JL audio 10WO- £80 now, absolute bargain!!!
Ignore the power figures of the amplifier. It will most likely have been measured at 14.4 volts so is kind of irrelevant tbh. Dont worry about the wattage of the subwoofer either because it really is a pointless figure!!
Just because a wattage figure is higher it doesnt mean that it will play either louder or better etc etc.
Ignore the power figures of the amplifier. It will most likely have been measured at 14.4 volts so is kind of irrelevant tbh. Dont worry about the wattage of the subwoofer either because it really is a pointless figure!!
Just because a wattage figure is higher it doesnt mean that it will play either louder or better etc etc.
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:lolup::lolup:
Alpines obviously one of the best and most reputable.
Cant remember which model but its either the Type r or Type s which is very good.
Not as good as a JL sub tho
well sell both and the JL stuff is far superior!!Even our alpine rep agrees and we built his alpine demo car lol
Polo + Micra
why?? it wont do it any harm. Ive had a JL audio 750/1 HD amp running a JLW3 rated at 250 watts and absolutely no problem at all
wattage is a very dangerous subject!!Yeah and its rated at 12v too and JL HD and Slash amps produde what they say they do at any impedance between 1 and 8 ohms. You cant really beat JL subwoofers. The technology in them is fantastic and so too is the way they sound
yeah but is the gain set so it gives it the full berries as 3x the power is asking alot tbh
yeah the Rips tech is a brilliant piece of engineering as my 1000/1 hasn't put a foot wrong running at nearly 1200wRMS
The gain has nothing to do with the power the amp puts out. Its a level. It doesnt change the power of the amp aslong as it working within its operational range of impedances and supply voltages
The 1000/1 is a great amp. Produces a real 1000 watts of power all the time. (at that all important 12 VOLTS!!)
Unlike most amps out here. It wont do 1200 watts but 1000 real watts is more than adequate
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BMW M4; S1000 RR
Surely you'd look at changing the settings for a new sub anyway. Especially seeing as you blew your last one up!
Edit wrong person!
yeah but is the gain set so it gives it the full berries as 3x the power is asking alot tbh
yeah the Rips tech is a brilliant piece of engineering as my 1000/1 hasn't put a foot wrong running at nearly 1200wRMS
It is a bit much for that sub but having lots of power is far better than having too little. Just have to listen to it with ur head screwed on.
Less likely to damage anything with plenty of power
I would put money on it blew up because of lack of power and the amp not bein of particularly good quality!
Yeah usually too little power and clipping as u said.
A speaker thats being over powered makes a hideous noise lol.
BMW M4; S1000 RR
What's clipping and how can you detect it?
Indeed it is. 99.9% of the time
It happens when an amplifier is driven beyond its capabilty, put simply.
Thats why u should ignore most amplifier output claims that maufacturers give you because its likely to be bo**ox!!
BMW M4; S1000 RR
lol so you can't hear it then.
I'm guessing you wouldn't get this unless you put all the settings to max on an amp?
I'm guessing you wouldn't get this unless you put all the settings to max on an amp?
Or just look in the customers boot when he says it sounds crap or its not loud enough!! You find a mosfet purple amp in there and that come with free distortion out of the box!
No u can get it whatever the setting are within reason.
Anyway this poor lad just wants a subwoofer
Wow, decide to have an evening with the Mrs & I miss a little debate I could have entered....
A few facts that hopefully will dispel tripe already posted....
Most amplifier output claims are based on 14.4v, this is the normal charging voltage from an alternator....
The amp in question is CEA rated, so will do what it says on the box....
The gain control attenuates the signals input voltage to match the amp, which in turn permits the amps voltage rails to achieve full voltage at full volume....If it is set too low, full output will not be achieved, if it is set too high, full output will be achieved too soon causing 'clipping' & excessive heat build up....
Why are you so obsessed with 12v???
Whether the excess power is delivered by a correctly set up high output amp or an incorrectly set up low output amp, the issue is the same, too much power creating excess heat....
A coil receiving a clipped input will be acting in a similar fashion to a heater element at the point of clip...Getting hotter & hotter till it deforms & comes into contact within the motor gap.....
If it blew due to lack of power, then why don't they blow when being played at low volume?????
The RMS voltage of a 'clipped' signal is much higher than that of an 'unclipped' signal, so heat generated from a 'clipped' signal is much greater than that of an 'unclipped' signal.....Essentially, 'clipping' = BAD NEWS....
A 'clipped' signal can be heard as distortion, basically as the speaker cone reaches full excursion, (max power), it simply stops and sits at full power for the extended time spent at full voltage, (extended duration at the peak of the wave form), whilst the cone is stationary heat build up in the coils is greatly increased, (in basic terms, the coil acts in a similar fashion to a heater element)....
This would be easier to explain using a sketch.....You should at first realise that a speaker receives voltage through both the negative & positive terminals, positive voltage pushes the cone outward, negative voltage pulls the cone inward....an amplifier has two voltage rails, ones positive, ones negative....once the max output voltage of these rails is achieved, then clipping will occur, (no increase in volume can be had once an amp is clipping although RMS voltage will increase).....
KEY;
Trace A & B = Amplifier running at full volume, (GAIN SET CORRECTLY)
Trace C & D = Amplifier running 'clipped', (GAIN SET TOO HIGH)...
Trace E & F = Amplifier running below full output, (GAIN SET TOO LOW)...
If you check the peaks of TRACES C & D you will see the time or duration spent at full voltage is much greater, (the wave form is squared off or 'clipped'), this is where the heat generated is at its greatest.....
Not sure I even understand that statement????!!!!!
Clipping can actually be heard quite well if you use a 1KHz tone recorded at 0dB....Whilst playing this tone increase the volume level on your Head Unit and at the point of 'clip' the pitch will alter....If you then repeat this step whilst increasing an amplifiers gain control it will again alter in pitch as the amp 'clips', then simply back off the gain slightly for safe use....
When running this test with a sub you should use a 50Hz tone recorded at 0dB, although it is much more difficult to actually pick out the point of 'clip'....
Much better to set using a scope....
A few facts that hopefully will dispel tripe already posted....
You read the box didn't you!!!
Most amplifier output claims are based on 14.4v, this is the normal charging voltage from an alternator....
The amp in question is CEA rated, so will do what it says on the box....
Good advice....Over powering a sub to that extent could cause over excursion as well as exceeding the coils thermal limits....
In your initial post you recommend ignoring wattage!!!!!why?? it wont do it any harm. Ive had a JL audio 750/1 HD amp running a JLW3 rated at 250 watts and absolutely no problem at all
Interesting theory mate....Just like saying the volume control on the Head Unit doesn't affect how loud it is.....Oh, hang on....The volume control does affect how loud it is....The gain has nothing to do with the power the amp puts out. Its a level. It doesnt change the power of the amp aslong as it working within its operational range of impedances and supply voltages
The 1000/1 is a great amp. Produces a real 1000 watts of power all the time. (at that all important 12 VOLTS!!)
Unlike most amps out here. It wont do 1200 watts but 1000 real watts is more than adequate
The gain control attenuates the signals input voltage to match the amp, which in turn permits the amps voltage rails to achieve full voltage at full volume....If it is set too low, full output will not be achieved, if it is set too high, full output will be achieved too soon causing 'clipping' & excessive heat build up....
Why are you so obsessed with 12v???
NEWS FLASH The only way to burn out a coil is with too much power....
Whether the excess power is delivered by a correctly set up high output amp or an incorrectly set up low output amp, the issue is the same, too much power creating excess heat....
A coil receiving a clipped input will be acting in a similar fashion to a heater element at the point of clip...Getting hotter & hotter till it deforms & comes into contact within the motor gap.....
Could of made a few quid here....It blew because it was receiving too much power from a poorly set up amplifier which exceeded its thermal handling limits....
If it blew due to lack of power, then why don't they blow when being played at low volume?????
Holy crap, I concur with Mr Dink....Must be coming down with something....Probably a touch of DC.....:rasp:
Amplifiers have 'gain' controls so the input signal voltage can be adjusted to permit the amp to achieve full output power, if the gain is set too low, then the amp won't achieve full output, if the gain is set too high, then the amp will reach full output too soon & signal 'clipping' will occur....
The RMS voltage of a 'clipped' signal is much higher than that of an 'unclipped' signal, so heat generated from a 'clipped' signal is much greater than that of an 'unclipped' signal.....Essentially, 'clipping' = BAD NEWS....
A 'clipped' signal can be heard as distortion, basically as the speaker cone reaches full excursion, (max power), it simply stops and sits at full power for the extended time spent at full voltage, (extended duration at the peak of the wave form), whilst the cone is stationary heat build up in the coils is greatly increased, (in basic terms, the coil acts in a similar fashion to a heater element)....
This would be easier to explain using a sketch.....You should at first realise that a speaker receives voltage through both the negative & positive terminals, positive voltage pushes the cone outward, negative voltage pulls the cone inward....an amplifier has two voltage rails, ones positive, ones negative....once the max output voltage of these rails is achieved, then clipping will occur, (no increase in volume can be had once an amp is clipping although RMS voltage will increase).....
KEY;
Trace A & B = Amplifier running at full volume, (GAIN SET CORRECTLY)
Trace C & D = Amplifier running 'clipped', (GAIN SET TOO HIGH)...
Trace E & F = Amplifier running below full output, (GAIN SET TOO LOW)...
If you check the peaks of TRACES C & D you will see the time or duration spent at full voltage is much greater, (the wave form is squared off or 'clipped'), this is where the heat generated is at its greatest.....
Not sure I even understand that statement????!!!!!
Clipping can actually be heard quite well if you use a 1KHz tone recorded at 0dB....Whilst playing this tone increase the volume level on your Head Unit and at the point of 'clip' the pitch will alter....If you then repeat this step whilst increasing an amplifiers gain control it will again alter in pitch as the amp 'clips', then simply back off the gain slightly for safe use....
When running this test with a sub you should use a 50Hz tone recorded at 0dB, although it is much more difficult to actually pick out the point of 'clip'....
Much better to set using a scope....
1.2 Clio
Or oversized box. Or bad coupling, or tuning way under Fs. Many more too
.my 2p http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/ascendant-audio-assassin-10.html?SID=gvuqrd6k93hrpsj4s6rehk18b4
hi mick :dead::star:
53 Renault clio 1.2 16V