What's new
By:
ClioSport.net

This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

Detailing Chat & Questions Thread

leeds2592 said:
That's the one I've been looking at, have you used it? If so, how'd you find it? Can it just be used with water/shampoo or does it need lube?
Click to expand...
I've only used it a few times mate, seems fine so far.
I just use a mix of snow foam and shampoo, but I'm no detailer.

I'm sure people like @Scrooge and @yellowdave will be able to give you better advice than me. [emoji2]
 
Knuckles said:
Although it shouldn't need it being a new car, I'd recommend decontaminating too

Pre wash
Rinse
Wash
Rinse
De tar
Rinse
De iron
Rinse
Wash
Rinse

Then pat dry and look out for any marks/scratches/defects before considering polishing. The less you rub/touch the paint, the better.

Af tough coat is a fairly easy to apply and durable sealant. It seems to last alright on wheels too.

Someone will be along to suggest dedicated paint and wheel sealants though.

And you don't need to seal and then wax, it's a bit overkill and if the sealant doesn't last as long as the wax, the sealant will kill off the wax prematurely when it dies off.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Fair comment on the sealant and wax. (My logic was sealant to protect the paint and then wax to add some shine).

Coby. said:
Not being a dick but are you buying the car or leasing? If buying I'd probably cough up the money and get a pro to give it a new car protection detail.. Wheels off and sealed, paint and glass etc.
Guessing the bmw is a hefty sum so a few hundred getting it detailed at the start would be my advice.
Click to expand...

I have purchased it. (PCP with £10k deposit, then will be purchasing it outright in 30 months). Another £300 to get a pro to do something is just another expense lol It's already costing a fortune! I do see the logic but probably a cost I'd rather avoid if possible. My previous results on my cars have always been relatively good, just looking to improve it slightly.
 
DB. said:
I have purchased it. (PCP with £10k deposit, then will be purchasing it outright in 30 months). Another £300 to get a pro to do something is just another expense lol It's already costing a fortune! I do see the logic but probably a cost I'd rather avoid if possible. My previous results on my cars have always been relatively good, just looking to improve it slightly.
Click to expand...

Not really the thread to discuss this..... but are you not better off on HP rather than PCP if you plan to buy it outright from the start?
 
JamesBryan said:
Not really the thread to discuss this..... but are you not better off on HP rather than PCP if you plan to buy it outright from the start?
Click to expand...

For a variety of reasons, including mortgage, flexibility, size of monthly payments etc, no. (Definitely would be in certain cases)

Was a better option to have a smaller monthly payment, less impact on mortgage applications, then just a shortfall of about £8k at the end of the term to pay for the balloon. I have kept £12k aside to go towards the balloon, however that remains in my bank and not in BMW's and I also have the flexibility incase things change etc. .
 
A wax and sealant do the same thing. They just have different names as ones typically a synthetic whereas the other a more organic recipe. The sealant topped with wax is more for a visual reason in my mind. Typically a synthetic sealant will last longer than a nice glossy wax. So top one with the other and you get good durability and the initial look of the wax. Colli 476 is a paste sealant and solvent heavy meaning it performs better applied directly to clean paint. If not durability may be reduced. And it's not the most glossy of waxes. It's also incredibly durable so apply colli 476 as the base sealant and if you want then apply a nice glossy wax over the top but it's not really necessary.

As for having a pro detail a new car. They typically offer the protection from a nano coating meaning there is no need to use traditional wax and sealants as the coating will last approx 2 years or more. But also makes washing and keeping the car clean and looking fresh so so much easier. The initial cost of a detail on a new car is significantly less than on a used car and it's going to help maintain the new finish for longer.

With the correct maintenance the need for using clay can be greatly reduced. And to be honest you really need to expect to see some marring to the paint with even the most delicate of uses. A clay mitt can inflict terrible marring that almost looks like sanding flatting marks. But they are a lot quicker to use than traditional clay, but, not quite as at getting the finer contamination. With any clay or mitt, diluted QD or shampoo and water mix can be used. Even with bilt hamber wax I still will not use plain water. If you maintains your car, keep it well protected, use tar and iron removers when it's time to re wax and even when you do use clay you'll find very little bonded contaminants
 
What's a good upholstery cleaner chaps? My rear bench has what looks like water drops on it. Or am I best finding someone to wet vac it? Also worth noting they are a alcantara esk material.

25466200120_98fa8fe80e_k.jpg
20160313_131327
 
Last edited:
Yellow Dave said:
With the correct maintenance the need for using clay can be greatly reduced. And to be honest you really need to expect to see some marring to the paint with even the most delicate of uses. A clay mitt can inflict terrible marring that almost looks like sanding flatting marks. But they are a lot quicker to use than traditional clay, but, not quite as at getting the finer contamination. With any clay or mitt, diluted QD or shampoo and water mix can be used. Even with bilt hamber wax I still will not use plain water. If you maintains your car, keep it well protected, use tar and iron removers when it's time to re wax and even when you do use clay you'll find very little bonded contaminants
Click to expand...

Sod it, I'll save £12 and use the BH clay I've got in the garage. At least I'll have a bit of time to do it over the Easter Weekend.
 
Scrooge said:
Shampoo and water is lube, use plenty and be very gentle. Cloths mar everything to f**k.
Click to expand...
Listen to this man. The more I use mitts the more I use proper lubes and also snowfoam the car to aid lubrication.
 
As much as I think you give some poor advice on this forum I do love Zaino so bravo for sticking with the old school. Used to love layering Zaino on my own cars. Layers of Z5 and layers of Z6 or Z8.
 
gally said:
As much as I think you give some poor advice on this forum I do love Zaino so bravo for sticking with the old school. Used to love layering Zaino on my own cars. Layers of Z5 and layers of Z6 or Z8.
Click to expand...

Feeling is mutual

Though there's a lot of people who do it full time and I cringe at the recommendations and techniques they use

Each to their own I say

But Zaino is great, always has been and always will be
 
Rev kit is the only product to let af down

Stick to a polish from a company that makes proper polishes and concentrates on them like scholl and Koch chemie
 
Just used Wolfs Nano glaze, similar to CarPro essence and it really did hide a lot of swirls and I've just put a layer of Bodyguard on. Just waiting for it to harden up...
 
Davyy said:
Yeah I can feel them slightly. Ive attacked it with 'restore' and tried different speeds etc but no luck 😧
Click to expand...

Have a look at my 'naughty blue 1.2' write up. And ignore the colour name error.

I masked/removed some fairly harsh scratches with a combination of polish and glaze.

How are you machining it? What speeds/feeds etc.

Read up on the zenith technique, it's all I use and I get decent results.

image.jpg127_zpsenlc9vl8.jpg


image.jpg130_zpsepecuidr.jpg


image.jpg129_zpsifmiohu1.jpg


image.jpg131_zpsaopo4v3r.jpg
 
Hi guys...
What wheel cleaner would you recommend for wheels that are caked in brake dust/dirt. Something fairly strong. Also for my own car what pad would you recommend I use for CGV36 using the da.

Cheers
 
scotty10 said:
Hi guys...
What wheel cleaner would you recommend for wheels that are caked in brake dust/dirt. Something fairly strong. Also for my own car what pad would you recommend I use for CGV36 using the da.

Cheers
Click to expand...

I've been using Meguiars wheel brightener recently and despite me not being a massive fan of their products I've found this stuff to be very very effective.
 
I'll have a look at that. KKD brake away looks pretty good also. Has anyone tried apc pure acid wheel cleaner. Cheap as chips for 5L.
 
scotty10 said:
Hi guys...
What wheel cleaner would you recommend for wheels that are caked in brake dust/dirt. Something fairly strong. Also for my own car what pad would you recommend I use for CGV36 using the da.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Auto finesse imperial or wonder wheels hot wheels (these both have mild fallout removers) followed by iron X or/and iron X paste if the fallout is especially heavy.
 
Imperial is a general alkali based but neutralised pH wheel cleaner and no fallout remover. Iron out is the fallout remover.

It depends on how bad the wheels are? How baked on is it? My advice give them a good thorough wash and degrease with strong dilution of shampoo and all purpose cleaner. Next I'd suggest going to halfords and getting a bottle of wonder wheels hot wheels, purple liquid that has a small amount of fallout remover like iron x and iron out, hopefully this will work.

If not try the original wonder wheels super wheel cleaner in the silver bottle with brush. This is acidic but provided you use it carefully and don't leave on too long or apply to damaged wheels a one of use is ok

Once they're nice and clean protect them with a proper wheel wax or sealant and then general shampoo should be all that is needed to keep them clean
 
Yellow Dave said:
Imperial is a general alkali based but neutralised pH wheel cleaner and no fallout remover. Iron out is the fallout remover.

It depends on how bad the wheels are? How baked on is it? My advice give them a good thorough wash and degrease with strong dilution of shampoo and all purpose cleaner. Next I'd suggest going to halfords and getting a bottle of wonder wheels hot wheels, purple liquid that has a small amount of fallout remover like iron x and iron out, hopefully this will work.

If not try the original wonder wheels super wheel cleaner in the silver bottle with brush. This is acidic but provided you use it carefully and don't leave on too long or apply to damaged wheels a one of use is ok

Once they're nice and clean protect them with a proper wheel wax or sealant and then general shampoo should be all that is needed to keep them clean
Click to expand...

I was recommending imperial to clean the dirt off the wheels before using iron X to shift the fallout.

I think I tested iron out and didn't find it too effective compared to iron X.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Matthew_
Matthews Inferno Orange 182
2
Replies
77
Views
15K
Matthew_
Matthew_
R
Resurrecting a Ph1 Clio 2 (non-RS) in South Africa
Replies
2
Views
3K
Razmann4k
R
$
Question for anyone with EDC gearbox issues and/or who have had TCU replacement
Replies
20
Views
19K
udho77
U
Howell
K20 CUP - Any info?
Replies
2
Views
2K
Howell
Howell
B
New owner with lots of questions
Replies
10
Views
3K
Billy Smalls
B
Back
Top