I think it speaks for itself. I have a thread to follow....
What pad did you use this with mate?I think it speaks for itself. I have a thread to follow....
What pad did you use this with mate?
Yeah I saw that mate and I have the same pads.I'm going to have a wild stab in the dark that it was a white CarPro one 😂
Yeah I saw that mate and I have the same pads.
The white CP pads are as soft as fook and ive only used mine for final polishing.
I would have thought he would have used the CP orange pad for correction but maybe the white pads wasn't a CP one?
Yeah it looks that way.But this essence has zero abrasion so surely there is no correction? I'm guessing this was done on a very soft finishing pad.
Thanks mate, I've used Essence with the CP orange pad, then with the white pad to finish off.Hellllllllo! You wouldnt use a harsh pad as that's not what the product is for. Needs to melt in to the paint.
So it's almost all fillers.... But it's also the sealant... So you're literally sealing the fillers in. We're talking maybe 6 months plus and because youre not correcting or heating the lsp up like normal essence the speed of application is mental. Stuff has blown me away today.
There will be light correction even on a normal pad. I tried it with a 3m blue pad and rotary. Worked well.
The picture was carpro gloss pad and bigfoot da. I would recommend via Da.
Any QD will suffice, or mix up a strong dilution of a generic shampoo and water. As long as it feels well lubricated there's not really much to themWhat clay/clay lube is everyone using nowadays? About to order some for first time claying. Thanks!
Any clar bar better than others?Any QD will suffice, or mix up a strong dilution of a generic shampoo and water. As long as it feels well lubricated there's not really much to them
Any clar bar better than others?
Any clar bar better than others?
No topper. The product is the sealant.Think I'll add Essence Plus to my next order, so do you not really need to top it with anything as you say it's kind of a filler/sealant.
You'll find most clay bars are the same.
Bikt Hanber is good, but as said, it's very tough, especially in the cold.
A bowl of hot water helps to keep it malleable.
I'm using Buffin Stuff clay now. Switched to I'm in the summer and haven't looked back.
I use Megs D114 for lube.
Brushes - Talk to me.
I have my Wheel Woolies and AF Hog Hair brushes but my cheaper selection are all falling to bits.
Don't want to spend a fortune but need a few for Wheel faces, working around badges etc.
A little advice needed - a few nights ago I gave my car a quick wash, snow foamed, shampoo'd and then I sprayed the (wet) car with Hydro2lite all over and rinsed. When I rinsed the Hydro2lite off it left it looking like it had a layer of condensation effect. It was pretty cold and probably had moisture in the air, it had gone dark already (~5pm) as you can see in the pictures. I'm thinking that it's something to do with the fact I sprayed the whole car with Hydro2lite, then rinsed it off, so it was potentially left for anything upto 2-3 mins and it does say to rinse immediately (stupid of me!). After the Hydro was rinsed I shampoo'd the whole car again as I was worried but it didn't have any effect, was still leaving a dull 'condensation' looking effect.
In picture 5 of the front end, I didn't spray the front bumper at all with Hydro so you can see just below the front grille, the paintwork looks pretty normal with no condensation effect.
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The best method is one panel a a time mate and literally spray on and jet off straight away.
And you don't need to cover every inch of the panel. A little dab will do. When you jet it off it spreads it around. Then open hose the panel to get any excess off.
You're most likely going to need to machine polish your car to get rid of that.