Looks nice.
Regarding the high idle/rev sticking problem, has the idle screw in the throttle body been adjusted at all? I say this because when cams were fitted to mine this had to be 'turned up' to stop it stalling on tickover etc.
Funnily enough mate read below:
Update time,
Had about 2 hours on Duf today, I took the ICV of fand gave it a good clean with carb cleaner, followed by some WD40, I cleaned every electrical plug I could find with electrical cleaner, I re-earthed the dash again (Made a better job of it) and took the air filter off and cleaned the throttle body (Well I say clean, it was spotless to begin with).
I put it all back together, jump started it as the battery was flat (Not used it all week and I think the battey needs a charge so il chuck it on the battery charger at work tomorrow) and took it for a tentitve first drive.
Bottom line is, it was better than before, but still not fixed.
Was pretty gutted to be honest, I was hoping it would fix it, but I thought of one thing I didn't try - looking at the idle screw on the throttle body.
So I had a look, and the white cap was down the side of the screw, which was a big relief - it's not great it had been fiddled with, but at least I knew it wasn't as it was supposed to be.
So while it was running, I screwed it in - I was screwed out LOADS! As I kept turning, the idle got lower (As expected) and I took it to about 1000 rpm - I went for another drive and it was so much better - revs dropping much faster, and every time I stopped the idle dropped to circa 1000rpm.
Now it's not perfect - the revs still go up slightly when I dip the clutch, and the revs don't drop to idle as quick as id like, but it is not correctly mapped so that may be something to do with it and it is now 95% better and much much more enjoyable to drive