I think if you're going to keep it completely non-PAS then the DCi or 1.2 rack is ideal as I think they are more turns lock-to-lock so you won't need massive arms to turn, but I'd prefer to keep the quick cup steering as shifting hands around on the wheel on track drives me nuts
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Well to anyone still wondering. The twingo rack doesn't fit, not even close.
And the 172 rack only really comes out if you chop all the pas pipes.
Kinda left with a car on axel stands now with no steering.
Pretty pissed off
And the 172 rack only really comes out if you chop all the pas pipes.
Kinda left with a car on axel stands now with no steering.
Pretty pissed off
Phil you have removed the metal rack mounts that go to the subframe from the std rack haven't you? The twingo rack should bolt straight to the subframe. Where doesn't it fit?
It does bolt straight to the subframe but the pinion comes through virtually touching the top of the metal hole in the bulkhead
I'd have to grind an inch or two out the top of it for clearance
Also the steering column is about 3-4" too long to connect to the pinion and despite it looking telescopic I can't shorten it at all
I'd have to grind an inch or two out the top of it for clearance
Also the steering column is about 3-4" too long to connect to the pinion and despite it looking telescopic I can't shorten it at all
Dohhh
Indeed... Can't even put it back in the garage as I now have no steering at all. *sigh*
Just wanted the ability to vary the amount of assistance on the steering
Seemed like a good idea but 7hrs later, lots of swearing and bleeding its been a complete waste of time and money
No idea what to do now
Seemed like a good idea but 7hrs later, lots of swearing and bleeding its been a complete waste of time and money
No idea what to do now
Have you got a brake flaring tool? If so use the standard rack loop both sections of pipe and then use a Renault sump plug to block one of the inlets and I think I used an m18 lambda sensor bung from a Vauxhall on the other. If you don't have a flaring tool then I think you could just use some m12x1 short bolts just to stop dirt getting into the rack
Yeah I've got a flaring tool and a roll of brake pipe - is that the stuff you use?
I don't know whether to just buy a cheap DCi rack and whack it on so that it's back on it's wheels
The alternator belt that you recommended worked perfectly so at least that's done LOL
I don't know whether to just buy a cheap DCi rack and whack it on so that it's back on it's wheels
The alternator belt that you recommended worked perfectly so at least that's done LOL
That's sh1t mate gutted for you, it looked as though it would line up fine on mine but because my sub frame was going off for shot blasting, seam welding and powder coating I didn't bother bolting everything together. Might modify my bulk head and use it anyway, regarding the telescopic column you need to hammer it in a bit.
The problem is that it doesn't push up against the bulkhead so the rubber doesn't seal the gap
You can't use the rubber gaiter on the bottom of the steering column either because the pinion doesn't sit in the middle of the hole in the bulkhead
I'm also not sure you can just make the hole bigger because the section above seems to be double skinned
It looks a mile out to me. You'd have to make the hole much bigger in the bulkhead and then no idea how to seal it - you'd probably have to make a blanking plate or you'd have road crap coming up at your feet.
I have to say I'm a bit gutted by the way Fred worded it - as it sounded as if it was something he'd tried and tested
You can't use the rubber gaiter on the bottom of the steering column either because the pinion doesn't sit in the middle of the hole in the bulkhead
I'm also not sure you can just make the hole bigger because the section above seems to be double skinned
It looks a mile out to me. You'd have to make the hole much bigger in the bulkhead and then no idea how to seal it - you'd probably have to make a blanking plate or you'd have road crap coming up at your feet.
I have to say I'm a bit gutted by the way Fred worded it - as it sounded as if it was something he'd tried and tested
182cup & 172 racecar
Have you got a brake flaring tool? If so use the standard rack loop both sections of pipe and then use a Renault sump plug to block one of the inlets and I think I used an m18 lambda sensor bung from a Vauxhall on the other. If you don't have a flaring tool then I think you could just use some m12x1 short bolts just to stop dirt getting into the rack
I think Ian Collins just has two bits of pipe sticking up in the air, not even looped together. Left the ends open.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Have you got a brake flaring tool? If so use the standard rack loop both sections of pipe and then use a Renault sump plug to block one of the inlets and I think I used an m18 lambda sensor bung from a Vauxhall on the other. If you don't have a flaring tool then I think you could just use some m12x1 short bolts just to stop dirt getting into the rack
This!!!! Exactly how I've done mine! (Thanking you mr ashton! ;-))
The problem is that it doesn't push up against the bulkhead so the rubber doesn't seal the gap
You can't use the rubber gaiter on the bottom of the steering column either because the pinion doesn't sit in the middle of the hole in the bulkhead
I'm also not sure you can just make the hole bigger because the section above seems to be double skinned
It looks a mile out to me. You'd have to make the hole much bigger in the bulkhead and then no idea how to seal it - you'd probably have to make a blanking plate or you'd have road crap coming up at your feet.
I have to say I'm a bit gutted by the way Fred worded it - as it sounded as if it was something he'd tried and tested
Is the pinion at a completely different angle or something? otherwise everything should work even if you have to chop and sleeve the steering column but I can't see it been needed given that its a collapsable column. Sealing it isn't a big problem, might not look pretty but who's looking!!
LOL
Really?
It's too long. To high. And the wrong angle
It's hard to tell from pic but its rubbing against the metal at the top
It's hard to tell from pic but its rubbing against the metal at the top
All your needing is some angled shims to bolt in between the rack and subframe by the looks of it. It might be too much work for yourself but looks more than possible if the pinion connection types and the rack mountings are the same which was my worry before.
Once you fit shims it will bring the pinion more central to the bulkhead hole and then you can use a piece of 3mm rubber with a hole for the pinion and then screw it to the bulkhead?!?
Once you fit shims it will bring the pinion more central to the bulkhead hole and then you can use a piece of 3mm rubber with a hole for the pinion and then screw it to the bulkhead?!?
Shims would work but there's not much room to manoeuvre
Just read that the 1.2 epas rack is the same turns lock to lock anyway due to it running epas
That rack will bolt straight on
Then ill just get column and ecu from same car. Jobs a good un
Wish I'd done that first
Just read that the 1.2 epas rack is the same turns lock to lock anyway due to it running epas
That rack will bolt straight on
Then ill just get column and ecu from same car. Jobs a good un
Wish I'd done that first
Yeah that is the easy solution or even just loop your current rack to keep the same lock to lock.
I really don't like the steering of the base spec cars and tbh I hated clio's for years due to the steering on the lower models (seating position too lol) until I drove a sport and it was more bareable, personally looping your rack would be what I would do.
Cheap twingo rack for sale? Did the track rods screw in anyway?
I really don't like the steering of the base spec cars and tbh I hated clio's for years due to the steering on the lower models (seating position too lol) until I drove a sport and it was more bareable, personally looping your rack would be what I would do.
Cheap twingo rack for sale? Did the track rods screw in anyway?
Yep twingo rack is yours if you want it. £45 delivered
Tie rods went straight on and it fits the existing sub frame holes
Column also bolts on fine
Just too much work for me to correct the angle etc..
Tie rods went straight on and it fits the existing sub frame holes
Column also bolts on fine
Just too much work for me to correct the angle etc..
182cup & 172 racecar
Just missed another 3 trackdays while you've been messing about with this.
Shims would work but there's not much room to manoeuvre
Just read that the 1.2 epas rack is the same turns lock to lock anyway due to it running epas
That rack will bolt straight on
Then ill just get column and ecu from same car. Jobs a good un
Wish I'd done that first
That's what I did on my corsa.
Just missed another 3 trackdays while you've been messing about with this.
Yes but I don't think they'd of been much fun with the amount of play in the inner and outer tie rods. And the rack bushes were shot too
Probably one of the reasons I always hated the vague steering
Certainly wouldn't have been on mine lol
Original tie rods - I put the rack in the vice and used a 1.2m long pipe wrench to free them.
F*ck doing that laid on my back under the car LOL
Right - I'm gonna order a DCi rack tomorrow or nip over to renparts in Doncaster for one which might be quicker
Fit that with some new tie rods and tre's - and some new ball joints
That should leave me with a heavy manual steering for now - but that's fine as I can whack an EPAS rack on in a few weeks
What's the best way to seal the hole I now have where the column goes through?
Would a 3mm bit of rubber with a hole cut in the middle work or is that likely to squeek and crack and split?
Do I need to make a metal plate with some sort of bush or something in the middle?
Original tie rods - I put the rack in the vice and used a 1.2m long pipe wrench to free them.
F*ck doing that laid on my back under the car LOL
Right - I'm gonna order a DCi rack tomorrow or nip over to renparts in Doncaster for one which might be quicker
Fit that with some new tie rods and tre's - and some new ball joints
That should leave me with a heavy manual steering for now - but that's fine as I can whack an EPAS rack on in a few weeks
What's the best way to seal the hole I now have where the column goes through?
Would a 3mm bit of rubber with a hole cut in the middle work or is that likely to squeek and crack and split?
Do I need to make a metal plate with some sort of bush or something in the middle?
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
You just use the original rubber boot that comes with an epas column?? Or am I missing something here?
Oh yeah I could just buy an entire column with the rubber on again lol DOH
I was thinking I was just buying the top part - but I think now I'm gonna have to remove the whole dash and fit the entire column/shaft/rubber etc..
Found an epas column (full) with rubber gaitor, and ecu for £50 in Doncaster
Renparts seems to have a load of 1.2/dci racks in stock for around £30 and they're near doncaster
So gonna go do a run out tomorrow morning and try to get all the bits in one go
I was thinking I was just buying the top part - but I think now I'm gonna have to remove the whole dash and fit the entire column/shaft/rubber etc..
Found an epas column (full) with rubber gaitor, and ecu for £50 in Doncaster
Renparts seems to have a load of 1.2/dci racks in stock for around £30 and they're near doncaster
So gonna go do a run out tomorrow morning and try to get all the bits in one go
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Make sure you definitely buy a complete column and lower shaft mate!! You can't split the original non epas column lower shaft. I made this mistake but luckily for me I found a lower shaft on eBay for £10!
Epas column splits in 2 btw, so you put the lower half in first, then the top half. That's how I did mine.
Epas column splits in 2 btw, so you put the lower half in first, then the top half. That's how I did mine.
Ahhhhhhhh thanks mate
I assumed the lower part of the shaft would split from the upper - so was just going to buy an upper section
So you undo the bolts on the top part of the column and then pull the entire column/shaft/gaitor the lot up through the dash?
I assumed the lower part of the shaft would split from the upper - so was just going to buy an upper section
So you undo the bolts on the top part of the column and then pull the entire column/shaft/gaitor the lot up through the dash?
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Yes mate. It really is that simple! I did it all with the dash in place, with just the top half removed to put the wiring in.
Legend
I'm gonna nip out now and remove the existing column then.
Hopefully I can have a few hours on it at nights this week and get it back together
I'm gonna nip out now and remove the existing column then.
Hopefully I can have a few hours on it at nights this week and get it back together
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
No worries mate.
Spot on!!!
5 minutes, 5 bolts - and it's out haha
Nice to have a minor win with the car after yesterday
Got a big pile of bits in the garage now lol
Not sure i'm gonna be any quicker on track though lol
Also does anyone know what the white wire on a ph1 light/horn stalk does?
Mine appears to have snapped but I hadn't noticed anything not working so wondering if it's front fogs or something I haven't got
5 minutes, 5 bolts - and it's out haha
Nice to have a minor win with the car after yesterday
Got a big pile of bits in the garage now lol
Not sure i'm gonna be any quicker on track though lol
Also does anyone know what the white wire on a ph1 light/horn stalk does?
Mine appears to have snapped but I hadn't noticed anything not working so wondering if it's front fogs or something I haven't got
Oh and just to confirm so I don't get the wrong bits again...
Everything I need right?
Everything I need right?
How many turns is the DCi rack you're after now?
I have absolutely no idea LOL so many conflicting threads on here
But I'm gonna go try it at renparts - at least I can get a few racks out and try turning them all
I read a thread on here from 2009 where a guy insisted that the 1.2/dci racks that use EPAS as standard are still only 3 turns lock-to-lock, it's the manual non-PAS racks that are longer - I personallydoubt this - I'm sure the cup rack will be quicker just purely due to it being a sportier model.
BUT the Clio rack won't go back on without re-dropping the subframe which is a nightmare, the basic racks like the twingo/dci ones just slide in from the side as they are much smaller/lighter - and I read a lot of people using DCi racks on their track cars a few years back including markcup etc... (http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?358181-Clio-dci-steering-rack-for-Cup-what-year-make) so it must be ok on track..
Markcup even ran his without any assistance at all (manly arms)
So I figure i'll give it a go
But I'm gonna go try it at renparts - at least I can get a few racks out and try turning them all
I read a thread on here from 2009 where a guy insisted that the 1.2/dci racks that use EPAS as standard are still only 3 turns lock-to-lock, it's the manual non-PAS racks that are longer - I personallydoubt this - I'm sure the cup rack will be quicker just purely due to it being a sportier model.
BUT the Clio rack won't go back on without re-dropping the subframe which is a nightmare, the basic racks like the twingo/dci ones just slide in from the side as they are much smaller/lighter - and I read a lot of people using DCi racks on their track cars a few years back including markcup etc... (http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?358181-Clio-dci-steering-rack-for-Cup-what-year-make) so it must be ok on track..
Markcup even ran his without any assistance at all (manly arms)
So I figure i'll give it a go
