Cub.
ClioSport Moderator
Love this project. Great work! 👍
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Kangoo Compact (aka Racevan3)
- Thread starter Brigsy
- Start date
VenomUK
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
@Brigsy I'm so glad you have done that with the seats. Could I possibly slide into you DM's as was going to go down the stocks 197 seats to replace mine in my Roo but after seeing the recaros fitted they look amazing. I was going to make some lower shims as the seat is fine but a little high in stock form but it looks like you've nailed the position there in the pictures! My worry is I have the bulkhead in and prefer that over the hoop bar so I hope that my seating position doesn't mean the seat is rubbing against the bulkhead but I can cross that bridge when I get to it.
VenomUK
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
Just on the hunt for some seats now, what sort of price did you pay? Agree, I have it in a nice position at the moment but it is right up against the bulkhead. I will follow you guide on here and if I get stuck I'll come a-calling
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
I got my seats for a bargain £400, a good pair seem to be anywhere between £600-800 if you want a mint set. This set needed a clean with a wet vac and had to paint the inserts up. Dead easy to fit though, pm me if you need any advice
VenomUK
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
Bloody hell, to think I almost pulled the trigger on a pair for £600 the other day with worn bolsters, your set look mint mind!! I need to shop aboutI got my seats for a bargain £400, a good pair seem to be anywhere between £600-800 if you want a mint set. This set needed a clean with a wet vac and had to paint the inserts up. Dead easy to fit though, pm me if you need any advice
Thank you, I appreciate that.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Picked up a new set of wheels last weekend. Ive been sniffing around for a while for nice wheels and anything nice in 5x108 is like rocking horse poo to find.
Story goes like this. Back in the day around 5 years ago i went to a TurboRenault rolling road day at RsTuning in Leeds and seen a nice ultra blue r26 with a set of white compomotive mo6 on. Thought it looked pretty epic and took a pic and that was the last i seen of it.
Fast forward to a couple of weeks ago - im browsing facebook and i see the same r26 again on the meganesport facebook page so i fire the current owner a cheeky pm asking if he wants to sell the wheels. Reply was not currently selling but will let me know if he ever decides to sell as they are road/wet track wheels.
A week or so later i get a pm asking if i want to buy them as the gearbox has blown up and hes breaking the car! Was tempted to buy the full car but we already have the ph1 225 sat there in the garage.
Got a few pics through via pm, set of 6 wheels, 4 have new goodyears on. Bit of heritage with the wheels, apparantly custom made years ago in r26r offset with correct hub centre bore and possibly used when testing the r26r around the Nurburgring? One wheel has 2x valves in for mega accurate tyre pressure checking.
Agreed a price and the deal was done. As per usual miles away from me and i dont have a vehicle large enough to pick 6x 18” wheels and tyres, so borrow my neighbours Combo van thats not been furthur than the local builders merchant for years / never been serviced to pick them up in, what could possibly go wrong? Luckily nothing and it done the 600 mile round trip without any dramas at all and even got a shoutout off MistaJam on capital on the evening.
Give them a clean up, in pretty good nick considering been used for track. 4x matching rims et66 and 2x slightly different offset et54. Wheel with 2x valves 2nd from left.
Test fitted. Needs a major altitude adjustment (looks like a fecking micro machine at the moment ) still no engine or box in so will see how it settles. If it needs more lowering ill buy a pair of meg coilovers for the front and sort the back with a custom setup if needs be.
Pretty happy though as heading in the right direction.
Tried them on the mrs 225 and they look epic.
So 3x sets of good wheels in 5x108 to share between the pair.
Engine in soon fingers crossed! Thanks for reading.
Story goes like this. Back in the day around 5 years ago i went to a TurboRenault rolling road day at RsTuning in Leeds and seen a nice ultra blue r26 with a set of white compomotive mo6 on. Thought it looked pretty epic and took a pic and that was the last i seen of it.
Fast forward to a couple of weeks ago - im browsing facebook and i see the same r26 again on the meganesport facebook page so i fire the current owner a cheeky pm asking if he wants to sell the wheels. Reply was not currently selling but will let me know if he ever decides to sell as they are road/wet track wheels.
A week or so later i get a pm asking if i want to buy them as the gearbox has blown up and hes breaking the car! Was tempted to buy the full car but we already have the ph1 225 sat there in the garage.
Got a few pics through via pm, set of 6 wheels, 4 have new goodyears on. Bit of heritage with the wheels, apparantly custom made years ago in r26r offset with correct hub centre bore and possibly used when testing the r26r around the Nurburgring? One wheel has 2x valves in for mega accurate tyre pressure checking.
Agreed a price and the deal was done. As per usual miles away from me and i dont have a vehicle large enough to pick 6x 18” wheels and tyres, so borrow my neighbours Combo van thats not been furthur than the local builders merchant for years / never been serviced to pick them up in, what could possibly go wrong?
Luckily nothing and it done the 600 mile round trip without any dramas at all and even got a shoutout off MistaJam on capital on the evening.Give them a clean up, in pretty good nick considering been used for track. 4x matching rims et66 and 2x slightly different offset et54. Wheel with 2x valves 2nd from left.
Test fitted. Needs a major altitude adjustment (looks like a fecking micro machine at the moment
) still no engine or box in so will see how it settles. If it needs more lowering ill buy a pair of meg coilovers for the front and sort the back with a custom setup if needs be.Pretty happy though as heading in the right direction.
Tried them on the mrs 225 and they look epic.
So 3x sets of good wheels in 5x108 to share between the pair.
Engine in soon fingers crossed! Thanks for reading.
Last edited:
P-Co
ClioSport Club Member
Hyundai Santa Fe
The van doesn't look as small on that picture, looks like when you take a wierd wide angle shot and it distorts.
Strange that the two valves aren't opposite each other, must be some method behind the madness [emoji23]
They do look good on the van though.
Strange that the two valves aren't opposite each other, must be some method behind the madness [emoji23]
They do look good on the van though.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
The two valves are mad, i thought it had been a f**k up when making the wheels initially, googled it to check it out and seems to be a rally thing.
Another pic from the side Ive come to the conclusion with a good bit of power itll be for go and not for show
Seen quite a few modded Kangoo2 on instagram when having a sniff round. Most are stanced shite and on air or ridiculously static low.
Seen this though and looks great, i dont think i want to go as low purely for handling purposes, but will see. Facelift looks good too
Another pic from the side Ive come to the conclusion with a good bit of power itll be for go and not for show
Seen quite a few modded Kangoo2 on instagram when having a sniff round. Most are stanced shite and on air or ridiculously static low.
Seen this though and looks great, i dont think i want to go as low purely for handling purposes, but will see. Facelift looks good too
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Small job done tonight after gym. The meg 250 inlet has a breather solenoid fitted which i dont have and is about a ton new. I wont be needing it as basically emissions crap as far as i can tell and i will be running a catch tank setup from the breather plate.
Anyway tried sniffing out a 2nd hand valve to blank the hole but no joy, was considering sending it to the local fabricators to get it gone permanently but have not had time to drop it off.
Browsing ebay and seen some bmw swirl flap alloy bungs with o ring, same diameter as the hole. Bought one for pennies and it fitted the hole but was a tiny bit slack, so fitted a small o ring under the original to nip it up, which has made it a really tight fit. Had to chop it about a little to get it on but looks alright.
Tempted to send it, what does everybody reckon?
Anyway tried sniffing out a 2nd hand valve to blank the hole but no joy, was considering sending it to the local fabricators to get it gone permanently but have not had time to drop it off.
Browsing ebay and seen some bmw swirl flap alloy bungs with o ring, same diameter as the hole. Bought one for pennies and it fitted the hole but was a tiny bit slack, so fitted a small o ring under the original to nip it up, which has made it a really tight fit. Had to chop it about a little to get it on but looks alright.
Tempted to send it, what does everybody reckon?
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Done a few more bits to the engine yesterday.
Started off with setting cam timing and torquing the pulleys/tensioners up. Tippex method
Cambelt cover on, aux pulley torqued, top cover mocked up as still need the spacers for the studs. Inlet mocked up, need to drill and tap the end for the extra bolt.
Fitted 250 dmf and clutch and rebuilt pk cup gearbox with lsd
Starter motor and 19t dropped in place. Turbo needs a rebuild, have made enquiries about that so that's away this week hopefully.
Megane engine mount should go straight in, same on gearbox side.
Getting closer to dropping it in the engine bay to see whats what, i reckon it should be in very soon
Started off with setting cam timing and torquing the pulleys/tensioners up. Tippex method
Cambelt cover on, aux pulley torqued, top cover mocked up as still need the spacers for the studs. Inlet mocked up, need to drill and tap the end for the extra bolt.
Fitted 250 dmf and clutch and rebuilt pk cup gearbox with lsd
Starter motor and 19t dropped in place. Turbo needs a rebuild, have made enquiries about that so that's away this week hopefully.
Megane engine mount should go straight in, same on gearbox side.
Getting closer to dropping it in the engine bay to see whats what, i reckon it should be in very soon
Martin_172
ClioSport Club Member
Facelift looks good too
you NEED to get a facelift front end on it!!!!!! a micro facelift would be cool as
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates from last week, a few more bits done
Home made 20mm throttle body adaptor to fit 225 throttle on 250 inlet. Bit pikey but should work ok
Drilled and tapped throttle body to get rid of the crap push fit pipe
Sealed with loctite on the threads and copper washer
Give it a quick tart up, gasket cut and fitted
Inlet fitted, breather plate sealed and fitted, new plugs in, m6 thread bar to make studs for coil packs instead of bolts.
Next job was to pull diesel engine bay loom out, looks a bit better without the rats nest
Dci engine loom top, r26 bottom
R26 loom should bolt into underbonnet fusebox easy enough, both kangoo and r26 upc look very similar, kangoo one below. A few less fuses than meg but not worried about that as i will add my own wiring for fuel pumps.
Tried the r26 s3000 ecu and the plug that joins the dbw throttle plugs straight in. I have compared wiring for both on Visu and the Kangoo pins are identical, my kangoo might not have cruise wiring thats the only difference.
In theory, immob virginilize on r26 ecu and it might sync up to the kangoo setup fingers crossed. Its all very meglio like to do.
Turbo is on its way, so trial fit very soon.
Thanks for reading!
Home made 20mm throttle body adaptor to fit 225 throttle on 250 inlet. Bit pikey but should work ok
Drilled and tapped throttle body to get rid of the crap push fit pipe
Sealed with loctite on the threads and copper washer
Give it a quick tart up, gasket cut and fitted
Inlet fitted, breather plate sealed and fitted, new plugs in, m6 thread bar to make studs for coil packs instead of bolts.
Next job was to pull diesel engine bay loom out, looks a bit better without the rats nest
Dci engine loom top, r26 bottom
R26 loom should bolt into underbonnet fusebox easy enough, both kangoo and r26 upc look very similar, kangoo one below. A few less fuses than meg but not worried about that as i will add my own wiring for fuel pumps.
Tried the r26 s3000 ecu and the plug that joins the dbw throttle plugs straight in. I have compared wiring for both on Visu and the Kangoo pins are identical, my kangoo might not have cruise wiring thats the only difference.
In theory, immob virginilize on r26 ecu and it might sync up to the kangoo setup fingers crossed. Its all very meglio like to do.
Turbo is on its way, so trial fit very soon.
Thanks for reading!
Martin_172
ClioSport Club Member
so excited to see this coming together! great work. I'm no photoshop pro but it needs to be done....
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
@Martin_172 epic, that looks perfect I think i need to start looking for some megane bc coilovers asap
Done a little bit more today. Engine dynamics stg 2 turbo purchased this week (think its based on 20t) supposed to be good for 360hp.
Fitted. Lifting eyes on, engine crane collected.
Lockdown? Its engine fitting time.
I think i need to start looking for some megane bc coilovers asapDone a little bit more today. Engine dynamics stg 2 turbo purchased this week (think its based on 20t) supposed to be good for 360hp.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Weekend progress
Foggy on Sat which was not motivating me to do any outside work. So dtuck all the ancillaries back on the engine, mocked up wiring (ignore the incorrectly plugged in wiring as couldnt be arsed popping the bonnet on the 225 to find out what goes where )
Filled it up with oil and primed the oil circuit up, cranked engine over for a few seconds on the starter to prime it up and check prv was not stuck on the pump, all good.
Planned on fitting engine Sunday but was pissing down all morning. Eventually stopped so turned it round and stuck it nose first in the garage, front end off.
Engine and box on the crane, rolled it over to the kangoo and it just fell into place, straight in on the meg engine mounts. Thats one milestone achieved i guess !
Plenty of room for 3" decat. The whole setup fits a lot better than expected, proves that its megane or clio 197 based engine bay.
Sits a lot better with engine and box in, rear rideheight still offensive though so got that to sort.
F4r looks right at home.
Coming together steady away.
Thanks for reading!
Foggy on Sat which was not motivating me to do any outside work. So dtuck all the ancillaries back on the engine, mocked up wiring (ignore the incorrectly plugged in wiring as couldnt be arsed popping the bonnet on the 225 to find out what goes where
)Filled it up with oil and primed the oil circuit up, cranked engine over for a few seconds on the starter to prime it up and check prv was not stuck on the pump, all good.
Planned on fitting engine Sunday but was pissing down all morning. Eventually stopped so turned it round and stuck it nose first in the garage, front end off.
Engine and box on the crane, rolled it over to the kangoo and it just fell into place, straight in on the meg engine mounts. Thats one milestone achieved i guess !
Plenty of room for 3" decat. The whole setup fits a lot better than expected, proves that its megane or clio 197 based engine bay.
Sits a lot better with engine and box in, rear rideheight still offensive though so got that to sort.
F4r looks right at home.
Coming together steady away.
Thanks for reading!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Done a bit more at the weekend. Mostly mocking up what will fit and finding out what needs modification.
Tried a few combinations of gear cables that i have in stock, no joy as all around 75-100mm too short. Custom length bowden push pull cables are not too expensive so should be easy to sort. Kangoo clutch pipe fitted but knacker tight and the damper looked quite rotten, so ordered a 250 damper delete braided hose to get round that.
Cables everywhere.
Offered up megane rad and boost hoses, fits great just needs some brackets making up, tons of room for a large intercooler.
For mock up purposes i had used the meg 175dci gearbox mount that bolts to the gearbox combined with the original Kangoo dci alloy cradle on the inner wing. Everything bolted up ok but from some angles the engine looked a little bit on the piss.
The main issues were gearbox close to the subframe, and inner cv close to subframe, and dogbone was a little tiny bit off. It would have worked as is, and nothing hit when rocking engine with no dogbone mount on but was keen to get it fitted better.
Anyway done some digging and the 175 dci cradle that bolts to the inner wing was slightly higher than the kangoo one and more biased towards the front of the car. Ordered one from Latvia and turned up fast, its shared with some grand espace diesel, not that common.
Kangoo one in this pic
Megane 175 dci in pic below
Has sorted all the issues out. Its raised the box up by around 15mm giving more clearance to cv, and pulled box forward by 25mm or so. Ample clearance all round and engine is sat better.
Offered up the dci 175 driveshafts and they look like they will go no issues. Had to order a pk intermediate bearing carrier to suit as ndo one wont fit.
Ran out of jobs to do so done a bit of wiring. Its all plugged in, i reckon with immobiliser sorted and a fuel pump & pipe fitted, this will be up and running.
More updates to come when parts arrive this week thanks for reading!
Tried a few combinations of gear cables that i have in stock, no joy as all around 75-100mm too short. Custom length bowden push pull cables are not too expensive so should be easy to sort. Kangoo clutch pipe fitted but knacker tight and the damper looked quite rotten, so ordered a 250 damper delete braided hose to get round that.
Cables everywhere.
Offered up megane rad and boost hoses, fits great just needs some brackets making up, tons of room for a large intercooler.
For mock up purposes i had used the meg 175dci gearbox mount that bolts to the gearbox combined with the original Kangoo dci alloy cradle on the inner wing. Everything bolted up ok but from some angles the engine looked a little bit on the piss.
The main issues were gearbox close to the subframe, and inner cv close to subframe, and dogbone was a little tiny bit off. It would have worked as is, and nothing hit when rocking engine with no dogbone mount on but was keen to get it fitted better.
Anyway done some digging and the 175 dci cradle that bolts to the inner wing was slightly higher than the kangoo one and more biased towards the front of the car. Ordered one from Latvia and turned up fast, its shared with some grand espace diesel, not that common.
Kangoo one in this pic
Megane 175 dci in pic below
Has sorted all the issues out. Its raised the box up by around 15mm giving more clearance to cv, and pulled box forward by 25mm or so. Ample clearance all round and engine is sat better.
Offered up the dci 175 driveshafts and they look like they will go no issues. Had to order a pk intermediate bearing carrier to suit as ndo one wont fit.
Ran out of jobs to do so done a bit of wiring. Its all plugged in, i reckon with immobiliser sorted and a fuel pump & pipe fitted, this will be up and running.
More updates to come when parts arrive this week
thanks for reading!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
A few more jobs done
Kangoo clutch pipe was knacker tight so ordered a hel 250 dampener delete pipe. Had to modify the kangoo bulkhead joiner to fit the 250 pipe. Filled reservior up and stuck a pipe/syringe on the bleed point on clutch slave, pulled a vac and it bled up straight away, so hydraulic clutch is sorted.
Rebuilt dci 175 shafts with better condition outer cvs (messy horrible job)
Test fitted using the 250 PK intermediate bearing hanger and seem to fit ok, not much plunge on the passenger shaft only 8mm or so, should be able to move the engine over a few mm to drivers side if needs be so not too worried. So thats the drivetrain almost complete.
Looked at the brakes next. It had an issue with the pedal being stiff/sticking down when i first got it. As not used it not looked at it until today. Check out the rust on the clevis pin that joins the bar setup to the servo/master! Looks like its been in the sea, no leaks inside dry as a bone
Tried to remove the pin and its solid. I lubed it up and it seems to have freed off, but ill revisit this soon and strip it down proper when i bleed the brakes.
My eeprom reader has turned up so had a crack at fitting the ecu and powering it up to test wiring. Cracked ignition on and the results are promising, all warning lights working as oem, oil leve correct pops up
Stuck clip on and the first screen pulls the megane vin number up as clocks and ecu are matched seems to override the Kangoo uch which cant be entered as the vin is not matched.
Can access s3000 ecu ok, live parameters see coolant temp etc, but as ecu is immobilised cant clear any faults. Throttle body is powered up and moves when throttle is pressed. Promising stuff
After that small win i pulled out the eeprom reader and read the 95160 data, virgined the file and wrote it back to the ecu. Plugged in the ecu and scanned with clip to see if successful, Kangoo vin came up, ecu was powered up again but not available on clip. It seems like the vin needs inputting, but will prob need to do it with an open source diagnostic like pyren or ddt4all.
Ive done tons of research on the s3000 this week and i really need to get it more complete/near ready to fire so i can check more stuff before i really attack this.
Theres a few options but if all else fails ill bang a julie immob emulator on and its got no option to start.
Thanks for reading!
Kangoo clutch pipe was knacker tight so ordered a hel 250 dampener delete pipe. Had to modify the kangoo bulkhead joiner to fit the 250 pipe. Filled reservior up and stuck a pipe/syringe on the bleed point on clutch slave, pulled a vac and it bled up straight away, so hydraulic clutch is sorted.
Rebuilt dci 175 shafts with better condition outer cvs (messy horrible job)
Test fitted using the 250 PK intermediate bearing hanger and seem to fit ok, not much plunge on the passenger shaft only 8mm or so, should be able to move the engine over a few mm to drivers side if needs be so not too worried. So thats the drivetrain almost complete.
Looked at the brakes next. It had an issue with the pedal being stiff/sticking down when i first got it. As not used it not looked at it until today. Check out the rust on the clevis pin that joins the bar setup to the servo/master! Looks like its been in the sea, no leaks inside dry as a bone
Tried to remove the pin and its solid. I lubed it up and it seems to have freed off, but ill revisit this soon and strip it down proper when i bleed the brakes.
My eeprom reader has turned up so had a crack at fitting the ecu and powering it up to test wiring. Cracked ignition on and the results are promising, all warning lights working as oem, oil leve correct pops up
Stuck clip on and the first screen pulls the megane vin number up
as clocks and ecu are matched seems to override the Kangoo uch which cant be entered as the vin is not matched.Can access s3000 ecu ok, live parameters see coolant temp etc, but as ecu is immobilised cant clear any faults. Throttle body is powered up and moves when throttle is pressed. Promising stuff
After that small win i pulled out the eeprom reader and read the 95160 data, virgined the file and wrote it back to the ecu. Plugged in the ecu and scanned with clip to see if successful, Kangoo vin came up, ecu was powered up again but not available on clip. It seems like the vin needs inputting, but will prob need to do it with an open source diagnostic like pyren or ddt4all.
Ive done tons of research on the s3000 this week and i really need to get it more complete/near ready to fire so i can check more stuff before i really attack this.
Theres a few options but if all else fails ill bang a julie immob emulator on and its got no option to start.
Thanks for reading!
frayz
ClioSport Club Member
You probably know by now, but for those that don't. The twin valves was/is a motorsport idea to allow the tyres to be filled with Nitrogen from one valve and the normal air can be purged from the other. Also seen some teams set a pressure gauge on one valve whilst filling from the other. But i believe the purging was the main idea. Enkei wheels i believe introduced the idea.
Great project
Great project
VenomUK
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
@Brigsy The brake sticking is common on there I believe. I left mine standing for a good 3 months and the pedal was sticking... as you may have seen, the French didn't fancy a whole redesign and just added a tube section from the passenger side to the drivers side to operate the servo. I found WD40 didn't cut it but if I took it for a spin then got it warmed up and moving. once I got home I greased it up well and has been a dream ever since even after leaving the van for a few weeks whereas before if I left it for more than 2 days it would stick back up again.
I suspect the issue is where the hole in the bulkhead on the passenger side. I think you've had the scuttle off as rubbish builds up here and needs cleaning out and then water doesn't drain away and then enters into the passenger footwell. I went out one morning and had a lake in the passenger footwell and then after that and laying it up I come to the conclusion that that is how it ends up looking like its been in the sea.
I suspect the issue is where the hole in the bulkhead on the passenger side. I think you've had the scuttle off as rubbish builds up here and needs cleaning out and then water doesn't drain away and then enters into the passenger footwell. I went out one morning and had a lake in the passenger footwell and then after that and laying it up I come to the conclusion that that is how it ends up looking like its been in the sea.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Cheers all. Getting there slowly
First time id seen 2x valves @frayz didnt realise it was for nitrogen, good info. I initially thought the wheel had been cocked up!
Good info @VenomUK Ive freed it off and well greased now. Possibly scuttle was blocked when previous owner had it. Will bleed brakes this weekend and see how it goes.
Been reading up about the Renault immob system this week and what can be done to get round it all. Have tried writing the immob data off the diesel ecu with no joy. Ive virgined the meg ecu immobiliser again, no vin on engine ecu on clip so cant see it. I can scan all ecus with ddt4all and read ok as its not fussy but its mostly in french so that might cause issues
Not attempted to crank the engine over yet as no earth strap on the engine, and no immob light wired up on clocks. Need to get a fuel pump boshed in to see if that will prime.
First time id seen 2x valves @frayz didnt realise it was for nitrogen, good info. I initially thought the wheel had been cocked up!
Good info @VenomUK Ive freed it off and well greased now. Possibly scuttle was blocked when previous owner had it. Will bleed brakes this weekend and see how it goes.
Been reading up about the Renault immob system this week and what can be done to get round it all. Have tried writing the immob data off the diesel ecu with no joy. Ive virgined the meg ecu immobiliser again, no vin on engine ecu on clip so cant see it. I can scan all ecus with ddt4all and read ok as its not fussy but its mostly in french so that might cause issues
Not attempted to crank the engine over yet as no earth strap on the engine, and no immob light wired up on clocks. Need to get a fuel pump boshed in to see if that will prime.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Some more jobs done to the Kangoo Compact.
Ive lost a few hours this week trying to sync the r26 ecu to the kangoo uch, initially without success and ecm immobiliser was active, resulting in short cranking and not able to delete dtc's from the ecu as immobiliser active.
Information on programming the immobiliser system is pretty scarce, and apart from meglio conversions which is basically swapping the immobiliser data over from clio eeprom to the megane ecu, there is no info on ecu swaps on the Renault can system.
I dont have the reprogramming cd's for clip and feared it might go tits up trying to mate a different ecu. Can clip was not showing the s3000 properly on the multiplex, had to look into other options to suit my needs.
Found a few open source diagnostic software packages using an obdSX cable to connect.
Options available
Ddt2000, Ddt4all, Pyren & Ren0link.
I downloaded all of them and give them all a test run on diagnostics (on my blue clio as cheapest to fix ).
All similar yet different options as all use the ddt2000 ecu database.
Went with Ren0link, as its a little easier to use and bought the latest copy with a licence. For the people who have not heard of Ren0link, its a great alternative to clip. Its a 3rd party software and powerful, press the wrong button and your in the s**t basically, there is hardly any info or instructions for anything apart from key programming. Press a button and theres no warning, or do you really want to do this, it just fires the command, and if not careful you have wiped or bricked one of the modules and its a trip to Renault resulting in £££.
I went with this as it has a tool to find the isk and pin in the uch to program keys, and other easy to use tools, i.e. virgin uch and ecu on obd, vin change to attempt to marry my 197 cluster and sagem s3000 up to the Kangoo uch.
Tried a few methods to pair up the immobiliser using Ren0link to virgin uch & ecu, tried to pair up no joy. Pretty frustrating at times i admit.
Anyway stuck with it and bench read/wrote the eeprom and modified the file a few times and finally cracked it. Used a good modified virgin immob file for ecu, which would usually auto sync but did not on this case. I used reassignment mode bcm which then paired up the ecu.
Engine cranks over and ecu unlocked / can delete dtc's from the ecu so assume once it has a fuel pump fitted should fire up🤞
Some screenshots of Ren0link in action
Changing vin on tbc (cluster)
Scanning to find ecus initially, takes ages. I had to do full scan to locate the sagem s3000, once you have found the relevant modules can scan for them straight away changing the drop down box.
Commands in progress, reassigning ecm. Note some commands rejected, as there is a sequence required and some commands can only be done on virgin uch/ecm.
Uch cleaner to virgin immobiliser. Need to get your isk and pin stored before this as it wipes the keys off, and without the isk/pin you will need a trip to renault.
Hit clear and your immob and key data is gone.
Imobiliser paired up. Note "ecm not protected" = true. If it says false your ecu is locked by immobiliser.
Scanned with clip, still cant see the cluster or s3000 ecu but uch says programmed and immobiliser inactive allowing cranking
Fire up before new year i reckon😁 just need to clear all the s**t out of the back of the van so i can get to the tank sender and pipe the fuel to the fuel rail.
Thanks for reading!
Ive lost a few hours this week trying to sync the r26 ecu to the kangoo uch, initially without success and ecm immobiliser was active, resulting in short cranking and not able to delete dtc's from the ecu as immobiliser active.
Information on programming the immobiliser system is pretty scarce, and apart from meglio conversions which is basically swapping the immobiliser data over from clio eeprom to the megane ecu, there is no info on ecu swaps on the Renault can system.
I dont have the reprogramming cd's for clip and feared it might go tits up trying to mate a different ecu. Can clip was not showing the s3000 properly on the multiplex, had to look into other options to suit my needs.
Found a few open source diagnostic software packages using an obdSX cable to connect.
Options available
Ddt2000, Ddt4all, Pyren & Ren0link.
I downloaded all of them and give them all a test run on diagnostics (on my blue clio as cheapest to fix
).All similar yet different options as all use the ddt2000 ecu database.
Went with Ren0link, as its a little easier to use and bought the latest copy with a licence. For the people who have not heard of Ren0link, its a great alternative to clip. Its a 3rd party software and powerful, press the wrong button and your in the s**t basically, there is hardly any info or instructions for anything apart from key programming. Press a button and theres no warning, or do you really want to do this, it just fires the command, and if not careful you have wiped or bricked one of the modules and its a trip to Renault resulting in £££.
I went with this as it has a tool to find the isk and pin in the uch to program keys, and other easy to use tools, i.e. virgin uch and ecu on obd, vin change to attempt to marry my 197 cluster and sagem s3000 up to the Kangoo uch.
Tried a few methods to pair up the immobiliser using Ren0link to virgin uch & ecu, tried to pair up no joy. Pretty frustrating at times i admit.
Anyway stuck with it and bench read/wrote the eeprom and modified the file a few times and finally cracked it. Used a good modified virgin immob file for ecu, which would usually auto sync but did not on this case. I used reassignment mode bcm which then paired up the ecu.
Engine cranks over and ecu unlocked / can delete dtc's from the ecu so assume once it has a fuel pump fitted should fire up🤞
Some screenshots of Ren0link in action
Changing vin on tbc (cluster)
Scanning to find ecus initially, takes ages. I had to do full scan to locate the sagem s3000, once you have found the relevant modules can scan for them straight away changing the drop down box.
Commands in progress, reassigning ecm. Note some commands rejected, as there is a sequence required and some commands can only be done on virgin uch/ecm.
Uch cleaner to virgin immobiliser. Need to get your isk and pin stored before this as it wipes the keys off, and without the isk/pin you will need a trip to renault.
Hit clear and your immob and key data is gone.
Imobiliser paired up. Note "ecm not protected" = true. If it says false your ecu is locked by immobiliser.
Scanned with clip, still cant see the cluster or s3000 ecu but uch says programmed and immobiliser inactive allowing cranking
Fire up before new year i reckon😁 just need to clear all the s**t out of the back of the van so i can get to the tank sender and pipe the fuel to the fuel rail.
Thanks for reading!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates
Dose of covid put me on my arse for a couple of weeks so did not make the planned fire up before new year. Have been chipping away though.
Jacked up and tank off as no access hole in floor to get to sender, easy job did not need to drop beam and no exhaust fitted. No fuel pump wiring in diesel loom as expected.
Grotty as expected
Jetwashed the outside, and sender cracked off with the tool, was tight but came off ok.
Suction pump to remove remaining diesel, jetwashed then quick swill with brake cleaner and left to dry. Pic of inside of tank once cleaned.
Compared meg fuel pump/sender and pretty much identical to kangoo, had to change the orientation of the level sensor and change the float but apart from that straight in. Forgot to take any pics of this but tank is ready to be refitted, have decided to make a removable access panel in the rear floor as i will need to be in the sender soon.
Next job was to fit new rad, large intercooler and boost hoses. Waited for a valeo rad to turn up from overseas and turned out to be the new crap design. Did not cost too much so stuck it on for now and will hunt out a new or good used original design valeo.
Brackets fabbed and intercooler fitted. Intercooler is ebays finest 600x300x75mm core, i opted for this as no point in spending a fortune on a megane airtec to hack it about to fit.
This is a tube/fin design, if charge temps get a bit high will upgrade to bar and plate of the same size. I run the bar and plate on my Extra van and the charge temps are great flogging 2bar of boost through it with a turbo out of its efficiency, so should work ok on this.
Made the cold side boost hose up. Chopped a meg hard pipe kit in half, swaged the joins with my home made swaging tool, routed and fitted with high grip genuine jubilee clips.
Its getting tight in there with all the s**t in place, same as megane.
Filled up coolant with a gallon of type d and bled. Megane 2 header tank fits in the corner like its always meant to have been there, it had the hole already cut out to fit the lower hose in and the stud to bolt it up.
Bumper test fitted, nice and discreet.
Dose of covid put me on my arse for a couple of weeks so did not make the planned fire up before new year. Have been chipping away though.
Jacked up and tank off as no access hole in floor to get to sender, easy job did not need to drop beam and no exhaust fitted. No fuel pump wiring in diesel loom as expected.
Grotty as expected
Jetwashed the outside, and sender cracked off with the tool, was tight but came off ok.
Suction pump to remove remaining diesel, jetwashed then quick swill with brake cleaner and left to dry. Pic of inside of tank once cleaned.
Compared meg fuel pump/sender and pretty much identical to kangoo, had to change the orientation of the level sensor and change the float but apart from that straight in. Forgot to take any pics of this but tank is ready to be refitted, have decided to make a removable access panel in the rear floor as i will need to be in the sender soon.
Next job was to fit new rad, large intercooler and boost hoses. Waited for a valeo rad to turn up from overseas and turned out to be the new crap design. Did not cost too much so stuck it on for now and will hunt out a new or good used original design valeo.
Brackets fabbed and intercooler fitted. Intercooler is ebays finest 600x300x75mm core, i opted for this as no point in spending a fortune on a megane airtec to hack it about to fit.
This is a tube/fin design, if charge temps get a bit high will upgrade to bar and plate of the same size. I run the bar and plate on my Extra van and the charge temps are great flogging 2bar of boost through it with a turbo out of its efficiency, so should work ok on this.
Made the cold side boost hose up. Chopped a meg hard pipe kit in half, swaged the joins with my home made swaging tool, routed and fitted with high grip genuine jubilee clips.
Its getting tight in there with all the s**t in place, same as megane.
Filled up coolant with a gallon of type d and bled. Megane 2 header tank fits in the corner like its always meant to have been there, it had the hole already cut out to fit the lower hose in and the stud to bolt it up.
Bumper test fitted, nice and discreet.
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Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
With all the engine sensors finally connected stuck battery on to see if most of the faults/spanner light/check injection would go off.
Was not holding my breath but cracked the ign on and no warning lights for now.
Scanned with clip and nothing really showing. Fuel sender/pump not connected so that flags up df085/df445. Df624 is a software issue and as far as im aware most meglio conversions have this stored without issue, but according to the workshop manual it does not trigger the eml/service light so not in a hurry to fix that.
Checked all live parameters and it looks right, only issue i can see is with accelerator pedal pushed right down its only saying 80%. I guess this is either a throttle body calibration issue or throttle pedal issue. Its still on the Kangoo throttle pedal, which looks identical to megane so might try the megane pedal on and see what it says.
Airfilter is fitted, foam pipercross. As seen its all quite tight in there now. Have left the filter bagged as im sure the scuttle join is leaking slightly so need to sort that.
Thats us up to date. A fuel line and tank away from a fire up.
Thanks for reading!
Was not holding my breath but cracked the ign on and no warning lights for now.
Scanned with clip and nothing really showing. Fuel sender/pump not connected so that flags up df085/df445. Df624 is a software issue and as far as im aware most meglio conversions have this stored without issue, but according to the workshop manual it does not trigger the eml/service light so not in a hurry to fix that.
Checked all live parameters and it looks right, only issue i can see is with accelerator pedal pushed right down its only saying 80%. I guess this is either a throttle body calibration issue or throttle pedal issue. Its still on the Kangoo throttle pedal, which looks identical to megane so might try the megane pedal on and see what it says.
Airfilter is fitted, foam pipercross. As seen its all quite tight in there now. Have left the filter bagged as im sure the scuttle join is leaking slightly so need to sort that.
Thats us up to date. A fuel line and tank away from a fire up.
Thanks for reading!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Hot side boost hose done.
Chopped about the other forge megane hardpipe kit to fit better. Home made swage tool in use again
Next job was to trim the lower bumper panel to fit again. Had to keep it as it joins the arch liners, without it they would flap all over. Not much left but serves a purpose.
Stuck the holesaw through the recess behind the plate and binned the plastic that fits in front of the crash bar, to give a little bit of extra airflow for track use.
Tidied up some other loose ends, wiring clipped into place and done some actuator tests on the engine loom, checked rad fan was working etc, all good on low/high speed, aux coolant pump working.
Did plan on fitting the fuel tank and fuel line today but its freezing outside so that can wait until next week.
Thanks for reading!
Chopped about the other forge megane hardpipe kit to fit better. Home made swage tool in use again
Next job was to trim the lower bumper panel to fit again. Had to keep it as it joins the arch liners, without it they would flap all over. Not much left but serves a purpose.
Stuck the holesaw through the recess behind the plate and binned the plastic that fits in front of the crash bar, to give a little bit of extra airflow for track use.
Tidied up some other loose ends, wiring clipped into place and done some actuator tests on the engine loom, checked rad fan was working etc, all good on low/high speed, aux coolant pump working.
Did plan on fitting the fuel tank and fuel line today but its freezing outside so that can wait until next week.
Thanks for reading!
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Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Small update
Lux suede geargaitor fitted and interior pretty complete
Cleaned most of the shite out of the back, its comedy how small the load area is. Get the same amount of gear in the back of a clio2 with no seats in. Fuel tank shows how short it is
Quick clean up. Just sat on ph1 225 alloys with knackered tyres at the moment until its ready to go on the road.
Back end needs to come down a bit. Considering doing my Compomotives anthracite, to save cleaning all the time. Will see.
Thanks for reading!
Lux suede geargaitor fitted and interior pretty complete
Cleaned most of the shite out of the back, its comedy how small the load area is. Get the same amount of gear in the back of a clio2 with no seats in. Fuel tank shows how short it is
Quick clean up. Just sat on ph1 225 alloys with knackered tyres at the moment until its ready to go on the road.
Back end needs to come down a bit. Considering doing my Compomotives anthracite, to save cleaning all the time. Will see.
Thanks for reading!
massiveCoRbyn
ClioSport Club Member
Several
The wheelbase is hilarious. It looks like one of those chopped down VW buses. Be interesting to see how it handles. How does the wheelbase/track compare to a Clio/Megane?
Rob
ClioSport Moderator
It looks like a bloody micro machine! Awesome!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Cheers all, cant wait to get it up and running. Weather is killing the progress at the moment, as working outside as the garage is full of cars
One bonus is the rear stubs can be shimmed, so if it is a bit lively might be able to work with that.
Ive not measured the wheelbase but by going with online figures its 2312mm, compared to clio 2 @2471mm and clio 3 @ 2472mm, so a bit shorter. Track wise its supposed to be very similar to meg, i guess id need to measure it up as it wont match book figures now its on the megane rs front end. Im hoping it all works ok and it can be chucked all over without too much drama but will see.
One bonus is the rear stubs can be shimmed, so if it is a bit lively might be able to work with that.
I bought it from this seller on ebay, if you message them they will do you a custom listing to suit. Quality seems good https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232001967078
