No, hoping to go with this
Going to be quite tight for space, but I'll know better once the seat is mounted
Are you gonna to upgrade to gidraulic clutch pedal?
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Kenny's Kup
- Thread starter Kenny.s
- Start date
Are you gonna to upgrade to gidraulic clutch pedal?
Cheers! I like to try and do as much as I can myself, it's the only way you really learn but there are certain things I'm not going to be foolhardy about, such as doing the welding on the cage, would take me years to get anywhere close to the standard my mate is at and welding a cage prob isnt a sensible thing to practice on!
Sad as it may be I actually really enjoy making and fabricating things or solving problems but I tend to get dragged in and over engineer things. On this though I'm trying my best to keep weight in mind and make everthing as light as I can.
Just need to hope I can drive it well enough to do it justice!
I was hoping to use that pedal box but unfortunately I couldnt get it to fit so a mate bought it for his car.
I couldnt get the seat far enough back to have my legs/feet in a comfortable position so I'm going to retain the standard servo pedal box.
I hadn't decided exactly what I was going to do with the clutch, I was either going to keep the cable and make up a linkage to go onto the pedal or put a hydraulic slave cylinder on the box.
I'll get a few pics tomorrow when i'm back at the workshop, so far though I've not flared any of the holes in the tailgate, most of them are at the top where the spolier sits so would be tricky to get to the opposite side to assemble to flaring tool.
There's not a whole lot left of my tailgate to chop away but I recon there's still a wee few bits of excess metal to go.
Bear in mind that although this will have an mot and be road legal it's never going to be a road car, I fully expect there to be a few draughts here and there and if it's out in heavy rain it's undoubtly going to leak a little but thats a compromise I've made in order to get more weight out.
There's not a whole lot left of my tailgate to chop away but I recon there's still a wee few bits of excess metal to go.
Bear in mind that although this will have an mot and be road legal it's never going to be a road car, I fully expect there to be a few draughts here and there and if it's out in heavy rain it's undoubtly going to leak a little but thats a compromise I've made in order to get more weight out.
It's got to have wipers, indicators, fog light and brake lights etc anyway so it's not that much more to get it road legal, minimal extra wire required and the stuff i'm using weighs heehaw anyway.
It'll also be handy to have it road legal to give it a shake down once it's built, got some cracking roads round here
It'll also be handy to have it road legal to give it a shake down once it's built, got some cracking roads round here
I'm sure the new test is going to cause problems for a lot of people but if they apply the new rules to the letter, just about every rally car out there would fail so there's got to be some sort of common sense applied.
If a car which is obviously for competition use comes in for a test and they try to fail it for not having airbags, seatbelt tensioners, and lack of esp unit and warning lights etc there's something seriously wrong.
End of the day though, it's not a major issue for me if I can get it mot'd, would just be a nice to have but I dont see it being a problem.
If a car which is obviously for competition use comes in for a test and they try to fail it for not having airbags, seatbelt tensioners, and lack of esp unit and warning lights etc there's something seriously wrong.
End of the day though, it's not a major issue for me if I can get it mot'd, would just be a nice to have but I dont see it being a problem.
Once i've done the other side, ill make some gussets to stiffen them up.
I think that you may be interesting in this Front Wishbone Bearing Kit & Stiffening Plates:
http://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/details.php?itemid=154
(as well as Rear Axle Stiffening Profile Kit and Rear Axle Bearing Conversion Kit from there). I install front and rear bearings and they increase the driveability very well, much better then the Powerflex...
I had seen those kits from pure-motorsport but decided to go with the uprated poly bushes.
Been advised by someone who knows his stuff regards suspension that if your running the car on perfectly smooth circuits fully rose jointed suspension can be of benefit but in most situations you need some compliance in the suspension to allow the tyres to bite.
The competitions i'm going to be doing, the surfaces are fairly good in most cases but definately not billiard table smooth
Been advised by someone who knows his stuff regards suspension that if your running the car on perfectly smooth circuits fully rose jointed suspension can be of benefit but in most situations you need some compliance in the suspension to allow the tyres to bite.
The competitions i'm going to be doing, the surfaces are fairly good in most cases but definately not billiard table smooth
No true really, all hi spec competition cars run rose jointed suspension, even a gravel spec rallycar or a Paris-Dakar type (rough as they come). Problems are usually cost both initial cost and maintanence as they need to be replaced on a set frequency. Bushes fit and forget, cheaper and easier.
I'm just going on what I've been advised and from experience there is merit in keeping some compliance in the suspension pick ups.
A touring car will most likely have rose joints everywhere, but they tend to run on very smooth surfaces and have a huge budget to work and develop suspension etc.
A rally car in tarmac spec is a totally different beast to the above, they're constantly changing direction and nearly always on the slide so although they may be quick on tar they go about it in a different way, on gravel, well thats a whole different ball park and not something I'm interested in so cant really comment.
A touring car will most likely have rose joints everywhere, but they tend to run on very smooth surfaces and have a huge budget to work and develop suspension etc.
A rally car in tarmac spec is a totally different beast to the above, they're constantly changing direction and nearly always on the slide so although they may be quick on tar they go about it in a different way, on gravel, well thats a whole different ball park and not something I'm interested in so cant really comment.
Cheers again for the comments guys.
Not a whole lot more to report, was late back to the workshop today, had to pick up a few bits on the way home.
Continued with the brackets for the steering column, had another go with the Tig set today, slowly starting to get to grips with it but I've got a long way to go before I'm anywhere near what my mate can do with it.
Still, I was happy enough to stick the brackets on with it, not as neat as his but good enough for this and there's no chance they're going to come off
Tailgate as it stands just now
Out of curiosity I also weighed the panels,
Door 11kgs
Bonnet 8.8kgs in hinges
Boot 6.1kgs
Dont have any before weights so not sure how much has been removed, was hoping the doors were a bit lighter than that, recon there's maybe a bit more to come out though so all's not lost!
Kenny
Not a whole lot more to report, was late back to the workshop today, had to pick up a few bits on the way home.
Continued with the brackets for the steering column, had another go with the Tig set today, slowly starting to get to grips with it but I've got a long way to go before I'm anywhere near what my mate can do with it.
Still, I was happy enough to stick the brackets on with it, not as neat as his but good enough for this and there's no chance they're going to come off
Tailgate as it stands just now
Out of curiosity I also weighed the panels,
Door 11kgs
Bonnet 8.8kgs in hinges
Boot 6.1kgs
Dont have any before weights so not sure how much has been removed, was hoping the doors were a bit lighter than that, recon there's maybe a bit more to come out though so all's not lost!
Kenny
Confusing post....
Having done racing and rallying personally then i can comment, rose joints all the way for any surface is an improve ment. The only reason people dont do it is cost. Careful who you listen too as 99% on here is Chineese whispers.
Great build, very impressive amount of time commited.
Having done racing and rallying personally then i can comment, rose joints all the way for any surface is an improve ment. The only reason people dont do it is cost. Careful who you listen too as 99% on here is Chineese whispers.
Great build, very impressive amount of time commited.
During last yers I try:
1) Original wisbone bushes
2) Powerflex (not two reliable, need to change them twice in a season)
3) Originall cusom filled by hard polyurethane:
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...-from-Russia&p=7647443&viewfull=1#post7647443
(with some attidional stiffering rings wedged around the bushes mounting holes) - much better the Powerflex
4) Bearings - like them the most
By now I make some alloy triangle wishbone arms with bearings:
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...-from-Russia&p=8248932&viewfull=1#post8248932
- but did not try them yet (will install on the next week).
P.S. Well, I am not rally but touring...
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It certainly is taking up a lot of time! Girlfriend can testify to that lol
Confusing in what way?
The guy I'm refering to isnt on this forum, his job is preparing and restoring some very exotic race cars, mainly older historics, old F1 cars, Can-Am stuff but not limited to that, he's generally a very knowledgeable guy when it comes to anything car related.
There's a lot I dont yet know about these cars so all comments or suggestions are openly received.
For now though I'll go with the poly bushes and see how I get on, once i've had some time in the car I'll be better placed to know what it's doing and where I need to go with it, if that mean going to rose joints, I dont have an issue with that, but might as well learn to walk before I run!
Kenny
During last yers I try:
1) Original wisbone bushes
2) Powerflex (not two reliable, need to change them twice in a season)
3) Originall cusom filled by hard polyurethane:
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...-from-Russia&p=7647443&viewfull=1#post7647443
(with some attidional stiffering rings wedged around the bushes mounting holes) - much better the Powerflex
4) Bearings - like them the most
By now I make some alloy triangle wishbone arms with bearings:
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...-from-Russia&p=8248932&viewfull=1#post8248932
- but did not try them yet (will install on the next week).
P.S. Well, I am not rally but touring...
What is it you use your car for then? How did you manage to wear out the poly bushes? Not heard of that happening before.
The wishbones look very nice! as does the blade anti-roll bar, do you intend to sell these?
Nafoff
ClioSport Club Member
Very very impressive build, very impressed and jealous of some of the work / ideas going in here,
You are very lucky to have that work space and be able to weld also, from my point of view being able to fabricate would cut a massive chunk of £££ off my build...
instead i have to rely on a mate (who is a painter / sprayer) and although he is a mate he still has to run a business....
just a point and a couple of questions though if poss....
my first point, have you thought about loosing the rear wheel well? i have just removed mine, considering what you have already spent on the car its not that much of a spend out, it will save weight and will also allow you (if you wanted in future) to look at diffuser's as you are left with pretty much an open space from the rear axle back to the bumper.... oh and the fact you can weld will mean it should be a pretty easy job....
search my thread out if your curious what i mean
the next thing i was going to pick your brains on was the seat rails, i am currently mid build on mine and am still prior to paint so still have the option to fabricate parts, i was going to be running extra low (custom) subframes on the original seat brace locations but am very much thinking this will be a better way to do it, did you fully fabricate your own set up from scratch?
You are very lucky to have that work space and be able to weld also, from my point of view being able to fabricate would cut a massive chunk of £££ off my build...
instead i have to rely on a mate (who is a painter / sprayer) and although he is a mate he still has to run a business....
just a point and a couple of questions though if poss....
my first point, have you thought about loosing the rear wheel well? i have just removed mine, considering what you have already spent on the car its not that much of a spend out, it will save weight and will also allow you (if you wanted in future) to look at diffuser's as you are left with pretty much an open space from the rear axle back to the bumper.... oh and the fact you can weld will mean it should be a pretty easy job....
search my thread out if your curious what i mean
the next thing i was going to pick your brains on was the seat rails, i am currently mid build on mine and am still prior to paint so still have the option to fabricate parts, i was going to be running extra low (custom) subframes on the original seat brace locations but am very much thinking this will be a better way to do it, did you fully fabricate your own set up from scratch?
Well, camera took more than 10 today but not by much lol
Got the passenger seat rails progressed, starting to get a bit better with the mig, will leave the bit onto the tube for my mate to TIG
My mate is coming up tomorrow to finish the seat rails, got some more bits for my steering column today so will hopefully crack on with that tomorrow.
Kenny.
We got that the blades of ARB will be too short because of space - so it will be expensive but not really works
The wishbones are not tested yet - I got them from powder coating and assemble them today - please look at the new photos:
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...-from-Russia&p=8277139&viewfull=1#post8277139
The first development is always costly because it requires modelling, initialise the manufacturing etc... But my race engineer has some ideas to sell more wishbones as soon as them will pass throw all tests...
P.S. Sorry, my English is not enough good to discuss poly bushes in details...
Cheers,
Yeah the workshop is pretty good considering what it cost me to build it, just fortunate to have a mate with a huge barn thats largely unused, I pay his old dear something every month for elecy and I've got free rein to come and go as I please, dont think I'd be able to build the car if I didn't have this place or else I'd be paying a lot more to rent something.
Saw the update in your thead regards the flat floor, I have thought about doing this too. Having removed the towing eye and stiffening plate from the wheel well, it's very thin, guessing 0.8mm possibly less so not sure how much of a weight saving there is to be had?
It would though as you say make it possible or certainly easier to run a diffuser. I've still got a while before the inside of the car is ready for paint so I'll keep it in mind but as it stands I'm inclined to leave it as is. It's not that much work to do the flat floor at a later date, just a wee bit of paint inside but that shouldnt be too hard to sort.
The seat rails were indeed made up from scratch, the kits from Custom Cages are £80 a side, found it hard to justify that so made my own.
I had some 40mm x2mm T45 tube knocking about anyway but to buy 2mtrs is about £45-50 i think. The brackets were made from 40mm box section with a 3mm wall, costs hee haw from any local metal fabrications place, most will give you wee offcuts for a fiver or less. The strengthening plates were made from 3mm plate again not a lot of cost involved with those either. It was quite fiddly and time consuming but also quite satisfying too (i'm sad like that
) If you want to have a go at making your own feel free to ask any specific questions and I'll do my best to help.Kenny.
Nafoff
ClioSport Club Member
Cheers,
Yeah the workshop is pretty good considering what it cost me to build it, just fortunate to have a mate with a huge barn thats largely unused, I pay his old dear something every month for elecy and I've got free rein to come and go as I please, dont think I'd be able to build the car if I didn't have this place or else I'd be paying a lot more to rent something.
Saw the update in your thead regards the flat floor, I have thought about doing this too. Having removed the towing eye and stiffening plate from the wheel well, it's very thin, guessing 0.8mm possibly less so not sure how much of a weight saving there is to be had?
It would though as you say make it possible or certainly easier to run a diffuser. I've still got a while before the inside of the car is ready for paint so I'll keep it in mind but as it stands I'm inclined to leave it as is. It's not that much work to do the flat floor at a later date, just a wee bit of paint inside but that shouldnt be too hard to sort.
The seat rails were indeed made up from scratch, the kits from Custom Cages are £80 a side, found it hard to justify that so made my own.
I had some 40mm x2mm T45 tube knocking about anyway but to buy 2mtrs is about £45-50 i think. The brackets were made from 40mm box section with a 3mm wall, costs hee haw from any local metal fabrications place, most will give you wee offcuts for a fiver or less. The strengthening plates were made from 3mm plate again not a lot of cost involved with those either. It was quite fiddly and time consuming but also quite satisfying too (i'm sad like that
Kenny.
Yeah i think i am pretty much decided upon changing the mounts now to a rail style, £80 at custom cages though??? they are only around £40 per side at demon tweeks. Thanks for all the info on the materials you used, i was going to ask about the bracket to seat mounts (i never thought of box section)....
I will be looking into this now, materials and welding costs etc etc....but i am pretty sure its getting done.
cheers again.
PS> on another note, i was going to ask, the wholes in the crossmember and doors look like they have been flared? correct? if so this is with a special tool i guess?
The kit from Custom Cages uses 40mm x2mm tube, Demon Tweeks looks like 25mmx2mm and T45 vs CDS, either will be fine though. Mine basically cost me nothing, cant remember when I bought the 40mm tube but worst case both sides owe me about £50 all in.
Yeah the holes have been flared, I made up a wee tool on the lathe at work recon ill prob make a 25mm one when I'm away again next trip.
Yeah the holes have been flared, I made up a wee tool on the lathe at work
recon ill prob make a 25mm one when I'm away again next trip.Had a bit of a late start today, waiting in the house for a few deliveries
When I got to the workshop I sat down to have my lunch with a cuppa, while I was sitting in my trusty thinking chair looking at the back of the car I decided it was time to lose some excess metal from the back panel, it's been bugging me for ages so although it wasn't what I had intended to do today it had to be done at some point
Other side
While I was at the back of the car I decided to offer up the rear bumper, discovered that the bolt holes in the back panel for the sport bumper weren't threaded, assume this is because this shell wasnt intended to be a 172? Not a big deal to sort that though, it was just spot welded on so easy enough to remove,
Mounting plate removed,
Lightened a bit I welded a 6mm nut onto the back of each bit to suit the bumper
Welded back on and primed, all in 0.5kg lost, not a huge amount but if I can keep getting wee bits like that, it all adds up.
While I had the bumpers down off the shelf I chopped the back of the fog light holes out, not sure exactly what I'm going to do regards brake ducts yet but will sort that out later
Eventually got back to what I was planning to do today, added an extra wee tube to the column support, not yet mastered tigging (neatly) around tubes so will get my mate to do it next time he's up
Then got back to making up a mount for the stalks
Hopefully get another good shift in tomorrow
Kenny.
When I got to the workshop I sat down to have my lunch with a cuppa, while I was sitting in my trusty thinking chair looking at the back of the car I decided it was time to lose some excess metal from the back panel, it's been bugging me for ages so although it wasn't what I had intended to do today it had to be done at some point
Other side
While I was at the back of the car I decided to offer up the rear bumper, discovered that the bolt holes in the back panel for the sport bumper weren't threaded, assume this is because this shell wasnt intended to be a 172? Not a big deal to sort that though, it was just spot welded on so easy enough to remove,
Mounting plate removed,
Lightened a bit
I welded a 6mm nut onto the back of each bit to suit the bumperWelded back on and primed, all in 0.5kg lost, not a huge amount but if I can keep getting wee bits like that, it all adds up.
While I had the bumpers down off the shelf I chopped the back of the fog light holes out, not sure exactly what I'm going to do regards brake ducts yet but will sort that out later
Eventually got back to what I was planning to do today, added an extra wee tube to the column support, not yet mastered tigging (neatly) around tubes so will get my mate to do it next time he's up
Then got back to making up a mount for the stalks
Hopefully get another good shift in tomorrow
Kenny.
Nafoff
ClioSport Club Member
nice work sir,
speaking with a fabricator friend tonight, see what he can say
is there any advantage to them being flared other than making them look much neater?
The kit from Custom Cages uses 40mm x2mm tube, Demon Tweeks looks like 25mmx2mm and T45 vs CDS, either will be fine though. Mine basically cost me nothing, cant remember when I bought the 40mm tube but worst case both sides owe me about £50 all in.
Yeah the holes have been flared, I made up a wee tool on the lathe at work
speaking with a fabricator friend tonight, see what he can say
is there any advantage to them being flared other than making them look much neater?
Nafoff
ClioSport Club Member
Flaring the holes will strengthen them
looks like we will have to come up with a tool then, any more info on that kenny?
Yeah, as Gray says, flaring the holes stiffens the panel up and looks a lot better too.
As I mentioned I made mine but there's a guy on ebay that sells them
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/32MM-HOLE...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19cb3a3669
They're made from ally so not sure how well they'll last or cope when used on thicker steel, also the ally is threaded rather than a nut on the back so that thread might strip if given a bit too much abuse. I made mine from a bit of mild steel stock and uses a 10mm bolt with a lose nut so it can be replaced easily.
The front crossmember is pretty thick, even with some oil on the bolt threads it was pretty tough going and the nut/bolt was rather second hand looking by the time i'd finished!
As I mentioned I made mine but there's a guy on ebay that sells them
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/32MM-HOLE...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19cb3a3669
They're made from ally so not sure how well they'll last or cope when used on thicker steel, also the ally is threaded rather than a nut on the back so that thread might strip if given a bit too much abuse. I made mine from a bit of mild steel stock and uses a 10mm bolt with a lose nut so it can be replaced easily.
The front crossmember is pretty thick, even with some oil on the bolt threads it was pretty tough going and the nut/bolt was rather second hand looking by the time i'd finished!
Small update
Had a bit of a set back with the front suspension, got a plan on how to sort it but will have to wait till the new year to get the bits.
In the mean time I carried on with the dash, stalks and steering column etc
Took a bit of jiggery pokery and some trial and error but eventually came up with a way of mounting the stalks which would allow them to be moved away if the wheel spacer was removed
Cant really see it too well in these pictures but there's two spacers in the mounting that can be removed, moving the stalks closer to the dash
Corners rounded off and tidied up a bit
I had a Mk1 dash top sitting ready to go in, trimmed it to fit round the cage which was a bit of a pita, the A-pillar support tubes make it hard to get anything past, ended up with a much bigger gap between the cage and the dash than I was happy with but even once it was in it didnt really served any purpose, it was too far away to be any use for mounting things on and the clock surround was too low to put a rev counter in it and be able to see it past the steering wheel.
So it was time to dig out the Mk2 dash top. I know these are a bit heavier but after looking at it, I figured there was a good chunk of weight to come out of it by removing as much of the passenger airbag plastic as i could, took a while but eventually managed to grind it all off. It's still a bit heavier but only by about 1 kg.
Next job was to remove the soft touch covering
Then the foam!!!! nightmare of a job, tried all sorts, best results were with a wire brush in a drill and also a hand wire brush for some of the tricky bits
After about 1.5hrs
Decided to take a different approach with this one, rather than cutting bit chunks off the ends to get it past the cage, I decided to cut the dash in half which allowed me to trim it round the cage a bit neater, still not perfect but it's a tricky thing to work out, once you've got it fitted it's easy to see where you should have left material. It's good enough though
Roughly held in position and proped up
Today I started working on the brackets to hold it and also serve as the support for the main switch panel, early days, but so far, made from 15mmx1mm steel tube
Might get a bit more done on Tuesday but if not that'll be it till the new year.
Kenny.
Had a bit of a set back with the front suspension, got a plan on how to sort it but will have to wait till the new year to get the bits.
In the mean time I carried on with the dash, stalks and steering column etc
Took a bit of jiggery pokery and some trial and error but eventually came up with a way of mounting the stalks which would allow them to be moved away if the wheel spacer was removed
Cant really see it too well in these pictures but there's two spacers in the mounting that can be removed, moving the stalks closer to the dash
Corners rounded off and tidied up a bit
I had a Mk1 dash top sitting ready to go in, trimmed it to fit round the cage which was a bit of a pita, the A-pillar support tubes make it hard to get anything past, ended up with a much bigger gap between the cage and the dash than I was happy with but even once it was in it didnt really served any purpose, it was too far away to be any use for mounting things on and the clock surround was too low to put a rev counter in it and be able to see it past the steering wheel.
So it was time to dig out the Mk2 dash top. I know these are a bit heavier but after looking at it, I figured there was a good chunk of weight to come out of it by removing as much of the passenger airbag plastic as i could, took a while but eventually managed to grind it all off. It's still a bit heavier but only by about 1 kg.
Next job was to remove the soft touch covering
Then the foam!!!! nightmare of a job, tried all sorts, best results were with a wire brush in a drill and also a hand wire brush for some of the tricky bits
After about 1.5hrs
Decided to take a different approach with this one, rather than cutting bit chunks off the ends to get it past the cage, I decided to cut the dash in half which allowed me to trim it round the cage a bit neater, still not perfect but it's a tricky thing to work out, once you've got it fitted it's easy to see where you should have left material. It's good enough though
Roughly held in position and proped up
Today I started working on the brackets to hold it and also serve as the support for the main switch panel, early days, but so far, made from 15mmx1mm steel tube
Might get a bit more done on Tuesday but if not that'll be it till the new year.
Kenny.
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Yeah, it's definitely the way to do it. I carefully removed the centre bit by grinding off the plastic welds and then sliced it through the middle, you can just make out the cut line.
If I had another dash to use i'd be able to get it even neater but it's good enough, once the dash is flocked and the A-pillars are painted black it'll look fine.
If I had another dash to use i'd be able to get it even neater but it's good enough, once the dash is flocked and the A-pillars are painted black it'll look fine.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
I wish I'd thought of doing mine that way before I got it flocked! I've got the same cage as you just minus the a pillar brackets. I managed to get it pretty neat considering the a pillar tubes come inwards, and the gap around the tube/dash is pretty small.
Clio 2 cup racer
Very nice project!
You modified your subframe, I did almost the same to my previous car, R5 gtt, I found out that in that car I only had 24mm of space between the subframe and the gearbox. I don't know how much higher you made the ears but I thought I should mention it. It would be a pity if your gearbox hits your modified subframe ears
It probably was easier to buy clio 2 cup suspension parts as they give you more width and already have RCA correction + solid bushes
Good luck with this car
You modified your subframe, I did almost the same to my previous car, R5 gtt, I found out that in that car I only had 24mm of space between the subframe and the gearbox. I don't know how much higher you made the ears but I thought I should mention it. It would be a pity if your gearbox hits your modified subframe ears
It probably was easier to buy clio 2 cup suspension parts as they give you more width and already have RCA correction + solid bushes
Good luck with this car
The space between the gearbox and the n/s front wishbone is going to be tight, I offered the gearbox up to the subframe out of the car, using the lower mount and the dog bone to locate it in the subframe, not an exact way of checking I know but it looked like it would clear, just! Before I go any further though I'm going to get the engine and box in the car and find out for sure. If anything is going to touch it looked like being the tin cover on the end, poped that off and I recon there's scope for a tactical "dent" in it to pinch a bit more space lol
Just as a sanity check, before I came back to work, I decided to chuck the gearbox in and check the clearance between the end cover and the new wishbone pick up points. Box was located with the dogbone, upper mount and the lower one seen in the picture, and then supported on the jack to get correct position, loads of room
Also did a bit more work on the switch panel, nothing finalised, just mocking stuff up to get a better picture in my head of how I want it and to help decide where to put things etc.
All this is just done roughly but it's given me a few ideas
Also did a bit more work on the switch panel, nothing finalised, just mocking stuff up to get a better picture in my head of how I want it and to help decide where to put things etc.
All this is just done roughly but it's given me a few ideas
Nafoff
ClioSport Club Member
centre console is nicely located / thought out,
will you stay with the ally? or you thinking about carbon/fibreglass
will you stay with the ally? or you thinking about carbon/fibreglass
