Kit's Ph1 172

[KitsonRis]

Little bit more progress this weekend.
Re-refurbed the lights.

MUUUUCH better!!!
Painted the badges black. Now there isn't any chrome or blue trim left.
14 years of grime!!

Just need to wait for them to dry and put them back on the car. Looks a lot smarter I think.
Front wheel spacers fitted

Fitted the ally bonnet too....bit of a nightmare as I snapped a bolt doing it up ffs. Then I snapped and burnt out several drill bits trying to drill it out. Failed. So I used three bolts and then some metal epoxy resin to put the hinge on the bonnet. Safe to say the bonnet is not coming off the hinges!

 

[Jekyll]

Headlights look much better now! Refurbishment makes all the difference

Spacers are the perfect size too :wink: Light aren't they?

 

[KitsonRis]

Its the second refurb in about 6 months, although I dont think I polished them enough the first time. When I made them black you could see it so I thought it best to redo them
YEah the spacers are perfect! Got some rears I need to fit at some point, just didn't get around to it this weekend.

 

[KitsonRis]

Managed to get some stuff doen over the Christmas break, not as much as I wanted due to not buying the right rivets!
First was the goodies I got...new wiper blades and some rubber mats for the front

Also fitted Citroen C3 mist washer jets. THis is now how they look...yes a brilliant picture I know!

Riveted the mats down so they don't move about. Rivets weren't quite long enough and I didn't want to drill in some places/floor was contoured so the rivet placement seems odd, but there is a valid reason for this. They will do the job perfectly and help give foot grip and protect the foot wells.

Got all the dash and interior sorted. Looks very good. Although I may have to buy a new steering wheel as the new flocking really shows up the worn wheel - yes it was a cheap one!

Exterior baded all painted black now, looks a lot more mean and purposeful. Annoyingly my Renault badge ont he back has pins and the Sport bit doesn't so the plan of replacing it with a sticker was stopped in its tracks! So I had to glue the sport badge on, so that isn't coming off ina hurry, but the only time it is is when the boot lid is swapped for a plastic one

Got loads of blck plastic material to make door cards. So I made a start at that. I think they look good. However, the tops of the door where I want to rivet are double thickness and also vary in thickness so the rivets I bought didn't fit!! So I have only got this far, also the bit around the door handle in the picture is a template and a proper one needs making up.

The cut out is for a door pull. I have ordered longer rivets and a dremmel to cut holes in the driver's side for the window and mirror switches. Going to finish this this weekend. But the hard part of measuring up and making templates has been done so it shouldn't take too long. I have plenty of material for many other door cards so if I don't like these I can start again.

Car is going back on the road this month...EXCITED:tongueclosed: My brother wants to do the suspension at his place so I will need to drive it over there. So I will be ordering some PMS top mounts later tonight so it is all done then and then I wont have to take it apart for a second time. Once this is done then all the stuff I wanted to do over the winter is complete! Over the summer I want to fit solid engine mounts, although I am tempted to fit a new engine (professionally prepared/built with ITBs and cams) in the winter so will do it then, and then fix and upgrade bits when needed over the summer.

 

[JonC219]

Good work so far Kit

I'm going to the sponsor of MasterCard to get mine done haha

 

[Jekyll]

Hurry up!!

 

[KitsonRis]

Good work so far Kit

I'm going to the sponsor of MasterCard to get mine done haha

Thanks! I know nothing has been taxing so far, but I have been out of practice of car maintanence since I left home a few years back.
Tell me about it! I have been lucky to buy things when I can afford/find them and keep them until I need them. The new engine on the other hand may be a different story...I know what I want from it and it's similar spec to the one my brother had in his Peugeot 106 and that cost him nearly £3k ersevere::tired:

Hurry up!! :wink:

I know!!! Two weeks I think and they will be on as I am busy in the meantime. The joys of having the car with you to work on, but it isn't and sat on my dad's drive about 100miles from where I live. The ironic thing is that I live in a garage....but has been converted for living in. It's a good sized garage too and would easily fit two cars end on plus more room!

 

[KitsonRis]

Just totalled up what I have spent this winter on the car....it is more than what I paid for the car :tongueclosed: It will be so worth it in the end!

 

[Jekyll]

It always is that way!

 

[KitsonRis]

Door cards are now done!! Will post pictures tomorrow ewhen I'm back at home and on my PC. Was a bit of a mad rush as it started to rain with about 10mins to go!
Bought a dremel to do the switches and it is simply the best tool I have ever used!! Simple things, simple minds :tongueout: although the passenger window isn't working, if it's because I don't have a switch on the passenger side (took it off but the connection block is there) then I am screwed as the door card is riveted in and I am not taking it off any time soon.
Need to sort insurance out, will probably give Greenlight a call for that.

PMS top mounts turned up, they look sweeeeeet. So all the parts are here to do the suspension in the next few weeks, need to convince my brothers girlfriend she doesn't need him on a Saturday and for my car to be left at their house lol.

Also the car is sounding a bit like a diesel atm It's started up and left for a bout 30mins on tick over one a week or so. I am hoping its because it hasn't been used in anger since September. If not it could be an excuse for a new engine...... Oh and I now have the sticky throttle problem ffs.

 

[KitsonRis]

As promised pictures of my door cards as I knew some people couldn't contain themselved with the suspense of not seeing them :tongueclosed: lol

Simple and effective I think. Do the job. As I said, when I put Lexan windows in I will change the design slightly as I have learnt how to do it now! Future problems......
The door handles are held in by one bolt and they move as they are not support anywhere else. So I wedged a bolt underneath them to stop this! Top bodging :up:

The best tool I own. I am going to dremel ANYTHING and EVERYTHING now.

Had a few ideas on what to do next. Fit an electrial isolator switch inside and out #BecauseRaceCar innit! And maybe a fire extinguisher. I know it is more weight but I think it will be worth it although I never want to have to use it!!

 

[Jekyll]

Better safe than sorry mate.

 

[KitsonRis]

I have just realised that picture of the door is awful! Damn glare on the glossy plastic. The look better in the flesh and not so rippled.

 

[JonC219]

You need both switches plugged in for Windows to work
You are correct

 

[KitsonRis]

Who thought having both switches being fitted for the window to work was a good idea?!?! Passenger will have to suffer with the window constantly up. Although it is an excuse to fit poly windows now.......

 

[KitsonRis]

Made a pannel for the hazard and central locking switch (need to put a hole in for the immobiliser LED). But I am not sure about it, want some opinions.

The switches don't sit flush and I am not sure if I like it. I know I can get a different hazard light switch and work out the connections so it will work with a bit of a bodge into the original connection. I could do away with the central locking switch, I don't think I have ever used it. Will just tuck it up under the dash to get to it if I need it. The thing is with what I have made it is functional, it works. It is just the way they stick out has the potential to drive my OCD mad.

 

[Jekyll]

Not enough finesse IMO.

 

[KitsonRis]

I know what you mean. If they sat flush, like they do in the original trim, then I think it would be fine. I think I will be investing in a new switch, something similar to this and remake the panel. Would rather have the right one installed than fit it and it drive me mad! Was never sure about it when I started to cut the blanking plate.
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/illuminated-push-button-hazard-switch-round
Removing the central locking stwich will give more room for a battery isolation switch without having to cut holes in the dash

 

[Jekyll]

Yeah I like that switch and like you, I think flush would look a lot better.

 

[barnesautos]

Yeah I like that switch and like you, I think flush would look a lot better.

I like it also

 

[Jekyll]

Great minds think alike!

 

[KitsonRis]

Luckily I already have a second panel as I may have slipped with the dremel and one hole is a little too big, so I needed to re-do it anyway!
Just need to source a wiring diagram for the hazard switch connector to do some bodging

 

[barnesautos]

Hope this helps

 

[KitsonRis]

Brilliant thank you! All I was going to do was match the exisiting terminal block connections with what will be on the new switch and patch them in with a home made wires and spade connectors. So knowing what is what on the hazard switch will be needed

 

[KitsonRis]

But looking at the switch, it is two rows of 4 pins with a letter "A" above the top row int he middle. Which order are the pins?! lol. Or is there labels on the connector (can't see as car isn't with me!)

 

[barnesautos]

But looking at the switch, it is two rows of 4 pins with a letter "A" above the top row int he middle. Which order are the pins?! lol. Or is there labels on the connector (can't see as car isn't with me!)

When you get a chance - take a pic of the pins on the switch . I take it your going for the switch in the link above ?

 

[KitsonRis]

When you get a chance - take a pic of the pins on the switch . I take it your going for the switch in the link above ?

This is back of the switch. The "A" is at the top if it isn't clear in the picture.

Think I am going to go for this switch, looks a bit neater.
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/...h-red-circular-with-rubber-splash-proof-cover

 

[barnesautos]

Ok Pin 1 is 12v
Pin 2 is power from direction indicator stalk so that's an input
Pin 5 & 8 is earth
Pin 3 feeds all the lamps so that's flasher output
Pin 4 is also flasher output.
Pin 6 comes from UCH poss power
Pin 7 empty

 

[barnesautos]

This is back of the switch. The "A" is at the top if it isn't clear in the picture.

Think I am going to go for this switch, looks a bit neater.
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/...h-red-circular-with-rubber-splash-proof-cover

So long as you have some sort of paperwork showing terminals with the new switch - it should be straight forward.

 

[KitsonRis]

Thats amazing, THANKS! I hate car electrics.....actually I hate electronics and anything like that. Remember helping my step dad wire his kit car and that was a nightmare! I am sure it took longer to wire it than all of the mechanical building of it
Totally missed input 7 was missing! I will just look at the wire colours to determine pin number, didn't know why I didn't think of that earlier.
Yeah, hopefully it will! The new switch has numbers printed on the back next to the terminals so I am sure they mean something. So match the colour of wire to the terminals that you have said and then put them into the right place on the new switch?? Hopefully it is that simple

 

[barnesautos]

Try not to get to hooked up on wire colours as the diagram I supplied is a generic one and not model specific .
I'd say measure the 12 volt inputs and flashing circuits and label them. Go that route not colours .

 

[KitsonRis]

ahh ok, would have thought the general loom would be the same over the entire range, but knowing the things on my car that have not been straight forward it could be anything.
Thanks for the advice.

 

[Mash.]

Get yourself an electrical probe, such a useful thing when it comes to wiring or diagnostics of wiring faults.

 

[KitsonRis]

I've got a multi meter yeah, but I just hate anything electrical

 

[KitsonRis]

Car is back on the road.....not for long as I've just driven to my brothers so the suspension can be changed.
Wouldn't start this morning, battery was fine, and cranked over fine, just didn't fire. Tbh I may have poo'd my pants as I though this is going to be immobiliser and it's going to be expensive. But then it worked!!
The sticky throttle problem is now even worse and verging on undrivable. have to pull the pedal up with my toe to reduce the revs. @Dr Jekyll did you ever solve your sticky throttle?

Right to work....all I want to get done today is take front shocks out, mark up holes for new top mounts and possible start the rear shock removal. More I get done today, the less me and my brother have to do. He is the more practical one out of us two!!

 

[Mash.]

Car is back on the road.....not for long as I've just driven to my brothers so the suspension can be changed.
Wouldn't start this morning, battery was fine, and cranked over fine, just didn't fire. Tbh I may have poo'd my pants as I though this is going to be immobiliser and it's going to be expensive. But then it worked!!
The sticky throttle problem is now even worse and verging on undrivable. have to pull the pedal up with my toe to reduce the revs. @Dr Jekyll did you ever solve your sticky throttle?

Right to work....all I want to get done today is take front shocks out, mark up holes for new top mounts and possible start the rear shock removal. More I get done today, the less me and my brother have to do. He is the more practical one out of us two!!

Type in electrical probe in Google, much more useful than a multimeter, can check earth's and recreates earth's a lives at the flick of a switch.

In terms of your throttle, remove the TB and you'll see where the butterfly valve wears unevenly on the inner casing from constant opening and closing.. You can adjust it slightly using the screws that hold the spindle.

Also in addition strip it down and clean with degreaser and reassemble with proper spray lube, not wd40

 

[KitsonRis]

Type in electrical probe in Google, much more useful than a multimeter, can check earth's and recreates earth's a lives at the flick of a switch.

In terms of your throttle, remove the TB and you'll see where the butterfly valve wears unevenly on the inner casing from constant opening and closing.. You can adjust it slightly using the screws that hold the spindle.

Also in addition strip it down and clean with degreaser and reassemble with proper spray lube, not wd40

Apart from the throttle it's fine after months of no use, just needs to be used as it is a bit noisy and tappy, which I am sure will go after a good long run

Ahh ok, don't really fancy stripping it down but if needs must!! As I have no engine breaking, it revs to 5k every time I change gear, and I look like a moron sat at lights and junctions as it idles high! Thanks for that info though, I'll get on with it when I've done the suspension.

Front shocks are off, just need to clean them up as they may be sellable. Glad I have new top mounts, the ones on the car are ummm....fubar!

 

[Mash.]

Apart from the throttle it's fine after months of no use, just needs to be used as it is a bit noisy and tappy, which I am sure will go after a good long run

Ahh ok, don't really fancy stripping it down but if needs must!! As I have no engine breaking, it revs to 5k every time I change gear, and I look like a moron sat at lights and junctions as it idles high! Thanks for that info though, I'll get on with it when I've done the suspension.

Front shocks are off, just need to clean them up as they may be sellable. Glad I have new top mounts, the ones on the car are ummm....fubar!

Do the revs fluctuate? or is it just a constant high reving? If the latter it's more like an air leak rather than TB.

 

[KitsonRis]

Constant high revs. But this can be brought down by pulling the pedal up. Also the throttle pedal is very stiff and it's hard to get revs pulling off. It is as if the cable isn't doing anything.

 

[Jekyll]

Not a worn cable? That can cause a sticky throttle on these too.

I changed mine and was fine. My idle issue was due to the TB gasket being knackered. Ordered a new one and all was good