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Megane 225 powered 172 cup.



Hey guys, so moving on from my last track project - "track phase 182" Ive decided to do something Ive always wanted to do, which is put a 225 engine into a 1*2. This oportunity came about last weekend at Castle combe i took some chap out in my clio below, and he enjoyed it that much he made me an offer I couldnt refuse, so its sold and hopefully this weekend he is picking it up

November 2015

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August 2016

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This first part of this project thread will essentially be a 225 guide, covering everything (I hope) - so stay tuned if thats yo think.

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npt

  BMW 320d- 172 cup
Is this a proper conversion with the 6 speed box or is it still using the Clio box?
 
So this is the list I've been working on, pretty sure Ive covered everything I need to buy, few engine mount things that arnt listed as they will be made.

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But yeah thats something like 3.5k there and thats without the standalone ecu [emoji22]
With a meg donor car you could quite easily see the conversion under 1.5k - but thats not really where I wanted the car, and obviously had to get a gripper didnt I [emoji14]

So yeah this sunday morning the BG will be taken away, and then I will set off down to devon trailer in tow to pick up the cup, I need a catchy name for this project and #turbocup has already been taken... anyone?


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"Goodbye my lovaaar"

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Had the budget in most things you could really go to town on it haha

Yeah got to see how she drives or I get on with over 100bhp more, should be good!

And that could work

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Shes home, went out for a quick spin before i started removing the engine it was good fun tbh the noise of the bodies Is very moorish!

The driving position is horrendous compared to my other car, which can be sorted with some column movement and hopefully theres some slack in the megane shifter cables so the shifter can be moved back when its in!

In the 182 the exhaust tunnel was welded 8cm futher back which was much better so we can see what we can do!


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Anyway there we go, didnt get very far today due to weather but engine should be out tomorrow afternoon!

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Engines out!

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Interior has been stripped, came across a problem with the dash dodger, its actually no good to get the dash out...

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So I ended up cutting it in half... hopefully to be hidden by a fiberglass dash pod which will join the two pieces together..

Picked up the 225 engine and other bits, measured it up to check it would fit in a coupe, it did...

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Tomorrow will involve getting the meg engine in and brackets made up, and picking up my driveshafts also, saweeet

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[emoji23] at the dash dodger! Looks a thought for in the coupe, but that GTT looks sweet.
Coupe is a trooper! And Ive never liked the dash dodger when ive got some money behind me again I'll sell it and get another one.

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Anyway good day today, wasnt a good day to choose to be in a small space cutting and welding but a big thanks to a mate Alex who sorted out the welding for me.

Ran out of time In the end to finish the dogbone mount, but we got the engine in and sat on the gearbox mount and original engine mount..

Were it all started...

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First problem I faced was the aux belt routing, so Ive seen how people have done it with the rose joints and a tie rod to lower the pulley down so it runs with the tensioner.

Instead I have cut the cam belt cover so I can run the aux belt straight through from crank pulley and aux, yes this leaves a bit of the gap showing the cambelt, but ill see if I can sort another cover, if not no biggy. No tensioner part should work fine, itll just be more of a pain finding a belt the right size, but its only sprinning the alternator so shouldnt neeed to be to tight.

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Anyway while I was stripping the engine, alex was busy welding...

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Anyway there we go, the finished chassis notch, when we fitted the engine/box it didnt actually need to be as wide as this, reference the bolts for size.

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Moving on, the box mount - this is a hybrid of using the meg lower spider mount and the clio upper battery tray and bush.

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Nice and easy on that side.

Anyway it needs another 2 more engine mounts made.. ideally one for the dogbone and another torque mount infront of the gearbox.

So we started on the front torque mount. Alex made me a box section, and I cut it to shape

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Using a ph1 dogbone to keep is as "off the shelf as possible

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And made an adaptor from the box to the to ph1 dogbone

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So yeah ran out of time to make the dogbone mount, but half of it is made up just to weld it all together.

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Voila.


Next things to do:
-Remove engine
-Clean up engine and box and other parts inlets etc
-Fit shifter inside the cabin, and make hole for it to pass bulkhead.
-Remove cup brake lines and master cylinder, and start measuring out my own to relocate lines and cylinder.
-Purchase log mani and downpipe.
-Start putting engine back in, measure up aux belt.
-Pick up and fit driveshafts.
-Sort out intercooler pipes and intercooler fitting.
-Sort out radiator and coolant pipes.
-Make up lines for oil cooler, and fit radiator for that.
-Finish welding dogbone
-Loom

-Mapping...

Seems to be it...


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The first sentence was in reference to the hot weather... my bad.. words confuse me

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scotiamr2t

ClioSport Club Member
  Mazda 2, Ph1 172
quick progress! i'll watch with interest as this is something i am considering doing. The wiring is the part i dread, i hate wiring
 
Wiring for me shouldnt be to hard at all, it'll be a case of swapping some plugs over to megane plugs and thats about it - using a clio loom and standalone ecu should half the ballache!

Cheers mike, haha it isnt to bad really like most thing when you get your head round it all

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  Trophy,R26,GSXR1000
Looking good mate.

For the chassis rail I just applied some heat and used a ball pein hammer to create the required space. TBH it didn't need very much manipulation. I'm also using clio top mounts but opted for vibratechnics fast road mounts. Race ones were horrendous.

My rear mount is a custom dog bone and bracket that attaches to the gear box/engine bolts.

Linkage has plenty of length so moving it back should be easy. I just drilled out the four studs that are standard clio fitment and bolted the Meg gear stick in the OE position. They are both the same dimensions.

Driveshafts are just a combo of Meg inners and clio CVs. I actually spent a little bit extra here and had motor sport waisted shafts made by Dave Mac. They flex a little which takes some of the strain off the gearbox and clutch. I had problems in the past with wheel spin shock loading the drive train causing gear box failures.

I'd swap the cams out on the engine. They meg ones are really mild and won't work to the best with a GT28. However if your using oe pistons they don't have valve pockets cut out of them.

Brake lines I ran through the scuttle panel. I'd previously had problems with boiling my brakes, I was also boiling PAS fluid. With EPAS and current brake/clutch line routing everything had been fine.

Alternator set up I used a DCI bracket that was for PAS pump and Alternator. Worth the Alternator fitted I then fitted a pulley to the lowest point of the PAS pump bracket with a spacer and utilised the standard aux tensioner.

Radiator I used a aluminium rad with a moral oil cooler mounted on the rear. I put a slimline fan on the front to blow through. Fit a cooler thermostat.

I also fitted a remote oil filter kit. Space is super tight up front and makes oil filter changing a pain. Oil filter now sits on the front cross member in the inner drivers side wheel arch.

Clutch wise I've got a helix kit in the clio. But you can use a TTV smf with a cg motorsport paddle plate and stock r26r pressure plate. I've got this to go in my r26 and my little brother uses the same in his track r26 with 365lbft no probs.

Turbo wise I still think the gt2860r is the best. Will give you 340ish for about a bar of boost (if you swap to clio cams) you might need more boost if you stick with oe cams.

For track work you'll want a external swirl pot. When using an uprated pump it drains the fuel sender unit really quick and you'll have surge issues on right handers if you have less than half a tank. You also need a different fuel rail, the vag 1.8t fuel rail fits with some mods and has a built in fpr and fuel return. It's got the same injector spacing.
 


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