Missfire on Idle after timing belt replacement

[francis.guthrie]

I've just had my timing belt installed and the garage have told me that my dephaser solenoid has snapped. They have not been able to get a new part in time so they've given me the car back with the broken solenoid fitted. The bottom half of the solenoid had snapped and they have only fitted the top half of it. The car seems to drive ok but on idle it is running very rough and tappy. Am I ok to drive this until I can get it back to the garage or am I going to do further damage to cams/dephasers etc?

 

[Poopensharten]

The whole job will need done again, worse than that, its not good practice re tensioning a belt🥴

 

[francis.guthrie]

The whole job will need done again, worse than that, its not good practice re tensioning a belt🥴

Is it not a case of putting a new solenoid in?

 

[hopgop1]

Wouldn't have thought the dephaser solenoid would cause rough running? I'd be worried they've not timed it correctly either, I'd want them to sort it all before driving it personally.

 

[francis.guthrie]

Wouldn't have thought the dephaser solenoid would cause rough running? I'd be worried they've not timed it correctly either, I'd want them to sort it all before driving it personally.

Unfortunately I've already driven it home. Seemed ok on higher revs just rough idle. No fault codes either

 

[Brigsy]

Id be concerned about oil flow to the cams/dephaser with snapped solenoid. I wouldnt be driving it myself, suprised the garage let you take it.

 

[francis.guthrie]

Id be concerned about oil flow to the cams/dephaser with snapped solenoid. I wouldnt be driving it myself, suprised the garage let you take it.

I suggested that they put the snapped part back in but they were more concerned about it getting stuck. Regretting that now

 

[Brigsy]

It sounds like they have had a go and possibly messed it all up. Id be getting it checked by a specialist to check the cam timing is right and pulleys are torqued correctly.

 

[Martin_172]

^^ this.

I would have absolutely no confidence that the process has been carried out correctly. And your miss fire on idle sounds like it's most likely timing related, I bet there's good old tipex involved here!

Got a pic of the solenoid? I don't understand how it's snapped? Unless they mean snapped the connector off it with the slip of a ratchet or somthing??

 

[francis.guthrie]

^^ this.

I would have absolutely no confidence that the process has been carried out correctly. And your miss fire on idle sounds like it's most likely timing related, I bet there's good old tipex involved here!

Got a pic of the solenoid? I don't understand how it's snapped? Unless they mean snapped the connector off it with the slip of a ratchet or somthing??

Photo taken from the Internet but its the metal casing thats snapped along that red line.

 

[DaveL485]

The dephaser, as I recall, uses oil pressure to phase the inlet cam 16 degrees over a certain set of driving parameters including MAP reading, throttle position etc etc - so the cam position naturally should be fine for idle - ie it should NOT run rough or badly even with that solenoid broken. I would be checking the timing is right, immediately. Its a fairly rudimentary setup on the 1*2 in that its not fully variable, the phasing of the cam is ON (16°) or OFF (0°). True VVT is a PWM setup that would be able to vary the cam phase from 0° to 16° and any value in between.

Additionally I dont believe you need to remove the solenoid to do the belt or change the dephaser pulley so why were they messing with it?

Ask them to explain the process they used to set the cam timing, write down what they say and transcribe it here - theres a fair chance they havent done it right.

 

[francis.guthrie]

The dephaser, as I recall, uses oil pressure to phase the inlet cam 16 degrees over a certain set of driving parameters including MAP reading, throttle position etc etc - so the cam position naturally should be fine for idle - ie it should NOT run rough or badly even with that solenoid broken. I would be checking the timing is right, immediately. Its a fairly rudimentary setup on the 1*2 in that its not fully variable, the phasing of the cam is ON (16°) or OFF (0°). True VVT is a PWM setup that would be able to vary the cam phase from 0° to 16° and any value in between.

Additionally I dont believe you need to remove the solenoid to do the belt or change the dephaser pulley so why were they messing with it?

Ask them to explain the process they used to set the cam timing, write down what they say and transcribe it here - theres a fair chance they havent done it right.

A new solenoid has been fitted which has greatly improved it but its quite lumpy on idle still. I'll be taking it somewhere else to get it fully checked over. They took the solenoid out to take the cam cover off as it was leaking.

 

[Darren S]

A new solenoid has been fitted which has greatly improved it but its quite lumpy on idle still. I'll be taking it somewhere else to get it fully checked over. They took the solenoid out to take the cam cover off as it was leaking.

Whereabouts are you located?

I'd definitely be taking it to a local'ish specialist, sooner rather than later.

 

[shanks]

As above , Bite the bullet and take it to a specialist. Mickpm@ diamond if you are round Nottingham/ midlands.
Last thing you need is for it to go bang

 

[DaveL485]

Lakeside Service Centre in Redditch can also do these properly, good mate of mine and I lend him my dephaser tools when he gets one in.

 

[Autolaca82]

Se le ha instalado un nuevo solenoide que lo ha mejorado mucho, pero sigue teniendo algunos baches al ralentí. Lo llevaré a otro lado para que lo revisen por completo. Quitaron el solenoide para sacar la tapa de la leva porque tenía una fuga.

al final que ha pasado ??