ClioSport.net
Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.
New Barge - Stage 1 Completed!
- Thread starter Mike_182
- Start date
Better than yours. C*nt.
Well, just on my way up to Redcar (Hai Needy) as there appears to be a black leather S4 interior up for grabs. Here's hoping it's what I'm after so I can pillage covers/bolsters from it and save myself a grand there! Bodywork-wise, Halfords have mixed up a tin of very badly matching paint which is better than the black and white scuffs so I may just be able to salvage some of this yet...
old style wins for me, original is best
ForceIndia
ClioSport Club Member
Gentlemans spec 200
6k, dump clutch, snap neck.
Better than yours. C*nt.
Sounds about right!
98 Audi S4, 67 VW Beetle
+1
Nice car that
Not too keen on the wheels though.A prefacelift car with facelift bonnet, boot and rear lights but headlights are prefacelift? Odd one that.
Better than yours. C*nt.
+1
Nice car that
A prefacelift car with facelift bonnet, boot and rear lights but headlights are prefacelift? Odd one that.
The grill I'm not sure on but the rest is pre-facelift. Didn't the rear lights get clear, as opposed to dark, reverse lights on facelift cars?
98 Audi S4, 67 VW Beetle
Pretty sure its fl bonnet - are the skooshers under it or on top?
and the boot has no swage line, so pretty sure its fl.
Will have a check and see about the lights though
Like the way yours is sitting, nice stance, not too low not jacked up like mine
and the boot has no swage line, so pretty sure its fl.
Will have a check and see about the lights though
Like the way yours is sitting, nice stance, not too low not jacked up like mine
98 Audi S4, 67 VW Beetle
Aha that explains it
Skooshers... ah yeah ok, windscreen washer jets
Skooshers... ah yeah ok, windscreen washer jets
Better than yours. C*nt.
Right, f**k it. Plunge taken - sick of trying to get a mint interior for cheap, so I've landed myself with this:
Which I'll hopefully be nailing in this weekend. All electric, heated Recaros including rears. Exhaust is next on the list - hopefully speak to Fred about sorting that tomorrow/Friday!
It's left me a couple of £k short of stuff for the house, but it's nothing I can't pick up in overtime over a couple of months and given that it's at least 2 months 'til completion anyway with a bit of luck, all will be well!
Which I'll hopefully be nailing in this weekend. All electric, heated Recaros including rears. Exhaust is next on the list - hopefully speak to Fred about sorting that tomorrow/Friday!
It's left me a couple of £k short of stuff for the house, but it's nothing I can't pick up in overtime over a couple of months and given that it's at least 2 months 'til completion anyway with a bit of luck, all will be well!
Better than yours. C*nt.
Was resting on something when it was in storage apparently, however with a bit of massaging and leather feed it's near enough gone already.
Better than yours. C*nt.
Stuff along these lines:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Connolly's-Hi...vr_id=&cguid=3e90dc961270a0aad234cde4ff125817
Helps to soften the leather, which you can then massage back into shape.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Connolly's-Hi...vr_id=&cguid=3e90dc961270a0aad234cde4ff125817
Helps to soften the leather, which you can then massage back into shape.
I've explained before, but i'll explain again.
Car leather is made from corrected grain leather. Basically after the beamhouse process (fat and hair removing) They use enzymes to remove fat's and proteins (thats what stops your leather rotting)
Then its tanned to give it the properties they want, softness etc etc. To do this they use a combination of PH and Temp to open the leather and they reinsert the fats etc that have been removed in beamhouse artifically. This is done in car leathers case by using chrome. The chrome gives the hide a blue appearance, and this is then sold as "wet blue" ,the cow hide is split into two parts, The bottom half goes away to be suede for the inside of shoes,low quality goods or artificial leather, the top section plus grain is kept for the higher end applications.
The tannery either makes themselves or buys in wet blue, and after that it is retanned to their exact specs. Again they use PH and Temp to insert the fat liquors etc they need for feel and softness. At this stage its also dyed, usually in a rough colour to what the final colour will be, so scratches don't show. Once this is done its usually corrected.
Corrected grain means on a number of occasions (unless you have very high quality cow hides, Bavarian as an example) The marked hide (brands insect bites barbed wire scrathes etc) is fillered, then buffed (big sanding machine to level the surface, A tannery makes its money on cutting yield, so the more pieces of a seat the car company can cut from one hide = profit. A big brand mark in the middle fcuks this up.
Once all thats done, Its finished, Acrylic resin and pigment as a base coat, Acrylic and PU as a colour coat, and then a PU Topcoat to protect, usually clear but sometimes pigmented.
Each of these coats has to have "intercoat adhesion" they basically need to stick to others so one doesn't peel off or crack. In this basecoat and colour coat process, it was also be printed, which gives the leather back its natural look, and prints on a fake skin look. The final topcoat is Crosslinked usually using a isocynate crosslinker, which hardens it up for scuff and abrasion resistance.
Now to heat and feed a pore as they say, minus any form of Ph influence. You have to go through 3 layers of dried resin, one of which is crosslinked , then magically open the pores, and drive this magic food through a shed load of chrome and fatliquors, which took the best part of a week to add correctly. All this can then "as it says on the bottle" be done in a matter of minutes".
Absolute COD s**t. LOL
Ond for the record, i spent a 3 months working at connelys before they closed, and even they admit they just make money on leather food because " if they are silly enough to buy it we'll sell it"
Car leather is made from corrected grain leather. Basically after the beamhouse process (fat and hair removing) They use enzymes to remove fat's and proteins (thats what stops your leather rotting)
Then its tanned to give it the properties they want, softness etc etc. To do this they use a combination of PH and Temp to open the leather and they reinsert the fats etc that have been removed in beamhouse artifically. This is done in car leathers case by using chrome. The chrome gives the hide a blue appearance, and this is then sold as "wet blue" ,the cow hide is split into two parts, The bottom half goes away to be suede for the inside of shoes,low quality goods or artificial leather, the top section plus grain is kept for the higher end applications.
The tannery either makes themselves or buys in wet blue, and after that it is retanned to their exact specs. Again they use PH and Temp to insert the fat liquors etc they need for feel and softness. At this stage its also dyed, usually in a rough colour to what the final colour will be, so scratches don't show. Once this is done its usually corrected.
Corrected grain means on a number of occasions (unless you have very high quality cow hides, Bavarian as an example) The marked hide (brands insect bites barbed wire scrathes etc) is fillered, then buffed (big sanding machine to level the surface, A tannery makes its money on cutting yield, so the more pieces of a seat the car company can cut from one hide = profit. A big brand mark in the middle fcuks this up.
Once all thats done, Its finished, Acrylic resin and pigment as a base coat, Acrylic and PU as a colour coat, and then a PU Topcoat to protect, usually clear but sometimes pigmented.
Each of these coats has to have "intercoat adhesion" they basically need to stick to others so one doesn't peel off or crack. In this basecoat and colour coat process, it was also be printed, which gives the leather back its natural look, and prints on a fake skin look. The final topcoat is Crosslinked usually using a isocynate crosslinker, which hardens it up for scuff and abrasion resistance.
Now to heat and feed a pore as they say, minus any form of Ph influence. You have to go through 3 layers of dried resin, one of which is crosslinked , then magically open the pores, and drive this magic food through a shed load of chrome and fatliquors, which took the best part of a week to add correctly. All this can then "as it says on the bottle" be done in a matter of minutes".
Absolute COD s**t. LOL
Ond for the record, i spent a 3 months working at connelys before they closed, and even they admit they just make money on leather food because " if they are silly enough to buy it we'll sell it"
Better than yours. C*nt.
The problems you face are, you're going against my personal experience with a product, and you're a condescending sod at the best of times so don't exactly render yourself as having an opinion I'd particularly value.
Again, sorry that your cornflakes are a bit soggy.
And you go against 17 years of my personal experience making automotive leather PMSL.
So the bottled wax you have, has the particle size to get through 3 layers of epoxy and polyurethane resin does it, before having the penetrating power to get beyond the surface layer of the leather, past the crome and fat liquors and actually "soften" the leather???
It cleaned it, made the surface glossy and left some on the surface, They contain waxes and silicates, which to the human touch feel soft, it does not and will not soften the leather, its all appearence, its a placebo. And it will wear away from the surface leaving the leather exactly where it was before.
if you wanna carry on using the vast depth of your experience, carry on, I get paid to do this. You are not going to soggy my cornflakes, It is not "food" you can only feed something that is alive, and the cow its made from died long ago I'm afraid.
If you wanna use it be my guest.
So the bottled wax you have, has the particle size to get through 3 layers of epoxy and polyurethane resin does it, before having the penetrating power to get beyond the surface layer of the leather, past the crome and fat liquors and actually "soften" the leather???
It cleaned it, made the surface glossy and left some on the surface, They contain waxes and silicates, which to the human touch feel soft, it does not and will not soften the leather, its all appearence, its a placebo. And it will wear away from the surface leaving the leather exactly where it was before.
if you wanna carry on using the vast depth of your experience, carry on, I get paid to do this. You are not going to soggy my cornflakes, It is not "food" you can only feed something that is alive, and the cow its made from died long ago I'm afraid.
If you wanna use it be my guest.
Similar threads
