Ph2 dash conversion wiring

[Timmsy]

Hi all that have done this conversion.

http://www.cliosport.net/threads/ph1-ph2-dash-conversion-full.583827/

So I've read pretty much every thread i can find on the conversion and it would seem that there is no definitive way of using all the ph2 switching.

Somehow there must be a way to splice them both together and get it fully functional? Airbags aren't a concern so its just the door lock/unlock, hazard, recirc and AC.
would be nice to have a fully functional Ph2 dash

@Rob @Djw John @Stu. @dmallett @Millsy

 

[DannyR]

I'm working on it at the moment.

Currently trying to source a relay for the hazards.

Then onto working out the lock button, I'm thinking that the lock button will only lock, as when opening the door it will unlock anyway.

 

[Timmsy]

@DannyR do you know what type of relay it requires for the hazard?

You only really need it to lock.
(it would be nice to have it unlock, letting in a passenger and having to lean over to open the door is far to much hassle :wink: )

Anyone have both the wiring diagrams from both the ph1 and ph2's? @GrahamS @AlexW maybe?

 

[levaz]

(it would be nice to have it unlock, letting in a passenger and having to lean over to open the door is far to much hassle :wink: )

just pull the drivers door handle?

 

[DannyR]

So I've tinkered a bit this afternoon. I have found the relay I need so will have that by the weekend and then post if it works.

I can't get the heated screen button to work as it doesn't latch. I can turn the rear screen on by holding button in but upon release it doesn't work.

If I can find a toggle relay I may be able to do it, unsure if it will illuminate the light though. So I have left that on the recirc button for now.

 

[GrahamS]

As always I still think this car would be seriously awesome if you converted all the wiring and engine management to ph2. Think of the climate control!!!

 

[DannyR]

Ive got no air con so unneeded [emoji13][emoji13]

 

[Timmsy]

So I've tinkered a bit this afternoon. I have found the relay I need so will have that by the weekend and then post if it works.

I can't get the heated screen button to work as it doesn't latch. I can turn the rear screen on by holding button in but upon release it doesn't work.

If I can find a toggle relay I may be able to do it, unsure if it will illuminate the light though. So I have left that on the recirc button for now.

Sounds good, hopefully the relays will do the job on both. Where are they located? Within the loom or in fuse box? Could just Google the current relay models and see what comes up.

As always I still think this car would be seriously awesome if you converted all the wiring and engine management to ph2. Think of the climate control!!!

Hmmmm if you fancy giving a helping hand i'd be all up for swapping it over If I can get the parts. Is it possible to keep ph1 engine loom though or does it mean going over to fly by wire TB?

 

[GrahamS]

@Timmsy I'd give you a hand mate, of course! I have to say I'm not sure how much of the engine loom you'd be able to keep but I'm pretty sure you would have to go FBW. It would need to be a new ECU/UCH kit. My only question would be if the headlight plugs were the same. I'm sure they could be swapped though.

 

[DannyR]

There are two relays controlling the hazards. A relay in the relay box and the hazard button is also a relay on the ph1. So I have a relay coming to replace the button as such.

I have a toggle relay at work which may get the heated screen button working too.

 

[BoatNonce]

I'm all over this.

It needs a lot of toggle relay magic!

To light the rear heated window button, I'd imagine you could just take a 12v feed from the relay itself, run it to the LED and earth it? So when the relay powers up the window, it also powers the LED?

The recirc I hope is just a job of swapping the wire in. My flap motor's dead so I can't test this easily.

The hazard switch is a relay itself? I was thinking it was two momentary switches (one for lock and one for unlock), which would be rather complex to work out as each push of the button would have to be a momentary (you can't just leave the power on all the time as it would enable/disable RAID all the time as it's the same as holding the button down) signal fed through the lock and unlock circuits alternately. Perhaps with two opposing latching relays with the power feed from the switch both operating the relays and being alternately cut by them. If it's not a pair of switches then I've gone to way too much trouble to work that s**t out. Then there's the 'doors locked' LED. I can't remember if the Ph1 switch has a light.

Climate is a big job and I'm fairly sure it's not possible with cable throttle. Fairly sure it also requires either a new ECU or UCH, more likely the latter.

As an aside, does anyone else's AC turn off if you turn the fan right up to 4?

 

[DannyR]

I'm all over this.

It needs a lot of toggle relay magic!

To light the rear heated window button, I'd imagine you could just take a 12v feed from the relay itself, run it to the LED and earth it? So when the relay powers up the window, it also powers the LED?

The recirc I hope is just a job of swapping the wire in. My flap motor's dead so I can't test this easily.

The hazard switch is a relay itself? I was thinking it was two momentary switches (one for lock and one for unlock), which would be rather complex to work out as each push of the button would have to be a momentary (you can't just leave the power on all the time as it would enable/disable RAID all the time as it's the same as holding the button down) signal fed through the lock and unlock circuits alternately. Perhaps with two opposing latching relays with the power feed from the switch both operating the relays and being alternately cut by them. If it's not a pair of switches then I've gone to way too much trouble to work that s**t out. Then there's the 'doors locked' LED. I can't remember if the Ph1 switch has a light.

Climate is a big job and I'm fairly sure it's not possible with cable throttle. Fairly sure it also requires either a new ECU or UCH, more likely the latter.

As an aside, does anyone else's AC turn off if you turn the fan right up to 4?

Good idea on the illumination, but I think it actually lights up on the dash if it's turned on? Which isn't going to be possible on the Ph1, will just take a feed off the radio for illumination when lights are on.

I can't seem to get my heater controls to light up and I'm sure I had this problem last time too..

Need to find the recirc wires, if any one has a wiring diagram @dmallet I'm sure you do through clip.

The Ph1 has a separate button for each lock and unlock and then a resting position. So it's going to be hard on one button, unless you can some how get it to toggle again. First press unlocks, then it doesn't latch as button isn't held, second unlocks. Unsure if there is such a thing

 

[BoatNonce]

Oh, I thought you meant an indicator light on the rear heated window. If you're just illuminating it then that's easy.

Heater controls are an absolute barsteward. Terrible contacts, pissy little bulbs, and you have to rip the panel out to change/fix the sodding things.

For the door locks, that's what I thought. I think my idea will work. Just a bit strange having the power from the button both doing the toggling AND being toggled to two seperate outputs. The only problem is if one relay doesn't actuate for whatever reason when you press the button - then they jump back in sync and you're trying to lock AND unlock at the same time lol.

 

[Timmsy]

@Timmsy I'd give you a hand mate, of course! I have to say I'm not sure how much of the engine loom you'd be able to keep but I'm pretty sure you would have to go FBW. It would need to be a new ECU/UCH kit. My only question would be if the headlight plugs were the same. I'm sure they could be swapped though.

Not sure I really want FBW though, maybe once all the dash is done and if the engine goes bang i'll swap it all for newer stuff.

Millsy is helping with the dash conversion but your more than welcome to come lend a hand to help us both out with wiring

 

[DannyR]

@GrahamS, I've seen you have internal wiring diagrams in a Dropbox account for a previous thread. Could I have access to these please!

 

[DannyR]

Hazards are working on the Ph2 button [emoji3] need to write up how I've done it and what parts to use. £11 quids worth of bits.

 

[Timmsy]

Awesome news knew it could be done! look forward to the details

Actually made my day! (yes my Friday has been that rubbish!)

 

[GrahamS]

FBW is a winners combination! You could probably sell your TB and pedal set up to actually make this conversion pay you then Promise I'm not trying to convince you this is the thing to do.
Whatever you do though it's going to be cool.

 

[DannyR]

FBW would need the whole loom and ECU/UCH changed, easier to buy a Ph2 and put a Ph1 front end on.

Plus FBW is terrible!

 

[DannyR]

Ph2 Hazard Button in Ph1 Wiring Instructions.

I take no responsibility for any damage you may cause to your self or your car, and hope that anyone doing this grasps some fairly basic understanding of car electrics.

Firstly you will need to order these two parts from CPC, Part numbers SW02627 and SW02631. This is a relay and relay holder.

Firstly you will need to cut the Orange/Pink, Purple and green wire from the Ph1 plug, cut these individually and not all at once.
You then need to strip about 10mm off of each wire, twist and fold back on itself so its a thicker contact for the screw terminal to grab. you will need to wire as below.

14 - Green
24 - Purple
34 - Orange/Pink

On the other side of the relay you will need to cut the Pink wire from the Ph1 plug and wire to pin 11, you will also need to link out pins 21 and 31 so 11, 21 and 31 are all together.

That's the easy bit done.

You now need to splice into the radio part of the loom, its the easiest and closest to the button.

On the Ph2 button you have three wires; Orange, Green and Black.

Pin A1 from the relay needs to connect to the Green wire, I used some cable to extend as my relay is being placed lower down the dash.
Pin A2 which will activate the coil needs to go to a Permanent 12v live, again I took this from the Radio cabling which is Red.
The Black wire from the switch needs to go to the Earth on the Radio which is the thickest black wire there, this can also be cut from the loom as its an individual feed from its own earth point.
We then only have the Orange wire left to the switch, this is connected to the Yellow wire from the radio, this then lights the button up when the ignition is turned on.

And there you have it! The only thing worth noting is that the hazard button WILL NOT flash as before when the hazards are active, for MOT reasons this is fine, as long as the two arrows are flashing green on the dash.

Ill get some more photos today as mine are terrible that I've used for reference.

 

[DannyR]

 

[Ex-User (19928)]

After doing it myself, I would have to say. Just buy a Ph2.

 

[DannyR]

Why? It's such an easy conversion, I was just trying to take a step up!

 

[Ex-User (19928)]

I didn't actually mean that in response to your post, that looks like a decent writeup of getting the hazards working the non-pikey way. I just mean in general it's a bit of a PITA.

 

[Timmsy]

Ph2 Hazard Button in Ph1 Wiring Instructions.

I take no responsibility for any damage you may cause to your self or your car, and hope that anyone doing this grasps some fairly basic understanding of car electrics.

Firstly you will need to order these two parts from CPC, Part numbers SW02627 and SW02631. This is a relay and relay holder.

Firstly you will need to cut the Orange/Pink, Purple and green wire from the Ph1 plug, cut these individually and not all at once.
You then need to strip about 10mm off of each wire, twist and fold back on itself so its a thicker contact for the screw terminal to grab. you will need to wire as below.

14 - Green
24 - Purple
34 - Orange/Pink

On the other side of the relay you will need to cut the Pink wire from the Ph1 plug and wire to pin 11, you will also need to link out pins 21 and 31 so 11, 21 and 31 are all together.

That's the easy bit done.

You now need to splice into the radio part of the loom, its the easiest and closest to the button.

On the Ph2 button you have three wires; Orange, Green and Black.

Pin A1 from the relay needs to connect to the Green wire, I used some cable to extend as my relay is being placed lower down the dash.
Pin A2 which will activate the coil needs to go to a Permanent 12v live, again I took this from the Radio cabling which is Red.
The Black wire from the switch needs to go to the Earth on the Radio which is the thickest black wire there, this can also be cut from the loom as its an individual feed from its own earth point.
We then only have the Orange wire left to the switch, this is connected to the Yellow wire from the radio, this then lights the button up when the ignition is turned on.

And there you have it! The only thing worth noting is that the hazard button WILL NOT flash as before when the hazards are active, for MOT reasons this is fine, as long as the two arrows are flashing green on the dash.

Ill get some more photos today as mine are terrible that I've used for reference.

Awesome @DannyR thanks alot for that its very helpful. Glad it can be done

After doing it myself, I would have to say. Just buy a Ph2.

Ph's just look a bit soft on the outside.

 

[Timmsy]

@DannyR where the plugs for the door lock switch and rear window demister the same type or totally different?

 

[DannyR]

No the door lock one isn't, you'll need some small spade crimps or a bit of loom, luckily I had a bit of loom for all three buttons on that panel.

Window one is in the heating control unit on the Ph1 so again, I just had the loom but that's my unlock button

 

[Timmsy]

so the door lock/unlock becomes to lock and the window ones becomes the unlock.

 

[DannyR]

Lock is lock, rear window is unlock. It's in the guide Rob did.

 

[Timmsy]

Lock is lock, rear window is unlock. It's in the guide Rob did.

Of course it is, I obviously need the read it multiple times

 

[Timmsy]

@DannyR is the ph2 stalk radio controls the same fitment as the ph1?

 

[DannyR]

I don't believe so but I'm sure I saw it done somewhere?! I just used the Ph1 ones.

 

[Daniel]

@DannyR is the ph2 stalk radio controls the same fitment as the ph1?

No.

 

[Timmsy]

Cool fair enough. May even do away with them totally TBH. The ph1 item looks ugly and I don't even use it

 

[Timmsy]

So i got this done today... well not the wiring but the conversion :smile:

went really well... however...

2 issues really. First is one i've probably caused myself and the second one i cant for the life of me figure out why its doing it.

1. Dash dimmer switch no longer works (tried both working ph1 switch and ph2 items) While having the dash out I thought I'd do away with the stalk controls completely. So i've cut that out traced the cable right back to the red plug that goes into the clock/temp screen. Cut it right out all the way upto the red plug. Then cut the yellow plug from the standard HU all the way back too.
Not sure if somehow this as had an effect on the above?? Also do any of the base model ph's come without stalk controls?

2. Steering now feels mega heavy and wont return back to center without a helping hand.

A few things to add from the original guide that @Rob did.
There wasn't a lot of great pictures for how the steering cowling was held on so got this one

20150530_154205

Still need to do the hazard button as per above and the heater controls but waiting for the parts to turn up.

The ph2 dash really is more solid than the ph1 though so less rattles

 

[GrahamS]

Nice one matey! you got that done quickly. You'll probably find the steering wheel is rubbing on the cowling so won't go back to centre. Happened to me when I fitted a 197 wheel. I have a pov spec ph2 wheel you're welcome to to just try it out.

 

[Timmsy]

Nice one matey! you got that done quickly. You'll probably find the steering wheel is rubbing on the cowling so won't go back to centre. Happened to me when I fitted a 197 wheel. I have a pov spec ph2 wheel you're welcome to to just try it out.

Yeah started it at around half 1 and finished at about 5, didn't take long with two of us.I've got an OMP on so should be ok. Probably just wear down over time although doesn't look like it's catching. I may need to swap out the self tappers for counter sunk screws if that's the problem

Got a few finishing touches but it looks spot on

 

[Timmsy]

Relay and box turned up today, only ordered it Saturday morning :smile:

going to try and give it a go this week after work if the weather stays nice.

 

[Millsy]

Let me know you get on @Timmsy, you're welcome to use my drive again

 

[hsustyle]

Hi guys, wonder if someone can help.

I got my Ph1 with the Ph2 dash.
Some hits don't quite work or work strangely.

Hazard switch - works
Rear heater- unlocks doors
Lock doors - does nothing

I'm OK with that.

It's the below that is really bugging me.
Heater controls don't light up when lights are on.

It's all wired as per guide in image here however I don't not do the wiring so I don't even know that white wires are the right ones-

2018-07-17_12-01-21

Aircon button does nothing,doesnt light up, doesn't engage aircon pump. Relay and fuses are fine.

Recirculation button lights up and only then will aircon button light up if fan, speed is on speed 2 or above.. But aircon pump still won't engage ?

Is there a way to just ghetto wire a switch for the on /off of aircon? It's a black Ph1 and I'm sweating!!