Russ 16v's Cup Road Racer Blog.

[Christopher]

nutter

larger blower now too, right?

 

[ben_p]

yea, dont think it can make 500hp though but at £1400 a pop..i dont want to buy a 3rd one .. just yet LOL

 

[Christopher]

LOL

again...nutter

gotta pop round and see this sometime, bring ya Biff's tools too. lol

 

[BenR]

Thats why we are putting both the old one and the new one on right?

 

[ben_p]

oh yer.. still reversing the polarity on the new twin cycle dyson too?

 

[MarkM]

500 hp FTW!

Have you got longer ratios in your gearbox.

The first 2 gears (maybe 3 lol) in a standard box will be useless with that much power.

 

[ben_p]

nope there even shorter haha!

the diff, slicks and the setup were having on the leda's should help!

 

[ben_p]

the avanti has the bolt on crown wheel, final drives are only £600 each so can have a few to choose from on differnt tracks etc

 

[ben_p]

im running 60/40 ramp on the diff too, which can also be changed round

 

[BenR]

Cyclone filtration systems are old, he's just the first one to use it in a vacuum.

Vokes ltd and Donaldson Co. inc have produced cyclone filters since 1953 or there abouts.

 

[BenR]

im running 60/40 ramp on the diff too, which can also be changed round

not with ease lol.

 

[ben_p]

lol, dude one day your brain will be in a museum

 

[MarkM]

I would have thought with that much power traction will be the ONLY issue (obviously). With all that power in FWD I would have personally gone longer and reduced the number of gear changes you need around a track. You could probably just leave it in third and concentrate on not going off!

 

[ben_p]

im running 60/40 ramp on the diff too, which can also be changed round

not with ease lol.

pah, few bolts, pull bar, air hammer etc.. easy

 

[BenR]

you mean like those of mass murderers?

 

[ben_p]

I would have thought with that much power traction will be the ONLY issue (obviously). With all that power in FWD I would have personally gone longer and reduced the number of gear changes you need around a track. You could probably just leave it in third and concentrate on not going off.

still can if i want, but 0-100 in 9 seconds ftw to start

 

[ben_p]

you mean like those of mass murderers?

kinda,

 

[BenR]

then back down to zero in an additional 1.893572 seconds

 

[ben_p]

shhhhhh! thats a one off

 

[MarkM]

I would have thought with that much power traction will be the ONLY issue (obviously). With all that power in FWD I would have personally gone longer and reduced the number of gear changes you need around a track. You could probably just leave it in third and concentrate on not going off.

still can if i want, but 0-100 in 9 seconds ftw to start

0-100 in 15 seconds ftw.

1st - Spiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnnnnn - 2nd - sppppppppiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnnnnnnn - 3rd - ssssssssssppppppppppppppppiiiiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn - 4th - 10 to 100mph - 5th - 100 to 110mph and cross the line.

Theres your first standing 1/4 attempt.

 

[ben_p]

lol

 

[LeeP86]

hey ben
will prob be making a flat floor for my car something ud be interested in?
though knowing you ul want it mage out of cf instead od plywood like mine though you ould use it as a mould?

 

[Batman]

grip tape

 

[Turner]

I think grip tape looks and should do its job a treat

 

[Peperami]

hey ben
will prob be making a flat floor for my car something ud be interested in?
though knowing you ul want it mage out of cf instead od plywood like mine though you ould use it as a mould?

Have you thought about cooling if you make a flat floor?

Will trap loads of heat in.

 

[LeeP86]

yea i've thought of that
thanks anyway

 

[Iridium]

The Vee has a flat undertray - has little vents in it to direct air the gearbox and stuff.

Dan

 

[LeeP86]

is it completely flat like on a race car?

 

[Fred@BTM]

from behind the front subframe back yes it is on a V6 (well it has ducts and stuff)

 

[GarethM]

good progress ben

 

[ben_p]

bit of an update.

lastime the dash looked like this..

needed some more work LOL...so after lots of filling, sanding etc i gave the mould 2 coats of laquer to seal the filler etc so that it doesn't absorb the next layer of resin. after this had dried.... i took my new PVA release agent, put it in the spray gun and gave the mould a further two coats of this... looked well.... blue LOL

after the PVA had gone off it was time to layup the fiberglass and resin, i have now decided just to make the dash from fiberglass not carbon fibre! but i will be having the FG dash flocked.

that mould is only about 70% flat. there are still lots of bumps etc, which i will sand out on the new mould.....then the foam backed alacantara will take up the rest

heres a few pics with the first layer of FG

left this to dry overnight. i will update through the week.

loads more pics to come in about 40mins just waiting for photobucket.



oh and just for the record... fiberglass f**king sucks! f**king hate this part of the project

 

[JD]

good old photo bucket!

looks good ben, still need to get out and see it, once i get my wknds back!!

jamie

 

[Phoenix]

looks liek somethign out of aliens

 

[mas]

you abusin my old car ^

 

[ben_p]

ok so next up was to fit the redtop 30 battery and ally box in thr rear, i chose to mount on N/S rear to balance the small bit of weight from the driver, i lined up the ally box where i wanted it, this part of the boot floor is rasisd up in small sections so there was limited places to bolt it down as there is only two small lips on the box to drill. i managed two lind the rear lip up on a raise but for the front it just fell short, so i used two m8 nuts to space the gap between the box and the floor to prevent bending and damaging the lip.
i then pre drilled the 4 holes and used 4 10.9 grade steel m8 bolts, load spreding washers and nylock nuts to prevent the bolts from coming loose as the battery sits over the exhaust back box.

here is a few pics, (couldnt get the camera to focus on the nylock bolts under the car for some reason)

 

[mini-valver]

That's where mine is Ben, I'm using a standard battery though because of charging the redtop one's!

 

[ben_p]

now i wanted to fit the heater matrix back in. I had to make a quick repair where it was damaged when it was removed (on the air part, not the water system LOL) i then began to modife the sides of the box.. removing the tracks for the side vents, rear tracks, front footwell arms also needed to be cut down to accomidate the new shape of the dash! after all this was done i began to fit the heater... only to discover that i needed to remove the bloody dash brace! ahhhhhh! 30mins later and the brace was off! with the matrix in place i tightend up the two m6 bolts through the scuttle pannel in the bulkhead, this kept the matrix in position but after i had cut all the original tacks and arms off it was a little loose on the top... so i decided to use some spare screws - poilet the holes and then secure the upper part of the matrix in place

with the heater martix secure i re-fitted the dash brace nice and tight!

in the pic you can see where the air feeds have been chopped on the sides and bottom!

 

[ben_p]

That's where mine is Ben, I'm using a standard battery though because of charging the redtop one's!

the 30's are as good as stock! there on offer at rally design at the mo! £155 i think

 

[mini-valver]

Really? I thought they lost charge and stuff??

 

[Ex-User (19928)]

Jeeees.. Fitting speakers and heater matrix's.

And just as I was begining to think you were hardcore Ben.. Sissy.