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Toastfrenzy's Tin Top, some say...........



Front 3.5
Rear 2.5
Toe
Front 1-2mm out
Rear 1mm out.

Are you sure those figures are right? that's a very aggressive set up and it didn't look like those figures to me.

ah, from an old post....

now seen the newer post...just speaking to Dan earlier re exhaust\toe, noticed my rears are not very worn at all but since the 26th the outside 1\3rd has worn more than the inside 2\3rds so will be getting some pure Motorsport 1 degree shims. As for the front was thinking of making it 3.4 and getting it corner weighted at the same time before the next outing (2012).

You've caused no end of problems telling us how to carry speed....:hail:

Sent Dan a long shopping list of bits by email.......

I am impressed with the wear rate of the A048's, had from new and they have done 4 (definitely) possibly 5 track-days. Each time out covering 150-170 miles and maybe not driven as fast as on the 26th Nov but still good wear nevertheless. I'm going to get some new Soft A048's for the rear and keep the mediums for the front, the rears don't seem to get that hot so the soft compound should work a bit better, maybe.
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
Don't mix them.(tyres)

I get it now ,you were quoting an old post of ours lol,didn't think yours was running that.

We've done a lot of spring and set up changes since then.
 
Don't mix them.(tyres)

Ok, just thinking out loud...sounded reasonable...in my head that is....


Nice one, will get that ordered, Cheers

precisely my advice on the phone earlier :)

I'll get a temp gauge for the next trip out, see if I can borrow one first before I buy.

Aiming to go to Snetterton on the 21st Jan to do our ARDS test's....not booked yet trying to get a better price. MSV have offered the test in their cars, I'll take the Cup (track day on same day) they'll give us both test's and 1 instructor session each for £600....written and driving test is £250 each. For another £100 get a bit more out of the day.
 
  172 Race Car
works really well and very easy to fit. the big red switches with cable pull most people use tend to wear out
 
  172 Race Car
We started with a 20. then had a 25 and now use a 30 (but we run electric pas)

25 will be fine mate. remember you need to retain headlights and hot start at pitstops. Dont get to obssesed with saving weight. Reliability is more important imo
 
then u just need some cable and a junction box.

Do you mean the a new juction box that will go where the orignal battery went, connecting feed from new "in car" battery to the car +ve feeds

Just remember,as Jay say's,reliability is the key with everything,and I mean everything.

Yeh, get the feeling a DNF due to a simple battery fail a big waste of everyones time or other equally avoidable "I'll save a pound here" bodge... Or as in the F1 world at the weekend not waiting for a rear wheel nut to be put on....

Ordered an Odessey 25 for £92 inc shipping and a alloy Odessey 25 cage for £20 inc shipping of eBay...all new.
 
Well, been buying stuff again,

This weeks deliveries included
A fire extinguisher, with one 6 foot and one 12 foot manual release cables
4 meters of +ve battery cable
175 amp mega fuse
and a mega fuse holder....

Extinguisher.jpg


still got the Extreme Racing 25 battery, battery terminal and connections to sort.

Hoping to get a good quote tomorrow, 15 Dec, for spraying the inside of the cup...as can't really do any fitting\work until the inside paint has been finished off. Means I'll have to take seats, mounts and dash back out. Though I would have to have got them out to fit extinguisher, relocate battery and fit engine cut off switch anyway.

I've also been busy locating an "heat exchanger" to cool the engine oil, took ages but found out that a few Renaults share the same oil filter\dimensions OD76mm and depth 50mm (with a non return valve inside??)and so with this info finding a suitable donut oil cooler, sorry heat exchanger was relatively straight forward. Sourced the M20 extension to the bit the filter screws onto also. Dan from 519 has given me the good advice on how\where to plumb it into the coolant system. Just have to confirm with the seller the actual condition of the unit, eBay, before I buy.

Got a good estimate from Tony from ACW Motorsport plastics to replace the four side windows, just going with flat Lexan Margard for front plus 1 slider for drivers side and flat Lexan for rear, choosing not to bond in the rear but using his damming tape and stainless bolts\nyloc nuts....it's a race\track car not a fashion accessory(cheaper too). Also getting pop out vents in the rear quarters. Sam won't notice until she goes for the window switch, that won't be there....

Going to see if it's easier for the sprayer(if his quote is low enough) to remove the windows rather than mask etc round them, and then replace with polycarbs. Rear also if I can get that from p4p in time, or just leave the window out.

What's involved in removing the rear quarters and rear screen, easy enough??

Sure there was something else that was burning a hole in my pocket....
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
It cost me £100 to have all the glass removed and the plastic stuff fitted in it's place.

Door glass is a doddle to get out but front screen, rear screen and rear quarters are bonded in so not as easy to get out. You can do it yourself with a stanley knife but for the cost involved I'd just pay tbh.
 
It cost me £100 to have all the glass removed and the plastic stuff fitted in it's place.

Door glass is a doddle to get out but front screen, rear screen and rear quarters are bonded in so not as easy to get out. You can do it yourself with a stanley knife but for the cost involved I'd just pay tbh.

Just met with the sprayer and he said that window fitters use a cheese cutter type thing, poke it through and pull along...window out\off in minutes. Obviously that's used on broken windows or I'll need two people, darn it mechanic #1 is at school....

Also said he'll charge £30 p\h to do inside of Cup and that the paint\materials won't be that much. So if it takes 10hrs (which I hope not) £300 job done. Should be less as I said all one colour\ not to bothered about showroom finish etc. See what his quote will be later tonight.
 
Did a bit of work on the Cup this last weekend (new years eve\day). Bought 3 cans of Upol Acid etch primer, stripped and rubbed down the inside of the Cup, wiped it all down with a degreaser and then sprayed most of it. Now realised I forgot the boot lid as it was up most of the time....

02012012468.jpg


Harry helped with the rubbing down, wanted to help with the spraying until he saw me after..did it with the car outside, me inside the car, doors shut, boot open spray dust every where.

02012012469.jpg



Must say found it easy to spray, no runs or drips even. Though got fed up whilst taping\masking up and will have a bit of dust\ over-spray to clean up I should think. Will be getting 5-6 cans of top coat as the primer is a bit thin on the drivers floor. I'll have 1 or 1 1/2 cans left over for touch up\repair later on down the line.

With 1 can left and just the floor to do....
02012012470.jpg


Total cost of the spray job will be 3 cans of Upol acid etch @ £12 each, £36
Say 6 cans of top coat £7 each £42
masking tape 25mm x 50 metre roll 99p
£79 all in (did already have the plastic sheeting and degreaser)
and my time FOC, not too long really. 3-4 hours to strip and tie back, 2-3 hours to tape and mask, 2-3 hours to rub\hoover and degrease and 1 hour to spray. Bit like a Sunday\Christmas roast 5 hours to prepare and all gone in 20 mins once plated up....

With the money I saved (250-300) by doing it myself bought 4 Polycarb windows(Tony @ ACW motor sports with 10% discount) which are coming next week, all four for £198 inc sliders and rear pop out vents, didn't go for Margard fronts for an extra £60. Will just buy another set of fronts for £60 should the need arise. Might just buy the rear Screen too later this week from P4P.
 
Well, all the best laid plans and all that, nice day out so thought I'd crack on with spraying the inside with the top coat. Got as far as one press of the spray nozzle and this happened......

06012012473.jpg


What's going on here? Used Upol acid 8 etch primer says on the tin no need for undercoat and primer...
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
Before you ask,I haven't got a clue.

Have you contacted Jay yet,I did tell him you might be in need of his assistance.
 
Sent Jay a pm earlier re wiring...paint's gone like the way Hammerite dries, not the finish I was hoping for....I'll have to ring my mate who was going to do it then I said no...hmmmmm, he'll welcome the call no doubt.
 
Actually looking at the pictures I had a white heater in the car, bit of moisture on the inside of the roof drying out before I sprayed the primer........might have stumbled on the solution with out knowing wtf I'm doing.
 
Were the tins cold? I had this with a spray can, at room temp went on fine but after it'd been in the garage at <10C it sprayed like that.

No, but the car was so other way round, same results nevertheless.

Also a call back from Auto-paints, who I bought the paint from said too cold for sure, recommend 20 degrees minimum. Nice blokes, said that I could even swap out their fancy fan spay nozzle for the one of the Upol acid 8 cans to do the cage in, won't get so much over spray\waste (they also said the Upol nozzle is rubbish really). Upol nozzle gives 5 cm circle, the fan spread was nearly 20- 25cm in width I noticed with my quick go earlier. Caught me out a bit as wasn't expecting such a big spread.

All's not lost though, as I live on a farm estate (in and old workers cottage that the farmer sold off when times were hard...) there are a few unit's, half a mile away, that the farmer rents out to locals and one of them has .... a spray booth......said he'll let me use it tomorrow morn. So the car's off the trailer and parked up in his unit waiting to go in, 30 mins on high and it'll be done!!

He also said the cold metal wouldn't of helped. He won't be around but has given some tips, just going to have to suck it and see me thinks, what's the worst that can happen......it'll look sh1t....hmmmm. Or phucking amazing, time for a poll?
 
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  182cup & 172 racecar
By the time you star putting all the bit's and bob's back in,you don't really notice that it's not a pro job.
Don't be hard on yourself,I was and expected a pukka job,but it ended up not too bad so was happy with that.
 
Had to put off spraying the car for a while this morning, had to round up one of our stable cats Ben, brother to Bill, Ben has been in the stables asleep for the last few days. Picked him up this morning and he was wet through, saliva every where and he's not been eating too....Put him down to get the cat box, went back to find he'd vanished so what with Harry and Scarlett crying that he's going to die, tramping across yonder fields to their hide outs and £50 later to find he'll live through his mouth ulcer the spraying turned out good.

In the end, on my own, couldn't push the car over the ramp\lip to the spray booth so used a space heater to heat things up a bit...

07012012481.jpg



Found out that 6 400ml cans just wasn't enough so ordered some more, the colour looks good though the flash shows up the light sprayed areas and the paint went on fine no orange peel effect, thanks all for all the advice and help.

07012012483.jpg
 
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Greeny.

ClioSport Club Member
  440i + 182
When I did mine in the old car I ended up using a lot more than I thought I would, its surprising how much you need to do a good job.
 


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