clio_cup
ClioSport Club Member
172 Cup
Not sure it’s an exact copy of the Renault one but looks very close to me.
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My cheap(ish) 172 Cup
- Thread starter ex-Chinese Dave
- Start date
ex-Chinese Dave
ClioSport Club Member
172 Cup
ex-Chinese Dave
ClioSport Club Member
172 Cup
Today was carbon canister day… yay!
I got the car jacked up and removed the front arch liner. Note on the photos the extra screws that were put in by someone in the past even though the two bungs would hold it in position really well. Also, you can see the wear on that rubber grommet in the arch…that’s what 23 years does to a car!
The canister itself came out relatively easy and the return pipe from the fuel tank unclipped without any hassle. Side-by-side, you can see how the design of the canister has changed over the years. I’m tempted to put the original one on eBay just to get a little money back, and going off some of the old parts I’ve sold in the past I wouldn’t be surprised if someone buys it. So, with the new one fitted and all the connections refitted I started the car and let it run for a few minutes. It ran fine and upon switching it off there wasn’t that loud clicking from the fuel tank. I know that these canisters tend to click from the front when they are done but when I refitted the loose solenoid to the original canister a few weeks ago, the clicking I heard was coming from the fuel tank.
I couldn’t find a guide on CS for doing the canister so I’ll put a few photos here just in case anyone decides to fit their own and has any issues. The only problem I would see if somebody was fitting one would be that the front bolt of the three that holds the canister to the car may be a little tight to get off. Mine was tight but it was not really any hassle. The biggest hassle is fitting the little screws underneath the bumper that hold the arch liner in place. I’ve also got a manual for the car so I’ll put a picture of what the instructions are for changing the canister.
I got the car jacked up and removed the front arch liner. Note on the photos the extra screws that were put in by someone in the past even though the two bungs would hold it in position really well. Also, you can see the wear on that rubber grommet in the arch…that’s what 23 years does to a car!
The canister itself came out relatively easy and the return pipe from the fuel tank unclipped without any hassle. Side-by-side, you can see how the design of the canister has changed over the years. I’m tempted to put the original one on eBay just to get a little money back, and going off some of the old parts I’ve sold in the past I wouldn’t be surprised if someone buys it. So, with the new one fitted and all the connections refitted I started the car and let it run for a few minutes. It ran fine and upon switching it off there wasn’t that loud clicking from the fuel tank. I know that these canisters tend to click from the front when they are done but when I refitted the loose solenoid to the original canister a few weeks ago, the clicking I heard was coming from the fuel tank.
I couldn’t find a guide on CS for doing the canister so I’ll put a few photos here just in case anyone decides to fit their own and has any issues. The only problem I would see if somebody was fitting one would be that the front bolt of the three that holds the canister to the car may be a little tight to get off. Mine was tight but it was not really any hassle. The biggest hassle is fitting the little screws underneath the bumper that hold the arch liner in place. I’ve also got a manual for the car so I’ll put a picture of what the instructions are for changing the canister.
Attachments
TheBandit
ClioSport Club Member
What in the pikey f**k has gone on here
ex-Chinese Dave
ClioSport Club Member
172 Cup
Exactly! The arch liner on the other side also has a screw in a strange position. I have a feeling that whoever refitted the arch liners had worn out bungs and they weren’t confident they were going to hold the liner in place.
I’m convinced that in the past this car was used for something and then had almost everything re-fitted. I’ve no idea whether it went on track but everything I found with this car since owning it suggests that someone was tinkering with it and they didn’t really care about doing things right.
ex-Chinese Dave
ClioSport Club Member
172 Cup
Another job crossed off my ever evolving list…
I fitted the fuse box that I bought from a member on here. I had the original fuse box off in the past and repaired it but it was noted that a piece was actually missing. Upon closer inspection the piece hadn’t broken off but had been removed with a hacksaw. More evidence of a numpty working on this car in the past!
I had to remove the battery to get the old fuse box out and I noticed that one of the nuts was seized which holds the bar for the ECU holder. There was no chance that was coming off but luckily enough I could get the battery past it. There’s also another securing point for the air box which is missing some thread and the same for the actual fuse box itself. I’m not OCD but things like this really irritate me. The rounded nut will take a bit of effort to get out and the other two threads that have broken off will need to be replaced, one of them I’m sure we’ll have to be welded. There’s not a chance I’m stripping everything down to weld the nut on that I can do without.
Everything was put back together and I tried all the electrics in the car and then started it. Everything seems to be fine so I’m hoping that when I drive it next time nothing will go wrong. I’m not holding my breath as moving 20 plus years wiring is always a risky business!
There’s still a few jobs that I want to do on the car before I reach a point when I’m only repairing stuff that starts to break. One of them is a little bubbling over the rear wheel arches, exactly the same both sides. It’s not the usual rear quarter corrosion as I have inspected that and also protected it all. This seems to have been caused by the clip that holds the rear bumper to the arch itself. The clip seems to be part of the bumper are made of plastic, but I think over the years it’s rubbed some of the paint off the inside edge of the arch. I had a body shop look at it and they said that if you don’t want to repaint the whole panel the best thing to do is to just leave it but clean and treat the wing from the inside and protect it from the bumper clip rubbing against it. This seems to be the most sensible option because if I was going to have this tiny area repainted it starts to move into the territory of getting the whole car done. The outside of the rear wings, in front of the rear wheel, is peppered with tiny stone chips so it would be pointless painting a tiny area and leaving the rest. The paintwork on this car is original and unless it was having a nut and bolt restoration, which won’t be happening unless I win the lottery, I don’t see the point at this time.
I fitted the fuse box that I bought from a member on here. I had the original fuse box off in the past and repaired it but it was noted that a piece was actually missing. Upon closer inspection the piece hadn’t broken off but had been removed with a hacksaw. More evidence of a numpty working on this car in the past!
I had to remove the battery to get the old fuse box out and I noticed that one of the nuts was seized which holds the bar for the ECU holder. There was no chance that was coming off but luckily enough I could get the battery past it. There’s also another securing point for the air box which is missing some thread and the same for the actual fuse box itself. I’m not OCD but things like this really irritate me. The rounded nut will take a bit of effort to get out and the other two threads that have broken off will need to be replaced, one of them I’m sure we’ll have to be welded. There’s not a chance I’m stripping everything down to weld the nut on that I can do without.
Everything was put back together and I tried all the electrics in the car and then started it. Everything seems to be fine so I’m hoping that when I drive it next time nothing will go wrong. I’m not holding my breath as moving 20 plus years wiring is always a risky business!
There’s still a few jobs that I want to do on the car before I reach a point when I’m only repairing stuff that starts to break. One of them is a little bubbling over the rear wheel arches, exactly the same both sides. It’s not the usual rear quarter corrosion as I have inspected that and also protected it all. This seems to have been caused by the clip that holds the rear bumper to the arch itself. The clip seems to be part of the bumper are made of plastic, but I think over the years it’s rubbed some of the paint off the inside edge of the arch. I had a body shop look at it and they said that if you don’t want to repaint the whole panel the best thing to do is to just leave it but clean and treat the wing from the inside and protect it from the bumper clip rubbing against it. This seems to be the most sensible option because if I was going to have this tiny area repainted it starts to move into the territory of getting the whole car done. The outside of the rear wings, in front of the rear wheel, is peppered with tiny stone chips so it would be pointless painting a tiny area and leaving the rest. The paintwork on this car is original and unless it was having a nut and bolt restoration, which won’t be happening unless I win the lottery, I don’t see the point at this time.
