Daily dci

Updates.

Wash day for both Dci's. Orange was pretty clean but blue van was in a state so well overdue.

Washy.

Blue van also had interior clean as well.

Also treated the blue dci to a set of new Alpine speakers for the front to replace the crackly 187k originals. Simple plug and play install using the adaptor plugs.

£25 new on Amazon prime.

Straight in no mods.

Super easy to fit, 7 mins and done. No rattly cone anymore so its a win. Have a few longer trips to do over next few weeks so its a nice improvement.

Thanks for reading!!

Brigsy said:

Updates.

Wash day for both Dci's. Orange was pretty clean but blue van was in a state so well overdue.

Washy.View attachment 1697558View attachment 1697559

Blue van also had interior clean as well.

Also treated the blue dci to a set of new Alpine speakers for the front to replace the crackly 187k originals. Simple plug and play install using the adaptor plugs.

£25 new on Amazon prime.
View attachment 1697560
View attachment 1697561Straight in no mods.View attachment 1697562

Super easy to fit, 7 mins and done. No rattly cone anymore so its a win. Have a few longer trips to do over next few weeks so its a nice improvement.

Thanks for reading!!

Click to expand...

Cracking little speakers those alpines 👌

Updates.

Blue dci plodding on as usual racking up the miles. Orange dci has not moved for ages due to recent rush to get cars ready for CSF and a bit of driveway congestion.

Anyway took it for a run out on Wed night. Fired up as willing as ever. Started driving and noted brake pedal needed 50% travel to stop, however was solid enough. Assumed shoes needed adjusting as handbrake was quite high. However noticed when pulling away that the handbrake only seemed to be pulling on os rear wheel.

More investigation was required, so today i pulled rear drums off to have a look. Started on offside, noted rear cylinder leaking, not a good start. Went to nearside and once drum was removed, issue was obvious as shoe lining had come off on the trailing shoe. The lining was on top of the cylinder, suprised it had not caused carnage.

Assume position.


Shoe lining has left the chat.

Everything rusty as fcuk but solid enough. Removed the shoes and cylinders and give the drum backing plates a wire brush then a coat of vht black to tidy them up. Had to reflare the brake pipe and fit a new union as seized on the pipe. Its a kunifer pipe i fitted several years ago so dead easy to work with.

Quick paint and pipe flared.


Drums were looking terrible with rust and paint mix. Knotted wheel on the grinder to derust and a quick coat of VHT black.

Not perfect but improved.


Quick run down the motorfactors and a new set of shoes/cylinders for £33 and new pins to hold the shoes on. The old ones were bent as that thin with rust!

Very rusty.

Freed off the adjusters and built the shoes up so they drop in place to avoid battling the springs in situ.

New shoes and cylinder fitted.


Adjusted shoes until the drum was a tight fit then fitted and torqued the hub nut to 175nm. Dug out the eezibleed and a ltr of fresh typ200 brake fluid i had in stock.

Eezibleed makes easy work.


Bleeds up easy and no leaks. Brake pedal has minimal travel and solid, handbrake 4 clicks, thats good enough for me.

Test run and all confirmed good, brakes feel excellent.

Tesco run.


A bit more work than anticipated but only 3 hours to sort. Thanks for reading!!

That would've taken me all bloody day to sort😂 Great work 👍

MLB said:

That would've taken me all bloody day to sort😂 Great work 👍

Click to expand...

Me too

Not the worst job to do. The springs on the rear shoes are a pain in the arse though

Checked fluids on blue dci yesterday. Went to shut bonnet and it just bounced instead of latching. The catch had stuck open even though its well greased/opened fairly often.

Took it out and the pivot was tight with rust. Freed it off with plusgas and pivot is loose/free now. Cleaned up and silicone grease applied. Old car life!!

Updates.

Blue dci was getting super knocky on the front suspension, and i had the bits in stock. Had a spare day yesterday so cracked on.

After checking it over a while back it needed n/s track rod end, top mounts both sides as originals on 190k, o/s driveshaft due to bearing on wet boot weeping oil and outer boot on last legs.

Assume position.

Started well, track rod end changed in 20 mins. Drained gear oil and offered up good used n/s driveshaft i had in stock expecting it to be plug and play.

This should have been a simple fit and move on, but the fcuking outer cv was different on the splines for whatever reason and wouldnt fit my hub. So with options limited - finding a new shaft locally on a sat was not happening, refitting old shaft to do it in a couple of weeks was more work - i opted to build a good shaft up out of the pair.

I removed the outer cv off new shaft, fitted the old outer cv which was luckily still good, used the good cv boot and fresh cv grease and cv boot clip.

No pics of this as i was up to my eyes in cv grease and pissed off. It all went together smoothly luckily and filled up with fresh Elf nfx gear oil.

With this done i moved onto the top mounts. New snr mounts combined with the original retaining cap. Bumpstop was shot on o/s so replaced that for a sachs one.

Old and cracked.

New and shiney.

All refitted and torqued to spec. With it sat on all 4 wheels again i took it out for a test run to check the os driveshaft was ok. Luckily all good so cracked on with the other bits.

Time for oil change as due. Vac pump to get the oil out, fresh Valvoline synthpower 5/40 and purflux filter.

Vac pump makes life easy.


Used my new sealey funnel to fill up. It clips in the same as oil cap and makes life very easy when filling up with the large funnel on top.

Nice bit of kit.


Also changed diesel filter for new delphi. I was reluctant to touch this after the starting issues it had a while back but went for it as it was due. Primed it up and no issues started right up.

After this was done i adjusted the rear drum brakes, de lipped the drums and took shoes up. Followed by a quick wash as well overdue.

Clean.

Drives great and no more knocking, noticeable difference, it had got a bit sloppy but you get used to it with daily driving. Gearchange seems better with fresh oil, first time ive used nfx, seems good. Not bad for half a days work in total.

Geo needs doing ill see if i can get my mate to do it this week. Should be ok for its mot next month.

Thanks for reading!!

Sports are 23 spline shaft

Non sport are 21 spline

Krarl said:

Sports are 23 spline shaft

Non sport are 21 spline

Click to expand...

I actually think the new shaft was sport, got it off ebay and seller has had my eyes out. Id check the cv but ive launched it into the wheelie bin in rage.

Length seemed ok with old outer cv on so sent it, had 10mm so plunge when fitted.

Aye be sound that, send it

I think the shafts are pretty much the same but the CVs on the sports make up for the bit of extra length

I've now changed both top mounts and it certainly removes a lot of background clonking, and mine had only done 50k, so it must a noticeable difference on your 190K daily. Good job done

vtec-e said:

I've now changed both top mounts and it certainly removes a lot of background clonking, and mine had only done 50k, so it must a noticeable difference on your 190K daily. Good job done

Click to expand...

Cheers mate. Massive difference with new top mounts on, old ones were well past their best.

Updates

Had toe set on the blue dci a couple of weeks ago. Toe set almost neutral as i dont need every bit of turn in and want max mileage out of the tyres.

On the geo lift.

Noted inner arb bushes are well past their best so got them to do soon.

Apart from that its looking good for mot at the end of the month. Drives great again have been all over in it over last 2 weeks over a thousand miles, Blackpool, Newcastle a few times and various local running about.

Orange clio needed a wash, so it got a wash.

Still clean for 160k.


Used it a bit last week. Shopping run and the umbrella holder makes a good baguette holder.

Baguette in a baguette.

@Krarl tagged me in the classified add for the van shelf and rear interior panels for sale thankfully as they seem to be in demand and i was awol as at work so would have missed them.

Ive been keeping my eye out for some for the blue dci so snapped them up. Arrived promptly in a massive box from @callumjslade early this week.

All looks spot on.


Cracked on this morning and made a start fitting them to the blue dci. Ive never had the rear doorcards off this and was expecting quite a bit of rust on the inside of the sills but was pleasantly suprised. Minor corrosion both sides but nothing too bad at all, give it a coating of BH Hydrate 80 and BH cavity wax to finish.

Not the worst.


Hydrate 80.


BH Dynax UC


With that done on both sides i moved onto fitting the interior panels.

The interior panel fitting was straightforward enough. I knew i was missing a couple of bits of trim so had to improvise. The van has different plastic upper trims that go around the van panel/rear qtr window and i did not have these. Also did not have the front lower plastic trims and metal bulkhead so seatbelts would be exposed.

To keep it looking presentable i cut down the original rear plastics chopping the parcel shelf holder off. This leaves a gap which looks a bit crap as the car parcel shelf is higher than van so cant even scribe it tight to mate up with the van plastics.

Large gap visible on passenger side.


Id like the proper trims but id imagine they will be fairly hard to find now. To make it look better i cut an offcut of carpet and glued it to the back of the trim to cover the gap.

Looks tidy enough.


For the front i cut the part out of the doorcard to cover the exposed seatbelt and used some velcro to attatch the trim.

Looks ok without bulkhead.


The shelf is massive and fits decent. It can be folded back so full access to the boot area as above or layed flat down and lifts with boot open.




With this done i loaded all the crap i need in for work.

Hard hat, high viz, boots and other shite.


Its a much better place to be when your sat in the front.

V6 ENGINE UNDER THE COVER !? Absolutely not with the diesel rattle up front😆



Not driven it yet but will be interesting to see if it cuts noise. Ive also lost my rear speakers so might be a downgrade on tunes, will see.

Thanks for reading!!

I've got a pair of brand new non sport balljoints if you want em? Found them in the garage the other day long with a load of other shite like some cheapy rear wheel bearings

Krarl said:

I've got a pair of brand new non sport balljoints if you want em? Found them in the garage the other day long with a load of other shite like some cheapy rear wheel bearings

Click to expand...

Appreciated mate ill have them if going spare. Will come in handy 👌

Brigsy said:

Appreciated mate ill have them if going spare. Will come in handy 👌

Click to expand...

Aye drop me a message and I'll send em your way, no use to me mate👍🏻

Small update.

Van rear interior and shelf in the blue dci has made a decent improvement to road noise on motorway use. Its not exactly refined but any improvement is heading in the right direction.

Stereo setup sounds a little bit quieter on mid range with rear speakers removed but better in some respects as the rear qtr doorcards used to rattle like fcuk.

Picked up a set of 18" tyres in it the other day, expected it to be to the roof but fitted in well with shelf folded back and all my work gear in.

Tight.



Mot on Monday and it passed with no advisories.



Testers comments - "will get a few more years out of it yet"

Thanks for reading!!

Update.

Blue van failed to proceed today. It had not been used since last thursday and shuffled up and down the drive a couple of times. I was out today and the mrs went to use it, started as usual then stalled 5 seconds later and would not restart.

Instantly thought it was that air leak issue i had ages ago on fuel lines so pumped up the hand primer for diesel lines under the bonnet. Still no joy so i grabbed clip which had low fuel pressure logged, and tried cranking it to check fuel pressure which was 14bar when 250+ bar is requested and any less and injectors will not open.



At that point i grabbed the sniff and it reluctantly fired with a load of diesel knock and fuel pressure shot up with increased rpm.

Its not failed to start since and meets requested 250bar no problem on 200rpm crank but im sure an injector is on its last legs. Ill do a leakoff test this weekend and see whats going on. I have a couple of good injectors that i might try but they have been sat for ages so might be knacked now.

Im working in Sheffield a couple of days this week so the orange clio is on the commute. Filled up and good to go.

Thanks for reading!

Updates.

Orange clio been flying and have done 550 miles in it this week. 73mpg.

Dci life


Bit of diag on the blue clio today. Started off with a leakoff test. One of the leakoff pipes was on super tight and came off suddenly which made my arm snap the top of the dipstick off rescued the remains and it now has a screw in the top until the replacement turns up.

Anyway after that fuckup i put the leakoff pots on and fired it up. Started instantly typically.

Leakoff bottles on.


Within a couple of mins it was obvious injector 1 was a mile off.


At this point i took a sample of diesel from the fuel filter to see if the high pressure pump was self destructing. Looks ok for 192k, no filings.

Diesel sample.


I had a spare 65hp injector in the lockup from a running engine so shot round and grabbed it. As it had been stood for ages i was expecting it to be knackered as they tend to fail when sat dry, id had it bagged up so it was worth a shot and was not going to cost anything. Whipped injector 1 out which came out very easy to my suprise, wiggled it and it come straight out. Looks like its a non oem renault injector and the rest look to be the same, i think somebodys replaced them years ago.

Delphi aftermarket injector?


Stuck a new copper injector washer on and new injector in, retaining clamp and bolt torqued and hp pipe back on. Primed diesel pipework on hand pump and attempted startup. Started after 4 cranks and ran on all 4 cylinders sounding great.

With it running ok i put the leakoff bottles back on to see if it was any better. 2nd startup starts instantly.

Leakoff all very similar amounts.

Looks much better to me, all within 10%. Never going to be bang on at this mileage so close is good enough.

Took it for a test run/italian tune up to see if any fuel pressure faults would flag up. No issues and it seems to go better. Done 40 miles or so and it seems to be running great, starts instantly. Back in daily use this week.

Thanks for reading!!

Updates

Sheffield and back in the orange clio this morning. All going well until i went over a small pothole causing a loud bang. Open the bonnet to have a look and the top oil filled engine mount has s**t itself.

Boom and the oil pisses out.


Had this happen on the blue dci when i first got it and it makes a right knock if you go over a bump. Ive also replaced this mount years ago so itll be 2nd time fix. Luckily easy and cheap and can be driven until new mount arrives.

As i was back from site early managed to get a couple of bits done. I had a set of @plees brass shifter bushes in stock ready to fit so cracked on.

Assume position.


Before.

After.

The gear selection feels much better and shifts feel very positive. Great upgrade over stock and half hour to fit.

Give them both a quick wash. Blue clio had birdshit all over it and orange one was pitted with road muck.

Clean.


Coded in the C2l code for injector 1 on the blue clio as did not do it the other day. It was running great without coding, but as i have the gear to do it would be lazy not to. Took 5 mins with clip.



Blue dci has also not failed to start since injector replacement on cyl 1. Infact its never ran better and feels more torquey low down when driving. Also the diesel knock from cold has gone and the engine is a lot quieter on idle as i suspect the copper sealing washer for injector 1 was leaking. Back in daily service.

Thanks for reading!!

Updates.

Blue dci not missed a beat since injector replacement. Seems to go better too.

Replaced the knackered top engine mount on the orange dci through the week. Nice easy 20 min job.

Before

After

Seems like a little bit more vibration on idle but not driven it yet. Its a cheap mount so if its crap ill get another one.

Thanks for reading!!

Never knew that about the mounts!
Are the 1.2s oil filled too ?

Tez. said:

Never knew that about the mounts!
Are the 1.2s oil filled too ?

Click to expand...

Not sure mate ill be honest. Ive not worked on 1.2 before.

Updates.

Cheap engine mount on orange dci turned out to be horrendous for vibration so got a gates branded one. Fitted and business as usual.

Both had a well needed wash over xmas. Finished with a coat of BH touch on for a bit of easy winter protection.

Clean



Blue clio hasnt done many miles over the last month but approaching 196k. Its still starting fine and was running great until last week where it had a couple of intermittent startup/low idle for a few seconds for whatever reason with no eml.

I initially thought this was clogged egr as its been 40k/2years since replacement and its been a bit black smokey recently on full throttle. Pulled it out this morning for a clean, It did have a bit of s**t inside but not the worst and the metal pipe was clean. Also cleaned out the egr block and that was a bit coked up. Changed airfilter too as it had seen better days and done around 16thou.

Dirty d


Took it out for an italian tune up and it goes a bit better/less smokey. It did start up and idle loads better initially but did fire up and conk out once earlier for whatever reason but has been ok since. Ive checked cranking fuel pressure with clip and its making the required 230bar, and no faults or nothing looking out of the ordinary on live data.

Might pull sender out of tank for a look and check all fuel pipes for airleaks soon. Itll have to wait a bit as its got a full tank of diesel in currently.

Thanks for reading!!

Updates.

Orange clio is in for mot on Monday so give it a once over. All looked ok apart from front discs and pads. Still legal but had seen better days as been on since 2019/god knows how manu miles. Not expensive so stuck a set on, napa brand from local motorfactors.

Assume position

Clean it well. Knotty wheel on grinder on hubs and carriers

Neww

Old discs had seen better days on inside, outside looked ok. Joys of single pot calipers.

Also had another small job to do. The aux belt has been chirping/screeching since fitting when cold. Its a manual tensioner and its basically guess the tension if you dont have a seem gauge. Ive previously made a tool to pull the tensioner tight which is basically a bit of threaded bar with a hook and nut on one end and set it fcuking tight and was still not right. Too loose and it screeches. Too tight and the engine wont crank 😆

Workshop manual states hz required using mot. 1505

A while ago i seen mot.1505 for sale on ebay and it was cheap so bought it.

Expensive new but £40 is fair


Dug it out today to give it a go while the wheel was off as easy access to aux belt area. In basic terms is holding a small microphone 2-10mm away from the long length on aux and strumming it like a guitar string. First reading was 100hz which was quite far off suggested 223-245hz in the manual. I was unsure if it needed to go tigher or slacker at this point, so slackened it off to see which way reading would go and took a reading of 50hz so had to go tight. It turned out i had to really wind it up tight to get it in the range.

Slightly above range.


As pic above i set it slightly above range to accomodate for when tensioner nipped up. Checked again when locked/tooling removed and it was 232hz.

Fired it up and it sounded sweet as a nut, no aux screeching or dieselly pully vibrating horrible noises.

Hopefully a nice clean ticket for it on Monday. Will see!

Thanks for reading!!

I really like that you know when to make a car brand new underneath and when not to Brigsy.

Robbie Corbett said:

I really like that you know when to make a car brand new underneath and when not to Brigsy.

Click to expand...

No need for bling underside on the dci😆. Winter driving just fooks it up.

Clean mot pass on the orange dci yesterday. Another cheap year of motoring.

Updates

Washer jet pump packed in on the blue dci. Well i say packed in, i used the rear wash/wipe and it squirted the rear window and then refused to do the front just rear regardless of selection. Ive had this issue before and usually sorts itself out flicking between front and rear a few times but no joy, so had to change the pump. Had one in stock from a breaker.

The cold weather royally fcuks my hands up nowadays and 0deg temps today so had to be a fast repair, no pissing about removing scuttle, wipers etc.

Work smart


Lifted corner of scuttle, plugged new motor in to test. Verified making noise so sharp pull on the old pump to remove, swap pipes over fast and new pump in/fit fastener to scuttle and refit rubber seal. Minimal screenwash loss as working fast, easy 15min fix.

New pump works fine albeit being a cheapy aftermarket one thats been in the garage for ages. The pump i removed was also aftermarket cheapo so not the first one its had.

Give it a quick snowfoam and rinse as headlamps barely done anything due to road muck.

Snowing


Autofoam doing the biz


Let the BH Autofoam dwell a bit and could see the muck coming off. Came up quite clean for 15 mins work, thatll do until temps pick up.

Thanks for reading!!

Must be washer pump killing season.

Did one on my dad's car yesterday.

JamesBryan said:

Must be washer pump killing season.

Did one on my dad's car yesterday.

Click to expand...

Can guarantee pump will fail when you need it most!

Updates.

Oil change for blue dci as it had done 7k since last one and currently on 196k. Weather mild enough today so cracked on. Vac pump to suck oil out via dipstick hole, filter change and 4.6ltrs of fresh 5/40 valvoline synthpower.

Vac pump ftw.


Next job was rear shock change. I had changed them previously at around 120ish thousand miles, but back end was getting a little bit lively again so figured it was time. Autodoc to the rescue with trw rear shocks for under £50.

Assume position


I was expecting easy job or the bolts to snap and it be a bad day..the bolts flew out with impact as id copperslipped them last time so it was super easy..didnt even take wheels off literally ten mins a side. Dropped it off jack and torqued lower shock bolts in drive position to 105nm.

Nice easy work at an hr to complete both jobs.

Next step was can clip diag. Its done the low rpm thing on start for a few secs a couple of times recently and wanted to see if any faults were pending or stored.

Usual glow plugs


As seen above nothing apart from the glowplug fault which has been logged for around 90thou which does nothing. Datalogged fuel pressure on startup and typically did not do it so nothing to see, fuel pressure flys up to 230bar so assume hp pump/injectors not too bad atm.

Checking live data.


I could do with doing another leakoff test and still need to pull the sender out but have filled the tank again so itll have to wait. Not too concerned, keep sending it.

Thanks for reading!!

Updates

Xenon upgrade done on the blue dci. I got them of @Krarl ages ago and finally got round to fitting them.

They needed a few repairs so sorted the brackets with plastic welding kit and high strength epoxy.

Repairs
Popped front off one after white clip replacement went wrong. Gas mark 2 for 10 mins gets the cover off easy without it going all melty.

Cooking


Stuck a set of china's finest D2s 6000k bulbs and osram 6000k led sidelights in and fitted the lights last Sunday.

Fitted


Wetsanded and polished with
V32/V38. Coated with ceracote trim wipe.

Upgrades


Bright as fook. Massive upgrade over the standard lights which had seen better days with white clip bust on drivers side so light was pointing at the deck. Passenger dipped beam is unreal, as i cleaned the dome and inside of lense whilst stripped. Drivers is a little hazy as the inside of lense needs cleaning, if i can be arsed ill pop the lense off to do it at some point.

Much better.


Went in the boot and grabbed some of my work tools out to notice they were wet and bit of mould formed..not been in the bag for a few months so was unaware of any leaks. Looked in spare wheel well and full of water, its been splashing up into the area where my bag was sat.

Swimming pool.


It was pretty obvious that it was leaking from both bungs next to rear lights as could see a trail of water. I sealed them up years ago but used bog standard silicone and it had failed. Ive tigersealed the bungs in place now and emptied the swimming pool. The rear carpet has had a good wet vac and clean, this has also stopped the constant steamy rear window.

Its also done the low idle thing a couple of times again so needs a bit of diagnostics. Will look at it soon.

Thanks for reading!

Headlights look way better than when I had them 😂

Christ, that's some water in the back there! 😂

Thought the Megane was bad the other day.

Krarl said:

Headlights look way better than when I had them 😂

Click to expand...

Needed a bit of tlc them. I also dropped the passenger one causing even more damage 😆

JamesBryan said:

Christ, that's some water in the back there! 😂

Thought the Megane was bad the other day.

Click to expand...

Should have seen it with spare tyre in it was almost to the top with water 😂 Fcuk knows how ive not noticed it, the oe boot carpet under the large mat has mostly hidden it. It was dry a couple of months back assume its been leaking bad in the couple of storms we have had recently.

Forgot to update this.

After a load of reading and understanding how the delphi system works, i done some diagnostics on the blue dci last Sunday to try and pinpoint the occaaional low idle. Leakoff test on injectors proved to be ok and well within the spec.

After 2 mins running.


Cranking fuel pressure seems fine and no fuel pressure issues under load.

1X heater plug is working 😆 not that they do fookall for startup anyway unless very cold.

Egr had a little bit of s**t in it so mega cleaned it. Touch wood Its ran absolutely fine since the egr clean and back to normal.

I believe the imv on the hp pump could also cause the low idle issues and i have a new one to fit, but reluctant to touch it as all ok at the moment.

Thanks for reading!!

Updates.

Blue dci failed to commence yesterday.

Replaced imv on the hp fuel pump on sat as process of elimination and still had the occasional low idle. I then span egr to stop it egr'ing to eliminate it, marked improvements in performance and engine sound better albeit stinking of diesel on idle but seemed to start up every time no dramas so was 50/50 if fixed or not.

Went to the gym in it last night with it running decent and no issues, came out and no start. Eml came on straight away when cranking assuming low fuel pressure logged, tried to coax it into life with a bit of sniff into the airbox. Started up and conked straight out, assumed fuel system not good.

At this point i rang aa for recovery, 2 hour wait and 0deg temps. Was only 10 mile away from home so scrapped that and a quick call to one of the lads to tow it on the straight bar. Luckily my mate loves to tow and its full send home in 15 mins..

Tow of shame


Get home finally and i give it a quick once over, going over the egr and induction system. Check for anything that might have gone wrong, all good. With ign on the eml (glowplug light) and stop light next to it is lit and flashing like mad.

So close to 200k.


Stick can clip on for diagnostics to see whats actually logged. Suprisingly no low fuel pressure. DF127 is a new one and its permanent, ignore preheater and iat sensor as had airbox off.

Df127 permanent


Extended data says minimum limit.


Check live data next to see if anything off. Starting with cranking rpm to check tdc sensor is working, all ok 200+rpm registering. I then look at fuel pressure and its showing 2000bar/5v present. With the fuel pressure logged so high (which is most likely false due to default values) it wont open the injectors to keep it running when started. Assume fuel rail pressure sensor has went kaputt as its showing default values or wiring issues.

Live data via canclip.


I then unplugged egr, other sensors with diagnostics running to see of df127 dissappeared. Still present until fuel rail pressure sensor was disconnected so its either knackered sensor or wiring issue.

Im sure i can coax it back into life. Sensor is on order so will plug in and see if error goes, if not its loom stripping time.

Orange dci has been pressed into daily driver duties. Battery was a bit down this morning due to cold/sitting around but has since sorted itself out with use. Will monitor and replace if necessary as its not had a battery on it in the 9 years ive owned it.

Thanks for reading!!

Just noticed that refrigerant pressure says 0.0bar too and that was pressured up fine recently. Will also disconnect the ac pressure sensor at the weekend to see if thats affecting sensor voltages.

Don't know if it's any help but the K9K Fault Finding Documents say to check the following not sure if you have access to it or not.

Check the connection and condition of the connectors for all sensors with a 5V supply.

Refrigerant fluid pressure sensor
Inlet manifold pressure sensor
Rail pressure sensor
Pedal sensor gang 1
EGR valve position sensor

Check the connection and condition of computer connectors A, B and C.

To locate an internal fault in one of the sensors with a 5V supply (short circuit), disconnect each of the sensors on the list above in turn, checking after each disconnection whether the fault changes status from present to stored. If the defective sensor is located, check its connections and its conformity. If necessary replace the sensor.

Check the insulation, continuity and absence of interference resistance on the following connections:
Computer connector C track C4 ------> Track B refrigerant fluid pressure sensor
Computer connector B track C1 ------> Track C or 1 inlet manifold pressure sensor
Computer connector B track D1 ------> Track 3 rail pressure sensor
Computer connector A track G2 ------> Track 4 pedal sensor gang 1
Computer connector B track B1 ------> Track 2 EGR valve position sensor
Computer connector B track A1 ------> Track 3 of the flowmeter