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Finally, after what seems years of change after change, the AWT website is now live. Its not finished and there is alot still to put up, but that will be added as things move along. A massive thanks to Craig (Adams_16V) who put in more time, effort and design though into this than was...

Cylinder head design (and that level alone we are talking serious light years ahead), block design, weight, geometry, materials, intake, exhaust, ECU, I-Vtec strategy.............there is probably not one area, even down to a collet, where the F4R is better.

the cars in stock trim might not be far apart, but the new K20A is a vastly superior engine. Even the B20 out of the old CRV is vastly superior, especially when coupled as a hybrid of B16/18 Vtec head with B20 block.

yes, certainly. By optimising the engines clearances on stock components you can increase efficienty, and thus power, without having to resort to any fancy components.

both....more horrid in turbo form. Main problem is the management really, its not any good for decent boost.

ok, different part...are you taking of the air bleed?

When i say better than new, built to better and more consistent tolerances. Blueprinted if you will. If your going for a completely stock engine build, then most certainly. If your wanting to lower the static CR then forged pistons can bring that above 1k, but if your clever you can...

ah crap, thought you were doing a 16V! lol In which case you have tons of room for a charge cooler. injectors......anything that flows enough and fits your fuel rail, impedance will depend what management you decide to run.

plus average quality stainless manifolds crack from the uneven wrapping causing hot spots and differing rates of thermal expansion/contraction. Pretty much all round pointless nowadays.

its a horrid engine though.

the one where the throttle stop touches on, its a grubb screw with a locking nut on.

Yes, if your throttle stop was phsycally stopping the butterfly from full closing, then the TPS signal would not be low enough to trip the ECU into idle strategy to control idle RPM and anti stall via the ISCV.

dont see a point buying a new engine, even a wreck of an old engine can be brought back better than new.

Personally, for an easy base setup i would run no intercooler, mount the charger straight onto the manifold. At a later date, water injection might solve any problems. Make sure you get the compressor speed vs engine speed correct. You might need to extend the nose to get good charger...

no idea, never lived there sorry.

Renatec Ltd Kings Rd, Brislington, Bristol, Avon BS4 3HH Tel: 0117 977 7789 Best people to use in bristol for rens. Near the city motors renault.

All too quick to criticise? "Those who criticize others often are not perfect, either"

sorry, comp crashed....... back up again. lol

oh, and password is RASPBERRY

i'll setup a room called cliosport GImmie a sec.

I think were about to kick off a game of the demo LFS.

The porsches in GTL are the best lol. Game up of LFS or GTL soon?

dot 5 is silicone, i'd hope they werent using that.

oh right.....weird in GT4 i can go faster with the joypad than any wheel.

is that a wheel, as i have the logitech momo thing.

DFP? I have a wheel, just nowhere to mount it lol.

nice, just get in touch anytime then.

i'd love to test one for you on several specs of car to see how it affects things.

Yea, got it......but broke my computer desk...so now cant fit my momo wheel anywhere!!! lol have to use keypad.

Well, when you look at things from the point of a premier exhaust manufacturer, the amount of time it takes, the materials and the 'skill' of the person building it (and their wages more importantly) warrent high prices for the systems.