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No point on the car. The rads efficient enough to cool at high temps.

Why do you need new ones. Try ebay etc but there not cheap plugs are a few quid each and £60 for coils isn't uncommon.

Nope its a torquy type engine so peopel cna have the cc of a 2.0 without having to go for a 197. Won't make any different its just like any other petrol realy.

Nope pipes are cheap to make up though.

Are you sure the MOT test center have read this http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosacorp/repository/MoT%20Issue%2031%20-%20Apr%202006.pdf#xml=http://www.vosa.gov.uk/SCRIPTS/texis.exe/webinator/search/xml.txt?query=clio&pr=CORP&order=r&cq=&id=47281e107 The clio doens't have the arm sensor the rear...

Are you sure you have the right caliper bracket as the R5 GT uses the same caliper bracket but uses a different brackter as it uses the smaller 239mm disk. You need 259mm disk for a correct 1.8/williams etc brake setup

As per the link below May 2002 they were first released. The 80 wasn't as popular at first. Nope it didn't.

A way of telling a head gasget has gone is to check for a amyonaise like substacne under the coolent the 1,.2 suffers from thios but due to the driving charecteristic ie not long runs not the head gasget going the stock head gagste very very very relaible realy. Well if there fixing it its...

It won't be the headgasget I know why they think it is but it won't be. Still its under warently plus new cambelt so worthwhile.

You won't warp them. Check the pads are sitting right and arn't to worn firstly. Thats process of bedding in isn't a bad. Idealy depend what pads your running idealy IMO just do the hard braking forget the stoft stuff for 10 miles before giving them stick. Give them a bot of time to work...

Check the lambeda sensor.

The best way to get the badged off is to take the whole bump strip off. There a little hole under neither the rear of the bump strip stick a screwdriver up themre and pull the tap in there backwards as such and the whole badge and strip slides out backwards.

Its the one in the gearbox near where the shafts come out it holds the diff together as such. They fail and you loose complete drive since the diff can seperate as such. Changing them a pain when there broke as well they can take either 1 minute or a day plus you have to hope you got the old...

Whats exactly wrong with the car though to need a new ECU?

You can have the imobiliser code removed so it cna be used on another car. You can also reactivet the whole imobiliser so the ECU would start any car its plugged into.

Welcome. Glad you enjoy the car.

All the dci have the thick ARB on them and some dci setups are even sportier (ie stiffer) than the 1.6 setups are much harder spring setup. The engine weight is little different. Remap a 80dc and you'll be looking about 105hp and in both real life and on track will be as qucik or quicker than...

Best thing is get on circuit and learn to realy drive first. You can do more for track perforamce if you spend on suspension/brakess and more importantly tyres than you can do spending on tunning. 190hp per ton though can be expensive best way is intake manifold rework and then strip the weight.

Running costs can be steap if you run them properly. I know somone with one pays a fortune to keep in in the condition Lotus intended.

It is stickied in this thread list. http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=187984

It will say bendix/girling on the cylinder somewhere otherwise I forget which that is by looking. Your local motorfacotr is likly to have both in stock so go then and you'll know having stripped it down which you want.

Do a search for pictures on here you won't mistake the two engines if you've seena few pics take the intake manifold off (if its on) and if it says Renault sport all the way accross the top of the maniofld its a 172/182/.

You have a 182 which has almost sports cat already the 172 has a quite restrictive cats so the difference is more noticiable.

You can get the warently entended Renault extended warentlys http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=152496 You have to buy before the normal warently runs out though.

90k woulnd't worry me at all partiucly if th engines all been rebuilt so realy only on 45k.

Royal purple is the best but pricy about £50 you have to find a supplier though I use the millers 75/90 though as its a bit cheaper £35 i think i'm paying.

Depends where you go £350 to £750 depends where you go. Only go to garage who have the tools and have done them before.

Depend how dedicated you are. Tunning ins't cheap.

It does.

The service guide is as follows Servicing (UK only) 172/182 Normal servicing is done ever 12k or 2 yrs there is a 1 month/1k tolerance so you can have it done up to 25month or 13k before any warranty implications. Beyond this time/warranty period you maybe asked by Renault for a % payment...