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i would set idle at std 3bar, since its rising rate is 1.7 itll provid more pressure than the std reg with no vacuum.

ge a low seat jack........mine is 75mm

like i said, copper grease will destroy rubber seals.

the bedding in process is cruicial too. Dont do the slow braking for 100 miles crap, what your trying to do is heat the pads gradually so that you burn off and bond the resins. go up to 60mph and slow down gradually to 5mph (dont stop or youll leave pad deposits which lead to judder), then...

40 because it took them 40 attempts to get it right.

77 01 203 375 KIT BOLT CALLIPER 26.90 ---3 x 1 includes new slides and new rubbers....

agree, my jack sits perfectly on the inner chasis rail....its beefy

1000 quid!!!! seriously, do people on there have brains?

If you jsut wanna rip them off, a angle grinder does it fine, then cut the beads with a stanley knife. Or you could use a wood spoon, batter them till bruised and tender so it falls off.

Yup, std discs.....mintex 1144 is great for the money, superb value as they are only about 30 odd quid. But the are an old compound and suffer from old technology. PF 01 is good, ferodo is good, pagid is expensive as hell but worked best on the cliocup racers. They dropped them for PF due to...

I wont be doing this organisation again unless 10 people come to me first as its terribly difficult to get people. at the beggining you have twice what you need, then nearer pay day they almost always drop out, leaving you stuck again. Just the way it goes.

Its most probably the..............................

It is a piss easy job consisting of 2 bolts, its not a complex machine so if you can handle them you should be able to rebuild the simple slides. As weight says they corrode, mainly the front one and sticks in its bore. Copper grease makes rubber components hard and brittle and specialst...

Same price, different part and different damping/rebound rates.

King, if you could even tell me the basic differences and design principals between michelin and Bridgestone F1 tyres id be well impressed. As for your need to come up with imperical data for alterntive setups, riiiiiiiight. Provide some data for the std setup. And what do you want...

Stop being so narrow minded.........is this the only case for the williams because its a williams? Does this not apply to almost every car made then?

Correct, the point WAS which is better, 16V of willy.....bit of a silly question really. But now its moved onto the debate that the std tyres are the best. Does your 19 16V handle best on a totally std setup?

no, but they complain about the tyres ALOT. Stan, why are renaults best.........simply because? Better tell half the motorsport community this, as they try very hard to improve. And i respect, understand what goes into developing a car, you really dont need to tell me any of that, i agree...

Andy GDI does a great piggy abck unit that would solve any problems and suit all your mods.

its a torx bit and you can buy a set from most any tool/motorfactor/halfords

hush-a-bye baby on the tree top, when the wind blows the cradle will rock..............

Thats a point youve changed now.....where before you guys were only stating that it was as Ren intended with these tyres, now it gives THE BEST result with the std setup. And all im saying is that its not neccesarily the best, just as it was intended for the public........logic?

i say they used the longest straw method!

they can run lean and the only way of being 100% sure is to check, but a chip will generally help with things. OOps, just noticed is a 1.2, but iirc they do run lean midrange aswell.

But the CUP has special hardwalled contis and if anybody changes this then the cup isnt as ren intended and becomes horrible, and none of you lot are qualified to change the settings that renault spent ages correcting to work harmoniously with eachother. hahahaha

yes, thats perfectly fine, i have no problems admitting its a good handling car, because it is. But hes also saying that diff tyres cannot IMPROVE the car. Sure it handles like intended on intended tyres, but whos to say it cannot be improved. He also says, I really do not think many people...

lol, good plan Jim Yes, with a wet kit the fuel is added to the N20 along with the fuel the engine is already injecting. When setting up you simply check ignition timing, the AF ratio, ny detonation problems and solve it usually with just more fuel to cool the burn. But with higher outputs...

is the engine a cracking one of not that special, cause you changed your mind there. And this tyre/chassis combo, they work together, but again another tyre wont?......you cant just say they work well with eachother, and give no support, even from basic driving feeling, why should i be so...

if you got a new one, then new seals would be in the new MS.

its an 8mm square drive.