Haha, i might bottle it yet!
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BG 182
- Thread starter Louis
- Start date
Got round to redoing my gearbox oil today as the comma was just awful after a 100 miles. Had to be careful putting into gear as it just crunched.
Got 2 more litres of gearbox oil, genuine elf stuff to go with my litre left over from before! Frustratingly I never said to @George@RTR_Parts that I had a litre NFJ and I was sent NFP. Quick message to George who put my mind at ease that they would be OK as both suitable for J type gearboxes.
Can always rely on his help even late on a Saturday! Dont get this sort of service elsewhere, cheers again George!
Also finally changed my CV boot as my passenger side has a slight split in it. Thought it was good timing with the box drained in case I managed to pop it out but it all went as planned!
Just a stretchy J&R boot with one of the ribs cut off so it doesn't rub on itself as this causes premature failure. Jubilee clips are the best for boots.
And a picture of my mileage for reference.
Got 2 more litres of gearbox oil, genuine elf stuff to go with my litre left over from before! Frustratingly I never said to @George@RTR_Parts that I had a litre NFJ and I was sent NFP. Quick message to George who put my mind at ease that they would be OK as both suitable for J type gearboxes.
Can always rely on his help even late on a Saturday! Dont get this sort of service elsewhere, cheers again George!
Also finally changed my CV boot as my passenger side has a slight split in it. Thought it was good timing with the box drained in case I managed to pop it out but it all went as planned!
Just a stretchy J&R boot with one of the ribs cut off so it doesn't rub on itself as this causes premature failure. Jubilee clips are the best for boots.
And a picture of my mileage for reference.
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I've a strange creaking/knocking noise so I decided to buy some balljoints as they're simple to change. Pair of lemforder from ECP for £36, were done 3 years ago so even if it doesn't cure the knock least they're refreshed.
Then got round to cleaning inside as it was absolutely hanging and I've been using it for tip runs and when moving house.
Full vac, and wipe down of all trim inside got it looking much better.
Also pulled out the seatbelts and used a stiff brush w/ boiling water and vanish to get the majority of the dirt out. Finished off with the pressure washer and hung them out to dry.
Jetted the mats too and so much filth came out of them, cant believe I havnt done this before now! So much easier than using an interior shampoo and vaccing them.
Final fix was securing my gaiter back down after breaking the clips. Followed an old guide on here that required drilling in selftappers and now it's back in place where it should be! Simple fix and cheaper than buying a new gaiter.
Then got round to cleaning inside as it was absolutely hanging and I've been using it for tip runs and when moving house.
Full vac, and wipe down of all trim inside got it looking much better.
Also pulled out the seatbelts and used a stiff brush w/ boiling water and vanish to get the majority of the dirt out. Finished off with the pressure washer and hung them out to dry.
Jetted the mats too and so much filth came out of them, cant believe I havnt done this before now! So much easier than using an interior shampoo and vaccing them.
Final fix was securing my gaiter back down after breaking the clips. Followed an old guide on here that required drilling in selftappers and now it's back in place where it should be! Simple fix and cheaper than buying a new gaiter.
Bargain! I might buy a new one from ebay at some point but i'll probably forget all about the bodge/fix and leave it!
dann2707
ClioSport Club Member
I bought a new one and it failed a few months later. Your fix is much better.
Jekyll
ClioSport Club Member
I have a new one fitted but kept the old one as the plastic clips are just so weak. I might to what you've done to my spare as its mint barring the snapped clips.
Had a knocking noise for a while and after the balljoints didnt cure it I set about changing the bearings in the top mounts.
Thankfully I'd bought a pair of bearings in preparation of this job as this is what I found.
They were brand new skf bearings just over a year ago and already knackered! Guessing this is why they arent recommended for road use as potholes kill them.
Hammered out the old bearings cleaned up the housings and pushed in another fresh set of skf bearings. Bought them directly from ktec as it was a very similar price to sourcing the parts myself (bearings were cheaper when I bought all the parts separately the first time round!).
Gave the bilsteins a quick wipe down, recoat of acf50 and back into their covers. Definitely needed for billies otherwise they just corrode!
As I'd removed the suspension the alignment was now wildly out. Popped over to bramracing for the alignment to be sorted out.
Car looked decent on the ramp! Needs a machine polish so might see what time I get this week before CSF.
Annoyingly it took a while to set the camber as I'm running camber bolts in slotted holes and it kept going to crazy camber and couldnt be resolved without jacking up the car. Then had to take it off the ramp to get it settled again, nightmare!
Got there in the end relatively close to what I was after so we left it. Car drives fantastic again so I'm happy!
Thankfully I'd bought a pair of bearings in preparation of this job as this is what I found.
They were brand new skf bearings just over a year ago and already knackered! Guessing this is why they arent recommended for road use as potholes kill them.
Hammered out the old bearings cleaned up the housings and pushed in another fresh set of skf bearings. Bought them directly from ktec as it was a very similar price to sourcing the parts myself (bearings were cheaper when I bought all the parts separately the first time round!).
Gave the bilsteins a quick wipe down, recoat of acf50 and back into their covers. Definitely needed for billies otherwise they just corrode!
As I'd removed the suspension the alignment was now wildly out. Popped over to bramracing for the alignment to be sorted out.
Car looked decent on the ramp! Needs a machine polish so might see what time I get this week before CSF.
Annoyingly it took a while to set the camber as I'm running camber bolts in slotted holes and it kept going to crazy camber and couldnt be resolved without jacking up the car. Then had to take it off the ramp to get it settled again, nightmare!
Got there in the end relatively close to what I was after so we left it. Car drives fantastic again so I'm happy!
Crayola
ClioSport Club Member
More slop in them bearings than on a Mia Khalifa set!
Been a while since i've updated this thread and it's going to be a big one! Fair bit has happened really, not all of it for the good! But everything happens for a reason and its onwards and upwards with the clio!
So had the annual trip to CSF convoying down with @leeds2592 in his lolvo as we've not had too much success getting his clio sorted! Maybe next year 😂 Drive down was good as always as the roads leading upto Blyton Park are ace. Had a great time at the show meeting old and new people throughout the day. Got severely sunburnt though without even realising whilst watching the cars go round track!
Took a few photos that i've already posted in the csf thread and also had my clio snapped by a couple of people. I fitted the renaultsport number plates that @Dr Jekyll made for me and they looked wicked. Yellow rear and 3/4 front makes the world of difference IMHO and i'd recommend them 100%. Much prefer them to the ones you can buy from Renault.
Had a good few thousand miles travelling for work along the way with no issues really apart from spilling coffee in my cup holder. Right of passage and had to happen sooner or later after a couple of years of ownership. 😂
In preparation for fitting my new sparco renaultsport wheel I re-soldered some black buttons onto a volantec bracket as it had blue and black that wasn't really fitting to the BG colour schemes. Looking forward to having the new wheel in, but in no rush as my current sparco one with custom cruise control bracket works great and feels perfect. Just like the renaultsport engraving and think it really finishes off the interior.
So had the annual trip to CSF convoying down with @leeds2592 in his lolvo as we've not had too much success getting his clio sorted! Maybe next year 😂 Drive down was good as always as the roads leading upto Blyton Park are ace. Had a great time at the show meeting old and new people throughout the day. Got severely sunburnt though without even realising whilst watching the cars go round track!
Took a few photos that i've already posted in the csf thread and also had my clio snapped by a couple of people. I fitted the renaultsport number plates that @Dr Jekyll made for me and they looked wicked. Yellow rear and 3/4 front makes the world of difference IMHO and i'd recommend them 100%. Much prefer them to the ones you can buy from Renault.
Had a good few thousand miles travelling for work along the way with no issues really apart from spilling coffee in my cup holder. Right of passage and had to happen sooner or later after a couple of years of ownership. 😂
In preparation for fitting my new sparco renaultsport wheel I re-soldered some black buttons onto a volantec bracket as it had blue and black that wasn't really fitting to the BG colour schemes. Looking forward to having the new wheel in, but in no rush as my current sparco one with custom cruise control bracket works great and feels perfect. Just like the renaultsport engraving and think it really finishes off the interior.
Next up was the not so good part of ownership, when I started getting a loud rotational noise that got worse and worse during my commute to work! Appeared from nowhere one day, then just got louder the day after and I decided not to risk it and took the clio off the road. After advice from people on the forum and looking deeper into the issue (jacking car up, feeling for play in shafts etc) it was decided that the issue was down to my gearbox, minutes away from shitting itself.
Old oil drained and it was very black considering it was replaced only a couple of months prior. Loads of crap in the oil aswell caught in the filter of the funnel!
So with that I got in touch with @NorthloopCup who sorted me a rebuild on a box he already had in stock and the deposit was paid.
This was rebuilt with a couple of synchros for 3rd and 4th gear, 3rd gear, bearings x2 (one of them is the mainshaft bearing that can catastrophically fail), selector shaft seal, diff seal, selector bush, selector fork for 1st/2nd gear and a diff rebuild as the internals were showing signs of wear.
Old oil drained and it was very black considering it was replaced only a couple of months prior. Loads of crap in the oil aswell caught in the filter of the funnel!
So with that I got in touch with @NorthloopCup who sorted me a rebuild on a box he already had in stock and the deposit was paid.
This was rebuilt with a couple of synchros for 3rd and 4th gear, 3rd gear, bearings x2 (one of them is the mainshaft bearing that can catastrophically fail), selector shaft seal, diff seal, selector bush, selector fork for 1st/2nd gear and a diff rebuild as the internals were showing signs of wear.
These are the ones mate. Very standard buttons! I'd buy the pack of 5 as you get a few that often 'click' differently.
12V Momentary Push Button Horn Switch OFF (ON) Car Dashboard Boat SPST | eBay
Maximum Panel Thickness: 2mm. 12mm panel cut-out.
www.ebay.co.uk
In the mean-time I stockpiled new parts ready for fitment when fitting the new gearbox. Parts were a genuine Valeo clutch, Febi lower engine mount to replace the one under the gearbox as it had clearly never been touched, MTL oil as recommended by @JamesBryan and Mark, new earth strap as the old just pulled apart on removal and some other bits and bobs.
Set to work removing all the parts and labelling them up until it was just the subframe to drop and box to remove. Annoyingly all 4 subframe clips span but some tactical placement of a screwdriver and the rattle gun they all came out no problem. This then allows you to get a swan-neck on the fronts and a standard flat 18mm spanner on the rears. New ones were ordered from RPD (arrived today)
Gearbox also arrived and I got on with cleaning up the casing with some surfex HD and also painting some other parts whilst they were off the car. Lick of paint helps when rebuilding things!
Yesterday I booked the day off work and thankfully @YorkshireKyle had the week off and popped over to give me a hand. Hardest part of the whole thing was removing the existing gearbox as it got stuck on the front dowel and we could not get it off. In the end resorted to jacking up the box, manouvering it basically back into the original position and pulling it out square, what a nightmare though!
Removed the existing clutch and it still had some meat on it but unsure on its age, may be original to the car! The release bearing was goosed though and had lots of play in it, thankfully a new one came with the valeo clutch. Had a bit of a moment worrying about the bearing being different but a few people on facebook settled our worries and apparently its just an updated design. Saved any pain going to GSF looking for a replacement!
Set to work removing all the parts and labelling them up until it was just the subframe to drop and box to remove. Annoyingly all 4 subframe clips span but some tactical placement of a screwdriver and the rattle gun they all came out no problem. This then allows you to get a swan-neck on the fronts and a standard flat 18mm spanner on the rears. New ones were ordered from RPD (arrived today)
Gearbox also arrived and I got on with cleaning up the casing with some surfex HD and also painting some other parts whilst they were off the car. Lick of paint helps when rebuilding things!
Yesterday I booked the day off work and thankfully @YorkshireKyle had the week off and popped over to give me a hand. Hardest part of the whole thing was removing the existing gearbox as it got stuck on the front dowel and we could not get it off. In the end resorted to jacking up the box, manouvering it basically back into the original position and pulling it out square, what a nightmare though!
Removed the existing clutch and it still had some meat on it but unsure on its age, may be original to the car! The release bearing was goosed though and had lots of play in it, thankfully a new one came with the valeo clutch. Had a bit of a moment worrying about the bearing being different but a few people on facebook settled our worries and apparently its just an updated design. Saved any pain going to GSF looking for a replacement!
Tapped in the little centering ring, fitted the new clutch and torqued it all up, pain free. New gearbox had the release bearing fitted with some lube on the shaft and this was slid straight onto the block with absolutely no issues. Literally took 5 minutes to mate it to the block when we were expecting it to take much longer, especially after the aggro removing the old one.
Bolted everything up and started re-assembly. The worst part was probably refitting the starter motor, but after nearly an hour of messing around we got it into position as per the guide on here and it dropped down so easily into position. Best and worst feeling as it went in so easy and we had been man handling it for ages prior to that! Glad we didn't need to remove the exhaust manifold though and the heatshield clipped back on easily, read a few threads where people said it didn't fit again without removing the manifold?
Filled up the box with some MTL gearbox oil and fired her up on the axle stands. Clutch feels absolutely fine and gearbox is lovely and tight going into every gear perfectly. Not got the car back onto the road yet as I'm waiting until the weekend to fit the new subframe bolts and then will go through all the car with a fine toothcomb looking for any loose bolts we may have missed. Fingers crossed we come across nothing!
Sorry for the long post, thanks if you've stuck around upto this point. Cant thank everyone enough, definitely owe @YorkshireKyle many pints!
Bolted everything up and started re-assembly. The worst part was probably refitting the starter motor, but after nearly an hour of messing around we got it into position as per the guide on here and it dropped down so easily into position. Best and worst feeling as it went in so easy and we had been man handling it for ages prior to that! Glad we didn't need to remove the exhaust manifold though and the heatshield clipped back on easily, read a few threads where people said it didn't fit again without removing the manifold?
Filled up the box with some MTL gearbox oil and fired her up on the axle stands. Clutch feels absolutely fine and gearbox is lovely and tight going into every gear perfectly. Not got the car back onto the road yet as I'm waiting until the weekend to fit the new subframe bolts and then will go through all the car with a fine toothcomb looking for any loose bolts we may have missed. Fingers crossed we come across nothing!
Sorry for the long post, thanks if you've stuck around upto this point. Cant thank everyone enough, definitely owe @YorkshireKyle many pints!
Stefan.
ClioSport Club Member
Looks spot on mate!
Good work on all the work too.
Good work on all the work too.
It isn't bad for the mileage! Getting to a point where it needs bodywork, but its just finding someone reputable that is difficult.
Cheers mate. Biggest job i've done on it since the beginning of ownership!
Crayola
ClioSport Club Member
Feel like a proper tard with that release bearing🤣
What a s**t design
What a s**t design
Louis, try these for bodywork. It's a guy off the renaultsportownersclub. Recently did some paint on Gazzerati's inferno Meg and knowing how anal he is it had to be a good job. https://instagram.com/smithandroper?igshid=dy239epwg8uk
Good work getting the car up and running again pal, that's everything bad the engine changed now then eh. Should be good for a couple of years mtoroing now then 😂.
Good work getting the car up and running again pal, that's everything bad the engine changed now then eh. Should be good for a couple of years mtoroing now then 😂.
Jekyll
ClioSport Club Member
Smashing work mate. Fair bit gone into that.
I'd like to do the same going regarding my gearbox and I'll probably drop Mark a message when I'm ready.
Have you a link to the guide you mentioned? Also thanks for the kind words regarding the plates 👍
Engine bay looks sweet also 😎
I'd like to do the same going regarding my gearbox and I'll probably drop Mark a message when I'm ready.
Have you a link to the guide you mentioned? Also thanks for the kind words regarding the plates 👍
Engine bay looks sweet also 😎
No idea why they change things that work! If that release bearing has been original to the car it's done well!
Cheers mate. Exactly that, everything but the kitchen sink changed now! Fingers crossed it drives well this weekend once back on the ground.
I had a quick nosey at him and he seems good, always a nice feeling when its someone who has an immaculate RS haha.
The guide was just for removing the starter motor mate, the gearbox was kind of figured out as I went along! Being methodical was the best bit, and labelling up everything as it was removed.
Bell housing bolts into some cardboard worked fantastically.
Here's the guide for the starter motor - https://www.cliosport.net/threads/guide-how-to-remove-starter-motor.684276/
Get it back into that position and it literally falls in to position. Heatshield can slot down easily down the back whilst the bolts are loose.
Never really updated this thread, but received the new subframe bolts and got them all bolted in.
Then went around the whole front end with a fine tooth comb and made sure everything important was torqued and everything else was tight. Came across one bellhousing bolt that wasn't fully tight the first time round but nothing else amiss. Always worth doing another check as it's so easy to miss something when tired and when just wanting to get the car all back together again. Not a bad job done though all in all @YorkshireKyle
Didn't fit the subframe clips as just thought it was easier to use the new nylocs and get a spanner on them. Plenty of room and very easy with the cages off.
Before re-fitting the undertray I fitted a nonsport gearbox drip tray that was purchased before the gearbox debacle. This box doesn't have the selector seal leak as it's all been refreshed but just a nice little accessory to have and looks pretty tidy!
Got the car back on it's wheels and took it for a drive. Thankfully everything was night and tight, gearbox felt great and I was so glad to have some extra power after 3 weeks driving a Kia Rio 😂
Noticed my bonnet seal was worse for wear so got another on order and fitted that
.
My tyres were also looking pretty worn at the front, so decided to get a pair of ad08r's fitted that were purchased from a member on here. Also had a slow puncture on the rear that I finally got round to getting sorted and a 6inch nail was found embedded in it! Lucky it's not blown really after all this time. Frustratingly the tyre place managed to chip the edge of my alloy. I didn't realise until I got home and having paid cash I don't really have any comeback...
Got some paint mixed up at a local paintshop so will see if I can touch it up. Put some clear lacquer over it for now to protect it from getting worse but just very frustrating as I had kept these wheels mint and always made sure to stay away from kerbs.
Anyway, as all the subframe had been removed I thought it best to get alignment re-done. I had lots of issues with the camber bolts moving in my bilsteins as the top strut hole is slotted so they dont work properly. Decided to just put the old strut bolts in and see what camber we could achieve with slots alone. Decided to try Atec-Align in Huddersfield after recommendatons from @cb10 and also hearing lots of good reviews. Benefit being they're literally just round the corner.
Chong at Atec got me straight onto the ramps and set about seeing what we were reading. Some mad toe in was seen! Suprised it was so out considering i hadn't moved the tie rods/ends at all and the only thing that had changed was the camber? It was previously set at 1.30° and 12 mins total toe out!
Can't recommend Atec enough for alignment, he's worked with many clios and been in the game over 15 years which inspires lots of confidence in getting a proper job. Clio was jacked up to adjust the camber and see if we could get some off as it's was a little too much for road use. It seems with slotted bilsteins and standard bolts 1.50° is the minimum you can get, however this is pretty much bob-on for what I needed. Clever thing with the hunter kit is that when in the air, you can tell it what you're doing and it adjusts to suit. Means you can play around with camber in the air, and it's the same reading when put back onto its wheels.
Strut bolts were buzzed up and i've much more confidence in them not moving now I'm not running smaller camber bolts. Toe was fine tuned in, with the steering wheel checked multiple times to be dead straight, something i've never really had before! Always a struggle with a smaller steering wheel but a proper peeve when doing motorway driving etc and the wheel isn't straight.
Overall very happy with the set-up and after a drive home it feels epic with no wandering. Car drives perfectly straight with the wheel central. Definitely be using him again!
Overall it's just nice to have a car that drives well again after all the work thats gone into it! Can't wait to get out and have a proper blast.
Today was spent giving the car a full clean/polish and it doesn't scrub up too bad.
Thanks for reading!
Then went around the whole front end with a fine tooth comb and made sure everything important was torqued and everything else was tight. Came across one bellhousing bolt that wasn't fully tight the first time round but nothing else amiss. Always worth doing another check as it's so easy to miss something when tired and when just wanting to get the car all back together again. Not a bad job done though all in all @YorkshireKyle
Didn't fit the subframe clips as just thought it was easier to use the new nylocs and get a spanner on them. Plenty of room and very easy with the cages off.
Before re-fitting the undertray I fitted a nonsport gearbox drip tray that was purchased before the gearbox debacle. This box doesn't have the selector seal leak as it's all been refreshed but just a nice little accessory to have and looks pretty tidy!
Got the car back on it's wheels and took it for a drive. Thankfully everything was night and tight, gearbox felt great and I was so glad to have some extra power after 3 weeks driving a Kia Rio 😂
Noticed my bonnet seal was worse for wear so got another on order and fitted that
.
My tyres were also looking pretty worn at the front, so decided to get a pair of ad08r's fitted that were purchased from a member on here. Also had a slow puncture on the rear that I finally got round to getting sorted and a 6inch nail was found embedded in it! Lucky it's not blown really after all this time. Frustratingly the tyre place managed to chip the edge of my alloy. I didn't realise until I got home and having paid cash I don't really have any comeback...
Got some paint mixed up at a local paintshop so will see if I can touch it up. Put some clear lacquer over it for now to protect it from getting worse but just very frustrating as I had kept these wheels mint and always made sure to stay away from kerbs.
Anyway, as all the subframe had been removed I thought it best to get alignment re-done. I had lots of issues with the camber bolts moving in my bilsteins as the top strut hole is slotted so they dont work properly. Decided to just put the old strut bolts in and see what camber we could achieve with slots alone. Decided to try Atec-Align in Huddersfield after recommendatons from @cb10 and also hearing lots of good reviews. Benefit being they're literally just round the corner.
Chong at Atec got me straight onto the ramps and set about seeing what we were reading. Some mad toe in was seen! Suprised it was so out considering i hadn't moved the tie rods/ends at all and the only thing that had changed was the camber? It was previously set at 1.30° and 12 mins total toe out!
Can't recommend Atec enough for alignment, he's worked with many clios and been in the game over 15 years which inspires lots of confidence in getting a proper job. Clio was jacked up to adjust the camber and see if we could get some off as it's was a little too much for road use. It seems with slotted bilsteins and standard bolts 1.50° is the minimum you can get, however this is pretty much bob-on for what I needed. Clever thing with the hunter kit is that when in the air, you can tell it what you're doing and it adjusts to suit. Means you can play around with camber in the air, and it's the same reading when put back onto its wheels.
Strut bolts were buzzed up and i've much more confidence in them not moving now I'm not running smaller camber bolts. Toe was fine tuned in, with the steering wheel checked multiple times to be dead straight, something i've never really had before! Always a struggle with a smaller steering wheel but a proper peeve when doing motorway driving etc and the wheel isn't straight.
Overall very happy with the set-up and after a drive home it feels epic with no wandering. Car drives perfectly straight with the wheel central. Definitely be using him again!
Overall it's just nice to have a car that drives well again after all the work thats gone into it! Can't wait to get out and have a proper blast.
Today was spent giving the car a full clean/polish and it doesn't scrub up too bad.
Thanks for reading!
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JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
Nuff coin 👀
Ebay 10% off
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
Ebay 10% off
Are you getting the proper side mounts for them?
Yeah will be
Since the last update I purchased genuine Recaro pole position side mounts, double locking sliders and a set of Jon foz xlow subframes. Decided I may aswell do it properly and get everything Recaro as you only need to get them once and can be swapped car to car in the future.
So I got to work and got the seats all assembled onto their sidemounts and sliders. Decided to replace the hardware with 12.9 zinc plated bolts as didnt fancy the self colour ones rusting when in the car!
All bolts had blue loctite applied and then were torqued to spec. Really glad I used these over the supplied bolts as they finish off the seats nicely.
Ignore all the surrounding mess, the seats took priority over putting clothes away/tidying up 😂
As the seats were now all fully built up I sat them on the jon foz xlow subframes and marked up for the holes drilling. None of the predrilled holes really line up so just measured and marked up for the sliders. I tried to get the seat as far over as possible to line up with the wheel without it crashing into the edge of the subframe.
Deburred and added a drop of paint to stop any rust.
I also bought some Peugeot rear seat belt buckles and gave them a lick of satin black as they had an odd blue tinge to them.
Plan is to get some angle brackets made up that will secure into the subframe that will then have the buckles secured to them. You can buy them off the shelf for £50 but its just angled 4mm steel so should be easy to mock up!
So I got to work and got the seats all assembled onto their sidemounts and sliders. Decided to replace the hardware with 12.9 zinc plated bolts as didnt fancy the self colour ones rusting when in the car!
All bolts had blue loctite applied and then were torqued to spec. Really glad I used these over the supplied bolts as they finish off the seats nicely.
Ignore all the surrounding mess, the seats took priority over putting clothes away/tidying up 😂
As the seats were now all fully built up I sat them on the jon foz xlow subframes and marked up for the holes drilling. None of the predrilled holes really line up so just measured and marked up for the sliders. I tried to get the seat as far over as possible to line up with the wheel without it crashing into the edge of the subframe.
Deburred and added a drop of paint to stop any rust.
I also bought some Peugeot rear seat belt buckles and gave them a lick of satin black as they had an odd blue tinge to them.
Plan is to get some angle brackets made up that will secure into the subframe that will then have the buckles secured to them. You can buy them off the shelf for £50 but its just angled 4mm steel so should be easy to mock up!
I was really unhappy with the colour (volvo silver) of the centre caps as they werent close to matching the 2118s. Having previously tried rover stone grey and this also not being close, I went to a local paint shop to get the wheels colour matched. He went through numerous colour cards to find the closest off the shelf and mixed it up for me into a can.
I sanded the caps right back, plastic primed them and then applied 5 coats of top coat. Finished with 3 coats of clear and then left to cure near the radiator for a week.
Pretty happy with how theyve turned out. I think this is realistically the best I will get as they are plastic and the wheels are powder coated so have no real 'code'.
Clio passed its MOT so gave it a well deserved wash after all this awful weather.
Unfortunately whilst I was cleaning I noticed my rear arches are bubbling worse than before. It's been a particularly bad winter with lots of rain/snow which has led to extra grit and salt being put on the roads. I will keep an eye on it but plan on getting it sorted along with the front bumper. Inside of the filler cap is also starting to see more rust, another common spot.
The main problem is time as the cars used as a daily and cant really do without the car for 2 weeks whilst its resprayed.
I sanded the caps right back, plastic primed them and then applied 5 coats of top coat. Finished with 3 coats of clear and then left to cure near the radiator for a week.
Pretty happy with how theyve turned out. I think this is realistically the best I will get as they are plastic and the wheels are powder coated so have no real 'code'.
Clio passed its MOT so gave it a well deserved wash after all this awful weather.
Unfortunately whilst I was cleaning I noticed my rear arches are bubbling worse than before. It's been a particularly bad winter with lots of rain/snow which has led to extra grit and salt being put on the roads. I will keep an eye on it but plan on getting it sorted along with the front bumper. Inside of the filler cap is also starting to see more rust, another common spot.
The main problem is time as the cars used as a daily and cant really do without the car for 2 weeks whilst its resprayed.
Jekyll
ClioSport Club Member
Those seats are proper amazing. They just look so perfect and as you said, they can be swapped from car to car.
Shame about the body work bud. It's a old car now and it's no surprise that its happened, just a bit gutting that it has.
Shame about the body work bud. It's a old car now and it's no surprise that its happened, just a bit gutting that it has.
Forgot to say, I also bought a set of OZ f1's. They're a bit bright currently but in very good condition and were only £170. Going to get the tyres removed and spin them up to ensure they're straight. These are so easy to bend but are a little bit lighter than my 2118s.
Not sure when I'll fit them but @0ss will be happy when I do.
3D printed some centre caps for them aswell using the file on here.
Waiting for good weather to fit the seats as I'll have to move the subwoofer and the nav system under the drivers seat!
Not sure when I'll fit them but @0ss will be happy when I do.
3D printed some centre caps for them aswell using the file on here.
Waiting for good weather to fit the seats as I'll have to move the subwoofer and the nav system under the drivers seat!
Yeah I'm excited to fit them! Want to wait for the right time as I'll need a good couple of days to get all cabling sorted and done properly. Not worth rushing and I dont want to end up getting rained off.
It is a shame but they're getting to that age like you said. I'll just keep dailying it until they're holes 😂 I've some deox gel for the inside of the sills and some dynax spray but just not had chance to treat them. Have to resist the urge for a full respray like yours 👀
My BG is at pretty much the same mileage as yours and if looking really close I can see light bubbling on the inside lip of the arches. Thankfully already sorted the fuel flap and arches from the inside.
Definitely worth getting on top of that asap.
Definitely worth getting on top of that asap.
