Turbo diesels are though and thats what the VRS is I think
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Not according to the tintop regulations rule book, that said a diesel turbo of 1800cc to 2000cc is same class as you Tony.
TDF wanted to do something similar to mine and spent time trying but it's just not possible unless you change the selector on the box
Ahhh yeah cos the selector is on the bottom of the box - 106 is at the back
Can you use sequential boxes in the Tin Tops? That would be fecking awesome!
Yes mate unfortunately that is the problem! The twingo uses a JC5 casing and has cable change but then uses hydraulic clutch so no easy (cheap) way around it
No thankfully not lol! It would be awesome but the costs are silly for buying, fitting, servicing and when they go badly wrong
No thankfully not lol! It would be awesome but the costs are silly for buying, fitting, servicing and when they go badly wrong
Selling the shell would be a silly idea imo james.
You could've had my flame red shell thinking about it now lol.
You could've had my flame red shell thinking about it now lol.
Ahhhh lame
I really want to do something with my gear setup. Think it's time to have a think over winter and see what I can fabricate lol
I really want to do something with my gear setup. Think it's time to have a think over winter and see what I can fabricate lol
Yes Dan it does sound silly but if I can get something better suited to my needs and not cost anything in doing so then its a decent move! If it's going to cost a fortune then I agree with you
Have you tried moving it back just on the linkage? I think you can get a couple of inches with thatAhhhh lame
I really want to do something with my gear setup. Think it's time to have a think over winter and see what I can fabricate lol
Golf GTD Mk7
Bhp does accelerate sure, but it depends what revs you're are in as to whether the bhp outweighs the torque in terms of acceleration.
Keith185
ClioSport Club Member
Awesome write up and hope all goes well between now and start of the season next year
Yeah done that as far as it will go. Trouble is 1st is still a stretch and to be honest I'd really like the seat to be 3-4" further back. I think easiest thing might be what's been done to yours and move the mechanism futher back and extend the link rod under the car.
Taking mine off the road for 5 months soon though so have plenty of time to play about
On my car I have a box full of gears that allows me to match the rpm sweet spot of the engine to the road speed of the car, Can definitely recommend it.
Yeah done that as far as it will go. Trouble is 1st is still a stretch and to be honest I'd really like the seat to be 3-4" further back. I think easiest thing might be what's been done to yours and move the mechanism futher back and extend the link rod under the car.
Taking mine off the road for 5 months soon though so have plenty of time to play about
On my mk1 I just moved it back a couple inches and extended the rod. Took all of half an hour. Really is no drama, just crack on with it.
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Golf GTD Mk7
Which car be that? The Clio is turbo'd I assume
I understand that gearing to suit the optimal torque/bhp is the best method, but gearbox options aren't brilliant for the N/A Clio afaik. Although if you have suggestions.... 
Thanks KeithAwesome write up and hope all goes well between now and start of the season next year
Ohh, Yes its a good way of doing it I think and the way Chip has done his looks ideal compared to mine that is in the boot nearly lol!Yeah done that as far as it will go. Trouble is 1st is still a stretch and to be honest I'd really like the seat to be 3-4" further back. I think easiest thing might be what's been done to yours and move the mechanism futher back and extend the link rod under the car.
Taking mine off the road for 5 months soon though so have plenty of time to play about
Another one mate? I've only just done it today lolThis thread needs a title change
Hahaa pmsl!Link for your Ring video James?
Err that came out wrong
Please excuse it been wonky!
[video=youtube_share;4lA7s1ZHWZA]http://youtu.be/4lA7s1ZHWZA[/video]
Engine is out! While laying on the floor undoing the gearbox I saw a HUGE hole in the back of the block! Nearly big enough to put my hand through! I then peeked inside and could see what a mess it was. Turned the engine upside down on the engine stand and could hear all the parts rattling round inside the engine! Valves are bent on the cylinder that is knackered but the cams look perfect thankfully! Will get photo's tomorrow and upload
Golf GTD Mk7
The block is a fubar. However I'd salvage what you can for spares James.
3 of our current clios are N/A and only one is turbo.Which car be that? The Clio is turbo'd I assume
Clean the block up - put a piece of glass on top - new living room coffee table
You say the bottom of the rod is missing, that makes it sound a lot like rod bolt failure rather than rod failure, as if the rod had snapped there would still be the bottom half attached to the crank in most cases.
Were the rod bolts ARP (you should be able to read it on the head of the remaining bolts if they are), as I know you had a few issues with TDF (practicing my understatements there...) and I just wondered if they did actually fit the bolts you were under the impression they did?
Its pretty unusual for a set of ARPs to fail at only 7800rpm, but on the other hand of course if the bearing had spun it puts MUCH higher loads on them once the clearance opens up as a result of thinner metal when the bearing wears down.
Weird we didnt hear a knocking at idle when queueing to get onto the circuit, must have all happened in the space of a couple of laps which is quite unusual.
I would strongly recomend you datalog oil pressure as well in future, if you had done so this time we would be able to see if you were getting surge when cornering hard on those off camber bends.
Were the rod bolts ARP (you should be able to read it on the head of the remaining bolts if they are), as I know you had a few issues with TDF (practicing my understatements there...) and I just wondered if they did actually fit the bolts you were under the impression they did?
Its pretty unusual for a set of ARPs to fail at only 7800rpm, but on the other hand of course if the bearing had spun it puts MUCH higher loads on them once the clearance opens up as a result of thinner metal when the bearing wears down.
Weird we didnt hear a knocking at idle when queueing to get onto the circuit, must have all happened in the space of a couple of laps which is quite unusual.
I would strongly recomend you datalog oil pressure as well in future, if you had done so this time we would be able to see if you were getting surge when cornering hard on those off camber bends.
The ARP rod bolts I have have a 12 point star head, where as the original bolts are just normal hex bolts.
I was trying my hardest to avoid saying that ^^ lol
Yeah ARP products are nearly always double hex.
But other products are double hex too, so looking for the specific ARP branding seems the better option.
Just cause it let go at 1500rpm, doesnt mean thats the point the bolts first got taken past their elastic limit, it might be that they started stretching when you were at high rpm, which lost clamping force and then just finished themselves off when doing normal driving.
Engine is out! While laying on the floor undoing the gearbox I saw a HUGE hole in the back of the block! Nearly big enough to put my hand through! I then peeked inside and could see what a mess it was. Turned the engine upside down on the engine stand and could hear all the parts rattling round inside the engine! Valves are bent on the cylinder that is knackered but the cams look perfect thankfully! Will get photo's tomorrow and upload
check what cams are fitted while you're there. also as said, check ARP's are/were present
Evo 5 RS
From what I've heard it wouldn't surprise me if they're standard rod bolts. Really am speechless TBH. That said, still could be any number of things
KTM 990 SD / S60 D5
Sorry to hear of your problems James, hope you get it sorted.
Qashcow
I don't know the history of the engine tbf, picked it up rattling bottom end and got 20 miles before the call to the rac lol
Clearly it was already well on its way then.
Clio 172
Top Write up James. Great end to the season and probably a fitting end to the car dying on track at Spa. I'm sure Fred will be putting a top dollar engine intio your car the man kniows his onions and with you in the driving seat 2013 looks bright. I see on FB Fred just got his race licence as well.....hmmm. Wish you all the best Buddy and if your about be good to catch up in the 'off season'.
Yes, I am expecting std bolts... and std cams actually.
The cams arent standard, no way, pulls too well at the top end.
But yes as mentioned to james before we even got recovered, im not going to be surpised by standard bolts!
Evo 5 RS
I take it you're gonna keep the cams James lad? If not pm me lol
Clio 172
Personally I'd be seeking legal advice about now....
Pulls about the same as mine - and mine are standard
I've been sceptical about what's in that engine since I saw the standard injectors. Guess we'll find out soon enough
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