Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
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Brigsy's other cars - formerly kangoo 172 cup
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Weekend update
Lift and main pump wired up, went a bit overkill with the wiring possibly, 2x 40amp relays and 6mm wiring for main pump, but should be more than adequate. Also wired up stack fuel gauge and pikey temporary calibrated the dash with an old sender.
Relays fitted in cubby hole on drivers side.
Crimp and solder/heatshrink
Wiring fed over tank and ran in plastic conduit
Interior finally back together.
An10 breather system completed now the good fittings have arrived from Torques.
Refitted the plastic scuttle and battery cover and seals.
To do list is nearly bottomed out, need more parts to continue.
Ive ordered boost hoses and a few bits but no idea if they will arrive any time soon with the current situation, if fuel hose turns up then poss fire up this week. With a lockdown looking more likely mapping may have to be moved back, playing it by ear at the moment !
Thanks for reading!
Lift and main pump wired up, went a bit overkill with the wiring possibly, 2x 40amp relays and 6mm wiring for main pump, but should be more than adequate. Also wired up stack fuel gauge and pikey temporary calibrated the dash with an old sender.
Relays fitted in cubby hole on drivers side.
Crimp and solder/heatshrink
Wiring fed over tank and ran in plastic conduit
Interior finally back together.
An10 breather system completed now the good fittings have arrived from Torques.
Refitted the plastic scuttle and battery cover and seals.
To do list is nearly bottomed out, need more parts to continue.
Ive ordered boost hoses and a few bits but no idea if they will arrive any time soon with the current situation, if fuel hose turns up then poss fire up this week. With a lockdown looking more likely mapping may have to be moved back, playing it by ear at the moment !
Thanks for reading!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Corona update
Finished plumbing in the fuel system, officially hate braided hose and routing fuel lines, worst job ever
Bridged the fuel pump relay wiring to run the lift pump to fill swirl pot and leak check, only one minor leak and needed to nip a hose clip up. Fired main pump up, and its super loud as expected, but no leaks on any an fittings, ramped the pressure up on the reg to 4.5bar all good static.
Filled it up with mineral oil and primed the oil system up with my home made tool and drill
Oil pressure went up straight away to over 4bar on the stack dash which is decent enough for one of these engines.
Tickled the starter and seen rpm on the laptop so plugged the fuel pump relays in and went for it. Was a nice moment to hear it wanting to fire straight away as i had changed quite a few parts and had to configure the trigger pattern myself for the new flywheel which is ironically same 60- as 172 clio.
Stack dash fired up
Finished plumbing in the fuel system, officially hate braided hose and routing fuel lines, worst job ever
Filled it up with mineral oil and primed the oil system up with my home made tool and drill
Oil pressure went up straight away to over 4bar on the stack dash which is decent enough for one of these engines.
Tickled the starter and seen rpm on the laptop so plugged the fuel pump relays in and went for it. Was a nice moment to hear it wanting to fire straight away as i had changed quite a few parts and had to configure the trigger pattern myself for the new flywheel which is ironically same 60- as 172 clio.
Stack dash fired up
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Ran it up to temp, little bit smokey initially from oil in the bores but soon cleared.
A few issues to sort as top water hose is leaking around the bleed nipple (cheap s**t chinese hoses) might change for oem. Minor oil leak from the oil pressure gauge connection just needs some thread sealant.
As new dash and ecu setup, coolant temp was difficult to monitor which was not ideal.
I know these c series engines very well and they can be a pig to bleed the coolant, however if heater is hot they are fully bled and coolant is circulating, so knew that was OK and rad fan had been tested prior to start. Ran it up until the rad fan cut in on fast idle, let it idle for a few seconds and idled sweet at 800rpm before shut down.
Pulled a plug to see what was going on, looked ok, as expected fairly clean.
Ecu coolant temp was reading way off and went up fast, noted 18deg before fire up so have recalibrated that, seemed to be around 20deg out from my reckon up.
Checked various areas of rad and hoses with an IR thermometer to keep an eye on things, and it looks like the stack dash is under reading water temp as only seen 50deg.
I used an aftermarket water temp sensor which was supposed to be fine, so have bit the bullet and ordered a genuine stack sensor at £56
Interestingly it fired up although a bit lean, 15 ish afr at around 2k rpm, noted egts rising quite fast to around 700deg, upped master trim on ecu to add more fuel richening afr to 13s and the egt instantly dropped to 500deg. Never had an egt gauge hooked up so was a novelty to see.
Will attend to all the issues, re torque the head and give the coolant circuit a pressure test to cure any little leaks and next fire up will be road test, cant wait.
Thanks for reading!
A few issues to sort as top water hose is leaking around the bleed nipple (cheap s**t chinese hoses) might change for oem. Minor oil leak from the oil pressure gauge connection just needs some thread sealant.
As new dash and ecu setup, coolant temp was difficult to monitor which was not ideal.
I know these c series engines very well and they can be a pig to bleed the coolant, however if heater is hot they are fully bled and coolant is circulating, so knew that was OK and rad fan had been tested prior to start. Ran it up until the rad fan cut in on fast idle, let it idle for a few seconds and idled sweet at 800rpm before shut down.
Pulled a plug to see what was going on, looked ok, as expected fairly clean.
Ecu coolant temp was reading way off and went up fast, noted 18deg before fire up so have recalibrated that, seemed to be around 20deg out from my reckon up.
Checked various areas of rad and hoses with an IR thermometer to keep an eye on things, and it looks like the stack dash is under reading water temp as only seen 50deg.
I used an aftermarket water temp sensor which was supposed to be fine, so have bit the bullet and ordered a genuine stack sensor at £56
Interestingly it fired up although a bit lean, 15 ish afr at around 2k rpm, noted egts rising quite fast to around 700deg, upped master trim on ecu to add more fuel richening afr to 13s and the egt instantly dropped to 500deg. Never had an egt gauge hooked up so was a novelty to see.
Will attend to all the issues, re torque the head and give the coolant circuit a pressure test to cure any little leaks and next fire up will be road test, cant wait.
Thanks for reading!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Cheers mate, was a good buzz with it wanting to start straight away, as i had issues with it starting on the old trigger wheel.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Stack temp sensor turned up today
Done a back to back test with the old sensor and ir temp probe
Old sensor said 40deg
New genuine stack sensor reported 18deg difference
Repeated the test with hot water and same result, original sensor seems to max out at 50deg. Stack sensor responds far faster too.
The aftermarket sensor was supposed to be fine on the stack dash, but as usual should take anything you read on the internet with a pinch of salt looks like i will have to get my money out and replace the oil temp sensor too. Buy cheap, buy twice!
Done a back to back test with the old sensor and ir temp probe
Old sensor said 40deg
New genuine stack sensor reported 18deg difference
Repeated the test with hot water and same result, original sensor seems to max out at 50deg. Stack sensor responds far faster too.
The aftermarket sensor was supposed to be fine on the stack dash, but as usual should take anything you read on the internet with a pinch of salt
looks like i will have to get my money out and replace the oil temp sensor too. Buy cheap, buy twice!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
They were great little knock about vans ten or so years ago when they were totally disposable.
They all have that door click when the open even the gtts! A few years ago the pins seized on my drivers door, causing it to drop a bit which in turn caused it to need a massive slam to shut, which ripped the hinge off the door skin. That was great fun to fix
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Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Mk1 kangoo is another good throwaway van at the moment, cheap as chips!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Ordered an Airtec cosworth grp a filter as the old JR cone filter i had was blue, did not really fit in with the new look. Forgot how big they are when unwrapping!
Fitted, i planned on boxing it in but too big so can stay as is.
Added some fuses for both fuel pumps under the bonnet. @DaveL485 linked me up with these, good bit of kit.
Awaiting a few small parts and should be complete in the engine bay soon.
Thanks for reading!
Fitted, i planned on boxing it in but too big so can stay as is.
Added some fuses for both fuel pumps under the bonnet. @DaveL485 linked me up with these, good bit of kit.
Awaiting a few small parts and should be complete in the engine bay soon.
Thanks for reading!
massiveCoRbyn
ClioSport Club Member
Several
Do love a Cossie cone filter. My old 850 T-5 had one. Nothing quite like 'em.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates from the weekend,
Awaiting parts to finish off under the bonnet so cant really go any furthur forward until they arrive so doing the little bits. Finished the last little bits in the interior and give it a good clean up.
Not too keen on the polished steering wheel anymore and fancied a change, so dug out a spare steering wheel and give it a makeover with bedliner paint, as i love the textured hard wearing finish. The boss was looking tatty so give that a once over too.
Fitted, looks more oem+
Pulled out the Leda front coilovers i bought a while back to clean up and check condition. The bloke who i bought them off reckoned he pushed them down once a month to keep the seals in good nick, i call bullshit to that as the springs are solid and i cannot move them whatsoever when built up.
I planned on doing this ages ago but did not have a socket the right size to remove the top nut, i took one of the legs down to my local garage and they did not have one eithereventually we found out that it is a 26mm socket, queer size for whatever reason. Ebay to the rescue for a 26mm impact socket!
Gunned the nut off with my Dewalt no bother and stripped down, solid compbrake top mounts removed and springs off to reveal 350lb and 8" long. No way did the previous owner compress these by hand!
Stripped, threads cleaned, degreased. Checked both shafts for movement and work fine, damping works ok. I was not too worried if as the price to get them rebuilt from Leda is not too expensive. Stripped top mounts down and regreased the spherical bearings as dry, could probably do with renewing them soon but ok for now.
Rebuilt, threads greased with anti corrosion grease, and coated in acf50. I was very tempted to paint them black with bedliner paint but the tin is nearly empty. Just noticed i put one top mount on upside down, only loosely fitted though for now
Thanks for reading !
Awaiting parts to finish off under the bonnet so cant really go any furthur forward until they arrive so doing the little bits. Finished the last little bits in the interior and give it a good clean up.
Not too keen on the polished steering wheel anymore and fancied a change, so dug out a spare steering wheel and give it a makeover with bedliner paint, as i love the textured hard wearing finish. The boss was looking tatty so give that a once over too.
Fitted, looks more oem+
Pulled out the Leda front coilovers i bought a while back to clean up and check condition. The bloke who i bought them off reckoned he pushed them down once a month to keep the seals in good nick, i call bullshit to that as the springs are solid and i cannot move them whatsoever when built up.
I planned on doing this ages ago but did not have a socket the right size to remove the top nut, i took one of the legs down to my local garage and they did not have one either
eventually we found out that it is a 26mm socket, queer size for whatever reason. Ebay to the rescue for a 26mm impact socket!Gunned the nut off with my Dewalt no bother and stripped down, solid compbrake top mounts removed and springs off to reveal 350lb and 8" long. No way did the previous owner compress these by hand!
Stripped, threads cleaned, degreased. Checked both shafts for movement and work fine, damping works ok. I was not too worried if as the price to get them rebuilt from Leda is not too expensive. Stripped top mounts down and regreased the spherical bearings as dry, could probably do with renewing them soon but ok for now.
Rebuilt, threads greased with anti corrosion grease, and coated in acf50. I was very tempted to paint them black with bedliner paint but the tin is nearly empty. Just noticed i put one top mount on upside down, only loosely fitted though for now
Thanks for reading !
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Had a good look around the bodywork too, its looking well used im some places, and could benefit from a pair of front wings and a couple of other bits tidying up soon but still passes the ten foot test. Built to be driven, not to be washed
Had a good look round the underside, the front floorpan is absoultely mint due to the mega oil leaks over the years, but the rear floor around the fuel tank will need a clean up soon. Its easily mot passable for the next few years as still solid, and i would say more solid than 90% of the gt turbos out there. Its at the stage of fix it now, and it will last forever, or leave it 5 years to develop and spend time on your back welding bits up. Rear beam needs a rebuild, will drop that and the tank in the winter.
The current lockdown would be the perfect time to do it, but i have no gear and if i start then prob be off the road this year
Give it an mot pre check, needs the brake pipes doing front to rear, as i pulled the plastic cover off revealing a 6" scabby section of brake pipe underneath. This is another classic mot pass, yet should fail as they cannot remove the cover to check the pipes. Cant moan as its still on the original 23year old brake pipes. Will get these done as soon as the local motor factors is open again, no biggie as the brake fluid needs changing anyway.
Also looked at date stamps on my r888, and the rears are 2011 so not the best, seem to be in ok nick and soft, so will keep an eye on them.
Had a good look round the underside, the front floorpan is absoultely mint due to the mega oil leaks over the years, but the rear floor around the fuel tank will need a clean up soon. Its easily mot passable for the next few years as still solid, and i would say more solid than 90% of the gt turbos out there. Its at the stage of fix it now, and it will last forever, or leave it 5 years to develop and spend time on your back welding bits up. Rear beam needs a rebuild, will drop that and the tank in the winter.
The current lockdown would be the perfect time to do it, but i have no gear and if i start then prob be off the road this year
Give it an mot pre check, needs the brake pipes doing front to rear, as i pulled the plastic cover off revealing a 6" scabby section of brake pipe underneath. This is another classic mot pass, yet should fail as they cannot remove the cover to check the pipes. Cant moan as its still on the original 23year old brake pipes. Will get these done as soon as the local motor factors is open again, no biggie as the brake fluid needs changing anyway.
Also looked at date stamps on my r888, and the rears are 2011 so not the best, seem to be in ok nick and soft, so will keep an eye on them.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Been waiting for the postman to deliver some small parcels for ages so i could make progress on the Extra, ordered them all a fortnight ago and just arrived.
Had an issue with coolant temp sensor adaptor leaking from the threads even with a couple of wraps of ptfe, so ordered a tube of Loctite 577 to seal the threads. New air temp sensor and custom hose adaptor to suit, new stack oil temp sensor to replace the incorrectly reading old one.
Tried the 577 out on my air temp sensor, seems like good stuff.
Air temp sensor mocked up in place.
Typically work have given us a task to do from home now so cant get straight in the garage tomoz! But hopefully get a few hours on it over the weekend, will see.
Had an issue with coolant temp sensor adaptor leaking from the threads even with a couple of wraps of ptfe, so ordered a tube of Loctite 577 to seal the threads. New air temp sensor and custom hose adaptor to suit, new stack oil temp sensor to replace the incorrectly reading old one.
Tried the 577 out on my air temp sensor, seems like good stuff.
Air temp sensor mocked up in place.
Typically work have given us a task to do from home now so cant get straight in the garage tomoz! But hopefully get a few hours on it over the weekend, will see.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Had a day on the Extra today.
Had to change the stack oil temp sender. Its buried under a load of pipes at the fronf of the block. Whipped front end and intercooler off for access, easy job as its all been off many times over the years
Intercooler off giving easy access
New sensor fitted, added a bit of Loctite 577 thread sealant, also done the gauge fitting on turbo oil feed as was weeping slightly.
Fitted cold side boost hoses whilst apart as access was much better. AIT sensor fitted in boost hose instead of inlet to avoid loads of heat soak.
Started refitting the parts, looks badass with grill and no bumper
Checked boost hose clearance against bonnet when shut and all good, its tight but the same as the old carb setup was.
Fired the laptop up and checked everything was reading ok.
Ambient temp high today, took egt as baseline saying 16deg
Ecu IAT 16deg, water 14deg
Stack dash water temp 15deg
Oil temp 16deg
All close enough so should be ok on next fire up. A few small jobs to do now but its pretty much ready for road test. Roll on end of lockdown.
Thanks for reading!!
Had to change the stack oil temp sender. Its buried under a load of pipes at the fronf of the block. Whipped front end and intercooler off for access, easy job as its all been off many times over the years
Intercooler off giving easy access
New sensor fitted, added a bit of Loctite 577 thread sealant, also done the gauge fitting on turbo oil feed as was weeping slightly.
Fitted cold side boost hoses whilst apart as access was much better. AIT sensor fitted in boost hose instead of inlet to avoid loads of heat soak.
Started refitting the parts, looks badass with grill and no bumper
Checked boost hose clearance against bonnet when shut and all good, its tight but the same as the old carb setup was.
Fired the laptop up and checked everything was reading ok.
Ambient temp high today, took egt as baseline saying 16deg
Ecu IAT 16deg, water 14deg
Stack dash water temp 15deg
Oil temp 16deg
All close enough so should be ok on next fire up. A few small jobs to do now but its pretty much ready for road test. Roll on end of lockdown.
Thanks for reading!!
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Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Done a few little bits yesterday.
Started off with oil and filter change as the oil had went black with the graphogen assembly lube from initial run up. I have a magnetic sump plug which was nice and clean, oil looked ok nothing to see really. Cut filter open to check for swarf, a few very small particles as expected from new rings bedding in.
Next job was coolant leak fixing, its had a few minor yet annoying drips of coolant. Pressured the cooling system up to 15lbs using an old header tank cap and a car valve. This revealed all the little leaks, just needed to go round and nip a few jubilee clips up and it holds 15psi no problems.
Pressure test in action
Rolled it out the garage to clean up spilled coolant. Fitted a small bracket to the airfilter to stop it rubbing the paint off the inner wing like the previous filter did over the years.
Quick wipe down for the hoses and bonnet
Finished off by checking actuator preload with a pump and crack pressure is 18lbs so that can be low boost setting.
Need to pressure the boost circuit up for leaks and make a rad cowling next.
Thanks for reading !
Started off with oil and filter change as the oil had went black with the graphogen assembly lube from initial run up. I have a magnetic sump plug which was nice and clean, oil looked ok nothing to see really. Cut filter open to check for swarf, a few very small particles as expected from new rings bedding in.
Next job was coolant leak fixing, its had a few minor yet annoying drips of coolant. Pressured the cooling system up to 15lbs using an old header tank cap and a car valve. This revealed all the little leaks, just needed to go round and nip a few jubilee clips up and it holds 15psi no problems.
Pressure test in action
Rolled it out the garage to clean up spilled coolant. Fitted a small bracket to the airfilter to stop it rubbing the paint off the inner wing like the previous filter did over the years.
Quick wipe down for the hoses and bonnet
Finished off by checking actuator preload with a pump and crack pressure is 18lbs so that can be low boost setting.
Need to pressure the boost circuit up for leaks and make a rad cowling next.
Thanks for reading !
Chambers_RS
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172 Cup&Leon K1
Writing on the bonnet is class 👌🏻😂
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Should see the back, its chaos inside with graffiti, kill list and loads of track stickers. When i used to do a lot of drag racing, it usually ended up in a piss up on the night at Santa pod, and i used to leave the doors open and a permanent marker for people to do whatever they pleased ! Will get some pics of it.
This pic popped up today on facebook, i think it was 2010 at Santa Pod RTOC day. I had ran my first ever 12.88sec qtr mile on 22x8 M&H drag radials that day, still fitted in the pic. The pod nights were wild back then and anything seemed to go if it was doing no harm, Whilst bbq was warming up we had a toilet run, i think 13 of us got in. There was no room for me and my mate was driving, i had to stand on the back bumper good job it was crawling pace
I was thinking the other day about what i love about this van and the reasons why i would never part with it. Its been proper used and abused and ive enjoyed it immensly over the years, its never failed to put a smile on my face when driving it.
So many memories, bought it blind on ebay March 2008 for a daft project, built it outside on my ex’s shared drive. Ive done loads of drag strip runs, loads of trackdays in it, been to europe and back in it, used it daily at points, used it for mobile mechanic work and had it loaded to the roof full of gear. Its so oldskool and raw to drive, no abs, no asr, no airbags, no power steering, no electric windows, and epic fun because of the simplicity.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Just had a flashback from the last CSF i took it to. On track with one of the french lads as passenger, he could not speak no english, hit one of the apex’s and the cowling round the steering column fell off, look on his face was priceless After track had finished, picked up some pizzas in it, and on the night went to drive back to the hotel and the stalk had failed so no dipped beam. Still made it home ok though.
Bit gutted that i had a mega push this year to get it ready for Retro show and CSF but corona has knacked it, the plan was to get it road legal asap, ran in and fix any issues, mapped back end of May with a look to getting it on track, and i was totally on schedule to do it. Oh well, always next year i guess.
After track had finished, picked up some pizzas in it, and on the night went to drive back to the hotel and the stalk had failed so no dipped beam. Still made it home ok though.Bit gutted that i had a mega push this year to get it ready for Retro show and CSF but corona has knacked it, the plan was to get it road legal asap, ran in and fix any issues, mapped back end of May with a look to getting it on track, and i was totally on schedule to do it. Oh well, always next year i guess.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates
Renewed insurance with Greenlight, fully comp, agreed value for me and the mrs £250 for the year, cheap as chips.
Needed to give it a start up to leak test the cooling system and a couple of oil fittings. Fired up willing and no issues, batt light was on so give the alternator connector a remove/refit as i had been in that area fitting the boost hoses which cured that issue. Give it a little rev and noticed the fuel pump noise really pick up the pace which seemed a little strange, so went through the menu on the stack dash to display voltage, 14.4v on idle, when revved to 2k rpm 16.5 volts that will be the regulator shot and overcharging.
Turned engine off to save frying anything, tried to remove the alternator reg in situ as access was easy but fitted with the tightest slotted screws ever. Had to resort to taking it off, replaced with a new one off a recon volvo alternator i had in stock. Turned out to be a good move, as the bushes were worn right down on current regulator.
Refitted and fired up, and seen 13.8 volts whem revved, a lot safer than last time. Ran it to the rad fan kicked in, tweaked the idle cells on the map slightly to lean the idle off. Intetestingly with a stock thermostat and rad fan switch, it runs loads cooler on idle on EFI compared to carburettor. Highest recorded coolant temp i have seen is 80deg on the Stack dash, slightly less on ecu and the rad fan does not cut in very often, as any gtt owners know the fan usually cuts in every minute or so on idle.
Took it for a run down the drive and back and clutch/gears work ok so good to go for road test.
Thanks for reading!
Renewed insurance with Greenlight, fully comp, agreed value for me and the mrs £250 for the year, cheap as chips.
Needed to give it a start up to leak test the cooling system and a couple of oil fittings. Fired up willing and no issues, batt light was on so give the alternator connector a remove/refit as i had been in that area fitting the boost hoses which cured that issue. Give it a little rev and noticed the fuel pump noise really pick up the pace which seemed a little strange, so went through the menu on the stack dash to display voltage, 14.4v on idle, when revved to 2k rpm 16.5 volts
that will be the regulator shot and overcharging.Turned engine off to save frying anything, tried to remove the alternator reg in situ as access was easy but fitted with the tightest slotted screws ever. Had to resort to taking it off, replaced with a new one off a recon volvo alternator i had in stock. Turned out to be a good move, as the bushes were worn right down on current regulator.
Refitted and fired up, and seen 13.8 volts whem revved, a lot safer than last time. Ran it to the rad fan kicked in, tweaked the idle cells on the map slightly to lean the idle off. Intetestingly with a stock thermostat and rad fan switch, it runs loads cooler on idle on EFI compared to carburettor. Highest recorded coolant temp i have seen is 80deg on the Stack dash, slightly less on ecu and the rad fan does not cut in very often, as any gtt owners know the fan usually cuts in every minute or so on idle.
Took it for a run down the drive and back and clutch/gears work ok so good to go for road test.
Thanks for reading!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Fairly large update
Cleaned up the Extra last week. Started by jacking the front up and cleaning out the arches. I had wondered why the lower wings had rotted quite a bit over the years considering its been garaged forever. Removed arch liners to reveal solid mud up the pillar, that would explain the rust.
Full shovels worth. Sill looks good and solid with only surface rust so cant moan.
Might have lasted a bit longer if i had cleaned it out ten years ago, but when i built this it was driven and not washed, and didnt even think about keeping it for a longer period.
Anyway rust treated and put back together, BH autofoam and rinse, 2 bucket wash, a quick go over with Sonax BSD and Autoglym trim gel, tyre black and it looks half decent for an old van.
Plate off track look.
inside pics showing all the graffiti in the rear, some poss nsfw
Bumped into my mot tester last week on the shopping run. He was parked near my blue clio in Asda carpark and we had a bit of craic at a safe distance of course, and he asked how the Extra was coming together. Told him the craic, that its ready for road but a bit gutted with the whole situation so had not drove it yet and not even thought about it. He advised that no mots or work were booked in for last Sat, with him literally the only person in the garage and give me the green light for an mot at safe distance and book it in around next journey out for essentials.
Took it for mot, i had not drove it but the mot station is on my doorstep approx 1mile away. Little bit nervous initially as everything has changed and i had done quite a few changes to the base map, however it drove absoultely great on the first drive.
Passed mot no problem, and then had to drop off some supplies for the mrs Dad as he is housebound at the moment and in bad health so good excuse to have a short drive.
Inital thoughts on efi, drives great on base map, engine feels very responsive but still makes all the right noises so has not lost the character. Ive only used low load/low boost and lots of engine braking to force the rings tight up against the cylinders. Fuelling seems good, ive set it up to run in closed loop at under 100KPA on the map so its generally around 14afr when cruising, but richens up straight away when on boost to 12.0 and dropping to mid 11's so safe as houses. I bottled it at 8lbs as no knock detection and ign map might be way off, but it felt willing and wanted to go.
Also noticed that the coolant temp lingers around 76deg on the move, quite a bit lower than carb, i assume the engine is very happy with an injector per cylinder.
Its got no oilcooler on at the moment, ive left it off for running in purposes and to see what oil temps are like without it. Ive not seen oil temp raise above 67-70deg so i assume it wont be needed for road use, may need a small one for track, will see.
Cleaned up the Extra last week. Started by jacking the front up and cleaning out the arches. I had wondered why the lower wings had rotted quite a bit over the years considering its been garaged forever. Removed arch liners to reveal solid mud up the pillar, that would explain the rust.
Full shovels worth. Sill looks good and solid with only surface rust so cant moan.
Anyway rust treated and put back together, BH autofoam and rinse, 2 bucket wash, a quick go over with Sonax BSD and Autoglym trim gel, tyre black and it looks half decent for an old van.
Plate off track look.
Bumped into my mot tester last week on the shopping run. He was parked near my blue clio in Asda carpark and we had a bit of craic at a safe distance of course, and he asked how the Extra was coming together. Told him the craic, that its ready for road but a bit gutted with the whole situation so had not drove it yet and not even thought about it. He advised that no mots or work were booked in for last Sat, with him literally the only person in the garage and give me the green light for an mot at safe distance and book it in around next journey out for essentials.
Took it for mot, i had not drove it but the mot station is on my doorstep approx 1mile away. Little bit nervous initially as everything has changed and i had done quite a few changes to the base map, however it drove absoultely great on the first drive.
Passed mot no problem, and then had to drop off some supplies for the mrs Dad as he is housebound at the moment and in bad health so good excuse to have a short drive.
Inital thoughts on efi, drives great on base map, engine feels very responsive but still makes all the right noises so has not lost the character. Ive only used low load/low boost and lots of engine braking to force the rings tight up against the cylinders. Fuelling seems good, ive set it up to run in closed loop at under 100KPA on the map so its generally around 14afr when cruising, but richens up straight away when on boost to 12.0 and dropping to mid 11's so safe as houses. I bottled it at 8lbs as no knock detection and ign map might be way off, but it felt willing and wanted to go.
Also noticed that the coolant temp lingers around 76deg on the move, quite a bit lower than carb, i assume the engine is very happy with an injector per cylinder.
Its got no oilcooler on at the moment, ive left it off for running in purposes and to see what oil temps are like without it. Ive not seen oil temp raise above 67-70deg so i assume it wont be needed for road use, may need a small one for track, will see.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Quick stop to check fluids
Forgot how good it sounds. Ive had to add some ign timing to the 0KPA cells on the map as they were set at 0deg between 2-5krpm which give asbo style bangs on overrun. Dialled in some regular numbers and it still pops and bangs on overrun but it sounds great.
Had a good look around it after initial shakedown and nothing to report, coolant is still full and oil still on the max. Took turbo oil pre filter apart to check for swarf and nothing to see.
Have got my money out and bought the expensive gps speedo module for the stack dash.
Such a buzz to drive it again after all these years. Roll on mapping when Efi parts open up again.
Thanks for reading!
Forgot how good it sounds. Ive had to add some ign timing to the 0KPA cells on the map as they were set at 0deg between 2-5krpm which give asbo style bangs on overrun. Dialled in some regular numbers and it still pops and bangs on overrun but it sounds great.
Had a good look around it after initial shakedown and nothing to report, coolant is still full and oil still on the max. Took turbo oil pre filter apart to check for swarf and nothing to see.
Have got my money out and bought the expensive gps speedo module for the stack dash.
Such a buzz to drive it again after all these years. Roll on mapping when Efi parts open up again.
Thanks for reading!
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Adey.
ClioSport Club Member
One of the coolest vans has gotten a whole lot cooler. Cant wait to see it in the flesh man
Martin_172
ClioSport Club Member
Love it! Good work
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Cheers all, its a riot when running right. Just feels good to get back in the seat and be able to drive it after all these years, such a buzz.
Fitted the Stack gps module yesterday, i could have rammed it behind the dash but stashed it in the cubby hole for easy access to the calibrate button. Dead easy to install, simple plug into the stack wiring and fit the antenna in the windscreen area, its a small discreet magnetic antenna so stuck it on the A pillar.
Pulled out for a short drive to the shops to test
Dash needed some settings changed as was massively overreading initially, but got that dialled in and seems to be very accurate, really fast to respond so quite pleased with the result. Recalled peak details on the stack dash.
Had a little issue rear its head..the battery on the Extra is 18month old but hardly been used, ive had it on the trickle charge before the previous start up. Noticed that it cranks over steady away but not too lively, voltage dropping down to 10.5v when cranking on initial startups with full battery.
Last time i drove it i did not charge the batt, just removed the negative terminal. Had the ign on and off a few times yesterday and it was not flat by a long shot but voltage dropped to 8.5v when cranking. Started straight up, pulled to the front of the drive and switched off.
On 2nd start, the engine cranked, fired then instantly cut out, dash went off etc. Same again ecu voltage was dropping to 8v, but managed to get it to run with a bit of throttle that fired the alternator up.
Have come to the conclusion the batt might not be adequate with all the new electrics added, and going to beef up the earths.
Undecided what battery to buy, do i go for the diesel one it had on ages ago, or a modern gel type. I want something that will crank the engine fast and multiple times if necessary, no race style one hit wonder batterys.
Thanks for reading !
Fitted the Stack gps module yesterday, i could have rammed it behind the dash but stashed it in the cubby hole for easy access to the calibrate button. Dead easy to install, simple plug into the stack wiring and fit the antenna in the windscreen area, its a small discreet magnetic antenna so stuck it on the A pillar.
Pulled out for a short drive to the shops to test
Dash needed some settings changed as was massively overreading initially, but got that dialled in and seems to be very accurate, really fast to respond so quite pleased with the result. Recalled peak details on the stack dash.
Had a little issue rear its head..the battery on the Extra is 18month old but hardly been used, ive had it on the trickle charge before the previous start up. Noticed that it cranks over steady away but not too lively, voltage dropping down to 10.5v when cranking on initial startups with full battery.
Last time i drove it i did not charge the batt, just removed the negative terminal. Had the ign on and off a few times yesterday and it was not flat by a long shot but voltage dropped to 8.5v when cranking. Started straight up, pulled to the front of the drive and switched off.
On 2nd start, the engine cranked, fired then instantly cut out, dash went off etc. Same again ecu voltage was dropping to 8v, but managed to get it to run with a bit of throttle that fired the alternator up.
Have come to the conclusion the batt might not be adequate with all the new electrics added, and going to beef up the earths.
Undecided what battery to buy, do i go for the diesel one it had on ages ago, or a modern gel type. I want something that will crank the engine fast and multiple times if necessary, no race style one hit wonder batterys.
Thanks for reading !
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Pulled the cars out for a clean yesterday.
225 done first, BH auto foam, 2 bucket wash, dried and a coat of Sonax bsd. Cant wait to use this once lockdown is over.
Next up the gtt, got the same treatment as the meg.
Dug out a tape pack to stick on whilst cleaning
The eyes on the box if you know you know
Sat and relived my youth for a bit, tape player on, going to the all nighter!! Great memories.
Thanks for reading!
225 done first, BH auto foam, 2 bucket wash, dried and a coat of Sonax bsd. Cant wait to use this once lockdown is over.
Next up the gtt, got the same treatment as the meg.
Dug out a tape pack to stick on whilst cleaning
The eyes on the box
if you know you know Sat and relived my youth for a bit, tape player on, going to the all nighter!! Great memories.
Thanks for reading!
Cor my gums are hurting all over again listening to those tunes! Classic, love the GTT
Krarl
ClioSport Club Member
Getting 3rd degree gurns just looking at the artwork😂
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Cheers mate. My jaw still clicks from that era of hardcore and all nighters
Haha epic aint it. Should have had sunglasses on and kept away from the camera
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates
Cured the lazy start issue. Fitted the megane battery on, which improved things a bit. Fitted some beefy 35mm2 earths from engine block and it cranks over mega fast now, so a combination of both poor batt and poor earth
Been chasing minor coolant leaks as a few joints are weeping when stood for a few days, no leaks when running and the system holds good pressure when tested. Cheap chinese silicone hoses for you, were ok years ago but the standards have dropped massively now.
Have nipped every joint and its OK for now, but the plan is to bin them eventually for sfs or samco matt black hoses.
Had the pleasure of calibrating the fuel gauge yesterday as had no idea how much fuel was in when low.
Drained the tank and gob full of fuel, fill 5ltr container, pour into tank, repeat, get covered in fuel etc. Worst job ever but done, been putting this off as i knew it was a s**t job. It said 5 ltrs left on last calibration and had about 3ltr in the tank so not the best. This time i stuck 5ltrs of fuel in and set that at 0 so it will always have a gallon if your really stuck. Stopped at 38ltrs as i ran out of fuel.
Its been out on the shopping run a few times recently and have clocked up 80 or so miles in total on the new setup and its running great. Just needs mapping now, have ordered Astra vxr blue 470cc injectors to replace the ancient saab reds in it and some fresh oil to change before.
Still love the retro stance
Seen my old Kangoo at my mates the other day when passing. Still looks clean, miss it a bit and still love the stance on the 2118s.
I was tempted to take it out but i knew it would be sat on the drive again if i did!
Thanks for reading!
Cured the lazy start issue. Fitted the megane battery on, which improved things a bit. Fitted some beefy 35mm2 earths from engine block and it cranks over mega fast now, so a combination of both poor batt and poor earth
Been chasing minor coolant leaks as a few joints are weeping when stood for a few days, no leaks when running and the system holds good pressure when tested. Cheap chinese silicone hoses for you, were ok years ago but the standards have dropped massively now.
Had the pleasure of calibrating the fuel gauge yesterday as had no idea how much fuel was in when low.
Drained the tank and gob full of fuel, fill 5ltr container, pour into tank, repeat, get covered in fuel etc. Worst job ever but done, been putting this off as i knew it was a s**t job. It said 5 ltrs left on last calibration and had about 3ltr in the tank so not the best. This time i stuck 5ltrs of fuel in and set that at 0 so it will always have a gallon if your really stuck. Stopped at 38ltrs as i ran out of fuel.
Its been out on the shopping run a few times recently and have clocked up 80 or so miles in total on the new setup and its running great. Just needs mapping now, have ordered Astra vxr blue 470cc injectors to replace the ancient saab reds in it and some fresh oil to change before.
Still love the retro stance
Seen my old Kangoo at my mates the other day when passing. Still looks clean, miss it a bit and still love the stance on the 2118s.
I was tempted to take it out but i knew it would be sat on the drive again if i did!
Thanks for reading!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Yesterdays job, change the o/s driveshaft on the 250. Inner joint was worn/dry and causing some vibration when pressing on. Ordered the shaft from autodoc, £140 for SNR/NTN which looks to be oem without the price tag.
Hate working on the meg3 suspension, but all went smoothly and done in a steady hour and half. Cleaned the inner arches up, greased brake pipes, oil changed for Elf 5/40.
Shell is so stiff as stock, both wheels up off the floor and same height.
Not road tested yet but hopefully job jobbed. If its right, next step will be intercooler and exhaust upgrade, and map to suit. Prob leave the cat in this one to save the chew come mot time.
Thanks for reading!
Hate working on the meg3 suspension, but all went smoothly and done in a steady hour and half. Cleaned the inner arches up, greased brake pipes, oil changed for Elf 5/40.
Shell is so stiff as stock, both wheels up off the floor and same height.
Not road tested yet but hopefully job jobbed. If its right, next step will be intercooler and exhaust upgrade, and map to suit. Prob leave the cat in this one to save the chew come mot time.
Thanks for reading!
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massiveCoRbyn
ClioSport Club Member
Several
Man I miss my Meg.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Not much to report, Extra van running in is going well though around 170miles done now.
Done quite a few basic adjustments to the ecu map, ign and fuelling, drives really well considering. Still not boosted it properly yet, but some footage on the way to Lidl last week
Had to tame the pops and bangs on overrun a little, as it was savage with ign cells at 0kpa set to 0.0 between 2.5-5k. Upped it to more realistic levels of ign at 0kpa and its a lot less asbo.
Bottomed out the original to do list too
In other news, i hit the switch the other night and bought a GTX2860r gen2. No idea if it will turn up before mapping. Will see!
Done quite a few basic adjustments to the ecu map, ign and fuelling, drives really well considering. Still not boosted it properly yet, but some footage on the way to Lidl last week
Had to tame the pops and bangs on overrun a little, as it was savage with ign cells at 0kpa set to 0.0 between 2.5-5k. Upped it to more realistic levels of ign at 0kpa and its a lot less asbo.
Bottomed out the original to do list too
In other news, i hit the switch the other night and bought a GTX2860r gen2. No idea if it will turn up before mapping. Will see!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Running in miles going well, 280 or so miles covered now. Ive been to outstanding places of local beauty last 2 nights in the North Yorkshire moores for exercise
In preperation for mapping i fitted the vxr blue 470cc injectors, recalibrated fuel table to suit and changed the oil and filter.
A quick pic next to this wall near me, love the industrial look
Another near my work to remind me that i will have to go back to work eventually note soot mark above side exit, its a bit richer on boost with the vxr injectors.
Today has been a good day, postman knocked at the door and my new turbo has arrived
Will store it for a rainy day, as i need a 76trim exhaust housing, new 70mm trumpet for my airfilter and silicone bend, which all runs into a few quid. Tempted to fit a tial rear housing with external wastegate.
Thanks for reading!
In preperation for mapping i fitted the vxr blue 470cc injectors, recalibrated fuel table to suit and changed the oil and filter.
A quick pic next to this wall near me, love the industrial look
Another near my work to remind me that i will have to go back to work eventually
note soot mark above side exit, its a bit richer on boost with the vxr injectors.Today has been a good day, postman knocked at the door and my new turbo has arrived
Will store it for a rainy day, as i need a 76trim exhaust housing, new 70mm trumpet for my airfilter and silicone bend, which all runs into a few quid. Tempted to fit a tial rear housing with external wastegate.
Thanks for reading!
