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Chris's 172 Cup Turbo



cjgower

ClioSport Club Member
They should match well if the shade is well matched, spray out cards are used and it’s blended into the next panel. Often shops don’t mix their own paint and order without checking the shade. Had it a couple of times sadly. New vs old paint is sometimes very obvious though so a machine polish on the older panel is a good idea. As both panels are metal I would expect them to have a perfect match. Plastic to metal is different and does often have slight differences.
Thanks Graham, just confirming what I thought. It matches the wings more closely than the doors which is odd. They are going to do the doors too, and what I’ll be left with (hopefully) is immaculate paint on pretty much 80% of the car.
 

GrahamS

ClioSport Club Member
Thanks Graham, just confirming what I thought. It matches the wings more closely than the doors which is odd. They are going to do the doors too, and what I’ll be left with (hopefully) is immaculate paint on pretty much 80% of the car.
That’s what ended up happening to me too, full respirated apart from the roof. Could have been avoided if the painter had got the base coat correct though
 

cjgower

ClioSport Club Member
The car is back from the paint shop, and I have sills again! exciting times.

It's also just passed it's MOT with no advisories so super happy with that.

Spent today giving it a clean after taking it out properly yesterday for the first time since August. Drives brilliantly with the fresh tyres, Cup suspension and new brakes.

Snapped some photos on the drive as didn't want to get it filthy again.

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Fresh tyres, brakes.

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Sills straightened and painted.

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Rust treated around fuel filler cap.

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10mm spacers FTW!

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cjgower

ClioSport Club Member
It’s been a few months. Not a lot to report on, but some plans moving forward. I’m considering getting a stealth exhaust as I’ve got a spare OEM cup bumper. Does anyone know if this will restrict flow and impact performance?

Also, what are people’s thoughts on the original badges? Not really sure I’ve been a fan of the de-badge/modern RS badge.
 

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frayz

ClioSport Club Member
Properly designed exhaust system of appropriate diameter shouldn’t have and negative effects on performance. How does it differ from what you have already?
Just exits behind the bumper as opposed to through it?
 

cjgower

ClioSport Club Member
Properly designed exhaust system of appropriate diameter shouldn’t have and negative effects on performance. How does it differ from what you have already?
Just exits behind the bumper as opposed to through it?
Yes that’s pretty much it, as far as I’m aware the rest of the system is identical except for the tip is slightly shorter and bends 90 degrees to point towards the floor. Based on that, that's a pretty good idea @Dr Jekyll
 

frayz

ClioSport Club Member
Honestly it wouldn't make a blind bit of difference.
I know its apples and oranges, but i specifically had a system made for my impreza that deliberately pointed the exhaust down to the ground to help with trackday noise and keep flames away from the bumper.
3" from front to back with 2 repackable race silencers and had 2 smooth flow 90 degree rads in it. Designed and built by Simpson Race Exhausts in Slough

91.5dB static and 87.5dB drive by.

Still flowed enough for over 580bhp

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cjgower

ClioSport Club Member
Plenty of time being spent on the Cup at the moment without much to do at the weekends. Finally getting round to things I've wanted to do for a long time.

Picked up a rear beam to start rebuilding and refurbing. Removed the whiteline rear arb for refurbishment. Got to wonder if this car was parked in the sea at some point? looks horrendous underneath.

Ordered new Whiteline bushes for the rear axel, PMS 10mm stub axel kit, rear braided lines. The plan is to completely overhaul the underside, treat any surface corrosion and make it squeaky clean. I can see this taking sometime...

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cjgower

ClioSport Club Member
Some more progress on the rear beam refurb. This will actually be the easiest part. The real pain will be getting the current one off and the underside cleaned and rust treated before this one goes back on.

Primed and sprayed black with a can, so I’m really happy with the results. Took hours of grinding and blasting beforehand though.


I’ve been working on a video that follows all progress so far in more detail which will be done by sunday


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cjgower

ClioSport Club Member
Fitted a new splitter yesterday. It’s a KTEC carbon fibre splitter but exactly the same shape as the genuine one that Renault want extortionate amounts for.

Not a fan of the carbon fibre as doesn’t really go with the OEM look I want. So sprayed it Matt black.

Hopefully this one holds up on the and doesn’t flake. Only time will tell I guess.
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npt

ClioSport Club Member
  BMW 320d- 172 cup
Fitted a new splitter yesterday. It’s a KTEC carbon fibre splitter but exactly the same shape as the genuine one that Renault want extortionate amounts for.

Not a fan of the carbon fibre as doesn’t really go with the OEM look I want. So sprayed it Matt black.

Hopefully this one holds up on the and doesn’t flake. Only time will tell I guess.
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Looks nice, where is best to get one? I have the Skoda one fitted but would prefer the original one if it's not to expensive
 

cjgower

ClioSport Club Member
Looks nice, where is best to get one? I have the Skoda one fitted but would prefer the original one if it's not to expensive
KTEC often have them on their website, but they are often in and out of stock. Might be worth emailing them or keep an eye out for a second hand one!


Clever idea. It will chip due to the position, but having a little carbon weave underneath showing through is no bad thing.
When you put it like that... agreed.
 
Looks nice and clean. Paint work looks decent. Are the prices reasonable at Rusthall? Might have to pay them a visit if they come recommended....
 

jameswrx

ClioSport Club Member
Can someone explain the reason for an anti roll bar and drop links connected to the same solid rear beam?

I’m no physics expert & prob being stoopid here but I’m struggling to see any benefit from the bar being clamped with U bolts to the beam and then the drop links being connected to (effectively) the same beam.
 

Radugns

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172 ph2
Can someone explain the reason for an anti roll bar and drop links connected to the same solid rear beam?

I’m no physics expert & prob being stoopid here but I’m struggling to see any benefit from the bar being clamped with U bolts to the beam and then the drop links being connected to (effectively) the same beam.
The beam is not that...solid. Adding more metal to it, it became stronger and less stretchable.
 

jameswrx

ClioSport Club Member
The beam is not that...solid. Adding more metal to it, it became stronger and less stretchable.
I had assumed it was more for stiffening the beam than than anything but then it begs the question can an anti roll bar bolted with U bolts and using drop links and bushes add stiffness to a beam? You’d imagine it’d move/flex way before the solid beam.

If that was the only requirement why not have a bar made up to go between the two bottom shock mounts and go directly across and have one solid ARB type of metal bar that’d prob still twist a bit. Maybe that’s too stiff?
 

frayz

ClioSport Club Member
Can someone explain the reason for an anti roll bar and drop links connected to the same solid rear beam?

I’m no physics expert & prob being stoopid here but I’m struggling to see any benefit from the bar being clamped with U bolts to the beam and then the drop links being connected to (effectively) the same beam.
The beam is a torsen bean and therefore twists to allow each side of the cars suspension to compress individually (up to a certain point).
The roll bar increases this torsional stiffness and subsequently reduces roll at the rear. Stiffening the rear alows more weight transfer across the front axle and has the effect of adding more front end grip compared to the rear.
 

frayz

ClioSport Club Member
I had assumed it was more for stiffening the beam than than anything but then it begs the question can an anti roll bar bolted with U bolts and using drop links and bushes add stiffness to a beam? You’d imagine it’d move/flex way before the solid beam.

If that was the only requirement why not have a bar made up to go between the two bottom shock mounts and go directly across and have one solid ARB type of metal bar that’d prob still twist a bit. Maybe that’s too stiff?
Because you only need an incremental increase in torsional stiffness to achieve the desired effect. Doing what you suggest would be far too stiff.
This is why many who add the PMS rear beam stiffening kit do not have the need to run a rear ARB. :)
 

cjgower

ClioSport Club Member
After taking off the rear beam I am presented with quite a bit of corrosion. Something I was expecting, but perhaps not to this level. My plan is to wire wheel off as much as possible, before treating with Bilt Hamber Deox and then finally using Electrox as a primer.

What are the options for having a coloured finish on top? If I get some Mondial Blue made up, and coat over the top with clear waxoil will this be ok?

Just not sure I want to undercoat the entire side of the car black, although it would probably be the easier option.

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RustyMojo

ClioSport Club Member
I wire brushed the underneath of mine treated and stone chipped then underseal. Was more worried about long term protection than colour matching, to be honest once you clean it all up the finish would be fairly poor unless you spent hours straightening out. Would love to have gone that route, but would want the car rolled on a jig to make it easier!
 

DomP182

ClioSport Club Member
  ph1 172, Arctic182
After taking off the rear beam I am presented with quite a bit of corrosion. Something I was expecting, but perhaps not to this level. My plan is to wire wheel off as much as possible, before treating with Bilt Hamber Deox and then finally using Electrox as a primer.

What are the options for having a coloured finish on top? If I get some Mondial Blue made up, and coat over the top with clear waxoil will this be ok?

Just not sure I want to undercoat the entire side of the car black, although it would probably be the easier option.

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Looks the same as mine did, I used a knotted wheel in a grinder, coated in hydrate 80 then electrox as I had it lying around. After that several coats of dynax ub
 


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