Chris's 172 Cup Turbo

[cjgower]

Nice mate. Where did you find that?.

Thanks mate. Was posted up for sale on the ‘Megane R26 Owners UK’ on Facebook and by chance I was the first to message the guy. Picked it up from Essex way.

 

[imprezaworks]

Nice. I keep my eye out on the megane forum, although it's quiet on there. Not on Facebook.

Was if sensible ish money

 

[cjgower]

I was looking on there too but found the same. Then joined a few pages on Facebook and there seemed to be a fair few coming up for grabs. Couple of nice LY’s on there recently at around 7 or just under.

It was up for £8k. Strong but not ridiculous in the current climate.

 

[imprezaworks]

Not at all. Specially with the miles.

 

[Kyle 86]

Not that I persuaded you or found this gem for you [emoji23] I take full responsibility [emoji85] if the missus wants to point the finger at anyone here i am [emoji23][emoji23]

Well happy for you my man

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[npt]

Really like a white r26! Only downside for me is the dash is ugly and they are a pain to work on, very nice though 👌

 

[cjgower]

Haven't had a chance to really drive the Cup in about 3 months now. It's not as good as the Megane, but I can't bring myself to sell it at the moment.

It's got its charms and I do genuinely miss driving it. The plan is to sort suspension early 2022 with the view to take the Clio on track.

In the meantime, I've been busy enjoying the Megane. Video is a bit long but might interest some.

 

[imprezaworks]

Will watch it later 👍

 

[cjgower]

Bolster wear…. Is there anything that can be down to limit this for now?

Trying my best not to cause more wear when getting in and out of the car.

 

[dave120]

Bolster wear…. Is there anything that can be down to limit this for now?

Trying my best not to cause more wear when getting in and out of the car.View attachment 1567492

Nightmare isnt it! I think all Cup owners worry about this. Im not even sure a seat cover would help as it would probably still rub the material of the seat.

 

[cjgower]

Nightmare isnt it! I think all Cup owners worry about this. Im not even sure a seat cover would help as it would probably still rub the material of the seat.

I know! I am not going to worry too much. If it happens, it happens. But if I can prevent it I will!

 

[R3k1355]

Just have a new patch put in when the time comes?

Otherwise have you tried moving the seat back to let you get in easier? I've found that helps in certain cars.

 

[cjgower]

Just have a new patch put in when the time comes?

Otherwise have you tried moving the seat back to let you get in easier? I've found that helps in certain cars.

Yes, probably the best bet to be fair. And no, haven't tried that but will do. Losing weight would probably help too

 

[cjgower]

It's been 6 months since I updated this!

The car was SORN up until the start of this month, whilst it has been given a few upgrades.

- Powerflex wishbones fitted
- Inner/outer bushes fitted to the front anti-roll bar
- brand new 280mm bracket/Brembo setup from PMS.
- NS2R's all-round - very impressed by these for the money.
- Second-hand Sabelt wheel with Volantech harness

I'd been a bit indifferent about the Cup since the Megane came along, but the car performed so well at Brands Hatch last night. This is the best it's ever been and I've fallen in love with it all over again. Will be booking some more track time for this year, but first, I think I need an oil cooler to control temps on track.

 

[cjgower]

Another update and a few more modifications have been added.

Top mounts were knackered, as were the D-Bushes on the front anti-roll bar, so it made sense to powerflex and fit OEM top mounts. Everything that can be powerflexed has been, and the turn-in is brilliant.

Fitted an Oil cooler in preparation for Snetterton. Was a pretty hot day and coolant temps were still surging along Bentley going into Brundle. Spent a lot of the day changing up early to counteract this, essentially nullifying any performance advantage added by the extra power. Apart from that, it was a brilliant day.

Managed a 2:29. Only my second time on track, first time at Snett. No idea if that's decent or not.

So... is it time to go back to N/A? how have others combatted high track temps? I could fit a turbo jacket, bonnet scoop, and alloy radiator but unsure whether just to go a different route at this time.

 

[Brigsy]

How hot is hot regarding coolant temps? What radiator are you running, later style with a handful of larger bars or the oem type with smaller but more bars? The oem style cool better @Adey. has just had similar issues and the oem style rad made a fair difference. Also the ducting to rad/intercooler pack makes a difference so air is forced directly through it and not escaping around the intercooler/rad core, so worth looking at that if its missing.

 

[Adey.]

As above, my replacement oem style (but with larger bars) rad was fine on the road but struggled on track and hots days with high ambient temps. I've swapped out to an external thermostatic oil cooler and ali rad but in the oem style lots of fins and I've dropped temp instantly, Not tried it on track yet but 35 degrees on hard boost for a long time still sees 90ish degree water temps rather than climbing quickly and having to back it off. I also made sure the rad is paneled in to force air through it.

 

[cjgower]

Thank you @Brigsy @Adey.

Seems pretty clear that the next step is to ensure air is flowing directly into the radiator and that secondly, I have a decent radiator setup. I'll address these first, book another day, and see how it goes.

The OE ducting on the rear of the bumper is missing for sure, so that likely didn't help.

 

[Brigsy]

I recently refitted the lower bumper tray under the intercooler on the Trophy. Made a fair difference to charge temps as before with the air escaping around the core it was 8-9deg above ambient temp, and now its 5deg above ambient.

Well worth refitting as much ducting as poss as air is lazy and takes the easiest route instead of forced through the rad pack.

 

[GrahamS]

Looking good sir!

I didn't have any issues with temp in the turbo. IIRC, had a 10 row oil cooler which wasn't thermostatically controlled, 75 degree stat (although doesn't make difference once up to temp) and direzza rad. Mine had a megane headgasket which is meant to keep cylinder temperatures down but other than that nothing special should be required. Turbo will be putting a LOT of heat into the system. The direzza rad it about 40% larger core compared to standard when I did the calcs.

 

[cjgower]

Very much torn at the moment between selling one of the cars.

R26 or Cup. R26 is a better car from stock, but I've spent a lot this year making the Cup good for track use.

Next year I'd like to do 4 or 5 track days. In which one? I'm not sure yet.

Looking back at this thread which started in 2015, 3 years after purchasing my first Cup, it feels like it might be time to move on and focus on the R26 and free up some cash. Might be up for sale at the weekend.

 

[cjgower]

The cup will be up for sale at the weekend. Will be listing a full advert on here as well as FB, eBay, the usual.

The Megane will be staying and funds from the sale will be going towards another project. Whatever that may be...

 

[cjgower]

Some may have seen that both cars are up for sale at the moment, to release money for a single-car project that I've wanted to build for some time.

The Clio is priced pretty competitively https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255990326388

The Megane is priced fairly strongly, but it's difficult to really gauge as there aren't many up for sale on the same mileage. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255996090587

Happy to entertain offers on either at this point.

 

[imprezaworks]

Love the Mégane. For that money it's 250 territory...

 

[cjgower]

Both sold about a month ago now. Have started a new project thread here.

 

[cjgower]

Back in a Cup. Wasn't sure whether to start a new thread or carry this one on. This is the 4th Cup I’ve owned - never had a 182/172, and I am hoping, this is the one I keep.

Finding nice, original cars is getting tricky. Especially ones that are OEM or near to it.

So, here enters RN03CUP, Completely OEM minus a sports cat, 99k miles, 6 previous owners. All in, a pretty good car. Plus a cool plate.

The plan is to make this OEM+. It’s due a refresh in terms of brakes and suspension, as well as a good clean, but there will be no turbos this time.

 

[cjgower]

Started stripping off panels today. I know where these cars turn crusty, as many of us do. So it’s important to treat them whilst they’re still not all that bad. Things look ok to be honest.

Will be dropping the subframe and getting some new suspension too. Torn between OEM Cup shocks or Billsteins.

 

[Colin-S]

You gonna be doing a youtube series on this one Chris?

 

[cjgower]

You gonna be doing a youtube series on this one Chris?

Yes mate I will be. I tried with the 200, but my heart just wasn’t in it. The Cup is where it’s at

 

[npt]

Look forward to it, my one is what they call oem+ I think 😂 just finished another quick refresh of the underside, did it 8yrs ago and it held up pretty good tbh with the bilt hamber wax, one thing not to do is powdercoat anything, it simply falls apart, properly applied paint is much better, prepare to spend too much 😁

 

[The Chubby Pirate]

Yes mate I will be. I tried with the 200, but my heart just wasn’t in it. The Cup is where it’s at

I’ve had 8 RS Clio’s and the 200 i had was my least favourite, shortest time i kept a motor as well.

 

[cjgower]

Went into full strip down mode at the weekend to check the car over. All seems pretty good to be honest. I don’t plan on driving the car again this year, so it’s full steam ahead with getting stuff tidy.

Radiator looks to be in really good shape, and the alternator is new. Good to see all the original parts here too. Will be keeping all of this and just giving it a tidy up. Bits of the the loom are shoddy so will need wrapping properly.

Some corrosion but nothing some Bilt Hamber Deox can’t sort.

Then it was time for the dreaded rear door cards. No visible signs on the outside. Pleased that there’s zero rust in the passenger side and a tiny patch on the drivers which looks as if it can be stopped.

Also took the rear bumper off too for a tidy up. Will be dropping the rear beam next - undecided on whether I’ll take the brackets off too - those captive nuts are horrendous. Cheers for looking.

 

[npt]

Just use a nut splitter to take them off, it will damage the bolts but it's easier if heavily corroded, they like to rust under them brackets

 

[Jekyll]

New rivnuts/welded captive nuts will make this much more easier and durable for the future.

 

[cjgower]

Aiming to have a good go at working on the car over Christmas. I've booked Spa in April 2024, so need to get a move on.

Bits ordered so far for the car:

- New OEM Cup dampers from RPD.
- PMS Stuble axle spacer kit.
- PMS front 10mm spacers.
- PBS Pro Race front pads.
- Brembo HC front discs.
- Braided front and rear lines.
- Nankang NS2R's
- Powerflex bushes - wishbones, steering rack, inner/outter arb, rear beam mounting bushes, dogbone mount.

Still to buy:

- Cooksport OR Grams lowering springs.
- PMS rear arb.
- Solid top mounts. (nice to have)
- Solid engine mounts. (nice to have)

Things do add up don't they

 

[bowen86]

Glad to see you're back in a mk2! Will keep my eyes peeled for the YouTube videos!

 

[cjgower]

Glad to see you're back in a mk2! Will keep my eyes peeled for the YouTube videos!

Cheers dude. Will defo get back on the YouTube for the assembly part. Probably not for the strip down. Dreading some of the bolts on the underside.

 

[cjgower]

So, as suspected, it wasn’t plain sailing. I’ve got all but one bolt out for the front subframe.

Picture below is taken from the forum. Obviously, it’s a mess - but to get the 18mm bolt out (it’s snapped) and the other side which is spinning.

I have got the one that’s spinning out by using a breaker bar and leveraging between the chassis and the subframe. Doing it up is going to be tricky. Is making a hole here my only option?

Some have said you can replace the nut/cage inside the chassis rail without making any cuts or holes. But how the heck do you get access?

 

[Mr Underhill]

So, as suspected, it wasn’t plain sailing. I’ve got all but one bolt out for the front subframe.

Picture below is taken from the forum. Obviously, it’s a mess - but to get the 18mm bolt out (it’s snapped) and the other side which is spinning.

I have got the one that’s spinning out by using a breaker bar and leveraging between the chassis and the subframe. Doing it up is going to be tricky. Is making a hole here my only option?

Some have said you can replace the nut/cage inside the chassis rail without making any cuts or holes. But how the heck do you get access?

When I was restoring mine, I got 3 out but there’s always one. It was so bad I ended up taking the engine out. A bit extreme but I was getting so frustrated with it I didn’t want to end up butchering it.

With the engine out I managed to get a ring spanner on it, but even that was a pain.

I invested in new captive nuts so some poor soul wouldn’t have to go through it again.

 

[cjgower]

When I was restoring mine, I got 3 out but there’s always one. It was so bad I ended up taking the engine out. A bit extreme but I was getting so frustrated with it I didn’t want to end up butchering it.

With the engine out I managed to get a ring spanner on it, but even that was a pain.

I invested in new captive nuts so some poor soul wouldn’t have to go through it again.

Thanks mate. I’ve seen your resto on your 182. Looks awesome and has served as part of the inspiration for me doing the same.

I didn’t actually realise you could access them from the engine bay side.

I’m not one for botching either. I won’t be cutting anything now I know I have access. If the engine has to come out, so be it!