Does anyone know the volvo mount part number. I.e not 7700718613
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Turns lock to lock = speed of the rack
This is getting way too complicated - ignore everything you've just read about stops and s**t.
The DCi and Cup racks take 2.7 turns to go from lock to lock so are QUICK - all the other clio racks take 3.25 or more so are slower. There is no difference in the amount of lock you get just the speed you get from one to another.
Just been sent the wrong rack from a seller on eBay. Was listed as suitable for a dci but is 3.25 turns.
Not sure if that's cause they have mixed them up or if some dci are 2.75 and some 3.25
Part number on it so people know one to avoid is:
69 00 000 236
6002360175770
it also says <373> on it which I guess is possible refers to the turns lock to lock with the stops in? Or might just be an arbitrary number.
Need to to source the correct one now.
Bummer.
That's why I ended up driving to renparts - could try a load off their shelves as they usually have a dozen or so in stock.
_WILL_
ClioSport Club Member
172 Cup
That's why I ended up driving to renparts - could try a load off their shelves as they usually have a dozen or so in stock.
eBay is always a bit of a gamble with this sort or thing. If I was closer I could have done the same a Phil. I was lucky tho and got a never been used, second hand one off eBay, took a punt on it and got it for 60 quid.
I hadnt noticed, but it was actually renparts that I bought it from.
I messaged on ebay to say its the wrong number of turns, and they said they are happy to send me out a 2.75 one
Going to see if I can pop up on saturday morning and swap it over in person to save them the postage as they were so reasonable about it
I messaged on ebay to say its the wrong number of turns, and they said they are happy to send me out a 2.75 one
Going to see if I can pop up on saturday morning and swap it over in person to save them the postage as they were so reasonable about it
You could as it's just a 12v ignition feed that turns the EPAS Ecu on - but to be honest you don't need to as the control box from Ebay comes with an adjustor knob and turned totally down it's virtually off. And it's near impossible to turn the car lol
Also FYI it's not a pump - it's an ecu controlled electric motor
Also FYI it's not a pump - it's an ecu controlled electric motor
Its adjustable so you can set it with the amount of assistance that you require.
In both cases its not "fly by wire" or anything like that, so you are still physically connected directly to the road wheels mechanically, the assistance just has the effect of damping the feedback out to an extent (an adjustable extent for the electric version).
That won't work
The ebay box doesn't just allow you to alter the assistance level.
It fakes the speed sensor and angle sensor inputs that the EPAS ECU would normally get from the column
You see in a normal 1.2/1.4 it would give more assistance at slow speeds than high speeds - but because in the conversion those sensors don't exist it won't work.
They aren't just simple resistors either.
The ebay box doesn't just allow you to alter the assistance level.
It fakes the speed sensor and angle sensor inputs that the EPAS ECU would normally get from the column
You see in a normal 1.2/1.4 it would give more assistance at slow speeds than high speeds - but because in the conversion those sensors don't exist it won't work.
They aren't just simple resistors either.
Just install the adjustment knob out of site and put a switch on the live to the control box then. Or if you want to save a few grams then install a fixed resistor of whatever value you want for assistance in place of the control knob connected to the eBay control box.
as above though I see no point removing the option for adjustment.
Indeed as I just said, lol.
Just fit it, adjust to where you want, then measure the resistance on the adjuster knob and fit that value resistor.
The Renault ECU (as opposed to the ebay one) adjusts based on vehicle speed (not sure on the clio but on corsa its engine speed too)
The eBay box gives you an adjustment knob which then fakes the vehicle inputs to the renault ECU to tell it to add more or less resistance, ie if you want a lot of resistance it makes it think you are going fast etc.
Agreed, if you are parrelel parking or manouvreing it around at home etc then whack it on full, road use on 3/4 and track use on half (or whatever specific values you think feel nice)
Its a god send for pushing a car about with a dead or absent engine too! lol
You don't want that, lower model Clio's steering is horrific.
The eBay box of tricks is what you want.
If you were going to do it at all you would want to use the original setup and then a pulse converter that allows you to dial out some of the pulses so you can make it give less assist.
Complicated though compared to just an adjuster knob you can buy off the shelf!
You should be able to, although I believe on a 172 cup you risk not having many threads in the rod ends, but not tried on a cup myself so cant comment and depends what you personally feel is safe, id be happy with only 20mm or so for example.
172
Yes you can, I did no problems but mine isnt a Cup.
Id definitely keep the adjustor - had it set to 30/40% on track, but some sections of cadwell were too tight, and also found when the back end kicked out it was too hard to get opposite lock on - so added more.
It's definitely handy being able to set it to whatever suits the circuit most.
It's definitely handy being able to set it to whatever suits the circuit most.
Yeah suppose you never want no power assist as you will struggle on the slow corners.
CRX,205,Type S,172..
First off all just got to say Hello from Croatia
I've done this setup quite some time ago... Left my 172 rack on the car, just piped the holes on it...
everything works great, except one thing...when the assistance is set to very high asistance, when the wheels are on the ground and the car isn't moving or is moving slowly 20-30/mph when quickly turning the steering wheel from lef to right (like slalom) the steering becomes quite harder (not that it looses assistance completly...the assistance feels like fading)
But it's fading right away not after a few left-right turns...
So i was thinking if any of you guys that have this fitted could try if that is the case in your cars... I just need you to start up the car in your garage set the assistance to full and try to quickly turn wheel from left to right to left...
Just to show you why i need that much of assistance and why the fading is the problem
(this is me if friends 182 on a Croatia slalom championship ....i've driven his car on that event, cause the "unbreakable" gripper diff broke on my few days earlier) :-D
http://youtu.be/HfN6Gui4qZo
I've done this setup quite some time ago... Left my 172 rack on the car, just piped the holes on it...
everything works great, except one thing...when the assistance is set to very high asistance, when the wheels are on the ground and the car isn't moving or is moving slowly 20-30/mph when quickly turning the steering wheel from lef to right (like slalom) the steering becomes quite harder (not that it looses assistance completly...the assistance feels like fading)
But it's fading right away not after a few left-right turns...
So i was thinking if any of you guys that have this fitted could try if that is the case in your cars... I just need you to start up the car in your garage set the assistance to full and try to quickly turn wheel from left to right to left...
Just to show you why i need that much of assistance and why the fading is the problem
(this is me if friends 182 on a Croatia slalom championship ....i've driven his car on that event, cause the "unbreakable" gripper diff broke on my few days earlier) :-D
http://youtu.be/HfN6Gui4qZo
I'm tempted by this conversion as my pump whines a lot these days and lately the power steering seems intermittent at low revs, I also suspect my rack has some play in it. I've had a quick read through the thread but there is just one thing holding me back at the moment.
Most people here have a 172 Cup whereas I have a 172 FF, how does the aux belt set up work in this scenario? If somebody can tell me this I think I'll crack on with the conversion.
Many thanks.
Most people here have a 172 Cup whereas I have a 172 FF, how does the aux belt set up work in this scenario? If somebody can tell me this I think I'll crack on with the conversion.
Many thanks.
182 Trophy
I've read most of this thread, but a few things are still a little unclear...
How much slower is the DCI rack than the standard one?
If it's slower, Did anyone ever find a rack that was just as quick?
How have people gotten on with looped PAS racks?
What is required to loop the rack and can it be done in situ?
Does the bracket setup listed in the PDF guide work ok with a aircon model alternator?
How much slower is the DCI rack than the standard one?
If it's slower, Did anyone ever find a rack that was just as quick?
How have people gotten on with looped PAS racks?
What is required to loop the rack and can it be done in situ?
Does the bracket setup listed in the PDF guide work ok with a aircon model alternator?
