EPAS on 172 Cup

[_WILL_]

Just saying, the twingo rack DOES fit pictures to follow

Really? Is it faster?

 

[Fred@BTM]

Same ratio as stock (2.5 is it?) better than the mum's version! Identical rack and pinion gear!

 

[GrahamS]

http://www.tscarshow.com/product.php?a=viewclass&classid=30&page=5#

pins , connectors below, 4th one down

http://www.tscarshow.com/product.php?a=viewclass&classid=32&page=12

 

[Cup_Phil]

Just saying, the twingo rack DOES fit pictures to follow

I can't wait to see the pics - I'm kinda toying with selling my mint Twingo rack to get some pennies back for fuel at Cadwell, but I'm also half tempted to whack it on as it's a hell of a lot stronger than the DCi on

 

[_WILL_]

Do you really think the twingo rack is a lot stronger? I am pretty happy with the dci rack.

I am halfway thorough the conversion. Got old rack off without dropping subframe or anything. Just cut the pipes and pulled it out. Column in tomorrow, job done. Go for a drive.

Has anyone been looking into the faster rack conversion, think it was mentioned earlier in the thread? I would be interested if there was a group buy!!

 

[MG cup]

Definately stronger in construction, the rack part of the mechanism looks a lot thicker than DCI and I bet the pinion is too. Quaife done one at some point but they no longer do, if we could get say 10 interested they will normally have some made up though.

 

[GrahamS]

The dci will more than suffice. It's just a little smaller as it has no fluid and other bits. Remember, it's the tie rods which as designed to go before the rack so I can never imagine having a problem.

The 182 isn't a great deal heavier than the dci. I'm happy with my dci (jolly hope it doesn't bust now )

 

[_WILL_]

Surely the bit most likely to fail on a rack is the mounting points, and probably the one nearest the pinion, where both the racks are cast ali?

The twingo rack is beefier as it is all cast, so I'm an not sure it is stronger. Plus if the steal fails it should bend first and so might give some warning, Ali will crack. No warning! But as said ball joints will fail first and I imagine the safety cases were the same for both dci and 1*2 so I do think there is an issue.

Bit that interests me most is the speed of the rack. If twingo is the same I ain't changing. As for a group buy I am very interested, but it's price dependent. Does anyone have any info on the old ones that used to be made?

 

[GrahamS]

Think the mounting bolts are high tensile. Because the ball joints are so easily moved there really is very little impact on the rack other than if you hit a curb or something. I really have no worry at all. I'm driving the ring later in the year so if there's no problem there I imagine there never will be!

 

[MG cup]

My worry is the serviceable life on track, original rack or the twingo look to be a definite upgrade over the DCI jobbie but I'm sure you'll be fine.

 

[_WILL_]

Conversion done. Wasn't too bad.

In summary: I didn't drop the subframe and I didn't remove the dash ( just the cowl ). So far I am very happy with the results. I am going from a knackered hpas rack to a brand new dci rack so in comparison the steering now feels "electric". I have not strung the car yet so alignment is out a bit so I am going to leave full judgment until it is sorted.

Generally I'm very happy.

 

[Cup_Phil]

Yeah after a week or two with mine - I've strung the car, put 1.5mm of toe out on the front, -3 degrees camber, -2.3 degrees on the rear - it's completely a different car.
Loads of grip there that wasn't before and I'm absolutely loving being able to turn the assistance almost completely off when giving it some beans - the feedback through the steering is brilliant, it's exactly what was missing on the old setup!

 

[Chip-mk1]

Unless you are planning on rallying the car is strength of the rack actually an issue?

would have thought it was a case of lighter is better on a track TBH as they are all strong anyway.

 

[Cup_Phil]

That was my thoughts - the weight saving with the DCi rack is cool.
Fred apparently has bent a DCi rack though.... I would guess he was running slicks and driving like a lunatic at the time though

 

[marshall878]

Hope the twingo/dci rack is stronger than the 200's one :quiet:

 

[Cup_Phil]

Hahahahah shushh you

 

[Chip-mk1]

That was my thoughts - the weight saving with the DCi rack is cool.
Fred apparently has bent a DCi rack though.... I would guess he was running slicks and driving like a lunatic at the time though

I think you'd need to make a pretty big error on track to bend one, even with slicks.

 

[_WILL_]

I think the track rods would go first as was mentioned before, plus I think that people are seeing the twingo rack as being bigger and bulkier so assume stronger. It's cast aluminium so it has to be compared to the steel dci rack.

On a different note this is the location I have chosen for the adjuster. I think it is quite OEM looking.



Plus also I have found the aux belt is narrower, one less tooth, have I got the right one?

 

[Cup_Phil]

Yeah that's the right belt - James found that if you run a 6 rib one it rubs on the plastic cover
However you really need to move it over a tooth so it sits furthest away or it will rub away at the cover

That's exactly where I wanted to put my adjuster but my electric window switches are there lol

 

[NorthloopCup]

I put my assistance adjuster knob in the plastic surround for the handbrake. It sits under the handbrake very nicely and gives easy access to do any adjustment without the need to reach forward.
Strapped in a bucket seat = can't reach for jack s**t! Lol

 

[_WILL_]

However you really need to move it over a tooth so it sits furthest away or it will rub away at the cover

Which cover? Bottom of the cam belt somewhere? It's no further over than the original belt. I will have a check and move it over if required.

Also there is a connector that was connected to the pas hose, it was close to the pump. It is now just sat in the engine "loose!" What did this read pas pressure or temp or what?? It's odd as disconnecting doesn't give a warning light or anything?

 

[Cup_Phil]

On the bottom pulley - the standard belt goes down and under the water pump - this belt is now going up to the alternator so it rubs on the cambelt cover
That's why you use a 5 rib belt - so the inside rib on the pulleys is empty and the belt doesn't rub

It's the pas pressure light - it is weird that removing it doesn't make a light come on
I chopped mine off - but I've hacked most of my engine wiring loom to bits for the bodies lol
If you want a less "point of no return" solution - just tape the connector up to stop crap getting in it and cable tie it out the way

 

[_WILL_]

Okay, I will move the belt tonight. Switch will just be left in but cable tied out of the way.

 

[Fred@BTM]

I think you'd need to make a pretty big error on track to bend one, even with slicks.

Not on slicks, and no error, The Hunter was in the car! Did a pair of inner rods, 1 rose joint, 1 set of F4R pads 2 rear bearings and bent the rack that day LOL

 

[Tony Hunter]

Wondered if I would get the blame for that one.

 

[Fred@BTM]

excess weight

 

[Tony Hunter]

Oh right!

 

[Cup_Phil]

Not on slicks, and no error, The Hunter was in the car! Did a pair of inner rods, 1 rose joint, 1 set of F4R pads 2 rear bearings and bent the rack that day LOL

Fecking hell!

If you're gonne break it - might as well do it properly lol

 

[Fred@BTM]

2nd and 3rd synchro took a beating too, car hasn't moved since

 

[MG cup]

Not on slicks, and no error, The Hunter was in the car! Did a pair of inner rods, 1 rose joint, 1 set of F4R pads 2 rear bearings and bent the rack that day LOL

I like this, similar list to mine from last trackday. Driving at 7/10ths was you.

 

[Fred@BTM]

just pottering, then i saw a demo car from a "certain company" so proceeded to lap it..............twice

 

[Tony Hunter]

Indeed.

 

[MG cup]

Haha:race::butt: C YA

 

[GrahamS]

Bit late. Will, that's where I'm going to relocate my control knob. Your knob is nicer than mine!
I'm trying my third belt now, I'll get there!

My dci survived miles of cobbles. My worries about the longevity could not be smaller. I am also running a brand spanker of a new one as well. The car will be in pieces or in a hedge before it wears out.

 

[Chip-mk1]

Not on slicks, and no error, The Hunter was in the car! Did a pair of inner rods, 1 rose joint, 1 set of F4R pads 2 rear bearings and bent the rack that day LOL

rose joint?

If there is play in joints it transmits shock loads to break other things which might explain why so much broke.

 

[MG cup]

rose joint?

If there is play in joints it transmits shock loads to break other things which might explain why so much broke.

I think he will have broke the rose joint on the rear coilover if its his dynacup, there known for breaking?!?

 

[Cup_Phil]

Had my first actual track session last night at Cadwell and have to say the EPAS is amazing. So worth the money as an upgrade, the improved feedback is awesome!

 

[GrahamS]

Finished off the car last night. Drove it out the garage and I hear this noise. It's when I'm steering as you can see. Sounds like a vibration. Any ideas welcome as I'm 100% lacking any spare time to try and find this gremlin and need the car in a week!

 

[GrahamS]

Here it is

[video]http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee392/grazo22/7C6C0322-919A-4001-805A-F3A180A37F97-4481-00000476FB8B8B20_zps26632b70.mp4[/video]

 

[Cup_Phil]

The rubber seal at the bottom of the column - give it a push down, make sure it's as far down as it will go

Mine was about an inch too high and made the exact same noise