Ferodo DS1.11 v DSUNO?

[JB21]

Anyone ran both? Have ran the DS1's but not the DSUNO's which look beastly on the coefficient charts below. Not sure they'd be as kind on discs and last as long as the DS1's though. Currently got DS2500 but had them fade pretty easily on a recent spirited drive out. Pads would only be used on track with OE pads doing the daily stuff.

https://www.ferodoracing.com/products/car-racing/racing-brake-pads/dsuno/

 

[Greeny.]

Ill be trying a set of fronts and rears of these next, especially as they are £186 posted for fronts AND rears, I paid nearly that just for my CL6 fronts.

 

[JB21]

Ill be trying a set of fronts and rears of these next, especially as they are £186 posted for fronts AND rears, I paid nearly that just for my CL6 fronts.

View attachment 1377679

Look a little to aggressive for the Clio at neat 0.6 MU. I had the RC8's with similar coefficient and they were terrible. Far to aggressive with little modulation. Saying that the graphs don't always give a true reflection of performance IMO. I was sceptical about the DS1.11 being under 0.5 MU but they are fantastic in the Clio.

 

[Greeny.]

How much are the DSUNO's?

Im still trying to find a set that gives me the same feel I used to have with my PF97's as I can't buy them anymore

 

[JamesBryan]

The PBS's are mega for the Clio. Running them front and rear really does balance it out.

I know a guy who ran the DSUNO and DS1.11 in his Megane and said they were identical stopping power wise.

DSUNO are more aggressive on discs though and used half the pad in a day.

 

[JB21]

The PBS's are mega for the Clio. Running them front and rear really does balance it out.

I know a guy who ran the DSUNO and DS1.11 in his Megane and said they were identical stopping power wise.

DSUNO are more aggressive on discs though and used half the pad in a day.

Answer I was looking for mate ?

 

[JamesBryan]

Answer I was looking for mate ?

Worth running an uprated pad in the rear too on the Octavia.

 

[White16valver]

oooh, graphs... I like graphs...

I'm not sure if Hawk do Renault fitment but I like their HP+ a lot on the road - awesome initial bite, even when stone cold. I can't vouch for them when hot, though, as I don't generally drive that fast / brake that hard, but they have a decent range to choose from.

They've taken the graph off their website now but I saved a copy for future reference:

I also liked Pagid Blue (RS4-2, I think) and CL RC5+ on the Clio - both were grippy from cold but strong when hot.

 

[JB21]

Worth running an uprated pad in the rear too on the Octavia.

Yeah bloody expensive at £130 for rear ds2500's. Cant find anything else though.

 

[JamesBryan]

Yeah bloody expensive at £130 for rear ds2500's. Cant find anything else though.

Be worth it though.

 

[Usr117063]

That dtc-70 curve... What sort of cars would use that, nascar?

 

[JB21]

That dtc-70 curve... What sort of cars would use that, nascar?

Something heavy I'd expect.

 

[PhillipM]

You can't compare friction graphs between manufacturers, they all use different test sequences, pressures, velocities, etc, to get their figures.
Hell, they're only a rough guide between compounds for the same manufacturer too.

The fact that all the Hawk graphs drop to zero friction coefficient before and after the working temperature should tell you how accurate that PR fluff is.

I'd be amazed if you didn't get on with 1.11 vs 2500 - they're better everywhere, even clap cold. Better modulation too.

 

[Djw John]

2500 are the most overrated pads around.
3000 were good but didn't last at all
1.11 I'm delighted with.

I'm a heavy braker (according to @Djw Dave anyway!) and when the 1.11 eventually wear out I'll be replacing them with the same.

 

[bloke]

oooh, graphs... I like graphs...

I'm not sure if Hawk do Renault fitment but I like their HP+ a lot on the road - awesome initial bite, even when stone cold. I can't vouch for them when hot, though, as I don't generally drive that fast / brake that hard, but they have a decent range to choose from.

i'd rather eat my own shite than get in a car with those excuse of a brake pad fitted!!!!!

had a set of them with a 4 pot kit i fitted, bearing in mind was a full kit, callipers, bells, rotors etc. not sure what actual spec the pads were but with a kit you'd expect something that would be half decent at least.

went out to bed them in and christ they were terrible, without a doubt the worst brake pad i've come across in over 30 years and i've used some cheap nasty shite in that time, even if they were their completely standard pad they weren't fit for use. shat myself within about 1/4 of a mile and brough the car back, nearly ran into the back of half a dozen cars as well.

took the pads out and they were like graphite, that smooth i rubbed them on my cheek and felt just about nothing from them. chucked a set of £51 ds1.11 in and they were great and yes...ds1.11 front pads for £51!!!!!

 

[JB21]

Gonna go with what i know in the DS1.11's, DS2500's in the rear. Should stop the barge pretty well.

 

[White16valver]

i'd rather eat my own shite than get in a car with those excuse of a brake pad fitted!!!!!

had a set of them with a 4 pot kit i fitted, bearing in mind was a full kit, callipers, bells, rotors etc. not sure what actual spec the pads were but with a kit you'd expect something that would be half decent at least.

went out to bed them in and christ they were terrible, without a doubt the worst brake pad i've come across in over 30 years and i've used some cheap nasty shite in that time, even if they were their completely standard pad they weren't fit for use. shat myself within about 1/4 of a mile and brough the car back, nearly ran into the back of half a dozen cars as well.

took the pads out and they were like graphite, that smooth i rubbed them on my cheek and felt just about nothing from them. chucked a set of £51 ds1.11 in and they were great and yes...ds1.11 front pads for £51!!!!!

Weird - I find them very confidence-inspiring on the road, the bite is always there and they always feel strong. When I first had them in I found them as 'grindy' at low speeds as RC5+. When (if...) I ever get my engine sorted so I can actually drive quickly, I'll have to report back on higher-temperature work.

 

[Usr117063]

@bloke got given the compound that needs at least 300F before they start to work. You should of kept braking you would of been sent into orbit shortly after!

 

[bloke]

don't know exactly what ones they were but drove it for enough to start getting heat in them and there was literally no braking effort whatsoever. genuinely nearly rear ended a few people. i know some can be a bit naff until you've got them hot but these were that bad if you'd thrown them into the sun i doubt that would of got them hot enough to do anything!!

driven minis with naff drum brakes that were better.

 

[Kev@KAM]

You can't compare friction graphs between manufacturers, they all use different test sequences, pressures, velocities, etc, to get their figures.
Hell, they're only a rough guide between compounds for the same manufacturer too.

The fact that all the Hawk graphs drop to zero friction coefficient before and after the working temperature should tell you how accurate that PR fluff is.

I'd be amazed if you didn't get on with 1.11 vs 2500 - they're better everywhere, even clap cold. Better modulation too.

No manufacturer really wants their pads to be compared to another brand so there will never be a standard set
It gives an indication but testing is really the only way to find a set that works best. One that works for one person, will not for another. Theres a reason why I sell about 8 different ranges of pads!

 

[JB21]

No manufacturer really wants their pads to be compared to another brand so there will never be a standard set
It gives an indication but testing is really the only way to find a set that works best. One that works for one person, will not for another. Theres a reason why I sell about 8 different ranges of pads!

Agreed, think I went through most pads available for the Clio DS2500, DS3000, Mintex 1144, 1155, Carbone Lorraine RC5+, RC8 etc and was never really happy with any of them, tried the DS1.11 last and they were the one, lol.

 

[RMDavis]

Gonna go with what i know in the DS1.11's, DS2500's in the rear. Should stop the barge pretty well.

This is the same setup I've just fitted to the Trophy, and the performance is very impressive!

A fair bit of squeal when you dab the brakes, pulling up to traffic etc but I suppose that's the price you pay for tracks pads when used on the road.

Can't wait to see how well they perform round Blyton end of the month!

 

[Djw John]

I couldn't run the ds1.11s every day, partly cos of the squeaking, partly cos its such a waste of money. I swap back onto standard discs and £14 pads for daily use.

 

[JB21]

I couldn't run the ds1.11s every day, partly cos of the squeaking, partly cos its such a waste of money. I swap back onto standard discs and £14 pads for daily use.

Oh yeah they were only used on track, even though they were fine on the road but a little overkill.

 

[RMDavis]

I couldn't run the ds1.11s every day, partly cos of the squeaking, partly cos its such a waste of money. I swap back onto standard discs and £14 pads for daily use.

That's a fair point mate.

I still have my OE front pads, so I may swap them out after Blyton to save my ears and wallet!

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk

 

[JamesBryan]

I'd leave them in tbh, don't want cross contamination between the different pad materials.

 

[JB21]

I'd leave them in tbh, don't want cross contamination between the different pad materials.

Pure myth that mate. I've changed from OE to Mintex M1155 and then to DS11.11 and back to OE all in the same day without issue.

 

[JamesBryan]

Pure myth that mate. I've changed from OE to Mintex M1155 and then to DS11.11 and back to OE all in the same day without issue.

There's definitely been a difference when i've gone from road pad back to race pad.

 

[Djw John]

I keep a set of discs for track and a set for road since I've got the storage to save the cross contamination.

 

[JamesBryan]

I keep a set of discs for track and a set for road since I've got the storage to save the cross contamination.

Ideal that mate.

 

[Kev@KAM]

I keep a set of discs for track and a set for road since I've got the storage to save the cross contamination.

Its the biggest initial outlay and more hassle but its the most cost effective long term.
Keep a sharpie so you can mark left and right side so its easy to refit and match the pads to the discs.

 

[Djw John]

Yeah I use a paint pen to mark them up. I also swap the pads from inside to outside now to get them to wear more evenly, hopefully means I get an extra day out of them. Does mean they feel like shite at first but it comes good quite quickly. Paint pen on the back of the pads too

 

[Usr117063]

There's definitely been a difference when i've gone from road pad back to race pad.

They need to be burnished again

 

[JamesBryan]

They need to be burnished again

I just leave the race pads in all the time now.

The car gets little use on the road so it's not much of a problem.

 

[PhillipM]

Pure myth that mate. I've changed from OE to Mintex M1155 and then to DS11.11 and back to OE all in the same day without issue.

It's not a myth, it really depends on the pads, some of the chemical interface layers don't play nicely with each other - DS2500 for example is notorious for leaving pad build up on top of other pads films, unless the discs are new or scrubbed before fitting.

 

[JB21]

It's not a myth, it really depends on the pads, some of the chemical interface layers don't play nicely with each other - DS2500 for example is notorious for leaving pad build up on top of other pads films, unless the discs are new or scrubbed before fitting.

Never had an issue switching pads on the same disc's, even 2500's. A generous heat cycle after a change has always worked for me. The last set of Brembo HC discs I used on the Clio must have had 3k track miles on them and in that time had most of the above pads mentioned inc the highly aggressive RC8's as well as different OE pads, and not once did I get judder or a loss of performance from the pad in the calliper on changing back with a decent heat cycle.

 

[JamesBryan]

Never had an issue switching pads on the same disc's, even 2500's. A generous heat cycle after a change has always worked for me. The last set of Brembo HC discs I used on the Clio must have had 3k track miles on them and in that time had most of the above pads mentioned inc the highly aggressive RC8's as well as different OE pads, and not once did I get judder or a loss of performance from the pad in the calliper on changing back with a decent heat cycle.

You never braked though ?

 

[JB21]

You never braked though ?

Haha thought my pads lasted ages. Bloody OE rears did 6k miles most of that track miles and still had more than half on them, lol. TBF they were doing naff all until I refurbed them.

 

[JamesBryan]

Haha thought my pads lasted ages. Bloody OE rears did 6k miles most of that track miles and still had more than half on them, lol. TBF they were doing naff all until I refurbed them.

My OE rears did 4 years and about 10 track days ?

 

[PhillipM]

Never had an issue switching pads on the same disc's, even 2500's. A generous heat cycle after a change has always worked for me. The last set of Brembo HC discs I used on the Clio must have had 3k track miles on them and in that time had most of the above pads mentioned inc the highly aggressive RC8's as well as different OE pads, and not once did I get judder or a loss of performance from the pad in the calliper on changing back with a decent heat cycle.

RC8's are very biased toward mechanical friction rather then chemical interface layers, same with most carbon lorraine pads, they'll scrub discs clean in no time. It's why they're quite hard on discs.