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how to get 175bhp from your 16v





Did lots of research on this recently so thought i would tell everyone! You need a megane bottom end with starter motor(must be pre 98), a set of re-profiled cams and vernier pulleys, a supersprint manifold, a hill power williams chip and a good mechanic. The best thing to do is to gather all your parts(i managed to find them for £1200!) and speak to ypur local mechanic and convince him that he should take on the job. my mechanic said he would do it for £400(ie hire him for a week). i still have all the contacts for this conversion so PM me for parts!
 


i havent done it, was going to but found a williams engine. i was going to get the cams from Bondy, not sure what profile. 175bhp can be seen with a good engine, a guarenteed 165bhp on others but with the bottom end you come on cam at 2500rpm instead of 4500 of the valver!
 
  20VT Clio & 9-5 HOT


i decided I wanted to keep my original bottom end. But instead im paying a shed load to get it all lightened and balanced. With uprated bits. Better be worth it!
 


i hate reprofiled cams.......waste of money

since you can only remove material, you keep std lift, and just take material off the bottom of the lobe t decrease its diameter.....lousy.
 
  20VT Clio & 9-5 HOT


not sure about that much, ill be happy with 165ish. Knowing my look it will have the exact same power as before :-((
 


sorry to butt in ben but reground cams are perfectley fine. iam sure kent and piper wouldnt put there reputation on the line for selling( lousy ) cams. the original renault cams are bullet proof cold hardened right the way through so macineing will not harm them in any way. by the way mate got a cvh vernia in my garage brand new only want £40 for it
 


lightening and balancing along wont really show any increase in power, just far more responsive, but it is partly what needed if your going to make a high reving engine.

But..... i thought an engine has peek point at which its working at its best, this would be a given speed of the piston (Hench why the williams produces power at lower revs, because roughly speaking a williams running at 3k for example will have its pistons traveling at a faster speed then the de-stroked 1800 doing the same RPM, therefore its not as simple as upping the rev limit unless your engine isgot a very wide bore, A better solution would be making the 1800 flow better it the current rev range?

this is all just my ideas and not a proven theory, BenR will have an infinitly better idea what the best route would be.

BenHs made 172 BHP with hotter cams & porting and polishing, and the car (i believe) is still very driveable and idles smoothly, this is the sort of spec i would go for, 172BHP is aot in a little clio!

Also what is to be gained with the supersprint manifold? i thought the cast 16v and williams tubular were OK any way, The 16v being slightly more restrictive but therefore better for torque, I would be suprised if super sprint had spent as much time and money on the design as Renault.
 
  20VT Clio & 9-5 HOT


I was thinking about a different manifold but I then read the standard cast one is good enough anyway. Not really worth the £300+ pricetag.

Im also having, cams, verniers, ported & polished head on top of the balancing then uprated clutch to be fitted then to HP for a chip. Im not getting my hopes up too much as I dont want to be disapointed but the engine was very healthy before. Adam Munn has run 15.3 1/4 mile with it with only basic mods.
 


you remove it from around the round part and not the lobe.....effecyively making the cam smaller.
 


renaults run hydraulic buckets so the extra off dont matter, koz they are only fast road very tame profiles anything more than f/r needs to be ground from chillcast blanks
 


so, IMHOP ther is no point in using a fast road profile.....pointless....

you dont remove material from the actual shaft.....the entire cam profile consists of the lobe, ramps flanks and the bae circle.

You decrease the base circle diameter t make the effective cam smaller and thus a longer duration.
 


I bought my car with the mods already done to it and an engine dyno (not at wheels) power figure of 171.3bhp. Ive got the bill sat here in front of me and I can see that the majority of the bill (excluding the valves and sundries to correct a timing belt snap) is on labour. Thats because only a few tuning parts have been used - the original cams, manifolds and head have all been re-worked to an unknown spec. I guess the ex-owner would know that spec, but the bill certainly doesnt have it on!

I really wouldnt know where to begin if I was tuning an engine myself, but I do know that porting, reprofiling, Verniers and chip will usually see 160-170bhp at the fly with a 16v.
 


not gona argue with you mate you seem to know more, all iam saying is fast road profiles aint useless they do a job. i agree lairy lifts and durations give far greater power but the everyday driver will nver come to use such power coming in high and staying till right round to 8k. a standard engine could never cope with that sort off stress all the time.:)
 


Yup! Am looking forward to getting it on the rollers and seeing what it makes. What sort of at the wheels figure should I be looking for? Ive just had a look at the BB Tuning RR results and was wondering what sort of power loss would I be looking at? 16vs seem to lose 15-25%.
 
  Trophy


Not sure really,

Leigh got 172 @ fly with 150 @ wheels whereas my PE result was 170 @ fly with 131 @ wheels.

Every RR is different.



Mat.
 


Dont want to clutter the thread up too much, but how do they calculate the power loss? Can they measure it?
 


much......but it still has its inherent problems like not being able to run the sme exhaust as on the car etc etc.....
 


I see. So Ill never be able to get a really good idea of what my car is running in its current state?

One more question - when my head spat out a spark plug, I had the thread enlarged and then a device stuck in between the head and the plug to hold the plug in. I suspect that the top of the cylinder will now not be smooth and might have a small protrusion around the spark plug where the insert comes down further than the top of the head (possibly obscuring the head of the plug inside the cylinder). Would this affect the combustion in any way? I havent driven the car for any length of time since this was done before Christmas, but it all seems OK. (I was just happy at the time that the head didnt need to come off to fix the thread, but now suspect that Ill need a new head at some stage as now I cant get that plug out!!).
 
  BMW 320d Sport


lol yeah but Ben you cant say that fast road cams are a waste of time to all the people who run a fast road grind and are perfectly happy with the undeniable extra power and torque theyve had out of them. Who cares if theyre regrinds? If they work, they work, and I dont remember anyone lately saying oh I ran these reground Pipers for a year then they broke cos they were too thin - that just doesnt happen in real life.

AFAIK you can have higher lift on a regrind by cutting into the base circle and making the shaft run eccentric off of the opposite side of the lobe. Well something like that anyway, I cant seem to put into words what I mean. But the height of the cam lobe is kept the same and the shaft centre is moved if you get what I mean. Obviously there are drawbacks, you cant go very wild on a reprofile, fast road will always be the limit of the grind, but if you cant afford billet cams then whats pointless is paying £500 for billet when you could have the same grind as a reprofile for £200! Billets only worth having if you need a wilder profile like a 285 upwards.
 


thanks nick good explanation. I CAN SUPPLY ALL THESE GOODIES:)

great day today nick looking forward to the trip.
 


the rground cams wont havea change int eh centrline of the whole cam,but yes, the lobe will move.....

nothing wrong, but like i said, i hate them....and the minimal change is just.....well, you know i dont do things half house....LOL
 


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