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Jekyll's RB182 Progress Thread



andy_coops

ClioSport Club Member
  172, VRS, Clio 5
Carbon Collective is the good stuff - nice one.

Glad you’re hanging onto it. Best phase 2 I’ve seen anywhere. Had considered changing mine for something quicker but gave my head a wobble and sorting quotes for paint instead 👍
 

Jekyll

ClioSport Club Member
Give the studs a light going over with ACF50 mate, that's what i do with mine to stop them going crusty.

The black self coloured steel goes bad very quickly.

Mine have been in a year now and they still look near new.

Ok so I need to jump on this! Went out to the car on the weekend and saw this! Not happy.

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Considering these are much more money than the previous Bimmec ones and even the PMS ones (cant see and difference between these and Bimmec) and have only been on 2 weeks, I'm a tad gutted. So much so, that I've ordered a set of Bimmec ones again, in the same 68mm/90mm. These should be here in a few days and I will coat them prior to fitting and try and sell these ones on.

I presume the spray is better to do these? How many coats and is there a curing time? Also, all of the threads, or all the exposed bits and leave the loctighted area?
 

Radugns

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172 ph2
Even if the metal is treated (coated) by threading it a couple of times, the metal will have some points without treatment and by having them a little longer, dust and sand from road will cause bare metal spots and rust will appears.
 

frayz

ClioSport Club Member
ACF50 and an old small detailing brush dude. If you’ve not used it before, it’s like a medium viscosity purple oil. I find it easiest to spray a little on a brush and brush it on.
gives you more control with it.
Id be tempted to take the A1T items once off to have them zinc coated or black passivated.
 

JamesBryan

ClioSport Club Member
That is surprising mate!

Which one are you using, the aerosol version or the bottle type?

I put it on all the threads apart from the shank area that will be loctited into the hub.

I did pre treat mine a few days before i fitted them.

I'll take a pic of what my PMS ones look like later, they've been on a year now and not an ounce of rust.
 

frayz

ClioSport Club Member
You’ll probably find that if you’re using a wheel cleaning product such as billberry or similar, that will be stripping the protection from the ends of the studs. So they may need a little spray after every wheel wash.
 

Jekyll

ClioSport Club Member
Even if the metal is treated (coated) by threading it a couple of times, the metal will have some points without treatment and by having them a little longer, dust and sand from road will cause bare metal spots and rust will appears.

Yes I know, and expected it to do so over time, not in such a short space though. My old ones had been on for well over year and nowhere near as bad! Very surprised at this as these are £6 per bolt and the Bimmec/PMS ones are a max of £4 a bolt.

I wish my main worries about my car were surface rusted wheel bolts haha

Not the fact that the gearbox crunches more than a box of Shreddies being bodyslammed :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

Haha, love the anagram! What can I say, I like thing looking nice.

Sighting > Hearing.

ACF50 and an old small detailing brush dude. If you’ve not used it before, it’s like a medium viscosity purple oil. I find it easiest to spray a little on a brush and brush it on.
gives you more control with it.
Id be tempted to take the A1T items once off to have them zinc coated or black passivated.

No I've never used it so was just curious as to the process and what not.

I may do the black passivate coating once they are off, but if the acf50 is good, then I'll probably leave it and just try and sell the AI tech ones on.

That is surprising mate!

Which one are you using, the aerosol version or the bottle type?

I put it on all the threads apart from the shank area that will be loctited into the hub.

I did pre treat mine a few days before i fitted them.

I'll take a pic of what my PMS ones look like later, they've been on a year now and not an ounce of rust.

I havent used it mate, I've not even bought it. That's why i was asking as I'll buy it and do it when my new studs turn up 👍

Would appreciate a picture also, just to ease my mind.

You’ll probably find that if you’re using a wheel cleaning product such as billberry or similar, that will be stripping the protection from the ends of the studs. So they may need a little spray after every wheel wash.

Hopefully now that they have been ceramic coated, they should just need washing and not wheel cleaning too much.
 

JamesBryan

ClioSport Club Member
I havent used it mate, I've not even bought it. That's why i was asking as I'll buy it and do it when my new studs turn up 👍

Would appreciate a picture also, just to ease my mind.

Ahh, i was going to say! If they had been coated with ACF, i'd be shocked to see them in that state.

Go for the bottled stuff mate, then just dab/spray some on and let it wick around the threads for a minute, then wipe the excess off.
 

JamesBryan

ClioSport Club Member

Louis

I Park Like a C**t
ClioSport Club Member
That's mad! When you remove them send them off for zinc plating.

My watfields ones don't look anywhere near that bad and theyve been on 2 years nearly. Never treated in anything! Ignore the grime and lack of centre caps 😂

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dann2707

ClioSport Club Member
Forgive me if it's a stupid question but something like that surely you'd want to just have it sprayed black to protect it from rust not coat it with oil to prevent it rusting? It's like having your car not painted and just coating it in oil every week to stop it from rusting?
 

MarcB

ClioSport Club Member
  182 Trophy & 197 F1
If painting or what ever else surly there is always going to be metal on metal so therefor it would come off so painting is just a stupid idea.

You would be best to strip them back and have them Zinc plated in black or Clear (Silver)
 

dann2707

ClioSport Club Member
If painting or what ever else surly there is always going to be metal on metal so therefor it would come off so painting is just a stupid idea.

You would be best to strip them back and have them Zinc plated in black or Clear (Silver)
Yeah that's exactly what I mean, a coating of some sort rather than just oiling it
 

MarcB

ClioSport Club Member
  182 Trophy & 197 F1
Forgive me if it's a stupid question but something like that surely you'd want to just have it sprayed black to protect it from rust not coat it with oil to prevent it rusting? It's like having your car not painted and just coating it in oil every week to stop it from rusting?

Yeah that's exactly what I mean, a coating of some sort rather than just oiling it

Under the impression you suggested to spray paint it black with paint.
 

Louis

I Park Like a C**t
ClioSport Club Member
My point was more of a permanent coating as such rather than oiling it periodically. Doesn't matter if its sprayed black, powder coated black, passivated, galvanised. My example was just a suggestion 👍🏻
Problem is you'll damage it everytime you're taking the wheels off
 

Louis

I Park Like a C**t
ClioSport Club Member
It's an interesting point dan. I'm a tad unsure here myself so ask away as I'm sure someone will clarify what's best.
No reason zinc plating wont work. Risk of hydrogen embrittlement but you still get bolts that are 12.9 and plated. Wonder if theres more risk it being after the fact?

Just realised Dan was talking plating too and not just painting.
 

Jekyll

ClioSport Club Member
Well I've ordered the ACF50. Got the bottle as recommended.

So the studs and spray should be here by the weekend. The plan was to fit them friday night and leave overnight, like before. I could do them at home but the car will be driven to work so makes sense to do it this way, like before.

Will look into black passivate also. I have a few places to call so if it's worth doing then I will send the new studs off first before I fit them. This means I may not do the above this weekend.
 

JamesBryan

ClioSport Club Member
Shouldn't need passivated mate.

The amount of times you clean your car, i'm sure you'll be giving the studs a quick wipe over with ACF everytime 😂

(Forgot to get a pic of my studs, i'll do it later, promise)
 

Jekyll

ClioSport Club Member
Nice! Thanks for that James.

My replacement studs turned up today so I'll fit them Friday after work. The ACF50 should be here tomorrow so I'll give them a few coats, prior to fitting.

I ordered 10 of each, so I've a few spares of each size.

20200225_160652-01.jpeg
 

Jekyll

ClioSport Club Member
The fitting of the new studs went nice and easy. Ordered the ACF50 from Opie Oils and it came quickly so as before, i stayed after work friday night and fitting the studs and let them sit overnight. Im glad i've bought the Bimmec ones as im really disappointed with the A1 Tech studs. 2 weeks and 250ish miles and they are in this state, more so than the above pictures.

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Ive emailed Rallynuts to see if i can get some form of compensation as i believe that this is not good for the little time they've been on, especially as they claim to have:

"Professional motorsport conversion wheel studs, manufactured from high grade, high tensile steel with rolled threads for ultimate strength. Finished with a tough blackened treatment, you won't find a better quality product, used by many Works teams Worldwide." (Taken from there website)


This is without any wheel cleaner or products, only a bit of rain. Unfortunately, ive heard nothing back so im going to presume i'll be ignored.

Another thing ive done is made some 2118 centre caps. This was a joint idea by me and Will at work about fitting some renault caps in the centre. @MrBlonde had some eBay renault caps that he kindly donated to me. They come in at 57mm, so i got some 60mm perspex tube for the caps to sit in, and for the OD of the tube to fit in the centre bore of the 2118s.

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Seen as i was doing these, i no longer need my 5mm rear spacers. The only reason i had them was to push the wheels out to make them flush with the hub caps.

Before

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After

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They are also currently for sale if anybody is interested ;)


I measured the hub lip to bore edge and the fronts was 9.5mm and the rears was 14mm so i cut the tubing into 4x 9mm rings.

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Filed the edges of the caps so they fit in the rings snug and aroldited them from the rear.

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I let them set overnight and then the next day i added filler to fill the grooves, sanded them down, primered them, sanded them down again and painted them. I went with Halfords appliance white again as its the closest colour match i could find.

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Jekyll

ClioSport Club Member
The night before fitting the studs, i gave them a coat of ACF50, not getting on the threads past the knuckle that goes into the hub.

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Got the RB in the workshop after work and started the stud replacement.

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While the wheels was off, i washed them and pressed in my new caps. The extra paint material made them a snug fit, but they pressed in flush and dont need sealing. Im pretty happy with them i must say.

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With that done i fully cleaned and degreased the wheels, ready for another ceramic coating in the morning. Next day came and i gave the wheels the coating and let them set for a couple of hours. Tinkered doing some other bits such as painting my side skirt rivets and jacking bolts, polished my exhaust to pass the time and also sprayed my Bilsteins with AFC50 while the wheels was off.

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With that all done, i refitted everything and went outside to get some pictures.

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While browsing Facebook i noticed Alex White (AW Motorworks) was selling a BTM/Yozza exhaust. Ive always wanted a yozza as i know the quality is good and i love the look of the tailpipes! So dropped him a message and asked if he still had it which he did. I still have my original cat which i sleeved to fit my ktec system, but dont use it as im decatted. Alex was interested in this so we struck a deal for that plus a bit of cash for his BTM plus sports cat. All goes well, ill be picking it up on saturday. If that all goes well, as soon as its fitted, ill be putting my Ktec Ultra exhaust up for sale. If anybody is interested, feel free to PM me.

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And lastly, i was going through one of the drawers at home and came across this. This was the original modifications list i jotted down when i was in talks to get the RB. Quite cool to see that i though. Its had a few changes since then and this time next month, i'll have own the RB 4 years.

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Thanks for reading.
 
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