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Little turbo for the megane

The joys of being a pioneer. Lol.

You could get a steel crank in a few days for most modified engines. Lol.
 
How do you know it will be better? :p

I already changed the crank, rods and pistons a fair bit :)
 
RSTuning said:
How do you know it will be better? :p
Click to expand...

Because you havent increased the height of the block, which means you cant have made even a cm of difference to the rod length, and to get the F4R rods to a decent length you need about an extra inch in them!


I already changed the crank, rods and pistons a fair bit :)
Click to expand...
Quarter inch or something like that?
Meh, its a start but nothing like what a 1.8 could offer.
 
Fred@BTM said:
sodemo REDUCE the height of the block significantly but use massivley longer rods ;)
Click to expand...

On what length throw of crank are you talking about Fred?
And how much are you talking about in terms of "massively longer" rods.
Do they use standard size bearings or go smaller as for N/A often bearing sizes can be reduced to require less height (and cut down on friction)
 
i only had a quick 10min play, but the rods are at least 30-40mm longer, the throw on the crank is tiny, with the big end diameter being less than half of OE
 
Fred@BTM said:
i only had a quick 10min play, but the rods are at least 30-40mm longer, the throw on the crank is tiny, with the big end diameter being less than half of OE
Click to expand...

Was probably a 1.6 or something then?
And paul cant really get away with tiny bearings I would imagine for his application, so those sort of tricks arent so useful on a turbo.
 
I think my crank is 89mm but can't rememebr what we actually came to now as its that long ago!, i moved the pin up the piston and had the longest rod possible, the oil rings are in the pin area.
 
RSTuning said:
I think my crank is 89mm but can't rememebr what we actually came to now as its that long ago!, i moved the pin up the piston and had the longest rod possible, the oil rings are in the pin area.
Click to expand...

4mm is a pretty significant drop in crank throw, thats certainly enough to make a big difference to rod ratio considering you both lose it off the crank and gain it on the rod.

Should really help at high rpm :)

How far you planning to rev it?
 
RSTuning said:
9000+ when i go dry sump, maybe 10000
Click to expand...

Proper epic.

Ironically would make a far better N/A engine than the pure one that is trendy on here at the moment with all the high revving parts you have!

and yet CS will no doubt dismiss its development as "oh just another turbo motor" lol
 
Chip-mk1 said:
Proper epic.

Ironically would make a far better N/A engine than the pure one that is trendy on here at the moment with all the high revving parts you have!

and yet CS will no doubt dismiss its development as "oh just another turbo motor" lol
Click to expand...

Not me serious epicness going on here even tho most of it is going over my head
 
It's built to flow 300hp without a turbo and higher comp pistons. It would be interesting to see what it could make with no boost tbh. Hmmmm....
 
RSTuning said:
It's built to flow 300hp without a turbo and higher comp pistons. It would be interesting to see what it could make with no boost tbh. Hmmmm....
Click to expand...

Always the best way to build a turbo car IMHO, build it like its an N/A to get it as efficient as possible first then add a massive blower after.
 
Chip-mk1 said:
Always the best way to build a turbo car IMHO, build it like its an N/A to get it as efficient as possible first then add a massive blower after.
Click to expand...

I'm with that to a certain extent, but to build for high hp NA you need very low friction and very high RPM, so you end up with very long duration cams and very high lift to get the airflow. Whereas with a big turbo setup you are all about huge torgue and massive bottom end strength with extra cooling being required. To be able to cope with the boost levels you would be running lower CR pistons. So getting some good flow and having a good solid base engine is all good, but the engines will be quite different internally.

MC
 
Mistercorn said:
I'm with that to a certain extent, but to build for high hp NA you need very low friction and very high RPM, so you end up with very long duration cams and very high lift to get the airflow. Whereas with a big turbo setup you are all about huge torgue and massive bottom end strength with extra cooling being required. To be able to cope with the boost levels you would be running lower CR pistons. So getting some good flow and having a good solid base engine is all good, but the engines will be quite different internally.

MC
Click to expand...

Milder cams and less cr kind of goes without saying for a turbo. Lol.
We were talking more about head specs, inlet manifold design etc.
 
Still waiting for the box finishing, unfortunately the quaife diff i bought for the 02m is different to the 02q one so i need to have a sleeve made and machined to fit the 02q bearing to the 02q diff.
 
Why don't you just use a 02m bellhousing mate? Iirc the 02Q housing is a tad deeper so may cause clutch problems too.
 
I need to use the 02q setup because SQS Racing said i'll break the 02m with the torque this will make :(
 
I have the 2 side by side and can't see why the 02m will be any weaker tbh.

afaik they're proven at over 800bhp launching with 4x4. First thing to let go is the housing around that sort of power, rips open at the bearing end.
 
I think the main issue is the inlet shaft, they do a stronger one for the q but not the m
 
1003874_624028157639648_1464096103_n.webp
Crank is here at last!
 
Waiting for the block to come back and need to go collect the diff so I can have a sleeve made.
 
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