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My 182ff track car build (so far)



1985michael182

ClioSport Club Member
So the next day in it's new home at work I got up early and blitzed it. Stripping everything off. Took me just under 3 hours but I was being careful and labeling boxes/parts. Never know how long it will be in bits.
I was just going to paint the 1/4's but the wings looked crap and the the doors would look a different colour so I though sod it I'll do lot!!
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The fuel tank I sprayed in wheel acid and steam cleaned it, came up nice
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All the panels ready to prep
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The door wiring seemed a bit OTT considering I only need the central locking system. That will need addressing and chasing back when I rebuild
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Coops Mk1

ClioSport Club Member
  Lots of Scrap...
great work, just read beginning to end! can't believe the amount of corrosion for a 47k car though! there is less on my 218k one!

caught it just in time though to prevent need for major cut out repairs so good stuff and lick of paint and she'll look a treat!
 

1985michael182

ClioSport Club Member
great work, just read beginning to end! can't believe the amount of corrosion for a 47k car though! there is less on my 218k one!

caught it just in time though to prevent need for major cut out repairs so good stuff and lick of paint and she'll look a treat!

Yea it doesnt do cars any good to be sat. When you drive the air can circulate around everything and dry it out. Plus washing you car off removes the sodium.
But you are right i was surprised at how bad it was at the rear. I've bossed it now though.
 

1985michael182

ClioSport Club Member
I started on the offside.
I jacked it up, removed the wheels and masked the holes to stop dust going inside the car.
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The sills where littered with galv bubbles, and small areas of corrosion so I wire wheeled the corrosion and used 80grit to remove the paint to bare metal.
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There was a few areas where some Rupert has tried to Jack the car up not on a jacking point 🤦‍♂️ so I used vice grips to twist the flanges back down then used a flat chisel at the back as a dolly and panel beated them square again.
The original jacking points are made of chocolate anyway so at the front I cut some 2mm steel measured it up and fabricated some reinforcements.
I started by mig braising the sill panel to the jacking point first and dressed it flush with the belt sander.
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Then I clamped my new peice in place.
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Mig braize around the panel, then I tapped the new panel around the sill and braized together on the inside underneath. Not pretty but very strong.
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The rear 1/4 I sanded down to bare metal using 80 grit then blended into the original paintwork with 180/240.
Same with the fuel filler neck and the window aperture.
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Guy before me decided to drill the rear 1/4 lexan windows and nut and bolt them rather than window bond. The holes gave me a bit of an issue, if I weld them I will burn the paint off the inside! So what I decided to do was used a 10mm drill bit to taper the holes from the outside. I stuck some plastic stickers over the holes from the back and then used metal filler to fill the holes up.
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The full side was then finished in 320grit on the DA sander and wet grey scotch brite. I also buzzed this side of the roof down with 500grit and made some small repairs to where the vent sits on the roof.
 

1985michael182

ClioSport Club Member
Now that one side was prepared I got it straight into primer to stop any potential corrosion starting up again as I didnt know how long it would be before the other side would be ready for primer or when I would get it done.
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I also cut the wing mounting bracket off at the front as it was rusty and the front wheel sometimes caught on it. Dont think i need it.

I started preparing the panels whilst the oven was on bake. The wings didnt seem to take the original paint very well and flaked off.
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Doors are just a quick buzz off and remove any blemishes. They have a couple of dents but I'm not bothered as they are just blend panels which I will probably change for fibreglass in the future.
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Skirts I took back to bare plastic they where pretty battered from stone chips.
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I bought some cup racer brake ducts which had turned up so I cracked on with test fitting them.
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I had to cut loads out of the bumper to make them fit but with the air saw and belt sander it made light work of it. I think I would have been pretty cheesed off doing it with hand tools.
I will do them gloss black to match the headlight blanks.
 

1985michael182

ClioSport Club Member
Ok next

So I completed the exact same repairs to the full nearside of the car as I did to the Offside.

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Primed it and then guide coated the full car with a light coat of black aerosol.
I then used 400grit on my sanding block with light pressure to take the top off the primer and also to check for any missed dents or imperfections.
I then used a black powder guide coat which you rub on to the panels with a soft pad.
This allowed me to use 500grit on the DA sander with a sponge backing pad to remove the 400 marks. Whilst not creating any imperfection with the sander.
Then to finish I used 800 wet and dry in all the areas that the DA wouldnt get into plus the edges of the panels to finish them off.
This is so I'm not left with square lines around all of the panels from blocking and using the DA.
Used water based degreaser to clean the residue off the panels and an air blower to get the trapped water out of any areas the panel cloth couldnt reach.
Last but not least one final neat mask up making sure nothing will flap or create dust whilst painting, and viola ready to paint!!

Easy really 🤣

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It was then sheeted down to stop people with their greasy mits touching it, spider and fly $H1T landing on it and fo keep dust of as much as possible.
Hand prints can totally ruin your paint work because of the oils in your skin.

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Next step paint
 

1985michael182

ClioSport Club Member
Ok this is it, paint time at last!!
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I pulled it into the oven, jacked it up and placed it on stands underneath the car.

I Finalised the masking ensuring I hadn't left anything, panel wiped it twice with solvent (wax on wax off style) then used the antistatic blow gun and tack rag to remove any final dust particles and to discharge the panels so they dont statically attract any more dust.
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Same with the doors, these needed to be painted at the same time as the shell to make sure they come out the same colour. The wings being plastic will always look slightly off because the paint takes to different substrate differently. They are also a different angle to the doors which automatically makes them look wrong.
You could paint steel, ally, plastic and fibreglass with the same pot of paint and all would be slightly different.
So the wings will be done with the trims.
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At this point I forgot to take pictures during the painting process so sorry for that but I obviously have pictures post painting.

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I'm really happy with it, looks fantastic in the sun, blinds you,!😆

I wasted no time at all and started the build up. Nice clean petrol tank to fit with nice new stainless bolts and washers. 😉
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1985michael182

ClioSport Club Member
The rear brakes came back from Biggred just in time to finish the rear axle off. I added Carbon Loraine CL5+ rear pads and ran the proline braided lines back to them.
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Really happy with the overall look and finish with it.
I ran the new handbrake cables, fitted the wheels and dropped it back onto the floor.
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Now it was a rolling shell I could start the build up of the bodywork.
I'm planning on keeping this one so I need to future proof it with waxoil.
I started with the front inner wings. Taping up the holes and cavity wax inside the panels.
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Thermo formed lexan 1/4 glass was next.
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Colin-S

ClioSport Club Member
  172 Cup
Incredible build! Well documented and enjoyable read. I'd be scared to drive it or get it dirty after doing all that work, you've got a lot of skills I wish I had. Congrats!
 

1985michael182

ClioSport Club Member
The rear brakes came back from Biggred just in time to finish the rear axle off. I added Carbon Loraine CL5+ rear pads and ran the proline braided lines back to them.View attachment 1506706
View attachment 1506704View attachment 1506705
Really happy with the overall look and finish with it.
I ran the new handbrake cables, fitted the wheels and dropped it back onto the floor.
View attachment 1506707View attachment 1506709
Now it was a rolling shell I could start the build up of the bodywork.
I'm planning on keeping this one so I need to future proof it with waxoil.
I started with the front inner wings. Taping up the holes and cavity wax inside the panels.
View attachment 1506710
Which thermoform kit you using ?

ACW ?
AWC?
Something like that
 

JamesBryan

ClioSport Club Member
Didn't know they did thermo now.
I had the original clio kit from them way back when they very first started (a sponsorship thing when I was on Fastcar, that is whats on the Clio).
Weirdly I have now moved just down the road from them.... I need to pop back and say hello

Yeah they never used to, it was only Plastic4Performance that did the Clio ones back in the day.
 

1985michael182

ClioSport Club Member
I skimmed over a couple of things in that last post which I thought I should address.

The door Lexan windows I cleaned up and machine polished to revive them before I built them up as they were a bit scratchy.
The sills where the skirt rivets go I waxoiled and then waxoiled the rivet heads once fitted.

Prior to fitting the tailgate I weighted it. 15.6 kg. Think a fibre glass one is 5kg so future job.
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The cup spoiler is pretty heavy too. 2.6kg
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I de pinned the door and tailgate wires I no longer wanted just leaving the central locking.
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I also bought the de wiper kit about 2 years ago and never got round to fitting it so I bonded that in too whilst the bonding was out for the rear 1/4s.
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So next, I figured "Winter is coming" so I need some wet tyres.
I got the extreme super soft full wets.
Look great and they really are super soft!
Fitted them to the second set of 2118's. I contemplated getting different colour decals for these wheels bit like F1 with different coloured side walls for different tyres.
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Very nice 😁
 


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