My valver/172 project

Matteh · May 14, 2008

got your msn message mate

Think in the end Dan ran on standard management, but k-tech group n as it has no imobiliser...

Matteh · May 15, 2008

did some more work on the loom today

got my rev counter wired in - no pics of the mods, it was just a couple of (badly) soldered diodes

and got my coolant gauge working!

I spliced into the white signal wire as Beanie suggested, but it turns out the problem was either the sensor or the connector... they didnt make good contact once connected up, so sorted that out and it works!

I'm assuming the cream coloured wire from the gauge works the coolant warning light?

so all I need to do now is connect up the brown alternator plug for my dash battery light and I'm done!

everything works!

Loom can then be nicely taped up!

bmh.01 · May 15, 2008

Looking better everytime now, you get the rad fan working now too? Any news on the engine?

Matteh · May 15, 2008

was just gonna say something about the fan

I removed all the loom before realised I'd forgotten to test the fan! so I've just plugged it all back in again and now I get no voltage to the fan... which means it wont be on... which is good

In theory, if i bridge the white and black wires from the coolant temp sensor together, it should come on? (ultra low resistance, meaning its v hot)

ditz · May 15, 2008

if you un plug the temp sensor the fan cuts in,, it fail safes in to running permanantly

bmh.01 · May 15, 2008

Should always have 12v on the pin on one side of the relay that actually feeds the fan though, its just the 12v feed from the ECU to close the relay shouldn't be there now until necessary.

bmh.01 · May 15, 2008

http://www.getflat.co.uk/pics/172_fan_wiring.jpg

120 - ECU
234 - High Speed Relay
700 - Low Speed Relay
321 - Low Speed Resistor
262 - Fan

Better than me explaining.

Matteh · May 15, 2008

such a wealth of knowlege

Got the 12v constant on both relays and both the ecu signal wires are 12V with the ignition on (temp sensor removed) - both outputs are 0v though

nothing with the ignition off either

*sigh* fix one thing break another!

Matteh · May 15, 2008

...thinking about it, I've gone and added 12v to the white wire from the ecu to the coolant sensor... this must be throwing off the ECU for the resistance reading from the sensor?

Christopher · May 15, 2008

Gutting about the engine... again!

Chin up though fella, awesome project all the same!

Matteh · May 15, 2008

cheers

Beaniemoo · May 15, 2008

Glad you got your temp gauge working, the fact yurs didn't wokr had me scratching my head. Did the diode idea work with the rev counter? That was also our idea (can't remember if I discussed it with you or someone else). What diodes did you use and where did you get them from?

Moo

Matteh · May 15, 2008

not sure if the diodes work... but the multimeter suggests it *should* work

used some N4004 diodes - can get them from maplin

but, re: the temp gauge... it works.. but it will be wrong, as the ECU sends voltage over it as well...

I'm looking in to plumbing in the mk1 coolant temp sensor to control the gauge and leave the 172 one to the ecu

really annoying that the only thing stopping the gauge from working was a bad connection! doh!

bmh.01 · May 16, 2008

Matteh said:
such a wealth of knowlege

Got the 12v constant on both relays and both the ecu signal wires are 12V with the ignition on (temp sensor removed) - both outputs are 0v though

nothing with the ignition off either

*sigh* fix one thing break another!

Lost me, outputs? The feeds to the fan will be obviously, there should be continuity through to earth (with a resistance) if you wanted to check the fan wiring.

wayneclio16v · May 16, 2008

does your rev counter read almost double though when i wired mine up to the coil pack wiring it was reading way over what it was would idle around 1200 on the counter ?

Matteh · May 16, 2008

when wired up to the coilpack normally, it reads half?

have you connected both signal wires to the rev counter?

I've not been able to test mine cause my engine is still MIA

Matteh · May 16, 2008

new plan:

attach the mk1 sensor here!

plan is to braise a suitable nut onto thermostat housing and then drill a hole through... sorted?

kinda like how you can attach a lambda to an exhaust pipe

Matteh · May 23, 2008

crank is bent

on to plan S or plan T now...

find another 172 BE or maybe fit a valver crank :dapprove:

wayneclio16v · May 23, 2008

i can get hold of a crank from a f4r in a 2l laguna same bottom end ?

Matteh · May 23, 2008

I was told that they were difference as I had looked into that

just double checked on dialogys, only the F4R 712 shares the same crank

ditz · May 23, 2008

valver crank could be a plan, shorter stroke though i think? so block will want facing down or could possibly use 172 rods with the crank you'd need to mix and match and see what you can come up with really.
if it were me id pull the 1.8 apart and see what youve got

bmh.01 · May 24, 2008

Time to find a new BE/engine now imo.

ben_p · May 24, 2008

ive still got this BE fully built on 20k

Matteh · May 24, 2008

high spec/cost though, wasnt it?

stan* · May 24, 2008

its often worth spending that lil extra to get a better end result though mate....

Matteh · May 24, 2008

do i need forged pistons etc though?

ben_p · May 24, 2008

Matteh said:
high spec/cost though, wasnt it?

no just a stock 182 BE

£120

Matteh · May 24, 2008

oh

very interested... willing to courier? (cheshire is a bit far

)

:edit: at a 182 BE will bolt straight onto a ph1 172 head and clutch etc? any differences?

matty w · May 24, 2008

valver crank is different as the f4r oil pump is chain driven off the end of the crank

geesus69 · May 27, 2008

bloody hell matt you're having less luck than me!! and thats some going!

really feel for you mate

Matteh · May 28, 2008

aye, sucks :dapprove:

oh well, round 2! new bottom end ordered from ben_p

will hopefully be a case of putting the head on and gearbox and dropping it in!

hopefully my loom will do the job and i will have all my gauges working