Ha, I remember Tom@JMS saying there was zero damage to the car :quiet:
How long was it ran like that for, do you know?
Ha, I remember Tom@JMS saying there was zero damage to the car :quiet:
Every time i think i would like the pops and bangs map, i watch this video, it cures the problem
[video=youtube_share;X1sji4Cqzu0]http://youtu.be/X1sji4Cqzu0[/video]
Is there a designated thread for this video? Wouldn't mind reading some of the comments.
If i drive below 4.5k it doesnt do it, only minor burbles. So its only really happening when i drive the car hard/hardish, which is pretty rare. I'd say i'll be rarely hitting over 4.5k once or twice a day....is this enough to cause damage? I really cant make my mind up. Going through bridges/tunnels etc is absolutly hilarious no matter how much of a C*** i look but i dont really NEED the map and if its going to do damage with how much i will use it i'll probably switch to the 98 RON map.Sure.
It holds open the throttle body (or ICV on a ph1) to allow more airflow into the engine.
Then to stop it making power from the extra airflow (cause you dont want to make power at zero throttle) it retards the timing massively
The air and fuel in the engine fails to burn properly as a result, so ends up in the exhuast only partially combusted, where it then finishes burning and makes popping and banging noises, especially any that makes it to fresh air still not burned as then it gets more oxygen supply than is present in the exhaust.
Having a burn still going on during the exhaust stroke, and while the gasses are flowing past the exhaust valve can cause the 2 piece standard valves to fail, and I would expect also for it to make the head go soft if used a lot although Ive not seen it specifically in the context of a pops and bangs f4r map but have seen similar on other engines running antilag.
The amounts of fuel and air involved are relatively low, so if its only used occasionally you are likely to get away with it, but if you use it a lot then in my opinion its when it will fail not if.
Please Dan. Thanks
Edit: sorry for double post.
Just to drag this back up.
Did a datalog on one earlier.
It showed an AFR of around 22:1 and ign advance -18 through to -13 degrees.
Just to drag this back up.
Did a datalog on one earlier.
It showed an AFR of around 22:1 and ign advance -18 through to -13 degrees.
and for the people who don't understand that and carry on "cos its wicked", those figures are..................infact, just carry on being wicked
Please explain them for people who doesn't know what it means!
Please explain them for people who doesn't know what it means!
Why is it Chip is always banned when ya need him lol
Please explain them for people who doesn't know what it means!
AFR, or air fuel ratio, should be 14-15ish to one in an ideal world (think it's something like 14.7). Higher number means lean, lower means rich. Lean causes detonation (basically an explosion instead of a burn) and raises exhaust gas temperature.
Ignition advance is when the spark plug fires relative to the piston. 0 is top dead centre, when the piston is at the very top of the cylinder, positive numbers mean the spark occurs whilst the piston is coming up, and negative is when the piston is coming down (or retardation, which is a pretty good word for this really). That amount of retardation will generate a lot of extra heat which again leads to increased exhaust gas temperature.
Basically it adds up to burnt out exhaust valves and a generally f**ked engine.
AFR, or air fuel ratio, should be 14-15ish to one in an ideal world (think it's something like 14.7). Higher number means lean, lower means rich. Lean causes detonation (basically an explosion instead of a burn) and raises exhaust gas temperature.
Ignition advance is when the spark plug fires relative to the piston. 0 is top dead centre, when the piston is at the very top of the cylinder, positive numbers mean the spark occurs whilst the piston is coming up, and negative is when the piston is coming down (or retardation, which is a pretty good word for this really). That amount of retardation will generate a lot of extra heat which again leads to increased exhaust gas temperature.
Basically it adds up to burnt out exhaust valves and a generally f**ked engine.
Is there a designated thread for this video? Wouldn't mind reading some of the comments.