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Project S13
- Thread starter Kneel
- Start date
Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
All aboard!
Mustang, S13, AX GT
Update:
Its been slow this week due to spending a couple of days in Leeds at a mates but its defo moving on...
1st up, like I said I had fibreglassed the boot and it was quite raised from the boot, not really a surprise but the fact that I didnt smooth the fibreglass before adding filler made it an absolute pain in the arse to get right. I spent about an hour on 1 spot of fibreglass/filler to get it anywhere near smooth, which annoyed me... So given the spirit of my work so far I used powertools for help, namely a grinder. You laugh but it actually worked pretty well, aside from grinder marks in the boot skin now, see:
The grinder marks were a small price to pay given it took maybe 15 minutes to flat the boot down so all the patches were even and smooth to the boot. All this meant in terms of work was I had to smooth out the grinder marks, so I applied a very thin skim of filler and left it to harden, here are 2 of the worst spots:
That was sundays work, so when I got back today I decided to crack on and I sanded it down smooth and masked off the boot ready for primer:
And 1st coat of primer on:
The primer mainly was to show any nasty points in my 'work' and it revealed a couple of bad points:
This wasn't a huge problem as my Dad had some finer filler and decided to cover the bad parts for me, so as it is now:
I'm going back out now to try and get it perfect, then hopefully the next coat of primer will sit right and then that should be it for the night.
Its been slow this week due to spending a couple of days in Leeds at a mates but its defo moving on...
1st up, like I said I had fibreglassed the boot and it was quite raised from the boot, not really a surprise but the fact that I didnt smooth the fibreglass before adding filler made it an absolute pain in the arse to get right. I spent about an hour on 1 spot of fibreglass/filler to get it anywhere near smooth, which annoyed me... So given the spirit of my work so far I used powertools for help, namely a grinder. You laugh but it actually worked pretty well, aside from grinder marks in the boot skin now, see:
The grinder marks were a small price to pay given it took maybe 15 minutes to flat the boot down so all the patches were even and smooth to the boot. All this meant in terms of work was I had to smooth out the grinder marks, so I applied a very thin skim of filler and left it to harden, here are 2 of the worst spots:
That was sundays work, so when I got back today I decided to crack on and I sanded it down smooth and masked off the boot ready for primer:
And 1st coat of primer on:
The primer mainly was to show any nasty points in my 'work' and it revealed a couple of bad points:
This wasn't a huge problem as my Dad had some finer filler and decided to cover the bad parts for me, so as it is now:
I'm going back out now to try and get it perfect, then hopefully the next coat of primer will sit right and then that should be it for the night.
Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
Pretty good job, considering!
Mustang, S13, AX GT
So I spent sometime sanding down the filler Dad put on yesterday to realise, the extra filler really wasn't necessary on a couple of bits... I got it down so it felt smooth to the body then got on smoothing it right down to 1200grit ready for another coat of primer. The primer went on and it looked perfect:
well, ok it looked flat and smooth and perfectly good for a DIY job by a complete novice lol. So that in mind I left the primer to dry over night last night and today I went over it with some 1500grit. To look at the primer was flat, you couldn't see where the patches had gone on and it was smooth to touch so on with the painting, the 1st coat and 2nd coat went on. The paint went on really nicely but it showed the patches pretty clearly
I figured its too late to change it now so I got on the final coat and then laquered it up. I have put on 4 coats of laquer and the paint itself looks pretty good, painting a boot is certainly easier than painting a set of TSW erm, Venoms, so now I'm wishing I had rattle can'd the rood. I'm gonna leave the laquer to harden properly for a day or 2 and then get a polish on it to see just how good it comes up. Ultimately I'm happy for my 1st attempt with it but I will be re-doing it when the weathers nice again and I have some money for more paint lol. I have a pretty good idea of what I need to do to get it perfect next time...
Anywho the 'finished' product:
well, ok it looked flat and smooth and perfectly good for a DIY job by a complete novice lol. So that in mind I left the primer to dry over night last night and today I went over it with some 1500grit. To look at the primer was flat, you couldn't see where the patches had gone on and it was smooth to touch so on with the painting, the 1st coat and 2nd coat went on. The paint went on really nicely but it showed the patches pretty clearly
I figured its too late to change it now so I got on the final coat and then laquered it up. I have put on 4 coats of laquer and the paint itself looks pretty good, painting a boot is certainly easier than painting a set of TSW erm, Venoms, so now I'm wishing I had rattle can'd the rood. I'm gonna leave the laquer to harden properly for a day or 2 and then get a polish on it to see just how good it comes up. Ultimately I'm happy for my 1st attempt with it but I will be re-doing it when the weathers nice again and I have some money for more paint lol. I have a pretty good idea of what I need to do to get it perfect next time...
Anywho the 'finished' product:
Mustang, S13, AX GT
Its not really rat themed, those guys are committed. Its mostly just cheap themed... When I'm earning moneys again then the plan is to make it into a nice S13 again. I originally bought the car to learn how to do stuff like bodywork and etc myself and also as a track s**g so I'm not too fussed about it not being great work for now. When I know what I'm doing I'll be able to do it properly
Rob
ClioSport Moderator
I havent seen this thread before, but just read it from start to finish, what can i say... Awesome! Love the "go for it" attitude, this is what i intend to do as soon as i have a full time job, buy a cheap car thats fun and try things out on it, teaching myself without worrying about making costly errors.
Will be following this from now on, hats off to you.
Will be following this from now on, hats off to you.
The Boosh!
ClioSport Admin
Elise, Duster
Fair play to you kneel learning it all yourself!
If im honest, that boot lid isn't a half bad job considering your no pro!
The roof though, PMSL!
keep up the good work fella.
If im honest, that boot lid isn't a half bad job considering your no pro!
The roof though, PMSL!
keep up the good work fella.
FF RB 182
I've had the car for almost 2 years and not washed it once yet, its likely to be more than 2 weeks before it gets polished
Fair play
Williams
Erm. Tip - hammerite - gateposts and windowframes etc.
- spraypaint- caars!
Lol. I'd reccomend working two or three jobs in advance and asking people on here for advice first. You'll save yourself loads of time rather than rectifying everything.
Keep us posted fella, loads of potencial and could be a quality tail happy wh*re!
- spraypaint- caars!
Lol. I'd reccomend working two or three jobs in advance and asking people on here for advice first. You'll save yourself loads of time rather than rectifying everything.
Keep us posted fella, loads of potencial and could be a quality tail happy wh*re!
Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
PC it, using generous amounts of win, on a twelve inch pad.
ITB'd MK1
who'd you buy this from? I recognise the reg
If your going to strip the sound deadning off the inside DONT use a heat gun. You will be there for ages and make a hell of a mess,
Alot of it will come off with a bit of gentle persuasion from a hammer and chisle on its own (use the chisle upside-down so it doesn't dig into the metal)
the rest get as cold as possible (ice cubes in a bag on top for a while) this makes it brittle and will just chip off.
you will be left with little shapes where each bit has chipped of, just wash it off with some spray on brake or carb cleaner, and it cleans up a treat.
I learnt the hard way with my first S13, but my current one was alot easier as i did the stripping in winter time.
Be warned though, if you strip the seam sealer away aswell, you are likely to find alot of rust
Alot of it will come off with a bit of gentle persuasion from a hammer and chisle on its own (use the chisle upside-down so it doesn't dig into the metal)
the rest get as cold as possible (ice cubes in a bag on top for a while) this makes it brittle and will just chip off.
you will be left with little shapes where each bit has chipped of, just wash it off with some spray on brake or carb cleaner, and it cleans up a treat.
I learnt the hard way with my first S13, but my current one was alot easier as i did the stripping in winter time.
Be warned though, if you strip the seam sealer away aswell, you are likely to find alot of rust
ITB'd MK1
If your going to strip the sound deadning off the inside DONT use a heat gun. You will be there for ages and make a hell of a mess,
Alot of it will come off with a bit of gentle persuasion from a hammer and chisle on its own (use the chisle upside-down so it doesn't dig into the metal)
the rest get as cold as possible (ice cubes in a bag on top for a while) this makes it brittle and will just chip off.
you will be left with little shapes where each bit has chipped of, just wash it off with some spray on brake or carb cleaner, and it cleans up a treat.
I learnt the hard way with my first S13, but my current one was alot easier as i did the stripping in winter time.
Be warned though, if you strip the seam sealer away aswell, you are likely to find alot of rust
you stripped out 2!!!! most people realise how harsh and uncomfortable they are after 1 lol. I'm on my 3rd and full interior is the way forward
ITB'd MK1
nismo engine mounts and DW ali subframe bushes, with really comfy JDM s14 cloth seats FTW
ITB'd MK1
same as normal s14 seats but the pattern is nicer. Std seats are nasty, proper spine killers
Mustang, S13, AX GT
Haha, its all a learning curve. The hammerite was an experiment, to be rectified from thursday when I can go and buy some more 'products'. Hang fire the end result 'should' be ok
Chris, i am possibly the only person alive who would make paintwork worse with a PC, dunno if you saw my 197 up close at FCS last year but I put swirls in it with a halfrauds polisher lol!mikey_S13 on SXOC sold it to me, so you probably recognise it from there
Cheers bud, heat gun seemed like a better option than hammer and chisel/scraper and its quite brittle in places as it is. I'll give the ice cubes a try and hope and pray for no rust, so far the shell seems pretty good for a '92 car though :quiet:If your going to strip the sound deadning off the inside DONT use a heat gun. You will be there for ages and make a hell of a mess,
Alot of it will come off with a bit of gentle persuasion from a hammer and chisle on its own (use the chisle upside-down so it doesn't dig into the metal)
the rest get as cold as possible (ice cubes in a bag on top for a while) this makes it brittle and will just chip off.
you will be left with little shapes where each bit has chipped of, just wash it off with some spray on brake or carb cleaner, and it cleans up a treat.
I learnt the hard way with my first S13, but my current one was alot easier as i did the stripping in winter time.
Be warned though, if you strip the seam sealer away aswell, you are likely to find alot of rust
Rob
ClioSport Moderator
No more been done to this?
Always interesting to see people having a go!
Always interesting to see people having a go!
Rob
ClioSport Moderator
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