The only thing I began noticing was some hesitation when it was cold. You couldn’t give it any throttle until it had properly warmed up.Nice work! did the car feel like it was misfiring with the pre-cat lambda sensor failing?
Very kind of you to say. It's been an expensive project, to say the least, but I'm pleased with how it's turned out.Minter
WtfInteresting John, is that deffo your 182 rear beam as it doesn’t have the additional support brace underneath the spring perch?View attachment 1672211
PMS 3.5 slash cut. They come free with an exhaust 😂What tail pipe trims are those matey?
I’m going to take the whole engine loom out and inspect it. Seems like a good place to start.Wonder if any issues in the bulkhead loom connector next to washer bottle or uch playing up regarding the washer jets.
This Might sound daft, but I've had on a couple of occasions the solid red immobiliser light flash up after extended periods of storage. Wouldn't crank and all dash lights would go out. Car shuts off completely.So after @Brigsy advice above, my old brain has been ticking over.
I haven’t done any checks on the car since Sunday afternoon and yet in that time, the car has gone through different states.
* Sunday 2:30 pm - a turn of the ignition = engine turns over, doesn’t fire, throws a ton of error codes including a limp mode light.
* Sunday 4:30 pm - a turn of the ignition key = Solid red immobiliser light, no cranking of the engine, no limp mode light and one completely different error code. See below:
View attachment 1676296
That’s French for “les electrics are playing up Jon, you must sort zis out, oui? ”.
Also I noticed the UCH felt a little damp - a consequence of a leaking water bottle and all this rain perhaps?
I guess dampness around the UCH could potentially lead to failures in the wiring of the windscreen and washer jet pump. Essentially that’s what’s happened.
The other none starting and error codes are just a consequence of that, and to throw me off the scent no doubt.
So the UCH will be off to the EBay diesel pump guy to see what’s happening. 🤞🏻
Thank you for reading.
Good to know Daniel. I'm just going to send it anyway as it'll at least help me narrow things down.I find unplugging and plugging in the uch numerous times (10+) usually gives a temporary fix - this will then confirm if it’s the UCH at fault.
Only if it twice admittedly but both times that ‘fixed’ it so I knew it had to be sent off for repair.
No, it's not daft at all. I've attempted this multiple timesThis Might sound daft, but I've had on a couple of occasions the solid red immobiliser light flash up after extended periods of storage. Wouldn't crank and all dash lights would go out. Car shuts off completely.
I believe my issue is a short circuit in the two washer pump feeds between the bulkhead connector and UCH. I've got continuity running from the squib to the UCH. And also from the pump connectors to the bulkhead connector. So the only area I haven't looked at is between the bulkhead connector and the UCH.On both occasions all I had to do was lock / unlock the car a few times with the key in the ignition and try to start it every other time, a bit of trial and error essentially. Basically trying to get the immobiliser to recognise the key?
Code reading is another language completely. A Black art lol. For me anywayI know that doesn't correspond with the error codes being thrown up but worth a go surely?
I went from looking down my nose at other drivers in their inferior cars, to wondering why on earth am I still driving a pile of shite at my age.The code reader will tell you the issue but not necessarily the cause. I tend to start with the code and then understand all the parts in between and work from there. I like looking at the wiring diagrams and the like.
An example is a radiator fan, it wasn’t powering on I got a code that told me as much as it was overheating, turned out to be the fuse box after a bit of diagnostic work logically checking back from the fan.
I’m sure you’ll figure it out Jon.
Ha. I keep getting asked why I don’t buy a good car… I love my Clio and don’t care what others think. It’s a them problem not a me problem. 😉I went from looking down my nose at other drivers in their inferior cars, to wondering why on earth am I still driving a pile of shite at my age.
What a great manual Rob, that’s going to be a good read, thank you.Seen this?
This doc seems to say that DF015 is a Xenon headlight computer issue - code might be a red herring?
I sold YU54XBF last year to a chap on here, who subsequently sold it shortly after to another chap on here.Did you sell the black Clio?
You're most welcome. I did start reading through the immobiliser section but got bored quite quickly 😂What a great manual Rob, that’s going to be a good read, thank you.
I sold YU54XBF last year to a chap on here, who subsequently sold it shortly after to another chap on here.
I then sold my circuit car to a lad doing 750MC and it’s going very well.
I bought another 182 BG hill climber off another chap on here and that’s going to go out on track this year.
yeah it’s a heavy read for sure but I’ll learn a few things which is always good.You're most welcome. I did start reading through the immobiliser section but got bored quite quickly 😂
My circuit car is a bit too modified - runs a Gen 90 ECU and a lot of custom parts. And I can’t see how things would just break by me changing a squib.Wondering if you can swap a few parts between cars to help you fault find? I believe you can swap the UCH and Ecu together (@Brigsy).
Yes, as soon as it took a wobbler, I immediately switched back. It was a bit of a shock to be honest as I’ve swapped these lots of times. Bottom line - the car had a fault on those two wires anyway. I just need to focus on getting those 2 wires live again and power back to the pumps.Did you already try swapping squib back to the original?
Yep uch, ecu and key thats all you need. Id try the trophy one but dont have the oem ecu as its on standalone.You're most welcome. I did start reading through the immobiliser section but got bored quite quickly 😂
Wondering if you can swap a few parts between cars to help you fault find? I believe you can swap the UCH and Ecu together (@Brigsy).
Did you already try swapping squib back to the original?
Pretty much checked it all.Have you checked all the earth points Jon, including the earth strap?
Thanks Colin. If my posts deter any future wannabe auto electricians from messing with their Clios, then it’s all been worth it 😂Good luck mate! just read through that, what a nightmare!
So true Mark. I just did the obvious checks without getting myself into a whole world of pain. I’m sure it’ll be something daft. I‘d hate to let this one go after all the work I’ve put into it.Fair play for giving it a go mate at least. A lot of the time the generic code readers can lead you up the garden path tbh.
You will never beat product knowledge and the correct diagnostic software specific to the product either. And even then, it’s the product knowledge that gets you out the s**t as the software tries to send you up the creek without a paddle! 😂