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Restoring Little Bluey - my 182 FF ClioSport in Racing Blue
- Thread starter Mr Underhill
- Start date
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Cheers. How‘s yours coming along?
bowen86
ClioSport Club Member
Funnily enough, had a call from the powdercoater today and the subframe and other bits are done. I just couldn't get them today. Pick them up Monday.
Been keeping busy by refreshing the calipers as they were multiple colours and peeling. Stripped them back and gone for an OEM silver.
Once the subframe is back, I can get the DCI rack and ARB bolted up to it. Get the subframe on and finish of the column install.
Then on to the rear beam. Fun never stops.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Good man. look forward to the updates.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
A few small, but annoying jobs ticked off today.
First job was to replace the top of the air box which I noticed had been attacked by the previous owners (the mind boggles).
Plus I noticed the screws which I’d restored have started to rust again. So much for cold blueing eh!
I’d recently bought an air box off @Martin_172 for the cold feed pipe that goes to the actuator. I’m glad I didn’t throw it.
I gave it a bath in hot water and fairy liquid to degrease it, then agitated the grime with a detailing brush.
The result is a nice clean, but dull, bit of plastic.
But with a bit of Meguiars Ultimate Black, it soon comes up a treat.
Now for those bolts.
Cont……..
First job was to replace the top of the air box which I noticed had been attacked by the previous owners (the mind boggles).
Plus I noticed the screws which I’d restored have started to rust again. So much for cold blueing eh!
I’d recently bought an air box off @Martin_172 for the cold feed pipe that goes to the actuator. I’m glad I didn’t throw it.
I gave it a bath in hot water and fairy liquid to degrease it, then agitated the grime with a detailing brush.
The result is a nice clean, but dull, bit of plastic.
But with a bit of Meguiars Ultimate Black, it soon comes up a treat.
Now for those bolts.
Cont……..
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
So a few pages back I’d restored the air box screws using a cold blueing technique. They’ve lasted about 18 months, so I’m going to try a new method.
I’ll use the screws from the second hand air box as they’re minging. Plus in a year or so I can see how they hold up to corrosion.
First job was to get them on a wire wheel and whip the crude off them.
There’s a bit of pitting on some of them, but overall they’re reusable.
I’d also soaked them overnight in Deox-C to get some of the heavy pitting out of the torx heads.
They came up quite well.
I’m not going to cold blue them, but instead I applied some heat, then dropped them into a glass of ACF-50. Olive oil, rapeseed oil all work, but I wanted a darker effect.
They certainly have the blueing effect I require, so we’ll see how long they last.
One word of caution. ACF-50 is more volatile than Olive Oil, which can handle higher temps. Don’t heat the bolts too much. Ask me how I know 😂 ⚠️☠️⚰️🔥
All you need to do is apply enough heat to the bolt so it starts to darken slightly, then drop them in the oil.
I’ll use the screws from the second hand air box as they’re minging. Plus in a year or so I can see how they hold up to corrosion.
First job was to get them on a wire wheel and whip the crude off them.
There’s a bit of pitting on some of them, but overall they’re reusable.
I’d also soaked them overnight in Deox-C to get some of the heavy pitting out of the torx heads.
They came up quite well.
I’m not going to cold blue them, but instead I applied some heat, then dropped them into a glass of ACF-50. Olive oil, rapeseed oil all work, but I wanted a darker effect.
They certainly have the blueing effect I require, so we’ll see how long they last.
One word of caution. ACF-50 is more volatile than Olive Oil, which can handle higher temps. Don’t heat the bolts too much. Ask me how I know 😂 ⚠️☠️⚰️🔥
All you need to do is apply enough heat to the bolt so it starts to darken slightly, then drop them in the oil.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Last couple of posts for today.
Wheel dilemma and what to do. I’m of the opinion my car needs 15” wheels. Purely because it’s set up for circuit and 16” wheels bury themselves in the arches.
I’ve priced up some X3MA Evo Corse, just a shade under £900 🫣 When you factor in road tyres (have to be PS3s) you’re into £1,300. A lot of money. Plus the stickers make the wheels, which adds to the stress of kerbing.
I love the TD Pro Race 1.2s but the ones I have are for circuit so if I can find another set then I’ll probably do that.
I do have some really tidy Turinis which are the original 172 Cup 38.5 offset in a dark anthracite, but they’re 16”.
They’re in top condition so I guess I could sell these to help fund new wheels.
Decisions, decisions.
Wheel dilemma and what to do. I’m of the opinion my car needs 15” wheels. Purely because it’s set up for circuit and 16” wheels bury themselves in the arches.
I’ve priced up some X3MA Evo Corse, just a shade under £900 🫣 When you factor in road tyres (have to be PS3s) you’re into £1,300. A lot of money. Plus the stickers make the wheels, which adds to the stress of kerbing.
I love the TD Pro Race 1.2s but the ones I have are for circuit so if I can find another set then I’ll probably do that.
I do have some really tidy Turinis which are the original 172 Cup 38.5 offset in a dark anthracite, but they’re 16”.
They’re in top condition so I guess I could sell these to help fund new wheels.
Decisions, decisions.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Lastly, the wind took the door out of my hand and it’s finished off the checkstrap pivot bolt.
It wasn’t the best condition and I’d contemplated replacing it, but now it has an annoying knock/clunk which does my nut in.
NLA from Renault but eBay has plenty of cheap Chinese knockoffs. Has anybody fitted an aftermarket one or know who makes these for Renault?
Thank you for reading.
It wasn’t the best condition and I’d contemplated replacing it, but now it has an annoying knock/clunk which does my nut in.
NLA from Renault but eBay has plenty of cheap Chinese knockoffs. Has anybody fitted an aftermarket one or know who makes these for Renault?
Thank you for reading.
clio_ross
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
I ordered one of these ones from autodoc for my driver’s door (admittedly it was £12.15 back in 2021, so might be cheaper options on eBay etc these days). Gave it it a good coating of white lithium grease when fitting and it’s its spot on for the bit of Chinesium that it is.
Darryl_1983
ClioSport Club Member
RB 182 Cup
Sorting the driving position out with better seats and a smaller steering wheel is a must on these cars in my opinion. The standard seats and steering wheel ruin the car for me. Though I am 6 foot 3, so that doesn't help.
And it's not like it couldn't be put back to standard in a day anyway.
I remember paying £560 for a brand new set of 15" pro race 1.2, with AD08R's fitted from demon tweeks including delivery and with fitting kit. Doesn't seem that long ago now, but guess it must have been 5+ years ago. Times have definitely changed.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
The position of the steering wheel is ideal for me tbh. A lot of people sit far back with their arms straight. Watching YouTube me thinks 😂 I’m at Croft in Sept so I’ll feedback on the position, but so far everything seems just right for my style of driving 🤞🏻
TD have changed the wheels to a slightly different shape. Not keen tbh.
What are you smoking these days? And who bought my old Clio? Anybody in the forum?
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Thank you for the feedback fella 😀
SharpyClio
ClioSport Club Member
I don’t know how people drive with straight arms, it feels horrible and I don’t feel like I’ve got control of the car.
Cars looking mint as per Jon. Wheels are a dilemma I’m having as well. Think I need three sets… winter set, track set and daily set… so about £2.5k of wheels and tyre lol.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Thanks Rich. Just a fine balance I guess. Trying to get around Cadwell is tricky if you’re sitting too far back. Not too bad at Croft as the corners are faster. Incidentally, how’s your build coming on? Don’t see many updates these days. Still places at Croft on 25th 😉
SharpyClio
ClioSport Club Member
Not really much to report. Got a half cage and passenger seat to fit but not had time, should be getting on with that back end of Sept. Then I need to sort out some suspension issues with the front shocks grabbing the springs, probably end up with coilovers and solid top mounts.
So plenty to come.
Also need to book some track days
Darryl_1983
ClioSport Club Member
RB 182 Cup
Think the steering wheel QR I had was 70mm deep, so with the bucket seats as low as possible, it was a really comfortable fit for me. I've still got my bucket seat and subframe in the garage in case I get another (the 172 cup up this week was tempting).
Bought a Z4 3.0si, as I fancied another convertible, I've started to miss having a 182 now though. Tempted to sell my 530d GT and pick up a 200, or something similar, makes no sense practically, but in my head having a convertible and a Clio would be ideal, the 182 just isn't big enough for me to get the kids in the back with a bucket seat fitted.
Chap that bought the BG is a forum member, just not very active. I believe he messaged you prior to coming to look at the car, as he'd read you're build thread.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Pushing on as I only have a few days spare between now and Croft in Sept.
A morning on the brakes and changing the fluid.
DS2500 in the rear.
DS1.11 in the front with new Brembo HC discs.
Always liked that combination.
Plus it’s an opportunity to re-torque the bolts, get some more ACF-50 in the hard to see/reach areas and have a general tidy up. 18 months in, everything is still holding up well.
Started pushing new Brake fluid through but got rained off ☔️☔️
While I was watching the deluge I grabbed my heating gun and put some colour back in to my rear seat belt plastic pushy in things.
Thank you for reading.
A morning on the brakes and changing the fluid.
DS2500 in the rear.
DS1.11 in the front with new Brembo HC discs.
Always liked that combination.
Plus it’s an opportunity to re-torque the bolts, get some more ACF-50 in the hard to see/reach areas and have a general tidy up. 18 months in, everything is still holding up well.
Started pushing new Brake fluid through but got rained off ☔️☔️
While I was watching the deluge I grabbed my heating gun and put some colour back in to my rear seat belt plastic pushy in things.
Thank you for reading.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Great updates mate. Heatgun trick on the seatbelt stalks looks bang on, ill do that on mine.
Acf50 is recommended for the ceramic coating on the exhaust manifolds to protect the coating and aid cleaning. It burnishes into the finish, smokes like feck on fire up. Didnt realise it goes up
ive done it tons of times on the trophy.
Acf50 is recommended for the ceramic coating on the exhaust manifolds to protect the coating and aid cleaning. It burnishes into the finish, smokes like feck on fire up. Didnt realise it goes up
ive done it tons of times on the trophy.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
I lobbed a really hot bolt into a glass of it and immediately filled the kitchen with smoke. It didn’t ignite as it wasn’t red hot - I’m not sure of the flash point - but I wouldn’t like to think there was a naked flame near it. I’m probably being over dramatic but I jumped out of my skin 😂 The missus isn’t happy.Great updates mate. Heatgun trick on the seatbelt stalks looks bang on, ill do that on mine.
Acf50 is recommended for the ceramic coating on the exhaust manifolds to protect the coating and aid cleaning. It burnishes into the finish, smokes like feck on fire up. Didnt realise it goes up
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
ACF shouldn't be flammable, it's made for the aerospace industry.
Anything is flammable if you get it hot enough I suppose 😅
Anything is flammable if you get it hot enough I suppose 😅
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Good to know 😊
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Throughout my six years of owning and restoring my 182s, I've always preferred genuine parts.
However, due to occasional supply constraints, I've had to fit non-branded parts from OEM manufacturers on a few occasions.
Here's a small list of these alternative parts, which might be useful for fellow enthusiasts. I've also reached out to Admin to explore the possibility of creating a dedicated page for sharing such information keeping it all in one place, so we'll see what happens.
Oil Filter - P/N (8200768913) - OEM Mfr. Purflux P/N (LS932)
Air Filter - P/N (8200459852) - OEM Mfr. Purflux P/N (A1224)
Cabin Filter A/C P/N (7711228912) - OEM Mfr. Purflux P/N. (AH143)
Fuel Filter - P/N (7700845961) - OEM Mfr. Purflux P/N (EP210)
Injectors - P/N (8200207049) - OEM Mfr. Magnetti Marelli P/N (805001446001 IWP042)
Clutch Kit - P/N (7701476557) - OEM Mfr. Valeo P/N (826558)
Lambda Oxygen Sensors - P/N (7700107433) - OEM Mfr. Bosch (0258006046)
Spark Plugs - P/N (8200239321) - OEM Mfr. NGK PFR6E-10 P/N (087295136881)
Throttle Body - P/N (8200110994) - OEM Mfr. VDO P/N (A2C59513667)
Alternator - P/N (8200193100) - OEM Mfr. Lucas P/N (LRA02100)
Starter Motor - P/N (7711134301) - OEM Mfr. Lucas P/N (LRT00235)
Clutch Guide Tube - P/N (8200128328) - OEM Mfr. Corteco P/N (49376781)
Manifold Pressure Sensor - P/N (223650035R) - OEM Mfr. Continental/VDO P/N (5WK9681Z)
Intake Temp Sensor - P/N (7700101451) - OEM Mfr. Lucas P/N (SNB984)
RH Front Caliper - P/N (7701205833) - OEM Mfr. TRW-Lucas P/N (BHW242)
LH Front Caliper - P/N (7701205832) - OEM Mfr. TRW-Lucas P/N (BHW241)
RH Caliper Carrier - P/N (7701047929) - OEM Mfr. TRW-LUCAS P/N (BDA492)
LH Caliper Carrier - P/N (7701047928) - OEM Mfr. TRW-LUCAS P/N (BDA491)
However, due to occasional supply constraints, I've had to fit non-branded parts from OEM manufacturers on a few occasions.
Here's a small list of these alternative parts, which might be useful for fellow enthusiasts. I've also reached out to Admin to explore the possibility of creating a dedicated page for sharing such information keeping it all in one place, so we'll see what happens.
Oil Filter - P/N (8200768913) - OEM Mfr. Purflux P/N (LS932)
Air Filter - P/N (8200459852) - OEM Mfr. Purflux P/N (A1224)
Cabin Filter A/C P/N (7711228912) - OEM Mfr. Purflux P/N. (AH143)
Fuel Filter - P/N (7700845961) - OEM Mfr. Purflux P/N (EP210)
Injectors - P/N (8200207049) - OEM Mfr. Magnetti Marelli P/N (805001446001 IWP042)
Clutch Kit - P/N (7701476557) - OEM Mfr. Valeo P/N (826558)
Lambda Oxygen Sensors - P/N (7700107433) - OEM Mfr. Bosch (0258006046)
Spark Plugs - P/N (8200239321) - OEM Mfr. NGK PFR6E-10 P/N (087295136881)
Throttle Body - P/N (8200110994) - OEM Mfr. VDO P/N (A2C59513667)
Alternator - P/N (8200193100) - OEM Mfr. Lucas P/N (LRA02100)
Starter Motor - P/N (7711134301) - OEM Mfr. Lucas P/N (LRT00235)
Clutch Guide Tube - P/N (8200128328) - OEM Mfr. Corteco P/N (49376781)
Manifold Pressure Sensor - P/N (223650035R) - OEM Mfr. Continental/VDO P/N (5WK9681Z)
Intake Temp Sensor - P/N (7700101451) - OEM Mfr. Lucas P/N (SNB984)
RH Front Caliper - P/N (7701205833) - OEM Mfr. TRW-Lucas P/N (BHW242)
LH Front Caliper - P/N (7701205832) - OEM Mfr. TRW-Lucas P/N (BHW241)
RH Caliper Carrier - P/N (7701047929) - OEM Mfr. TRW-LUCAS P/N (BDA492)
LH Caliper Carrier - P/N (7701047928) - OEM Mfr. TRW-LUCAS P/N (BDA491)
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
My new checkstrap arrived. I went for a decent make as the cheapos are a bit flimsy.
Removed the speaker, door handles and electric window/mirror switches.
4 screws at the bottom of the door then lifted the cover up and off.
It came off a bit too easy.
On further inspection you can see it’s been off before. Little to no Butyl sealer at all plus some snapped plugs. I’m surprised it hasn’t leaked.
1 torx screw and two small 10mm bolts and the old checkstrap was off. That’s 19 years of wear and tear right there.
Cont……
Removed the speaker, door handles and electric window/mirror switches.
4 screws at the bottom of the door then lifted the cover up and off.
It came off a bit too easy.
On further inspection you can see it’s been off before. Little to no Butyl sealer at all plus some snapped plugs. I’m surprised it hasn’t leaked.
1 torx screw and two small 10mm bolts and the old checkstrap was off. That’s 19 years of wear and tear right there.
Cont……
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
With the new checkstrap in, it was a good opportunity to remove the door pins to check for wear. Not bad condition considering.
Gave all the hinges a good washout with WD-40, then applied some White Lithium Grease to the pins and strap.
Last job was to apply some Butyl sealing tape around the door cards.
Really easy job as there’s a dotted line all the way around for you to follow.
Stuck the panel back on then gave everything a clean up.
Job sorted.
It feels like a new door. No squeaks or knocks. Lovely job.
My granddaughter loves this car. And so does grandad 😂
Thank you for reading.
Gave all the hinges a good washout with WD-40, then applied some White Lithium Grease to the pins and strap.
Last job was to apply some Butyl sealing tape around the door cards.
Really easy job as there’s a dotted line all the way around for you to follow.
Stuck the panel back on then gave everything a clean up.
Job sorted.
It feels like a new door. No squeaks or knocks. Lovely job.
My granddaughter loves this car. And so does grandad 😂
Thank you for reading.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Finally caught up with the latest updates to the thread.
The car went into a friend's garage last week to get the PAS pump changed over as I just don't have any more spare time in Sept.
All seemed to go well and the steering feels much better. However, he discovered a small leak from the air-con condenser, and a broken headlamp washer (I know who did it) so those are jobs for next year.
Gave her a proper runout on Saturday up Buttertubs pass, then onto Tan Hill. A back-breaking drive, not enjoyable at all which has sort of convinced me of my next move.
Other than that, I've just been keeping her clean and tidy and noticing small things like missing grommets, broken clips etc.....
The hunt for spare parts continues.
I have a day booked at Croft on the 25th. Come along and say hi if you're at a loose end.
Thank you for reading.
The car went into a friend's garage last week to get the PAS pump changed over as I just don't have any more spare time in Sept.
All seemed to go well and the steering feels much better. However, he discovered a small leak from the air-con condenser, and a broken headlamp washer (I know who did it) so those are jobs for next year.
Gave her a proper runout on Saturday up Buttertubs pass, then onto Tan Hill. A back-breaking drive, not enjoyable at all which has sort of convinced me of my next move.
Other than that, I've just been keeping her clean and tidy and noticing small things like missing grommets, broken clips etc.....
The hunt for spare parts continues.
I have a day booked at Croft on the 25th. Come along and say hi if you're at a loose end.
Thank you for reading.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Early start today collecting the new car, so I’ll be able to retire the RB from Trackday duties before it’s even started.
I’ve a fair bit to say about this purchase but I’ll keep my powder dry for later.
I’ve started a thread over at https://cliosport.net/threads/new-clio-182-track-project.847854/#post-12475943 where I’ll be converting it from a hill climber to a trackday car. It would appear some people don’t know the difference. 🫤
It won’t be a long thread, I promise 🤞🏻
I’m still going over to Croft on Monday in the RB as I’m meeting some mates and also doing a few small tests whilst there.
But therein after she’s going back to standard, unless I bin it 🥴
With that in mind, I thought it would a good idea to change the oil and air filter and give her some fresh oil.
I picked up this cheap little wrench a while back as I got sick of ripping the skin off my hands sticking a screwdriver through the filter. It saves a lot of time and allows easy access. Just whip the fuel rail guard off and jobs a good un. Cost me a fiver on Amazon. 76mm and 12 flutes if anybody is looking for one.
People in the know are also aware that Purflux make filters for Renault but at a third of the cost.
Final job was to fix an annoying cross threaded bolt in the lower part of the air box.
Managed to pick up another bracket with an original Renault bolt (I’m proper sad).
And that’s that job out of the way.
Thank you for reading.
I’ve a fair bit to say about this purchase but I’ll keep my powder dry for later.
I’ve started a thread over at https://cliosport.net/threads/new-clio-182-track-project.847854/#post-12475943 where I’ll be converting it from a hill climber to a trackday car. It would appear some people don’t know the difference. 🫤
It won’t be a long thread, I promise 🤞🏻
I’m still going over to Croft on Monday in the RB as I’m meeting some mates and also doing a few small tests whilst there.
But therein after she’s going back to standard, unless I bin it 🥴
With that in mind, I thought it would a good idea to change the oil and air filter and give her some fresh oil.
I picked up this cheap little wrench a while back as I got sick of ripping the skin off my hands sticking a screwdriver through the filter. It saves a lot of time and allows easy access. Just whip the fuel rail guard off and jobs a good un. Cost me a fiver on Amazon. 76mm and 12 flutes if anybody is looking for one.
People in the know are also aware that Purflux make filters for Renault but at a third of the cost.
Final job was to fix an annoying cross threaded bolt in the lower part of the air box.
Managed to pick up another bracket with an original Renault bolt (I’m proper sad).
And that’s that job out of the way.
Thank you for reading.
Last edited:
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Up early for Croft. Car loaded up with everything but the kitchen sink.
Met up with the lads from work.
Damp start but it soon dried up.
I can’t really say much more about the RB other than it handled like a boat. But that’s good because 1) I know why and 2) it’s all about the experience.
Managed 3 sessions before the power steering pump went again…. Early bath!
And I’m glad tbh as it meant I didn’t have to thrash it around. So many great comments from people visiting the garage about how nice the car is. That made the project all worthwhile.
I think that’s pretty much it for this thread. The cars is going back to factory and you all know what that looks like 😂 Putting all my energy into the track car now.
Thank you to everybody who has contributed to the project in one way or another. I’ve really enjoy sharing the experience with you all.
On to the next chapter 😊 🚓💨💨💨💨💨
Thank you for reading and Tara for now.
Met up with the lads from work.
Damp start but it soon dried up.
I can’t really say much more about the RB other than it handled like a boat. But that’s good because 1) I know why and 2) it’s all about the experience.
Managed 3 sessions before the power steering pump went again…. Early bath!
And I’m glad tbh as it meant I didn’t have to thrash it around. So many great comments from people visiting the garage about how nice the car is. That made the project all worthwhile.
I think that’s pretty much it for this thread. The cars is going back to factory and you all know what that looks like 😂 Putting all my energy into the track car now.
Thank you to everybody who has contributed to the project in one way or another. I’ve really enjoy sharing the experience with you all.
On to the next chapter 😊 🚓💨💨💨💨💨
Thank you for reading and Tara for now.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Put a shift in today getting everything back to factory on the RB.
ASTs off, Recaros out, DS1.11s boxed up. And gave everything a proper check over, tidy up and a good coating of ACF50.
And it’s staying that way. Took her for a spin and it’s so comfortable and compliant. I love it!
When I was checking the seat runners and lubricating the mechanisms, I noticed a small black handle to the left of the drivers seat.
In all the years of owning a 182, I had no idea the drivers seat was height adjustable 🤦🏻♂️😂
Sold the Recaros earlier in the week and got them wrapped up for the new owner. Amazing seats but too good to hoon around a circuit.
The focus will now be the track car. I’ve pretty much made up my mind on what I’m going to do with it.
Thank you for reading.
ASTs off, Recaros out, DS1.11s boxed up. And gave everything a proper check over, tidy up and a good coating of ACF50.
And it’s staying that way. Took her for a spin and it’s so comfortable and compliant. I love it!
When I was checking the seat runners and lubricating the mechanisms, I noticed a small black handle to the left of the drivers seat.
In all the years of owning a 182, I had no idea the drivers seat was height adjustable 🤦🏻♂️😂
Sold the Recaros earlier in the week and got them wrapped up for the new owner. Amazing seats but too good to hoon around a circuit.
The focus will now be the track car. I’ve pretty much made up my mind on what I’m going to do with it.
Thank you for reading.
SharpyClio
ClioSport Club Member
Loving your work Jon. I realised the seats were height adjustable when I took it out, but it was on its lowest setting which isn’t really that low.
Looking forward to seeing the updates on the track car
Looking forward to seeing the updates on the track car
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
I wasn’t going to update this, but I guess it’s worth it for the thread.
I was hoping to get the PAS pump switched over after the last one failed at Croft. A friends garage did the last one, and funnily enough he didn’t want to do another one. Even work turned me down 😂, so I guess it’s down to me.
So I got cracking after the storm had passed and although it was cold, didn’t seem too bad. Lots of covers on the floor in case the bumper slipped and frog tape on the wings to avoid scratches.
Took about an hour to get the bumper off as I just took my time. I think the radiator needs looking at. Job for next year.
Whipped the sump guard off and was really pleased to see no oil leaks. Just the usual dust and crap that you pick up.
Not going to lie, it’s a job I hate, especially when you’ve got an original factory set up.
Just a case of working through it slowly removing ancillaries as you go along.
Eventually got the old pump off. It doesn’t look knackered. No obvious leaks, but there’s zero assistance. It was an old pump to be fair from my track car. My bad.
I picked up a genuine refurbished pump off eBay and will be sending the other back in exchange. Hopefully it’s a good one.
The old belt came off easy enough, but noticed it was gauged up in certain places.
After the steering started failing at Croft a few laps in, I took a slight detour across the gravel, picking up some stones, which I found in the bay once I got back to the garage. So the marks are either from stones passing between the belt and the tensioner (which also had marks on) or it wasn’t fitted correctly last time it was changed, and it’s been rubbing. Interestingly it’s only in one spot, so probably down to the stones.
Ran out of light as I had other things going on, so will persevere next weekend.
One other annoyance was discovering both headlamp nozzles were broken so those will need replacing as well 😡
I’ll admit I am a nightmare to do work for, but all I ask is the job gets done properly in the first place. Thank you for reading.
I was hoping to get the PAS pump switched over after the last one failed at Croft. A friends garage did the last one, and funnily enough he didn’t want to do another one. Even work turned me down 😂, so I guess it’s down to me.
So I got cracking after the storm had passed and although it was cold, didn’t seem too bad. Lots of covers on the floor in case the bumper slipped and frog tape on the wings to avoid scratches.
Took about an hour to get the bumper off as I just took my time. I think the radiator needs looking at. Job for next year.
Whipped the sump guard off and was really pleased to see no oil leaks. Just the usual dust and crap that you pick up.
Not going to lie, it’s a job I hate, especially when you’ve got an original factory set up.
Just a case of working through it slowly removing ancillaries as you go along.
Eventually got the old pump off. It doesn’t look knackered. No obvious leaks, but there’s zero assistance. It was an old pump to be fair from my track car. My bad.
I picked up a genuine refurbished pump off eBay and will be sending the other back in exchange. Hopefully it’s a good one.
The old belt came off easy enough, but noticed it was gauged up in certain places.
After the steering started failing at Croft a few laps in, I took a slight detour across the gravel, picking up some stones, which I found in the bay once I got back to the garage. So the marks are either from stones passing between the belt and the tensioner (which also had marks on) or it wasn’t fitted correctly last time it was changed, and it’s been rubbing. Interestingly it’s only in one spot, so probably down to the stones.
Ran out of light as I had other things going on, so will persevere next weekend.
One other annoyance was discovering both headlamp nozzles were broken so those will need replacing as well 😡
I’ll admit I am a nightmare to do work for, but all I ask is the job gets done properly in the first place. Thank you for reading.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
The Clio gods were kind with the weather today, so I cracked on with the PAS pump.
I found a company who make a similar tool to the MOT 1368 Renault tool.
The company are AST Tools - Part number AST4924. You have to order it over the phone (01527 522550) and it set me back £21 plus vat. I paid £34 all in to make sure it arrived overnight.
I know people use a Jubilee Clip but this tool compresses the tensioner spring and pivots it at the same time, making it a much easier job.
The tool has a 1/2 inch drive, so all you need is a 3/8 drain plug.
The plug does need a bit of modification so it fits snuggly into the tensioner. I’ve read many stories of people snapping the tensioner using the Renault tool, but I reckon it’s because they haven’t pushed the tool in squarely.
The mod.
As I was doing the job myself, I used a couple of cable ties over the belt to help pull the belt over the alternator pulley. I also removed the top alternator bolt to give me some extra flex and removed the bolt which holds the air con pipe. Worked a treat.
I couldn’t get a genuine Renault belt, so opted for one from Gates. I checked the sizes prior to fitting and they’re identical in length. I’ve read some belts are a few mm shorter.
The job took no more than 15 minutes and I can see there’s more space between the tensioner and water pump pulley.
Job done. Now to fix the washer jets.
I found a company who make a similar tool to the MOT 1368 Renault tool.
The company are AST Tools - Part number AST4924. You have to order it over the phone (01527 522550) and it set me back £21 plus vat. I paid £34 all in to make sure it arrived overnight.
I know people use a Jubilee Clip but this tool compresses the tensioner spring and pivots it at the same time, making it a much easier job.
The tool has a 1/2 inch drive, so all you need is a 3/8 drain plug.
The plug does need a bit of modification so it fits snuggly into the tensioner. I’ve read many stories of people snapping the tensioner using the Renault tool, but I reckon it’s because they haven’t pushed the tool in squarely.
The mod.
As I was doing the job myself, I used a couple of cable ties over the belt to help pull the belt over the alternator pulley. I also removed the top alternator bolt to give me some extra flex and removed the bolt which holds the air con pipe. Worked a treat.
I couldn’t get a genuine Renault belt, so opted for one from Gates. I checked the sizes prior to fitting and they’re identical in length. I’ve read some belts are a few mm shorter.
The job took no more than 15 minutes and I can see there’s more space between the tensioner and water pump pulley.
Job done. Now to fix the washer jets.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
I’m not sure who’s to blame for breaking these, but it wasn’t me 😂 and I guess 20 year plastic does become brittle. You can see where they tried to glue them.
Anyway, £41 later I had some brand new ones.
They’re sided so just be mindful of that if your replacing them.
I also noticed the plastic air dam and under guard had departed from the bumper. So i refixed that to the bumper with some pop rivets.
Reassembled everything and fitted some new plates. The front one’s dodgy so I might get pulled by the cops if I catch them on the wrong day. My son said he would happily pull me over 😆
I gave the underneath a proper going over with ACF-50 and some wax oil as the car is now going full time on the road, so will need to last the winter.
Thanks for reading.
Anyway, £41 later I had some brand new ones.
They’re sided so just be mindful of that if your replacing them.
I also noticed the plastic air dam and under guard had departed from the bumper. So i refixed that to the bumper with some pop rivets.
Reassembled everything and fitted some new plates. The front one’s dodgy so I might get pulled by the cops if I catch them on the wrong day. My son said he would happily pull me over 😆
I gave the underneath a proper going over with ACF-50 and some wax oil as the car is now going full time on the road, so will need to last the winter.
Thanks for reading.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Gave her a quick run out down to the Gare. Wow, the steering is perfect now.
If you go back to beginning of this thread, you’ll see me refer to the steering feeling vague and heavy compared to my old BG.
I thought it was always down to the previous owner using cheap parts and the obvious faults I found with it. And whilst I improved it, it was clearly a couple of power steering pumps not quite working 100%.
Now everything feels responsive and properly weighted and balanced. They’re so good to drive when they’re stock and in good condition. Can’t wait to stick some miles on her now.
If you go back to beginning of this thread, you’ll see me refer to the steering feeling vague and heavy compared to my old BG.
I thought it was always down to the previous owner using cheap parts and the obvious faults I found with it. And whilst I improved it, it was clearly a couple of power steering pumps not quite working 100%.
Now everything feels responsive and properly weighted and balanced. They’re so good to drive when they’re stock and in good condition. Can’t wait to stick some miles on her now.
NickReilly063
ClioSport Club Member
182 Trophy Rs265
Lovely Mr Underhill - Top work as usual.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
The company car has gone back so she’s my transport for the next 6 months.
As she won’t be covered, I ticked off a small job replacing the small seal under the spoiler.
I’ll be washing the car more regularly now and this seal stops water going up between the glass/spoiler and into the tailgate/car. Especially when using a karcher.
I had some butyl sealing tape from when I did the door latch, so it’ll do the job.
Takes all of 10 minutes start to finish, so a job worth doing, especially with all the rain we’ve been getting.
Checked the power steering pump and no leaks. No marks on the new aux belt either, so I’ll tick that one off as a success - famous last words.
There’s still a few small jobs that need doing, mainly around missing grommets and a couple of door seals which I’ve pretty much zero chance of finding, but aren’t detrimental to the car.
I also dug my CUP Turinis out and am going to get them repainted in factory Silver, then switch over the CUP wheels.
Here they are on my old BG before I had them repainted in Anthracite. I think they’ll look great in Silver against the Blue.
Looking forward to finally sticking some miles on her. That’s it for now, thank you for reading.
As she won’t be covered, I ticked off a small job replacing the small seal under the spoiler.
I’ll be washing the car more regularly now and this seal stops water going up between the glass/spoiler and into the tailgate/car. Especially when using a karcher.
I had some butyl sealing tape from when I did the door latch, so it’ll do the job.
Takes all of 10 minutes start to finish, so a job worth doing, especially with all the rain we’ve been getting.
Checked the power steering pump and no leaks. No marks on the new aux belt either, so I’ll tick that one off as a success - famous last words.
There’s still a few small jobs that need doing, mainly around missing grommets and a couple of door seals which I’ve pretty much zero chance of finding, but aren’t detrimental to the car.
I also dug my CUP Turinis out and am going to get them repainted in factory Silver, then switch over the CUP wheels.
Here they are on my old BG before I had them repainted in Anthracite. I think they’ll look great in Silver against the Blue.
Looking forward to finally sticking some miles on her. That’s it for now, thank you for reading.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Ticked up just under a 1,000 miles in the last few weeks. Everything going splendid until the windscreen washers packed in and an EML light appeared on the way into work yesterday.
Ran a diagnostic and it looked like the pre-cat lambda was having a wobbler. I’d already replaced the post-cat sensor when I bought a new exhaust and cell cat earlier in the year.
Luckily I work for a dealership, so was able to source a new lambda sensor and a washer pump the same day.
What a pain doing the sensor on the driveway. It was flippin tight and I only had a small 22mm spanner so couldn’t get any leverage. So I cut the wire off the old one, then got a socket and breaker bar on it.
Trying to get my big fingers behind the ARB to reconnect the wires was testing my patience, but I got there in the end.
A much easier job was the wiper pump motor, although the wiper arms were proper tight. Fortunately I had a tool for that.
Looks like somebody has been here before.
Did a few tests and the old pump is dead.
Whipped the bottle out and gave that a clean, then cleaned up the wiper mechanism and reapplied grease. Put the new pump in, tested it, then reassembled everything.
Replaced any rusty nuts with new ones, then gave the plastics a good clean with ACF-50. It’s great for breathing life into old black plastic.
Job done and the wipers are so quiet now.
Hopefully that’s it for over the winter as the only parts I didn’t replace during the resto, have all broken down. 😅 Everything else is pretty much new 🤞🏻
Thank you for reading.
Ran a diagnostic and it looked like the pre-cat lambda was having a wobbler. I’d already replaced the post-cat sensor when I bought a new exhaust and cell cat earlier in the year.
Luckily I work for a dealership, so was able to source a new lambda sensor and a washer pump the same day.
What a pain doing the sensor on the driveway. It was flippin tight and I only had a small 22mm spanner so couldn’t get any leverage. So I cut the wire off the old one, then got a socket and breaker bar on it.
Trying to get my big fingers behind the ARB to reconnect the wires was testing my patience, but I got there in the end.
A much easier job was the wiper pump motor, although the wiper arms were proper tight. Fortunately I had a tool for that.
Looks like somebody has been here before.
Did a few tests and the old pump is dead.
Whipped the bottle out and gave that a clean, then cleaned up the wiper mechanism and reapplied grease. Put the new pump in, tested it, then reassembled everything.
Replaced any rusty nuts with new ones, then gave the plastics a good clean with ACF-50. It’s great for breathing life into old black plastic.
Job done and the wipers are so quiet now.
Hopefully that’s it for over the winter as the only parts I didn’t replace during the resto, have all broken down. 😅 Everything else is pretty much new 🤞🏻
Thank you for reading.
