What's new
By:
ClioSport.net

This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

Russ_16v's ITB'd & Caged 182 Track Car (Was Crispy's)

Jonny1*2 said:
Nice as always mate. ECU inside? Are you running on omen alone now?
Click to expand...

There is a small standard loom which I have hidden in the fire wall. But yes the OMEX ecu is now located inside the car in a nice tidy Place :)

Conlon said:
where did you locate them bits from for the heater matrix delete, the 180 degrre pipe and the metal pipe?
Click to expand...

I bought the 19mm 180degree silicon bend from eBay. Just type 180 degree silicon bend into eBay and you'll find one. I also just typed in 19mm alloy pipe in eBay.

bomber said:
I had those hose clips in mine for 3 days, they're gobshite and most failed. Will be worth piece of mind to change them :)

Rest looks minty mint
Click to expand...

I thought the hose clips I had were the right ones. I'm not sure I know the difference betweeen jubilee clips and the ones I have.
 
Small Update again :)

Sorted the battery out today after work. Pics are bad because it was getting dark!

So i had mounted my battery under the passenger seat when i got the battery a year or so ago and i had decided on a place to mount the cut off switch in a place where i wouldnt knock it but could get to it easy if strapped in.

487cdc9a.webp


I had one huge length of battery cable which i started to cut and place new eyeconnectors on the end.

a9e3459a.webp


And then cut the last bit to length to go into the firewall

9da0897d.webp


fa1819d4.webp


Just have to connect some earths and i suppose i better go get some fuel!!!!!!
 
Epic build mate! This sort of build is my aim eventually. Studying motorsport as well at college, going on to do my degree in September, cant wait now! Inspirational thread! :D
 
You've not made a fail mate, cutting the + is fine but I assume you know that you also need to wire in the auxiliary contacts on the cut off switch?
The N/O contact is used to kill the ignition and the N/C contact is used to dissipate the remaining charge coming from the alternator, via a ceramic resistor, 3 ohm form memory.
If you bought the switch new, you should have the diagram with it which shows you how to do it, dead easy, you'll manage it no probs.
 
chrispy.clio said:
Have a made a big fail?

I thought you had to cut the power to the whole car?
Click to expand...

I didnt think so mate, but looks like i've learned something today :) Is the wire going to stay there perminantly? Not very neat by your standards ;)

Kenny.s said:
You've not made a fail mate, cutting the + is fine but I assume you know that you also need to wire in the auxiliary contacts on the cut off switch?
The N/O contact is used to kill the ignition and the N/C contact is basically used to stop the Alternator charging via the ceramic resistor (3ohm from memory) or it will continue to run the car.
If you bought the switch new, you should have the diagram with it which shows you how to do it, dead easy, you'll manage it no probs.
Click to expand...

In english? Always wondered why them come with a relay looking thing on the bottom.
 
ahhhhhhhhh i currently have my cut off switch wired in exactly the same as you. could this cause a battery going flat? even if the key is hardly ever removed?
 
Kenny.s said:
You've not made a fail mate, cutting the + is fine but I assume you know that you also need to wire in the auxiliary contacts on the cut off switch?
The N/O contact is used to kill the ignition and the N/C contact is used to dissipate the remaining charge coming from the alternator, via a ceramic resistor, 3 ohm form memory.
If you bought the switch new, you should have the diagram with it which shows you how to do it, dead easy, you'll manage it no probs.
Click to expand...

I think i know what you mean. I have the ceramic resistor but dont have any instructions. At the end of the day yes i want the cut off switch for if i bin it on track but also want it because it adds a bit more security to the car when i leave it parked at the ring when i sort of put it back on the road.

Jonny1*2 said:
I didnt think so mate, but looks like i've learned something today :) Is the wire going to stay there perminantly? Not very neat by your standards ;)

In english? Always wondered why them come with a relay looking thing on the bottom.
Click to expand...

Well your right is doesnt look neat and i had thought about running the cable underneath the tunnel but then it will obviously be right next to the exhaust and i dont have heat protection atm. I'll have another think!
 
RE: Heater matrix delete pipe, that 180 degree pipe 19mm ID, would that fit on the OE heater matrix pipes ok? I'm doing exactly the same in my engine bay. Did you buy it from 'autoperformanceonline' from E Bay ;)

Massive props to you on this project, attention to detail is awesome
 
chrispy.clio said:
Right really need some of your thoughts.

After my most epic failure ever today i need to buy my windows asap before it starts to rain too hard!!!

So striaght to the point, on the front sliders should i get 4 holes, 1 large hole or just the usuall square cut out.

Have a look in the gallery on the website.

http://www.acwmotorsportplastics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=page&id=5

Thanks
Click to expand...

There's more to this than I first thought too. Do you fancy doing a wee guide once you've cracked it?

I fancy doing this too but am lost so far. :S
 
4 holes def looks better and better security wise too I guess. Practicality wise what would you need a big hole for?
 
Going back to the switch thing. It will keep running if you just cut the battery cable with the switch with power from the alternator. AND potentialy,theoreticly, not very likely f**k ecu and looms etc.

Heres a diagram for it........

http://www.bmsc.com.au/forums/attac...numpty-electrical-question-cut-fia-switch.jpg

Easy as wee to wire up. just run the live feed to the coil to it as per the diagram. That way when you switch it off it WILL STOP no question.

Another thing to note is that these switches need replacing from time to time as they wear. If its an ebay special expect to have to stick a new one on after a year or 2


HTH
 
Kenny.s said:
I'd go with the square cut out, gives you the option to pass things through the window if need be

I'm pretty sure most of these kill switches will be the same, have a look at this http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Images/L/4430-inst.jpg
Click to expand...

Burp said:
Going back to the switch thing. It will keep running if you just cut the battery cable with the switch with power from the alternator. AND potentialy,theoreticly, not very likely f**k ecu and looms etc.

Heres a diagram for it........

http://www.bmsc.com.au/forums/attac...numpty-electrical-question-cut-fia-switch.jpg

Easy as wee to wire up. just run the live feed to the coil to it as per the diagram. That way when you switch it off it WILL STOP no question.

Another thing to note is that these switches need replacing from time to time as they wear. If its an ebay special expect to have to stick a new one on after a year or 2


HTH
Click to expand...


That deffently cleared it up now.

I'll get on with it after I have sorted the windows issue :)
 
Right well yesterday I decided to tidy up the door and remove the rest of the electric window motors/regulators. I did this so I could then hold the glass in by putting long bolts through the metal for the glass to sit on.

Anyway cutting a long story short I couldn't get one of the clips off the bottom of the window and after a little too much force this happened

93b34fae.webp


Resulting in glass everywhere, quite possibly my biggest fail to date.

Anyway so as it had smashed into a million pieces I thought I might as well start to gut the insides of the doors. I had seen lots of different amounts people had cut off and my main aim was to cut out as much as poss.

So this is what I started with

35cee0b9.webp


after 5 mins of using the angle grinder

5eff9a6e.webp


Then after a bit more cutting

48cd0f31.webp


And I left it like that for now and will carry on with it another day.

Made some plastic windows...y0

70a8fc4c.webp


But also ordered a set of poly windows from ACW Motorsport Plastics for a pretty amazing price. I went for the 4 holes in the slider too :)
 
Last edited:
lol! I can imagine the look on your face when it smashed...followed by some mild profanity no doubt. Tony is really competitive with his pricing. I opted for thermamolded fronts to stay in the original sliders. Because I’m gay basically and not as hardcore as you lol.


Nice job cutting the door innards, looks tidy
 
Yeah fair play the passenger side is not finished still need more cutting out and needs the edges tidying up and covering
 
Yeah Tony I was really supprised how thick some of the metal was. One section is about 4mm thick near the top of where I cut.
 
better be removing that sound deadening too?
i thought that may be to much to remove as the handles wouldn't have anything strong to mount too, also i left a bit more around the edge to mount the doorcards too....

glad thats more orders for tony too, he should be stoked by the amount of clio windows he's done already....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

beddoe123
T700 PHY - Trophy 007/500 and Everything Else
Replies
9
Views
348
beddoe123
beddoe123
Jakeeaton127
First Car Project - Clio 172 PH1
2 3
Replies
86
Views
2K
Jakeeaton127
Jakeeaton127
Bowz
BG 182 cheap runabout.
Replies
12
Views
1K
Bowz
Bowz
Bushell182
Bushells RB 182
Replies
18
Views
2K
Bushell182
Bushell182
D
2015 Red Clio DCi MK4
Replies
9
Views
564
DaveL485
D
Back
Top