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sonny172cup "track car to race car project"



Yes Pete, just a bit, bloody right hand brake locked up unsettling the car.

Yep, in hindsight i wished I uprated the front springs now but didn't want to waste any more money on that suspension set up.
 
  Mk1 MX-5 (x3), Westy
Good stuff, and nice write-up :)

Seconded on the DS111s by the way, the best pads I've used (out of M1144s, RC5, RC5+, DS2500, DS3000) - good pedal feel, nice release characteristics, last ages, good price (for the calipers I have).
 
Nice one Sonny.

Looks like your current suspension setup is slowing you down though, particularly through the long sweeping turns.

If you decide to go back to standard and need a home for the willwoods let me know ;)
 
Well....this happened today :rasp:

5d71d172-72fd-4ec8-b59e-0de9ba1c5bf7_zps3e212fc1.jpg


5100, with top mounts and custom springs



These served me well.....:dead:

ae53c18a-7f72-4327-a030-d24283e71088_zps339fbe16.jpg




What do most ppl use for the rear rubber bushes, do you use the oem ones? Im using a spare set of the Spax uprated ones, will these be ok?

f9378fa3-68ab-48bf-b540-726edfb89034_zps2bb0d87a.jpg
 
  Civic FN2 Track Car
AST's look good sonny, do they not come with rear top mount bushes? If not I'm sure the spax ones will be ok as long as they fit with rattling on the shaft.

What spring rates did you go for?
 
ASTs look very nice mate... Is that front piston just RIDICULOUSLY big or is it the pictures!!???

Must have hurt the wallet a fair bit lol ;-) Bet you can't wait to try them out.

What spring rates did you go for?
 
AST's look good sonny, do they not come with rear top mount bushes? If not I'm sure the spax ones will be ok as long as they fit with rattling on the shaft

The inner metal sleeves was original, these just slide inside the older spax rubber bushes. The newer Spax rear metal sleeves was 1mm wider than the oem/ast so these would have rattled.

Spring rates are in trial and development stages at the mo ;) but they will be a race rate as this car will not see the road
 
Yes they are very wide, the 4100 are a lot thinner. Did you go for the 4100 or 5100 Martin?

Only Sportline 1 mate (which I'm assuming is now called 4100?). It's all I could afford :eek:

If it was a race car like yours then I would have some how made up the difference in price. But I got mine from Cooksport with that good deal he was offering. Only £995. Think the 5100 are about £600 on top aren't they...

But that piston does look HUGE in your pictures lol!!

Be interesting to hear your views and opinions on the kit in comparison to what you've been using already.
 
You will definitely notice the difference, I love my AST's

Is there any difference spec wise between the old sportline 2 like I have on mine and the new 5100's?
 
Mid July update:

With the ASTs on, the next job was to remove the Wilwoods, and re installed the oem calipers, with this done I bled the front system with RBF600 (my choice of brake fluid) also I shall be ordering some DS1.11 pads again from G on payday, be interesting to see what they are like with oem calipers after racing with them in the Wilwoods.

The car is booked in with Mark Fish prior to the Silverstone weekend for a corner weight session, then the next day I shall be doing the test day (Friday 8th) at Silverstone, few jobs to do on the test day, mainly to fine tune the suspension set up, examine tyre heat/pressures due to uprated springs and obviously to get used to how the car handles. Also be a bonus to get some laps in under my belt as I have never driven the National circuit. Last time I was at Silverstone was in the RS4 in 2010 and that was on the Southern Circuit.

Race weekend at Silverstone with the Triclolre Trophy, we now have our own stand alone race then a combined Nipon race. Really looking forward to this, its just a shame we dont have the numbers for both races to be stand alone, so if your thinking of racing, come and join us. I dread to think how long the days will be with 4 stand alone races though inc the Nippons.



Timings

Saturday 9th August

Sign on 0850

Scrut 0920

Race 1 1310 (stand alone)

Race 2 1740 (combined)

Will now be a long day, however not that bothered as im sticking around for the annual TARC BBQ :p
 
See you there Sonny!

I would like to do the test day as well as I have never driven Silverstone, but just don't think I will be able to.
 
How come you've gone back to standard callipers mate?
Russ
RussRallye I miss the characteristics of the oem brakes, simple on/off breaking. The Wilwoods, you just have to be so gentle and moderate the braking, otherwise they lock up, im having to brake slightly earlier into corners which is not good, I think either the car is too light or I need wider front tyres (I run 195s) to absorb the braking effort, now I know they would benefit from a break regulator which is on my to do list.
 
  Audi A6 & 172 Cup
Are you still running the standard cup servo?

Could possibly look at using a master cylinder from an ABS car, sure they're bigger diameter which would reduce the ratio when running multi piston calipers.
 
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@RussRallye I miss the characteristics of the oem brakes, simple on/off breaking. The Wilwoods, you just have to be so gentle and moderate the braking, otherwise they lock up, im having to brake slightly earlier into corners which is not good, I think either the car is too light or I need wider front tyres (I run 195s) to absorb the braking effort, now I know they would benefit from a break regulator which is on my to do list.

Something doesn't sound right, your Wilwoods should be no worse than std at least. Car not too light the lighter the better as this makes you faster everywhere (repeating what I've been told many a time). We run 205's up front have a faulty brake compensator valve tie wrapped up so a bit more braking effort goes to the rear than if it was working correctly. With the way that I brake I suspect I would have problems after 20 mins (I.E in a 40 min race) as the heat build up would be to great to shed. Can't beat the feeling\confidence of driving on fully floating AP disks and calipers but the way you brake shouldn't have to change (maybe distances) much at all between different set ups, I don't think.

I would at least find out the point each set up locks up - got a reference point then.


With the servo, are you saying you get to much force applied to the pads for the amount of pedal pressure, so a bigger dia servo would reduce this a bit?
 

Ph1 Tom

ClioSport Club Member
The Wilwoods have a smaller pad area, this would mean the pad would heat up more and dependant on the compound it might actually be getting to a point where its working more effectively than with the same pad in the standard callipers. Having four pistons should give you more modulation.

I assume its your front wheels that are locking up?
 


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