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Toastfrenzy's Tin Top, some say...........



that's pretty poor. You keep forgetting to ask me for these things Pete. I can get you anything like that very quickly and easily

Thanks Dan, I didn't want to do them myself, why I sent them to Bigg Red, though I doubt would've had this problem if I'd bought the kit. Hopefully the kit would be in a bag\box ready to go...unless they pick each item for a kit as the order comes in...
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
Hi Mark, found pic's here post 617, can you remember how they came out?

they are spot welded, drill them out with a spot weld drill bit, they come out pretty easy, dependent where your bottom hinge is in relation to the spot weld though, on one of my doors i could get to the spot welds, on the other a hinge was in the way and i had to use a bit of persuasion.
as for not removing them... the cage is there for protection,

quite alot can come out
IMG_1428.jpg

IMG_1429.jpg


and can be lightened quite a bit
IMG_1438.jpg
 
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  BMW Z4
My reasoning behind having the door skins empty (apart from weight saving) is that in a side impact my cage takes the hit and I didnt want any bits of metal in the door twanging out and jabbing me in the thigh. If it's just a flat skin that is unlikely to happen.
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
Just remember to leave a lip for mounting your door cards!

what he said, you can just about see a permanent marker line in these pics that outlines where the door card will sit...

IMG_1429.jpg



My reasoning behind having the door skins empty (apart from weight saving) is that in a side impact my cage takes the hit and I didnt want any bits of metal in the door twanging out and jabbing me in the thigh. If it's just a flat skin that is unlikely to happen.

another good way to think about it
 
£200 is a good price for both bits. Sounds like a good idea to me.

Yes, think I'll look to loose abit more weight this winter....cheaper too...

At that price you'd be silly not to get them!

Me not silly.....:eek:

they are spot welded, drill them out with a spot weld drill bit, they come out pretty easy, dependent where your bottom hinge is in relation to the spot weld though, on one of my doors i could get to the spot welds, on the other a hinge was in the way and i had to use a bit of persuasion.
as for not removing them... the cage is there for protection,

quite alot can come out



and can be lightened quite a bit

I've a bit more to come out - I left the widow slides in etc. What size hole cutter did you use, take it it's s spanner\socket job?

Just remember to leave a lip for mounting your door cards!

Ah, already cut most of the door out back in Feb and have lots of lip...- just looking at what's left to remove. The 18kg quoted above was for the door stripped\cut..

My reasoning behind having the door skins empty (apart from weight saving) is that in a side impact my cage takes the hit and I didnt want any bits of metal in the door twanging out and jabbing me in the thigh. If it's just a flat skin that is unlikely to happen.

Some good reasoning....hmmm did forget about the cage being there.
 
  Chase Racing Clio
Where are those fibreglass parts from Pete? I had a bit of a search yesterday and the best I could find was £250 for just a fibreglass bonnet.....
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
I've a bit more to come out - I left the widow slides in etc. What size hole cutter did you use, take it it's s spanner\socket job?

i think the whole was 40mm, drill out with hole saw then use a swagger to create the lip and strengthen the panel again, (see swagger below, as you say spanner and socket job)

photo1-1.jpg


IMG_1436.jpg
 
Where are those fibreglass parts from Pete? I had a bit of a search yesterday and the best I could find was £250 for just a fibreglass bonnet.....

PM Hal who is HRracing on here....both should be arriving this week...trouble is he does doors too....bit more pricey at £250 each, should be getting a door weight this week.

900kg target by the end of winter, easily done! :rasp:

Be well below that, hopefully..already 925kg with a full tank...1010kg with me in it....

i think the whole was 40mm, drill out with hole saw then use a swagger to create the lip and strengthen the panel again, (see swagger below, as you say spanner and socket job)

Easy...thanks...
 
What was the weight comparison on the boot and bonnet then?

Don't quote me - (not got the bit's to swap over yet so not removed either) I think the bonnet weighs 12 -15kg and the boot lid is close to 30 - 35kg..... down to 4.5 and 3.5 -----nice result if correct


Oooh just had a txt, there's now a massive big parcel in the stable....
 
  Clio 172
I have an aluminium bonnet on mine ;) And as for the boot 35kg's seems alot? Is that including the mechanism or just on its own with glass? You got full polycarbs as well Pete?
 
Jealous :( haha! Glad they have turned up mate and look forward to seeing them fitted

Yes me too.. the packing box is bigger in real life, not opened yet but it is bonnet and boot. Don't be jealous you've already gone 35th to 5th!! We might have a lighter car but still got to learn how to drive it...


I have an aluminium bonnet on mine ;) And as for the boot 35kg's seems alot? Is that including the mechanism or just on its own with glass? You got full polycarbs as well Pete?

I think 35kg is with glass and every thing else - glass weighs in at 7kg. Yes, have 4 sides and rear polycarbs. Forgot the Cup spoiler weighs a fair bit too (not sure if the 35kg includes this).

I remember changing a boot lid once and noted that it was mega heavy. That was with wiper motor + glass.

At 100 quid each they sound a bargain. Look forward to seeing them fitted.

Hi Mark - hoping to get them painted over the next week, doing it myself in the shed\stable....Upol acid 8 etch primer (sticks to anything) and Matt black top coat. Got a plain matt black spoiler ready to fit too. It would've been rude not to buy them really...

For £100 it is cheap and be daft not too.

Think that's my winter upgrades sorted any how.....maybe......maybe not lol......never ending hole cutting for starters.
 
What no ITBs, high comp, plate diff :(

No to ITB's - still need to improve driving before power - as has been proved already, 35th -5th with a heavier car and it's suspect mapping...

Spoke to Dan re High comp forged stuff - I don't think I understand all that this would give us, apart from a lot of engine component reliability, which would be reassuring for sure.


Diff is morethan likely the route this winter, want to get the box out for a check over as it done over 18 mths in my hands and it's been on the car from new. Not having any issues with it either. Doubt I'll go plate though - not sure I want the commitment that a plate diff would involve each year...Quailf is a lot more my stye, fit and forget...lol. I may change the flywheel at the same time too.


I was thinking I'd probably CF wrap mine, if I got some ;) Mondial blue is a pain.

Thought about wrapping, not sure how much it would cost - it would bit easier to touch up a bit of matt black paint up if needs be.

I have all winter to work that angle ;)

Whats the advantages of high comp\forged work - without ITB's for now?
 
  Golf GTD Mk7
Faster, more torque, bullet proof. Plus it doesn't need aftermarket ecu. Enough said ;) only downside is running on super unleaded. It depends what cams you run though as if you decided to upgrade to itb's later, the cams might not be as beneficial as on single throttle.
 
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  DON'T SEND ME PM'S!!
Faster, more torque, bullet proof. Plus it doesn't need aftermarket ecu. Enough said ;) only downside is running on super unleaded. It depends what cams you run though as if you decided to upgrade to itb's later, the cams might not be as beneficial as on single throttle.

Did one recently with high comp and 438s, although strangled by the overly silenced exhaust it pulled very hard indeed.

I don't see how you could see an aftermarket ECU as a downside in any way, the stock ECU is so inflexible it's very fruatrating to try to work with. Even a map that's had a lot of time and attention spent on it is never any more than best guess, to do more than that isn't possible. Pete should already be running on super, that's what it's mapped for and I told him to use.

438s will work perfectly with ITBs



In any case, that's not the route I would plan, but that's between me and Pete to discuss :)
 
  Golf GTD Mk7
I don't see how you could see an aftermarket ECU as a downside in any way, the stock ECU is so inflexible it's very fruatrating to try to work with. Even a map that's had a lot of time and attention spent on it is never any more than best guess, to do more than that isn't possible.

Not a downside mate, but a cost that isn't necessarily required on standard throttle. Mine ran fine, except at very low revs, but that shouldn't be an issue for pete
 
Faster, more torque, bullet proof. Plus it doesn't need aftermarket ecu. Enough said ;) only downside is running on super unleaded. It depends what cams you run though as if you decided to upgrade to itb's later, the cams might not be as beneficial as on single throttle.

Thanks for the info - More torque would be good....already on Super unleaded - always seems to be the same price as the diesel (run 3 diesel cars) I buy so no change\harm there. Run 438's and I think there are a few on here who already run ITB's with them.
 


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