Search results

RS lowers, especially 182's always gains the least out of any of the inlet combo's....a lot of owners can end up feeling disappointed. The least that anybody has reported is 1bhp peak gains without a remap, but that still resulted in 6bhp/lb.ft midrange gains. All in all, depends how...

I've done the test fitting today and I have to alter the pattern to clear a few intrusions. Once done the pattern will be sent off to the laser cutter to be replicated.

Its done! Well, bar 2 fuel rail mounts and his new exhaust.....not much I can do bar twiddle my thumbs until mr.postman gets here.

Your not privy to it! When were you down here?...bad luck i would of thought, as I've been off ill!

Not you ya twonk! BEN!

Its not a linear 0.5mm fore and aft tdc, it could well mash then to f**k. However, without measuring on your actual pistons, I'd find it hard or near impossible to give advice on such tolerance issues over the net. If you dont measure, you dont know. This whole idea of you (especially...

There is none on the cup.....just change the belt.

How do you know? L@TDC is not an indicator of piston/valve clearance. The 25 deg before and after tdc is where you'll most likely clip a valve, but if you dont measure, you wont know.

They should do.

long and short is......dont do it yourself ben lol. Its not hard at all, but really isnt something you'll want to bother with.

Its total SEAL.....stop saying STEEL! Unless its some new ripoff brand.

you mean the block?

No, i just dont use it.

The fuel rail nuts that hold it on are m8 but with K nuts, not normal 13mm heads.

If your going to bin it, give it to me.

Its going to get on them anyway in the oil.

Not heard that word in ages!

And injectors unplugged and spark plugs out. Drive it like normal TBH, just change the oil after the first 200 miles or so.

yea, loads of peeps use it, but you cant leave the engine around for too long as its quite thin and will run off.

Cleaning the block face up a 1-5 thou max will make next to no difference and only needs to be done if the face is corroded, pitted or uneven, its just for gasket sealing performance mostly. It wont affect piston/valve clearance by any large amount, because if you have 1-5 thou clearance issues...

Holy crap! lol You dont want the sender pointing down out of the bottom of the sump thats all. And with it inline on the cooler lines you'll be measuring the temp of oil either before the cooler or after, depending what you want to know. Having it in the block makes no diff as we dont care...

You wont want to run the temp sender in the clio sump, it'll get knocked off in no time. Like i said, a remote line from the original position of the pressure warning switch for the pressure gauge, and the temp should be inline on the oil lines.

Dont bother, your clutching at straws.

why do you want 120mm? big for the sake of big?

And if there is going to be an engine bay fire.....the heat wrap WILL be the cause. Its pointless.

yup

Precisely.......he asked for the gap on a...tada! 172

When not in use the compressor clutch is freewheeling, when it is in use and you boot it, the ecu releases compressor drive anyway. To convert your looking at spending near £400. Thats a LOT of aux belt changes, and a single cambelt change keeps the car good for 140k from new...

How can you look at info if its constantly moving on the wheel?

For the cost of it, there is zero benefit. You can remove all the gubbins and just replace the compressor with an idler, otherwise its a whole lotta work for nothing.