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**967kg

maybe i'm simplifying what I've done. But the bonnet and tailgate are already FG, The only interior items are the door handles, drivers 4kg bucket seat and seatbelt. I didn't weigh it before but the weights down to 697kg. Only other changes were a full service and cone intake filter.

It'll never happen, I face my enemies head on. well I've increased my MPG from 38.6 to 59.4 by just stripping the interior. The doors weigh more than the seats. I'm not into guesstimating but i've got my fingers crossed for 65MPG+

If I get an answer to the question I had a tracked clio with the pillars reinforced with copper pipe. Sorted that problem. Besides I'm not really planning to do 90 in a 1.2 on the road. They open, they close, they're not supporting the structure of the car. Not an MOT fail, but i'd prefer to...

I’ve been stripping out my daily (1.2 mk2) and trying to get the mpg up for a while now. I’ve been considering grp doors, bonnet and tailgate but I’m a bit concerned about the mot verdict. The mot test manual has no reference to fibreglass, or any specific materials but I can almist here the...

What you want to do is unzip the upholstery and push it all as far out of the way as possible. Then weld an extension bar onto the rear bolt and really weld the f&ck out of it. Like kill it with flux kind of weld. Once the new bonded extension is cold, SLOWLY! Turn the bolt back and forth while...

Two small pieces go into the dash from the vin plate. It can be pulled out with force and pushed in with force

Not the famous converted LY. But check the drivers footwell for odd parts just to be safe

Weld. It is literallly the easiest and quickest method. A few sheets of tin foil will stop any splatter, if you care about your alloys hat much. It takes seconds and you don't look like a window licker hammering and drilling at something for hours just to have to rethread the hub.

You'll want to use high temp paint or hammerite so I'd say at least 9 hours drying for good measure. The real challenge is getting the dust off.

As above, and you need to check the line connections are all dry and secure. But chances are a little bubble has got in through the bleed nipple

Did you compress the calliper piston back in before you fitted the new pads?

You'll be lucky if your rac tech has one in his van. How common do you think those tools are? There's a clue in the price. £170 for a tool that only has one real use compared to a half decent arc welder? Take it to a garage and they'll be using a welder because they know a tool that does many...

So "properly" is buying a 170£ tool that you only use 4 times on one day instead of paying a semi competent tradesman to do a minute of welding for a tenner? Do you work for the government?

Get someone who knows how to weld then.

Ignore hammer. Weld an old bolt onto the centre of the locking nut and undo. Any half honest tech would do this for beer money

That method won't work. Most people get it back to front. If you can get all the other gears in then it probably means the faults with the gear knobs lift function or the linkage fixing isn't in the right position.

The gasket was a different shape so I needed a new one fabricated. But the fixings were perfect fits

Strange. My k4m fits a 172 mani. Anyway if there is a fitment problem with yours you'd be better off to replace the cat/decat.

K4m manifold is attached by spring bolts to the cat. But if someone's put a flexi pipe in they may have changed this. But the 172 mani should fit the k4m. 182 mani is a bit more annoying, bigger and (I'm told) provides less power

It's easier and cheaper to fit a new bonnet. Safer too. Not sure if bonnet catches on metal bonnet would pass an MOT. You have to understand these catches are designed for very light bonnets (ie carbon, fibreglass)

Just realised this was the most stupid question I asked all year. Ignore me. I'm a dumbass.

Also, is it looking a bit optimistic to say that stopping the blow and changing the lambda would bring those emissions down enough? The numbers seem higher than any other test I've done

So my 1.6 failed it's MOT on emissions today. They said it was blowing, the engine was misfiring and the lambda (rear) sensor needs replacing. It has a power flow exhaust. I can deal with the hole easily but I want to know if any parts can be transferred from a 1.2 8v d7f engine. My first...

Unless you have a fibre glass bonnet, there's really no point. Bonnet catches are only designed to keep the fibreglass bonnet from bending from the wind force. Fitting these to a metal bonnet is like bolting a padlock to the doors next to the key lock. Looks pointless.

It's ambitious. Not impossible. But it'll be a hell of a lot easier renting gargage space at the spray shop and doing the prep yourself

If you have a spray booth, engine crane, restoration trolley and 40 square foot dry storage space. Then go for it. Otherwise it's going to be a ball ache that won't be worth it in the end. If I were you I'd do as much prep before you strip it down. (Example, sand down and build primer on...

Spray cans will always be different to real paint. Give the whole area a good polish and cut&buff and it will look better.

Colour code EVERYTHING! Ph2 side strips as well.

Paint it the same as the intake and it looks tidy as. Keeps the bay looming clean. You'd save more weight just taking out a single seat belt than this.