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runs a separate ecu.

Wish I charged as much as some places get away with.

what about bleeding the drivers side?

dangerous dave has got it nailed however take the disc off and then clean the hub up and remount it. The disc will be fine, it won't have worn funny unless the 2k miles have been slowing from 200mph with a 10 ton trailer. Also run out tool, a pencil is good enough for the common man who...

depends on the bulb, if its that ridiculous 3rd brake light with a 21 w sidelight style base

undo lower damper bolt jack the car up slightly so the spring will pull out. I leave the wheel on and do it on the ground unless its on the ramp for other work.

cambelt kit and water pump I got for a 1.2 16V I done about 4 months back was just under 90 quid too much do the jobs yourself its extremely easy

where does it cost 120 for a 1.2 16V cambelt kit? Water pump is about 17 quid I can knock em out in about 45 mins. Although I have to say where I was working I used to do jobs then get pulle doff them to and I quote 'f**k about' as I was working to fast and the customers kicked up a...

unplug the connector issue solved

wtf? In scotland you could never charge like that. Trade price on a bulb is around 20p, track rod ends from Dingbro full trade are just over a tenner each full test price is 53 quid and nowhere charges that and certainly I hope no one is stupid enough to pay full test fee!

very common when I was testing 1 out of every 2 clio 2's that came in had at least 1 snapped rear spring. Savign grace is how easy it is to change, you don't even need to take the wheel off, less than 2 minutes especially with an air gun

check the subframe bolts and the wishbones better

on a Y plate it'll most likely be 238's

dead easy, pop cap off the centre of the disc, undo the 30mm hub nut and remove the nut and depending on version of nut the washer may be built in or a seperate washer. Undo the 2 17mm bolts on the caliper carrier, lift the carrier complete with pads off the disc (take handbrake off btw)...

kin hell man I need to charge more.

fecks sake, I'm undercharging by hundreds of pounds it seems!

pick the clio if you want to have fun driving

not really needed tbh. When you fit it just tyake it a longish motorway run that'll clear them out a bit.

ideally yes it shoudl be done, but tbh its a car thats ten a penny, and if its ok then I'd leave it. Although if getting the pump done and your planning on keeping it get the tensioner as well. its an extra 30 or so quid on these engines. Whos doing the work?

on a mk1 1.2/1.4 with the energy lump? i'd check the tensioner myself first. I have seen then do 200k without issue, on the other hand some have let go at 5k.

you sure its brakes and not something drivebelt related?

undo the bolts as you say. New bolts may not be needed, some seem to stay in good condition others rust terribly. Clean the lambdas with a blowtorch, watch as they will flake off the hard carbon on the shroud. yes paste the back half. Your not meant to paste the front as the paste can go...

how engines are run in massively affects their performance AND reliability. Sadly 90% are not run in properly.

does the fact your a ***** not put you off enough?

if its the alternator pulley then new alternator. thsi is a problem on the new alt's the old metal ones were fine. Most meganes have the sides cracked off the pulley but last for ages. i'd moan at renault though

check the box oil level and also I'd pop the end case off to check the bolt and nut on the shafts aren't loose.

clean the tb and soak the oil out of the manifold.

if you want a bit more travel on then cut the bumpstops slightly. 10 mm off it for example

someone has overfilled it

the tb is mounted in the top of the manifold on the 1.2's its always covered in oil, bad design, clean it this always helps I find on them