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RB 182
Looks just like our engine but with itb's 
RB 182
Tbh, I had the parts powder coated after chatting to a few people. Parts are fine as the paint will cure in the oven. VHT is great but the engine temp will never come close to powdercoating melting. It's also free for me to do
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
I've modified my interior loom mate. Anything that wasn't needed was removed, and I was successful! Not bad considering I had no wiring diagrams! Lol
Looking good that mate.
So it is possible to fit the upgraded radiators using standard lower rad mounts and cup alternator setup but it's very close, trimming of the lower alt mount would increase room. My question is what options do I have for a different lower mount, volvo 440 (of some description) lower mount work's but unsure if it will work with my cup top mount and they are like rocking horse s**t. I know it has been covered before as I have seen threads but cant find them searching. Cheers
This picture doesn't show room, there's 15mm without trimming.
This picture doesn't show room, there's 15mm without trimming.
I will grab a photo of the volvo mounts i'm going to use, it will solve your issues. I guess your rad is at an angle and nearly against the crossmember?
What dog bone mount are you using? I would be worried about the engine movement when you are cutting it that fine with space
PS The volvo system just uses the volvo top bracket too!
What dog bone mount are you using? I would be worried about the engine movement when you are cutting it that fine with space
PS The volvo system just uses the volvo top bracket too!
Cheers James, the rad had a balls hair between the crossmember but I haven't fitted the dog bone mount yet so may increase. I have a powerflex twisted type but after fitting the engine last night and not having much experience with the Clio mechanicals, the dog bone is the most crucial mount on the car, the engine easily rocks with the other 3 fitted, will definitely be making a semi solid dog bone and potentially a 5th mount when I get it running and do some tests.
Yes the dog bone is the most important one for controlling engine movement which is why I wondered which one you were using. I wouldn't risk running it with those tighter tolerances personally not a cheap part to replace if it eats a hole in the rad
Oh I know mate I may even make a small sacrificial plate to mount at the rear of the rad which will flow air incase a rad or engine mount goes while on track, not wanting to carry to much spares with me. Everything will get fettled to get best clearance around the front. Between the alternator& mount/itb's/rad/fans/oil cooler/pipe work its really tight as im sure you know. I'm considering having an angled plate made to lower the height of the ITB's
Where are you thinking of fitting the 5th mount?
With the new mounts on my car, I've tried it just on 3, both upper ones and the front lower one and it hardly moves atall, tested with a 6ft long bar hooked onto the front of the engine! Was worried I was going to pull the car off the axle stands.
So it might be worth looking at making a tougher mount for the front of the gearbox, take some of the strain off the dogbone one.
With the new mounts on my car, I've tried it just on 3, both upper ones and the front lower one and it hardly moves atall, tested with a 6ft long bar hooked onto the front of the engine! Was worried I was going to pull the car off the axle stands.
So it might be worth looking at making a tougher mount for the front of the gearbox, take some of the strain off the dogbone one.
The volvo brackets would solve the problem 100% but they do look fairly flimsy! I will try and get photo's of mine if it will help They are a few KG's lighter too than the cup setup
They are a few KG's lighter too than the cup setup
182cup & 172 racecar
Our 5th mount is at the front o/s, there are some spare holes in the block down below the oil filter area.
Made an angled bracket and a bit of rollcage tube, then got one of those rubber things with a thread each side, drilled the subframe, job done.
You lot up there are good welders, so you should make a better job than I did lol. But it works.
Made an angled bracket and a bit of rollcage tube, then got one of those rubber things with a thread each side, drilled the subframe, job done.
You lot up there are good welders, so you should make a better job than I did lol. But it works.
As Tony said Kenny, there's scope to make one down the front o/s much like the cup racers. I could guarantee that your dog bone is doing all the work on your car, the lower box mount does nothing but hold some weight, has no affect on torsional. The best place to make another mount for me but is a bit more tricky is similar design to the dog bone but using the driveshaft bearing holes at the rear as I previously said to you, I will just do similar to tony as I have metal lying around already.
Yeah if you could James, cup racers use similar idea to Volvo but I can guess what r-sport want for them and they are more than likely borrowed from another model so nothing special. Weight saving was my thinking as well, there's no need for that bracket with no PAS pump.
Yeah if you could James, cup racers use similar idea to Volvo but I can guess what r-sport want for them and they are more than likely borrowed from another model so nothing special. Weight saving was my thinking as well, there's no need for that bracket with no PAS pump.
I'm sure I dont need to tell you that if you stiffen up one of the mounting points it will take proprtionally more load/strain.
As standard the front lower gearbox mount is very soft and hence does close to feck all to help oppose torsional loads.
As i mentioned, with the dogbone removed on my car you can only just get some movement in the engine/box with 3 mounts fitted, and thats with the aid of a large lever, the fact the mount is as at the front simply means it's in compression as apposed to tension, it's still prefectly able to deal with the torsional loads.
As standard the front lower gearbox mount is very soft and hence does close to feck all to help oppose torsional loads.
As i mentioned, with the dogbone removed on my car you can only just get some movement in the engine/box with 3 mounts fitted, and thats with the aid of a large lever, the fact the mount is as at the front simply means it's in compression as apposed to tension, it's still prefectly able to deal with the torsional loads.
Yeah the stiffer it is depending where its mounted and type will then take more load away from the rest. I understood it as you tested with dogbone in place. I know with mine disconnected you could blow the engine and move it that's why I will make a 5th mount in time as that little twisted piece of aluminium will take a lot of punishment.
Your lower gearbox is a better design, I think the standard one is there to cushion tramping.
Your lower gearbox is a better design, I think the standard one is there to cushion tramping.
Got started on the dreaded wiring The Frenchies definitely living up to what there known for, shocking stuff.
Started with this
During, definite friday afternoon job.
Left with basics, kept the lighting circuit for if/when I need lights.
Placed my engine loom in just to keep myself right, easily manage to mount the ecu internally, everything more than long enough.
Anyone know what this plug is for?
What sensor is this, oil related but unsure.
Realised I hadn't fitted the starter heatshield, another top design there Renault, its a manifold off job.
Started with this
During, definite friday afternoon job.
Left with basics, kept the lighting circuit for if/when I need lights.
Placed my engine loom in just to keep myself right, easily manage to mount the ecu internally, everything more than long enough.
Anyone know what this plug is for?
What sensor is this, oil related but unsure.
Realised I hadn't fitted the starter heatshield, another top design there Renault, its a manifold off job.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Green one is the oil pressure warning light switch mate. Possibly the plug is for that switch????
When I cut back my loom I just traced back the circuits that were no longer needed as well. Beware with the behind the dash stuff though as there's a fair few wires that are can related. I have indeed kept the uch as well. I'll bin it all off if/when the ecu goes up the swanny. I can get the raychem wiring to replace it all with as well so it's just a waiting game now. Lol
When I cut back my loom I just traced back the circuits that were no longer needed as well. Beware with the behind the dash stuff though as there's a fair few wires that are can related. I have indeed kept the uch as well. I'll bin it all off if/when the ecu goes up the swanny. I can get the raychem wiring to replace it all with as well so it's just a waiting game now. Lol
Cheers, didn't think they would have an oil pressure warning. Tried that plug but there both male, ill chop it out after I know its not needed to run.
Yeah im going canny with the interior part, just going to chop out the basics, safety stuff mostly. Does yours still run the speedo, revs and temprature, I kept the loom for tdc, speedo drive and coolant sensors on the engine loom as I want to keep these untill I go after market dash.
Yeah im going canny with the interior part, just going to chop out the basics, safety stuff mostly. Does yours still run the speedo, revs and temprature, I kept the loom for tdc, speedo drive and coolant sensors on the engine loom as I want to keep these untill I go after market dash.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Yes mate I run the standard dash pack. I'll be using a gen90 ecu as well so it will be staying as well. If the uch goes up s**t creek I'll have no option but to run a dash2 or something along those lines.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
No mate not running body's. The engine looms not been cut down yet mate, it's only the interior loom I've re-worked. The engine loom is on the cards for the future though. Sorry for any confusion regarding that mate.
Btw, how long did it take seiz to get back in touch with you when you ordered your brake brackets??
PM'd him on and off for a week asking about his various parts in French and English with google translate then was about a week to send out the bits iirc, I was away at the time.
Aye send it up, prices ain't cheap though
This is looking awesome - I need to do that to my engine loom as well but haven't plucked up the courage yet
I really should crack on - I've got a full spare loom in the garage so not much can really go wrong lol
I really should crack on - I've got a full spare loom in the garage so not much can really go wrong lol
Saying that Phil, I haven't started mine yet lol, I went pretty wild with mine and there's still more to come out,y thinking is only using standard for, starting,charging,speedo,temperature, revs, reverse, cam shifter and fan wiring circuits (left the lighting circuit in untill I get a chance to redo) ill soon see if the standard ecu agrees or throws the toys out the pram otherwise it will re-wire.
Yeah I will be, I was going to pm you about it. You had to run wires over to the cam switch so I thought I'd leave it in place and tap into standard loom down at g/box. That was my understanding of what you done right?
Got bored of wiring so made a start on plumbing in engine and sorting out drive.
Made up fuel line. Modified hose clamps for rail and fitted fuel sampler.
Mocked up shafts to get measurements to lengthen, tempted to barn yard engineer them to get the car out for a test.
Fitted gear change, modified linkage to bring back to hand. 1st gear.
2nd gear. Much better now, not going to modify tunnel now :clap:
Made up fuel line. Modified hose clamps for rail and fitted fuel sampler.
Mocked up shafts to get measurements to lengthen, tempted to barn yard engineer them to get the car out for a test.
Fitted gear change, modified linkage to bring back to hand. 1st gear.
2nd gear. Much better now, not going to modify tunnel now :clap:
Looking good, I like what you did with the gear leaver.
TrackCar & F30 330d
You chopped a inch or two off the gear linkage under the gearbox! Goot little trick that! We did that to Marks race car and it makes the world of difference!
Fingers crossed with your standard renault loom. I messed around with my renault loom and ended just throwing it all away and building one myself. At lease when you build it yourself you know whats what!
Fingers crossed yours starts!
You car is looking great though, engine looks pretty similar to mine! Keep up the good work
Fingers crossed with your standard renault loom. I messed around with my renault loom and ended just throwing it all away and building one myself. At lease when you build it yourself you know whats what!
Fingers crossed yours starts!
You car is looking great though, engine looks pretty similar to mine! Keep up the good work
Cheers, I cant take credit though, Yanoo's stuff is top.
You chopped a inch or two off the gear linkage under the gearbox! Goot little trick that! We did that to Marks race car and it makes the world of difference!
Fingers crossed with your standard renault loom. I messed around with my renault loom and ended just throwing it all away and building one myself. At lease when you build it yourself you know whats what!
Fingers crossed yours starts!
You car is looking great though, engine looks pretty similar to mine! Keep up the good work
Yeah hopefully my chopping hasn't created much problem, Its not going to have anything to do with the running of the engine now. My Omex ecu and loom are capable of running the engine standalone, I just want to keep some readings on the dash untill I upgrade.
Yeah I just went crazy with the VHT paint
