Clio 182 Turbo

[Yarp]

The 182 now has tax, insurance and MOT. Now I don’t need to keep an eye out for police sharing my private test track, I had a chance to get some miles in it today and properly enjoy it. I forgot how fun this car was and the extra power from the turbo gives it that bit of edge it was missing. I got caught in a monsoon when I was out and was really surprised that the R888s are fantastic in the wet. I’d thoroughly expected to end he new bushes, springs, cup shocks and brembo conversion have done wonders for the handling. It feels great on the road and stops really well. Ran it for about 2 hours with no issues at all and never missed a beat. My fuel gauge is stuck on 1/4 tank which will need sorted at some point. Biggest surprise of the day was the trip computer claiming I averaged 41mpg 🤷‍♂. It t also gets a lot more attention than it used to but suppose it’s to be expected now there aren’t many about round this way. Anyway, pic spam out some where that isn’t my drive 😊

 

[Fishfire]

Lookscreally good and glad to see it's gone really well!

A quick Q if I may....did you put any one way valves anywhere? I've read quite a bit on various conversations and seen one way valves mentioned for the carbon canister and another for the break servo?

Getting there with my own conversion. Just missing the intercooler set up and ecu shizzle from Chris at EFI, and a few minor bits and bobs 😀

 

[Yarp]

Lookscreally good and glad to see it's gone really well!

A quick Q if I may....did you put any one way valves anywhere? I've read quite a bit on various conversations and seen one way valves mentioned for the carbon canister and another for the break servo?

Getting there with my own conversion. Just missing the intercooler set up and ecu shizzle from Chris at EFI, and a few minor bits and bobs 😀

Cheers!

No, didn’t bother with any one way valves. The break servo def doesn’t need one. Can’t comment for the carbon canister because I binned it off. I recycled the port for the boost gauge and took the 1kg saving 😎. I’ve got no idea what the point of it is, same as the acoustic valve.

The intercooler setup you could probably DIY with some imagination to be honest

 

[Radugns]

Brake booster does have integrated one way valve.

 

[Fishfire]

Mmm I'm confused about the carbon canister. That's the pipe that comes from the rocker cover top right? That shouldn't be pressurised 🤔

 

[Radugns]

Mmm I'm confused about the carbon canister. That's the pipe that comes from the rocker cover top right? That shouldn't be pressurised 🤔

For that one if you will keep it, you need a one way valve for sure.

 

[Fishfire]

For that one if you will keep it, you need a one way valve for sure.

I was looking at doing a canister delete and just blocking the pipe from the rocker plenum tbh

 

[Yarp]

I was looking at doing a canister delete and just blocking the pipe from the rocker plenum tbh

I ended up needing a coupe of spare pipes so deleting worked well. Just unbolted it, unplugged it and did the bmw special of a golf tee and jubilee clip to the pipe that goes back towards the fuel tank

 

[Yarp]

I got lots more miles in this weekend. It’s so much fun! Having covered just 12 miles since March 2017 I feel like I’ve done about 500 this week. It’s just such a shame that we’ll never get cars like this again.

I’ve found a couple of small issues. I caught the exhaust on a speed bump and that’s now blowing. It was a bit of a bodge to get it through the MOT so it’s booked in to get that properly welded up later in the week. I also had a massive smell of fuel in the car. Turns out the eBay special ring that holds the sender in the tank isn’t holding the sender in place properly so I’m flinging petrol everywhere when I’m going round corners. New genuine ring is on the way so that’ll be sorted soon too. On the upside the fuel gauge now works again. I’ve also had a fault code thrown for the 2nd o2 sensor. It’s still sometimes a bit rough at idle from cold so I’ll get that swapped out and that should sort it. Its still claiming 38mpg on the trip computer too. There’s just no way that’s possible 😂.

I’d spotted a few people using some wipe on headlight restorer from eurocarpars so thought I’d give it a go. They are by no means perfect but the improvement is pretty impressive. Unless you’re really up close they look fine. As usual for BG It came up lovely after a quick wash

I’ve got it booked in for a full paint correction next month. The bodywork is good but 4 years sitting in a garage getting covered in s**t hasn’t done wonders for the paintwork. There’s the odd dent here and there that’ll get popped out so not worried about that. The front bumper is pretty badly stone chipped and the bonnet has a tiny bit of scabbing in the corner so I’ll see how it turns out and then I can decide how much of it needs painted over the winter.

 

[t90_lle]

Read this thread through out the day! Good work on building it yourself bud!

 

[Yarp]

I picked up a new ring for the fuel sender yesterday. This one is genuine Renault and the t**t won’t go on either. Am I really that simple or is there more than one thread type and I’ve got the wrong one twice?

 

[Radugns]

If you thread it more it could twist the gasket? Add some ptfe lube on o oring.maybe that help

 

[Adey.]

I picked up a new ring for the fuel sender yesterday. This one is genuine Renault and the t**t won’t go on either. Am I really that simple or is there more than one thread type and I’ve got the wrong one twice?

I always have a problem with these, mine is leaking if I brim the tank on the Twingo. About once in the last 4 times I've done it has it properly sealed. Proper t**t of a job, hopefully someone pipes up here on the "correct" way to align and fit them.

 

[Yarp]

If you thread it more it could twist the gasket? Add some ptfe lube on o oring.maybe that help

I’ve lubed it up and everything. Just keeps cross threading 😡. The seal sits underneath so it’s not interfering with it

I always have a problem with these, mine is leaking if I brim the tank on the Twingo. About once in the last 4 times I've done it has it properly sealed. Proper t**t of a job, hopefully someone pipes up here on the "correct" way to align and fit them.

That makes me feel better that it’s not just me! Mine is leaking pretty badly from 1/2 a tank or so but the fuel is collecting and sitting on the rim that the sender goes into so it stinks in the car.

It couldn’t be the tank losing its shape or something stupid like that could it? There was only about £5 of petrol in it when I took the sender out so doubt that would be enough weight to deform the tank?

The only other option I can see is to go nuclear and drop the tank and kick the s**t out of it until it aligns and fits but that’s a massive ball ache for such a little job 🤦‍♂️

 

[Adey.]

there is a tool to do it with but I'm convinced there's a way to line it up before starting to wind it on, just not found it yet. I tend to lube it up a little, then place the ring on whilst holding the sender down. Turn it the wrong way until it drops back onto the thread and then do it up.

 

[Adey.]

I could be assembling it wrong though. Does it go black locking ring > o ring > sender or locking ring > sender > o ring ?

 

[Yarp]

I could be assembling it wrong though. Does it go black locking ring > o ring > sender or locking ring > sender > o ring ?

Yeah I’ve seen the tool but surely it should still finger tighten enough. Mine is just having none of threading on at all. Even going backward and letting it drop in it’ll only bite on one side

When I took mine off it was o ring then sender then locking ring so been attempting that to refit. I’m not sure if that’s the way it should be but I’m assuming the pump and sender have never been out before now. I tried it the other way round and it made no difference. The ring won’t even finger tighten onto the tank with the sender out completely.

It’s doing my head in 😂

 

[Adey.]

just checked mine, o ring under the sender to the tank. it looks like it goes on to start with by hand then goes tight for me. iv tapped it around will see if it still leaks on the next fill up

 

[Yarp]

just checked mine, o ring under the sender to the tank. it looks like it goes on to start with by hand then goes tight for me. iv tapped it around will see if it still leaks on the next fill up

hopefully that sorts it for you 👍

I had another go at mine this afternoon. It’s got no intention of grabbing the threads straight. I tried a jack under the tank to see if it has sagged or anything but made no difference. I then decided to try boiling the ring to see if heating it up would make things easier which is did slightly.

It’s now sat like this. I’ve wedged a couple of plastic shims under it to see if that’ll seal it. The smell of fuel is gone so that’s got to be a good sign. I’ve ordered one of the tools for it so I’ll force it a bit tighter to see what happens. If all else fails I’ll have to drop the tank. I can’t have it leaking fuel

 

[Fishfire]

Looks good Steve!

Can I ask what size turbo you're using?

I've got a Churbo which is a gt2871 replica which I have concerns may be a bit laggy. Spoke to Chris at EFI who confirms it's usable, but don't expect boost much before 4000rpm.

I know you got a churbo too, so I'd be interested to hear your thought's

🙃

 

[Yarp]

Looks good Steve!

Can I ask what size turbo you're using?

I've got a Churbo which is a gt2871 replica which I have concerns may be a bit laggy. Spoke to Chris at EFI who confirms it's usable, but don't expect boost much before 4000rpm.

I know you got a churbo too, so I'd be interested to hear your thought's

🙃View attachment 1538320

Thanks! That’s so pretty 😍

Mine is a gt2860 replica special from Czech Republic. Chris said similar to be but the lag isn’t bad to be honest. I’m seeing boost at about 2.5k which is more than acceptable. In an ideal world I’d like it a bit sooner but they are revvy engines so it’s not a problem. I’ve been used to having to mash the limiter in every gear to make it move so it’s not bothered about being up the revs.

I considered the gt25 size but I’ve used them in the past and found they’ve either started to tail off or the boost has dropped at higher rpms. This one is holding 8psi to the redline with no fluctuation at all. I’d sooner lose a bit of low rev boost for that given it spends no time at all under 2.5k rpm.

The bigger issue now is the gearbox. It’s well suited to it being NA but the ratios are far too close now it’s turbo and has plenty of power. 5th in particular is stupid. The next job has got to be looking at a 6 speed or longer ratio box but notching the chassis is putting me off that one a bit

 

[Adey.]

bolt in a diesel box, plenty of longer ratios to choose from or if 5th is the only gear you have an issue with you can swap just that with the gearbox in place easy enough

 

[leeds2592]

Looks good Steve!

Can I ask what size turbo you're using?

I've got a Churbo which is a gt2871 replica which I have concerns may be a bit laggy. Spoke to Chris at EFI who confirms it's usable, but don't expect boost much before 4000rpm.

I know you got a churbo too, so I'd be interested to hear your thought's

🙃View attachment 1538320

Where'd you buy your chinky turbo from? Most just say 2860 2871 in the title anyway so can't be too much variation in them surely?

 

[Fishfire]

Where'd you buy your chinky turbo from? Most just say 2860 2871 in the title anyway so can't be too much variation in them surely?

I got it from Maxspeedingrods after watching an independent review on them (worth a watch)
It's got a claimed exducer size of 71mm over the 60mm on the gt2860, which could make it a bit more laggy, but I guess I'll find out once it's all bolted in and running and tbh, I've not measured it. It's defo a chunky monkey though lol!
Once a the niggles are ironed out I'll be taking it up to EFI to have the map tweaked, as the map they provide is for a GT25 type turbo, so air flow will be different, but as long as it doesn't exceed 8psi anywhere it should be fine to run around until I can get it up to them.

 

[Fishfire]

Thanks! That’s so pretty 😍

Mine is a gt2860 replica special from Czech Republic. Chris said similar to be but the lag isn’t bad to be honest. I’m seeing boost at about 2.5k which is more than acceptable. In an ideal world I’d like it a bit sooner but they are revvy engines so it’s not a problem. I’ve been used to having to mash the limiter in every gear to make it move so it’s not bothered about being up the revs.

I considered the gt25 size but I’ve used them in the past and found they’ve either started to tail off or the boost has dropped at higher rpms. This one is holding 8psi to the redline with no fluctuation at all. I’d sooner lose a bit of low rev boost for that given it spends no time at all under 2.5k rpm.

The bigger issue now is the gearbox. It’s well suited to it being NA but the ratios are far too close now it’s turbo and has plenty of power. 5th in particular is stupid. The next job has got to be looking at a 6 speed or longer ratio box but notching the chassis is putting me off that one a bit

Ah thanks Steve, that's good to hear that the lag isn't too awful, although mine is a bit of a larger turbo so I'd guess boost may come in a little later than yours, but we will see!
Agreed on tbe 25s running out of puff, though if I'd been able to lay my hands on one for reasonable money it woukd have been my preferred route.
I did also port the wastegate on mine as it was tiny and likely to induce boost creep and make the boost come in even later up the rev range. A dremel and 15 mins of grinding sorted that bad boy out lol. (See before and after pics)

I'm also fitting an adjustable wastegate with a 5psi spring in conjunction with a manual boost controller to further reduce any wastegate creep.

 

[Krarl]

hopefully that sorts it for you 👍

I had another go at mine this afternoon. It’s got no intention of grabbing the threads straight. I tried a jack under the tank to see if it has sagged or anything but made no difference. I then decided to try boiling the ring to see if heating it up would make things easier which is did slightly.

It’s now sat like this. I’ve wedged a couple of plastic shims under it to see if that’ll seal it. The smell of fuel is gone so that’s got to be a good sign. I’ve ordered one of the tools for it so I’ll force it a bit tighter to see what happens. If all else fails I’ll have to drop the tank. I can’t have it leaking fuel

View attachment 1538134

Hammer and a big flathead screwdriver to knock it tight

 

[leeds2592]

I got it from Maxspeedingrods after watching an independent review on them (worth a watch)
It's got a claimed exducer size of 71mm over the 60mm on the gt2860, which could make it a bit more laggy, but I guess I'll find out once it's all bolted in and running and tbh, I've not measured it. It's defo a chunky monkey though lol!
Once a the niggles are ironed out I'll be taking it up to EFI to have the map tweaked, as the map they provide is for a GT25 type turbo, so air flow will be different, but as long as it doesn't exceed 8psi anywhere it should be fine to run around until I can get it up to them.

Ah, that's the same turbo I bought haha. When you aiming to get it mapped? Let me know how you get on, I've still got a few bits to get for mine so aiming end of this year/beginning of next.

Sorry for high jacking your thread Stevo.

 

[Yarp]

bolt in a diesel box, plenty of longer ratios to choose from or if 5th is the only gear you have an issue with you can swap just that with the gearbox in place easy enough

hmm that’s a possibility. You got a code for one so I can have a look and see what the ratios are. It just seems like all I do is change gear 😂. The power band coming out a corner in 2nd is perfect for NA but now it’s turbo I’m too high up the revs for 2nd and need to change gear pretty much straight away but then slightly too low to make the most of 3rd. It’s just not quite right

Ah thanks Steve, that's good to hear that the lag isn't too awful, although mine is a bit of a larger turbo so I'd guess boost may come in a little later than yours, but we will see!
Agreed on tbe 25s running out of puff, though if I'd been able to lay my hands on one for reasonable money it woukd have been my preferred route.
I did also port the wastegate on mine as it was tiny and likely to induce boost creep and make the boost come in even later up the rev range. A dremel and 15 mins of grinding sorted that bad boy out lol. (See before and after pics)
View attachment 1538331

View attachment 1538332
I'm also fitting an adjustable wastegate with a 5psi spring in conjunction with a manual boost controller to further reduce any wastegate creep.

That looks fantastic. Mine has been ok but I wish I’d done it when it was off. Good shout with the actuator too. I had loads of issues with mine boosting too high. Far better going too low and using a boost controller to bring it up than have my first test drive and

Ah, that's the same turbo I bought haha. When you aiming to get it mapped? Let me know how you get on, I've still got a few bits to get for mine so aiming end of this year/beginning of next.

Sorry for high jacking your thread Stevo.

Now problem at all. The more turbo’d clios on the road the better!

It’s turned out a bit quicker than I was expecting too to be honest. I’ve got a sign on my private test track that bears no resemblance to the A183 that I use as my speed benchmark. The 335i I had used to go past it at about 90-95 when it had its 380bhp hat on. I sailed past it at bang on a ton in the 182 tonight. Bearing in mind the same 335i was then only 5mph faster at 420bhp I’m very impressed. Goes to show how much difference zero weight makes 💨

 

[dann2707]

I had the changing gear issue with my 6 speed box. I very rarely had two hands on the wheel as one was always hovering on the gearstick. That probably ruined the experience a bit for me too!

 

[Yarp]

I had the changing gear issue with my 6 speed box. I very rarely had two hands on the wheel as one was always hovering on the gearstick. That probably ruined the experience a bit for me too!

Right so the 6 speed probably won’t help then. The jC5-128 dci box looks about right through. My dodgy sums make it about bang on. 4k in 2nd is about 40mph so ideal for pulling out of corners and and I’ll do over 70 on 2nd so will drop a gear change to 60. I think that could be the job for over the winter.

Anyway, took it to work for a laugh today. Certainly makes the commute a bit more lively 😂

 

[Yarp]

I thought boost had gone bad already earlier this week. I was getting what can only be described as enormous blue smoke clouds on overrun from high revs.

Quick investigation and the boost pipes are bone dry so not the turbo, no smoke under load and compression test was bang on across all 4 cylinders. I looked a bit deeper and the oil return had melted through and must have been squirting oil onto the downpipe at high rpms. I’ve remade the return using some ultra high temp steel braided hose and the problem is gone and hopefully stays gone!

 

[Fishfire]

I thought boost had gone bad already earlier this week. I was getting what can only be described as enormous blue smoke clouds on overrun from high revs.

Quick investigation and the boost pipes are bone dry so not the turbo, no smoke under load and compression test was bang on across all 4 cylinders. I looked a bit deeper and the oil return had melted through and must have been squirting oil onto the downpipe at high rpms. I’ve remade the return using some ultra high temp steel braided hose and the problem is gone and hopefully stays gone!

I've used Engine Dynamics oil return and though the engine isn't in yet......it does look like it may run pretty close to the down pipe!

I'm tempted to wrap the pipe to give some protection

 

[incy-spider]

I use the flexible pipe from these guys, I modified the end with an insert instead of the AN fitting. It’s much better than a silicon pipe!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Yarp]

I've used Engine Dynamics oil return and though the engine isn't in yet......it does look like it may run pretty close to the down pipe!

I'm tempted to wrap the pipe to give some protection

yeah it’s probably not a bad idea. The original silicone version was maybe 5-10mm from the downpipe at best. The new one I’ve put a 45 degree fitting on it that points towards the passenger side of the car then bends back towards the engine from there. It’s still very close but hopefully should be a bit less melty.

View attachment 1541618
I use the flexible pipe from these guys, I modified the end with an insert instead of the AN fitting. It’s much better than a silicon pipe!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That could be a good shout if I have bother again. It’s a ptfe steel lined hose I’ve used which has temp rating of up to 350 degrees internally and the outside “should” shield and withstand 800 which is way above and beyond what it’ll ever have to deal with. Time will tell though!

Fittings wise I’ve used an10 to jic coming off the hose, then adapters from jic to 1/2” bsp to fit the turbo outlet and the thread into the sump

 

[Fishfire]

So, I've just ordered a hose heat protection wrap around blanket thing. That should fix it

 

[Yarp]

My oil return continues to piss me off! Since upgrading from silicone to braided it’s dislodged the pipe to the sump and it’s now leaking oil from there instead. Lesson learned, do it the way everyone else does and tap the block.

So sump came off again for the 152683636th time. Record time, 15 minutes to remove 👍. Shame to throw it out cos it was nice and new and pretty. Hey ho.

I still had the old one sat in the garage, even though it is a bit shitty. 2 cans of brake cleaner later it was gleaming (no pic)

The circle marks the spot for the return to go into

I was then ready to pop the hole in. I didn’t have a 3/8 hole cutter or tap but did have a 22mm one and a m22 x1.5 tap. Some quick man maths later and a m22 to 3/8 adapter is cheaper than a 3/8 hole cutter and tap. Very soon after said maths there was a 22mm hole in the block 👍. Adapter should arrive on Tuesday then I can stick it back together again

 

[Fishfire]

I've used wrap around heat shielding on my silicon pipe. Looks like it'll do the job.

Got loads left over if ya want some to use on your silicon pipe? Happy to put a length of it in the post to you 😀

 

[Yarp]

My m22 to 1/2” bsp fitment arrived today.

For whatever reason it’s got a restrictor in it

not any more…

And it links up nicely to the oil return. I need to shorten the hose by about 20mm to get it to fit with no stress on any of it

it’s all ready to go but the tap wrench I’ve got for the m22 x 1.5 is too big to spin in the space available and the extension bar I’ve got only does up to m14 🤦‍♂️. New extension is ordered so hopefully that arrives before the weekend and I can get it all back together 👍

 

[Yarp]

Did a whoopsie today… tapped the hole nicely for the return. Wasn’t paying much attention to anything else and hit the plastic thing at the front of the engine with the tap wrench and it smashed into about a billion bits. I assume it’s an oil level sensor of some sort? Nothing online seems to match. What is is and does anyone have a link for one?

 

[Fishfire]

Did a whoopsie today… tapped the hole nicely for the return. Wasn’t paying much attention to anything else and hit the plastic thing at the front of the engine with the tap wrench and it smashed into about a billion bits. I assume it’s an oil level sensor of some sort? Nothing online seems to match. What is is and does anyone have a link for one?
View attachment 1545144

Yep, looks like the oil level sender.

Renault part No.

7700421391​