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You'll need some sort of fire wall for reg compliance, I think.
What you going to race it in then Mark?
What you going to race it in then Mark?
Yes as Mark123 says it has got to have a fireproof bulkhead between it and the driver
pro-alloy and ATL both do tanks with internal collectors and pumps so all you`ll need is to cut a hole in the floor weld in a sunken steel box throw the tank assembly in there and bang a lid on it and you`ll be fine.. it`ll also reduce the cost of all the goodridge fittings needed
BMW Z4
Are you sure about that. At the moment it has a 25 litre tank under the car with filter and pump also under the car. In the car is a 50 litre tank that gravity feeds the tank under the car. The swirl pot is in the engine bay. The large tank has an ally cover over it but it is not air tight by any means.
just needs to be in a metal container iirc, thats certainly what the saxmax boys do..
I would need to look up the blue book again but I seem to recall that the fuel tank/system needs to be separated from the driver by means of a fluid tight bulkhead, doesn't need to be fireproof, just has to be able to stop petrol pouring all over you in the event of an accident which ruptures the tank. Not likely to happen but it's not something I'd be taking short cuts with, I can handle pain and broken bones but don't want to mess with fire.
BMW Z4
So I popped to the bodyshop to check on progress. Nearly finished...
I think I might get my pistons tommorow. The car will be at the shop another week and then it can come back for rebuild. Oh I got my spares package today. My garage is FULL of Audi parts LOL.Will be selling a load of them too. Got a new 1.8 engine, only done 17k.
I took the decision to refit the steel doors and tailgate. This will help me with the weight and also make the car a bit stiffer. The carbon doors are a bit flimsy and the tops peel back on the straight which is annoying. I might also fit the steel bonnet back on too.
I think I might get my pistons tommorow. The car will be at the shop another week and then it can come back for rebuild. Oh I got my spares package today. My garage is FULL of Audi parts LOL.Will be selling a load of them too. Got a new 1.8 engine, only done 17k.
I took the decision to refit the steel doors and tailgate. This will help me with the weight and also make the car a bit stiffer. The carbon doors are a bit flimsy and the tops peel back on the straight which is annoying. I might also fit the steel bonnet back on too.
182cup & 172 racecar
That looks better Mark.
BMW Z4
Yeh the vision is coming together. Got my Wossner pistons today so I can put the engine together tommorow.
BMW Z4
So I started rebuilding the engine today. The block had already been prepared and painted ready for install.
Shells fitted ready for crank
Engine rebuild paste liberally applied
Test fit of crank after a good clean of the journals
Bloody thrusts are the wrong ones Dohh. The ones that came out are 2.44mm and these are 2.00mm
Ill fit the pistons then as I cant do the crank now
Pistons nice and snug
Nice
Ill get new thrusts tommorow so I can finish it off. I cleaned loads of parts ready to go back on.
Mark.
Shells fitted ready for crank
Engine rebuild paste liberally applied
Test fit of crank after a good clean of the journals
Bloody thrusts are the wrong ones Dohh. The ones that came out are 2.44mm and these are 2.00mm
Ill fit the pistons then as I cant do the crank now
Pistons nice and snug
Nice
Ill get new thrusts tommorow so I can finish it off. I cleaned loads of parts ready to go back on.
Mark.
182cup & 172 racecar
Looking good already.
BMW Z4
Yeh im annoyed about the thrusts as I would have got it together today but for them
I always get at least one wrong part no matter who I'm dealing with doh! WTF!! Pistons look nice in the bores though. I am assuming that at 2.44mm they probably started off as 2.5 and have worn a bit.
BMW Z4
So I got a bit more done and as you can see the dirty parts from the floor have turned into clean parts on the enigne
Crank looking good all bolted up now.
Oil pump fitted
Let's start on fitting and timing up the cams then
My parts pile seems to be getting smaller
Ill get some more done tommorow as the selant turns up at Audi for doing the sump and new studs for the exhaust manifold. I am going to fully build the engine and gearbox up so i can just slot it back in in one movement. Then I only have to connect the exhaust and gearbox shafts up
Mark.
Crank looking good all bolted up now.
Oil pump fitted
Let's start on fitting and timing up the cams then
My parts pile seems to be getting smaller
Ill get some more done tommorow as the selant turns up at Audi for doing the sump and new studs for the exhaust manifold. I am going to fully build the engine and gearbox up so i can just slot it back in in one movement. Then I only have to connect the exhaust and gearbox shafts up
Mark.
182cup & 172 racecar
Mark, you have too much time on your hands.
BMW Z4
Not for long buddy, started looking for a new contract now and then ill be off so I must get as much done as possible in the time I have available.
BMW Z4
BMW Z4
I have no idea. I would have to ask Keith at Dialynx as he built it originally.
I just noticed the key on the crank pulley is to small, either that or it has worn/snapped. The pulley can move back and forth a bit. Better get a new one.
BMW Z4
Looks like the key is part of the pulley.
BMW Z4
The car is slowly coming together. The engine has been a ***** though, so many mis matched parts on this engine it's a joke to get the right parts for it but im nearly there! The timing belt is off a Mk2 golf gti 16 valve LOL. 147 teeth.
Sump dry fit and also nice and clean thanks to Ally clean
Manifold being tidied up
Sump fitted
My bottom pulley had a knackered key in (fault number 50) it so I bought a new one.
Now that engine looks better huh?
Fitting the fire supression system in. 4 nozzles to the engine bay
My subframe being modified
My mates rather large lathe, this is one of 3 this size!!
My modified cam pulley to bring it out 3.5mm so the belt dont lip. This is because the Audi 80 head does not line up correctly with the bottom pulley. The cam pulley was on the wrong way around to counter this but that was not an elegant solution for me.
Peddle box fitted with some anti slip flooring.
More to come
Sump dry fit and also nice and clean thanks to Ally clean
Manifold being tidied up
Sump fitted
My bottom pulley had a knackered key in (fault number 50) it so I bought a new one.
Now that engine looks better huh?
Fitting the fire supression system in. 4 nozzles to the engine bay
My subframe being modified
My mates rather large lathe, this is one of 3 this size!!
My modified cam pulley to bring it out 3.5mm so the belt dont lip. This is because the Audi 80 head does not line up correctly with the bottom pulley. The cam pulley was on the wrong way around to counter this but that was not an elegant solution for me.
Peddle box fitted with some anti slip flooring.
More to come
Looking good, nice to know someone with machining facilities like that!
One point however, the fire extinguisher nozzles in the engine bay arent installed the way they're supposed to be.
You need to feed the T-piece from the bottom, not side entry, as it is just now the rear nozzles will not deliver much gas as it will basically just flow straight past the branch on the side.
I've got exactly the same kit in my car and spoke to one of the guys at lifeline about alternatives to using a T as it can be difficult to accomodate in a lot of installations. They do a Y-piece which will still deliver equal amounts of gas to both outlets and is easier to fit.
One point however, the fire extinguisher nozzles in the engine bay arent installed the way they're supposed to be.
You need to feed the T-piece from the bottom, not side entry, as it is just now the rear nozzles will not deliver much gas as it will basically just flow straight past the branch on the side.
I've got exactly the same kit in my car and spoke to one of the guys at lifeline about alternatives to using a T as it can be difficult to accomodate in a lot of installations. They do a Y-piece which will still deliver equal amounts of gas to both outlets and is easier to fit.
BMW Z4
That's an interesting point. Why do they sell the kit with T pieces if they dont work and flow past them? Seems a bit anal that! I will get some Y pieces as to feed those in the engine bay from the bottom will be a f**king pain the the f**king arse of bending pipes etc.
It says in the installation manual they have to be installed with the feed at the bottom, or at least the diagrams show the pipework configured like that.
I bought a wee pipe bender on ebay that does various sizes, 3/16 for my brake pipes, and it also does 5/16 which was perfect for bending this pipe, granted you can bend it easily with your thumbs but the pipe bender makes a neater job of it.
I bought a wee pipe bender on ebay that does various sizes, 3/16 for my brake pipes, and it also does 5/16 which was perfect for bending this pipe, granted you can bend it easily with your thumbs but the pipe bender makes a neater job of it.
BMW Z4
I managed to change em around with not much bother, thanks for the heads up.
Clio 172
Worked for Ferrari last year at Le Mans.
BMW Z4
Missed these updates..
Man there are a LOT of jobs on this rebuild. It has been more work that I thought simply because I remove something and see it needs redesigning so its taking a lot longer than a normal reuild would. Anyway here are some parts I had made
My stainless subframe mount kit, a much better solid dogbone and a nicer cap for the hall switch.
I decided to fit the H&R anti roll bars I had lying around. For this of course you re-use the standard mounts.
If you are careful you can drill out the riv nut using a 13mm drill and still use the nut part again
This is my modified subframe so the mount for my rack does not push the gaitor off the end like it was before!
My bushes fitted. 1mm stainless. You have to loosen the whole subframe for these to fit nicely
This is the engine just about complete
And back in the car
LOADS more to do
This is a tentative list of jobs left over!
1. Doors need rehanging
2. Door upper window frames need putting in doors
3. Plastic windows need fitting to door frames unless you use the frame the window is in if those frames are as good as the other frames that came out of the good steel doors.
4. Rear steel tailgate needs fitting
5. Front steel bonnet needs fitting
6. Rear tailgate plastic window needs taking out of carbon tailgate and fitting in steel one
7. Front bumper support black panel needs fitting. This might need a lot of fettling and cutting so it fits and the rad and intercooler fit underneath it. The other front panel (The one without the ally bumper bit on it)
8. Front bumper needs fitting securely to front panel and wings
9. Front bonnet pins need fitting, these can be taken from the carbon bonnet
10. Rear bumper needs fitting (this was held on with wood chip screws LOL)
11. Exhaust needs fitting. There is a bit on the back box that needs cleaning and welding as it is leaking there. Just a dab of mig should do it
12. Front callipers need balance pipes making and fitting on the bottoms.
1. Carbon door cards need fitting by using M6 riv nuts and M6 blue counter sunk with blue washer I guess one in each corner, Door centres can be cut out but leave room for mounting door card and door frame mounts
2. Carbon door handles need fitting to top centre of doors with M6 riv nuts and blue fixings
3. The two screen heaters need fitting so they point up at screen as close the screen, then a small cut out needs making in dash panel so they just poke though each side.
4. Brakes need bleeding front and rear.
5. Clutch needs bleeding
1. Headlights need fitting if they arrive (I ordered new ones as again the other ones were cut etc)
2. Seat needs fitting
3. Caliper's need painting white with Foliatec kit
4. Drain diff oil
5. Drain haldex oil
6. Replace haldex filter
7. Clean engine loom
Repair the other driveshaft with kit in box
Fit both shafts tourque to 70Nm and I think 140nm outer bolt (need to check)
Pipe up water system and intercooler system with cleaned samco hoses and mikalor clips
Fit water expansion tank lower down left side so bonnet shuts
Fit catch tank system right side so bonnet shuts
Fit dash
Fit centre console
Fit switch panel to centre console with M8 riv nut
Fit rear fuel pump and filter back underneath car on the hangers
Run pipe through car secured with M5 riv nuts and P clips
Pipe in swirl pot in engine bay and high pressure fuel pump in engine bay
Fit engine loom
Get interior loom made
Map car
Corner weight car
Win races!!!!
Pheww not much left to do then
Man there are a LOT of jobs on this rebuild. It has been more work that I thought simply because I remove something and see it needs redesigning so its taking a lot longer than a normal reuild would. Anyway here are some parts I had made
My stainless subframe mount kit, a much better solid dogbone and a nicer cap for the hall switch.
I decided to fit the H&R anti roll bars I had lying around. For this of course you re-use the standard mounts.
If you are careful you can drill out the riv nut using a 13mm drill and still use the nut part again
This is my modified subframe so the mount for my rack does not push the gaitor off the end like it was before!
My bushes fitted. 1mm stainless. You have to loosen the whole subframe for these to fit nicely
This is the engine just about complete
And back in the car
LOADS more to do
1. Doors need rehanging
2. Door upper window frames need putting in doors
3. Plastic windows need fitting to door frames unless you use the frame the window is in if those frames are as good as the other frames that came out of the good steel doors.
4. Rear steel tailgate needs fitting
5. Front steel bonnet needs fitting
6. Rear tailgate plastic window needs taking out of carbon tailgate and fitting in steel one
7. Front bumper support black panel needs fitting. This might need a lot of fettling and cutting so it fits and the rad and intercooler fit underneath it. The other front panel (The one without the ally bumper bit on it)
8. Front bumper needs fitting securely to front panel and wings
9. Front bonnet pins need fitting, these can be taken from the carbon bonnet
10. Rear bumper needs fitting (this was held on with wood chip screws LOL)
11. Exhaust needs fitting. There is a bit on the back box that needs cleaning and welding as it is leaking there. Just a dab of mig should do it
12. Front callipers need balance pipes making and fitting on the bottoms.
1. Carbon door cards need fitting by using M6 riv nuts and M6 blue counter sunk with blue washer I guess one in each corner, Door centres can be cut out but leave room for mounting door card and door frame mounts
2. Carbon door handles need fitting to top centre of doors with M6 riv nuts and blue fixings
3. The two screen heaters need fitting so they point up at screen as close the screen, then a small cut out needs making in dash panel so they just poke though each side.
4. Brakes need bleeding front and rear.
5. Clutch needs bleeding
1. Headlights need fitting if they arrive (I ordered new ones as again the other ones were cut etc)
2. Seat needs fitting
3. Caliper's need painting white with Foliatec kit
4. Drain diff oil
5. Drain haldex oil
6. Replace haldex filter
7. Clean engine loom
Repair the other driveshaft with kit in box
Fit both shafts tourque to 70Nm and I think 140nm outer bolt (need to check)
Pipe up water system and intercooler system with cleaned samco hoses and mikalor clips
Fit water expansion tank lower down left side so bonnet shuts
Fit catch tank system right side so bonnet shuts
Fit dash
Fit centre console
Fit switch panel to centre console with M8 riv nut
Fit rear fuel pump and filter back underneath car on the hangers
Run pipe through car secured with M5 riv nuts and P clips
Pipe in swirl pot in engine bay and high pressure fuel pump in engine bay
Fit engine loom
Get interior loom made
Map car
Corner weight car
Win races!!!!
Pheww not much left to do then
BMW Z4
Lots of progress and I am on the home stretch now
At last! This has been a much bigger build than I imagined (arnt they always eh)
Much better wrapping on the downpipe. Should help with heat in the bay. I have also wrapped the manifold. I use Cv joint straps for this as they never come off!
Gave the intercooler a lick of paint to tidy it up a bit.
My nice new hall switch cap
A much better looking condesate unit. I went with the white theme on ally pipes. Ally is such a pain to keep clean in an engine bay. I just have to be carefull not to scratch the white
Much better wrapping on the downpipe. Should help with heat in the bay. I have also wrapped the manifold. I use Cv joint straps for this as they never come off!
Gave the intercooler a lick of paint to tidy it up a bit.
My nice new hall switch cap
A much better looking condesate unit. I went with the white theme on ally pipes. Ally is such a pain to keep clean in an engine bay. I just have to be carefull not to scratch the white
BMW Z4
So as you can see much progress has been made and I am now on the home stretch
Haldex Gen 4 Filter Replacement Kit
which I have only managed to find in the states?? Any ideas on that?
BMW Z4
The car is now finished and has gone to NMS for interior wiring loom, map and corner weighting.
A nice front end shot
The switch panel has been made from a solid billet of ally.
I fitted a small washer bottle and will use the storm washer on the wiper arm
So next is wiring, run in, map, corner weight and then race at cadwell may 11th hopefully and then win of course..
We will see.
A nice front end shot
The switch panel has been made from a solid billet of ally.
I fitted a small washer bottle and will use the storm washer on the wiper arm
So next is wiring, run in, map, corner weight and then race at cadwell may 11th hopefully and then win of course..
We will see.
182cup & 172 racecar
Very nice Mark.
A 'Shed' no more.
A 'Shed' no more.
