incy-spider
ClioSport Club Member
Thought I had nur footage on my phone, it’s on my NAS so I’ll dig it out!
I’ll give you £100 kesh. Can collect tonight. Let me know.
Sound. Setting off now 👍🏻Okay mate! [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
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Currently thinking about selling my Clio.. I keep thinking about a new project and unfortunately can’t find anyway to fund it without selling this on.
Would seriously consider it if the right offer came around, I’ve owned it for 13+ years so would be like selling my arm!
Little spec list
Engine:
Clio 182 block and head, Megane 265 pistons and rods with valve cutouts, grooves for bearings machined into big ends
NPR NE piston rings
Bores honed
ACL race bearings
ARP rod studs and nuts
OEM head gasket (.65)
Supertec inconel valves
Head faced and valve stem seals replaced
9:1 comp ratio
GTX2860R ceramic ball bearing Gen 2 v band anti surge turbo with 11blade billet compressor wheel
Custom v band manifold
AEM water methonal injection
Huge AEM water methonal tank
630cc Deka Siemens injectors
Ph1 fuel rail with reg and return
Radium engineering fuel damper
GEN90 Ecu
Boost control
Fuel swirl pot external pump (quiet)
PMS full exhaust system, with custom PMS down pipe
Mishimoto J-line race intercooler
Custom Pro alloy triple pass radiator 50mm core
Lower temp thermostat
Engine bay ducting
Mocal oil cooler
Gearbox:
all from PMS 089 casing with PMS strengthening plate, gearbox rebuilt 3months ago, new bearings throughout, new synchros, RSX racing Soloutions LSD, new shims, driveshaft couplings/gear fresh from Spain when gearbox built. RTS 5 puck custom paddle clutch with stronger clutch pressure plate and centre hub rated for power.
Chassis:
Custom rate Bilstien front coilover, dyno’d to suit 512lb springs
Rear Bilstien coil overs with progressive spring rate
Northloop roll centre kit
Rear white line arb
300mm PMS brembo kit
Braided lines
PMS top mounts and brace
Braided lines
ABS computer feed lines moved from bulkhead to allow more space for heat shield
Vibra Technic engine mounts (no vibration)
PMS rear axle 10mm shims
PMS wheels studs
DS1.11 pads up front DS2500 rear
Interior/exterior:
Very tidy, immaculate everything.
Recaro trendlines with Jon Foz subframes
OMP steering wheel and boss
PLX devices multi gauge, wideband/boost
Alpine DAB head unit
Focal speakers
Currently on 86k miles, 372hp 360lb ft
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Sound. Setting off now [emoji1303]
So come on then, what’s the next potential project then mate?
Forgot to add the AP racing clutch master cylinder and PMS wilwood hydraulic slave
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How much would you want for it?
Gives folk an idea. [emoji57]
You can potentially convert the 182 head to run with the 197 belt setup by simply removing the idler pulley below the inlet camshaft mate. That’s the pulley you have to add to run a 197 head on a 1*2 block, so I can’t see why reversing the idea wouldn’t work.Few things to think about, the main one being the reposition of pulleys on the timing belt, as using the 182 head on the 197 block.. if anyone has done similar feel free to share.
Also alternator, AC pump setup… will be all the 197/225 bracket, alternator tensioner. But thinking about the AC pump, may be able to run the 182 one somehow. Again thoughts on this if any?
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I like this! It’ll probably be fairly obvious when I have them side by side.. thanks mate!You can potentially convert the 182 head to run with the 197 belt setup by simply removing the idler pulley below the inlet camshaft mate. That’s the pulley you have to add to run a 197 head on a 1*2 block, so I can’t see why reversing the idea wouldn’t work.
You may need to run a bolt in the thread of where the pulley was though to stop any potential oil leaks. It shouldn’t do, but it’s drilled all the way through to a head bolt from memory.
1*2 bottom pulley is smaller than the 197 item as well, so no need to worry about water pump speeds as that is driven by the cambelt on a 197. A lot of people run the 1*2 bottom pulley as a ‘upgrade’ with it being smaller - less rotational mass. Cup racers ran this setup.
Maybe the belt will be too long? Since the tensioner is lower on 182 head.You can potentially convert the 182 head to run with the 197 belt setup by simply removing the idler pulley below the inlet camshaft mate. That’s the pulley you have to add to run a 197 head on a 1*2 block, so I can’t see why reversing the idea wouldn’t work.
You may need to run a bolt in the thread of where the pulley was though to stop any potential oil leaks. It shouldn’t do, but it’s drilled all the way through to a head bolt from memory.
1*2 bottom pulley is smaller than the 197 item as well, so no need to worry about water pump speeds as that is driven by the cambelt on a 197. A lot of people run the 1*2 bottom pulley as a ‘upgrade’ with it being smaller - less rotational mass. Cup racers ran this setup.
I don’t think there will be an issue tbh.Maybe the belt will be too long? Since the tensioner is lower on 182 head.
I've got this problem with tensioner position when going to 197 head and tap the idler in the same position as 182. Then was a pain to find a good diameter pulley.
Neither me until I was in that situation... )I don’t think there will be an issue tbh.
How much of a notch is actually needed
Is it still for sale?
It's not been done right if they've regretted it. The gearbox suits a clio turbo perfectly!how are you finding it. I’ve seen a few people who fitted F4rt plus ndo day they regretted it
That better not be aimed at me 😉😂😂I’ve seen a few ‘efforts’ too!
That better not be aimed at me [emoji6][emoji23][emoji23]
What I didn't enjoy was the added weight over the front of the car, I felt like the charismatic charm and handling of the clio was negated although that could have been down to the suspension I was running.
Think an Lsd would have significantly improved the drive too, what I didn't enjoy was also how fast it went through the gears. I felt like I was always one handed driving.