Well it looks like it has worked in the real world so logical (guessing) isn't always right.
James nor Ian have stated at what temp or rpm their oil pressure is, therefore you're all guessing for no reason!!
Mine was 3bar hot 100deg at 4k with a new spring from France (few ex work guys i know who run private firms where i used to get my bits from) runs at 5-6bar under same conditions, using Millers 10/40. The spec for the Group A Clios was 5bar at 5k i think or something like that but run thinner oil than 10/60.
Running 3-3.5 bar in a comp engine hot at above 6-7k isnt good. Even the rule of thumb is 1bar per 1k rpm. Whatever the reason it seems to have worked but with mine it was the spring.
Yes going sky high was in my mind as its a bugger to get the sump off with the engine being mounted on the subframe , wasn't looking forward to getting at it to change the shim , if anyone is interested I shimmed it 3.5mm
its weird how some are saying they have over 5 bar standard , but more are saying 3:5 to 4 , that's a big difference for it to be slight differences in the engines
James nor Ian have stated at what temp or rpm their oil pressure is, therefore you're all guessing for no reason!!
Yes when I change to Castrol edge 10/60 I might even get a bit more pressure when hot , this tesco stuff is like water !
yes the pressure is higher up the revs , up to say 3k it's about the same as standard , there are some pictures I added of the inside of a pump not so long ago on the link below, this was an after market pump not a genuine one though
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?713539-Updated-oil-pump-relief-spring
you know what the interweb is like, everyone is bloody expert
Was a brand new pump and spring.Maybe your standard spring had gone weak or was mis manufactured in some way, as 3 bar at 6-7K is way lower than I would expect, in which case a stiffer spring would certainly help.
Regarding the oil pump , I wonder if it would work and have more low down pressure if a change of size in the drive on the pump , having a smaller gear made and fitted , along with shortening the chain , that would make the pump spin faster and produce more pressure , the unknown would be how it would cope at the high revs , and obviously spinning faster
Its finding out the speed it starts cavitation which is the trick bit there. Not a game I'd want to be playing with an engine you care about TBH.
Hasnt the MSA just outlawed these in a Blue book update? Was thinking of these myself. Big thing about LED vs origional fitment, carnt remeber the detail.