newbie with a clio cup race car

[ian-speedy]

Got the car back from the electrician today , got a few loose ends to finish off when the engine and gearbox is back in , but 99% of the system is all up and running , need to make up a proper centre console and fix it all in properly as well , going to rip into it tomorrow and should have under the bonnet finished ready to refit the engine , shouldn't be far off running this weekend

Welcome back !

Need to get the wheels all done the same colour , I like the look of the anthracite better

Has an X bar fitted to the now drivers side , the LHD race cars only have an X bar on the nearside , and just one bar on the off side.

At the same time I had stronger seat rails fitted , I like to know I'm as safe as possible when tanking down lanes at over a ton !

Waiting for the dash top to come back from the flockers , you can see the new wiring loom , had them fit a standard windscreen wiper stalk rather than switches that were fitted before , they are a lot easier to find in the middle of a rally , need it all to come naturally instead of looking for switches

Will include some more photo's as I go on

 

[mikekean]

Looking good. Liking the new door bar looks exactly like the otherside, unlike others i have seen previously which just had welded 2 extra bars to the single one. Im still running a single so fingers crossed i wont need to use it before i get chance to put a cross one in haha.

Did you get my PM about corner weights for the suspension?

 

[ian-speedy]

Got quite a lot done over the last two days , got the engine and box back in , welded up the holes in the LHD pedal box , sprayed it and fitted it back on to seal the hole , made a plate and sprayed it to block up the steering column hole but need to fit that on the inside , go the dash back from being flocked , they did a good job of building up the gap around the heater vents as the only place they could go was on the curve of the dash as the bulkhead and cage would be in the way , that looks real nice , just need to refit the Renault build plate in the centre of the dash.
Splashed out on some AP 4 pots for it , the standard calipers and discs need replacing anyway , so decided to make a 295mm kit so will make up some discs bells and brackets in the next couple of days and send them off for anodising
I'm hoping to at least have the engine running tomorrow , just need to get a RHD pedal box with a cable throttle now and will have it driving then

 

[Fletcher]

Looks bloody great.

 

[welshname]

Im not sure which i prefer, the car or the van lol! Wish i had the kind of money needed to fund this stuff.

 

[IcemanUK]

Love the furry dice touch LOL

 

[adam172]

just. WOW! were do you/can you source all the cup racer parts from?

 

[Timmyevo6]

who did your re-wire to include the lights and indicators ETC, i need my cup racer doing soon when i re-shell it into right hand drive.

cheers.

 

[ian-speedy]

Love the furry dice touch LOL

this adds 20 hp throughout the rev range lol

just. WOW! were do you/can you source all the cup racer parts from?

Direct from renault motorsports , there isn't a lot I would need to get from them though , only the front hub parts , engine mounts and subframe , could source all other parts for my car from elsewhere , or make it

who did your re-wire to include the lights and indicators ETC, i need my cup racer doing soon when i re-shell it into right hand drive.

cheers.

A local guy to me did it , he started from scratch so only have the engine loom left from the original car , all other wiring is new , it cost me £900 to have done , and he's done a very good job

 

[ian-speedy]

who did your re-wire to include the lights and indicators ETC, i need my cup racer doing soon when i re-shell it into right hand drive.

cheers.

just to add , its easier to convert yours to RHD rather than reshelling it , unless it needs doing

 

[chrispy.clio]

£900!!!

I'm not charging enough!!!!

Looks great so far, you've done a great job.

 

[BIGASH]

£900 sounds like a bargain to me!! Looks like a great project and will be good to see it up and running! Good luck

 

[ian-speedy]

I paid double that for the loom in my M3 , but that was using Raychem wires , and the pop out aircraft fuses , the loom on this car is a good job.

Was hoping to get it running today but haven't had much time to work on it , I have made up the 295mm discs , will make the bells either tonight or in the morning

 

[chrispy.clio]

Yeah looms built from scratch are crazy money for places like TDF and the wizards of wiring or what ever they are called. £900 is great price for interiour looms I suppose, I charge £899.99 now

Good luck with getting it all running

 

[ian-speedy]

Got the front end back on yesterday , starting to look more like a car now

Started on the front brake kit last night , have the AP 4 pot calipers , Ferodo DS2500 pads , I have machined up some 295mm discs and bells

Here are the alloy billets

Inside half of the bell done

outside finished

Drilling it out

Sent them out for anodising so hopefully get them back tomorrow and fit the kit on

 

[Nickson]

Bloody awesome car!
Love the write up so far Ian

 

[ian-speedy]

disc and bell finished apart from anodising

 

[shiftspark]

Great job with the disc's and bells , maybe worth making up kits to sell on here ?

Also what sort of spring rates are you using, unless its secret of course ! as I have been looking at AST's but the spring rates look way too hard for sprints/hillclimbing and think a tarmac rally setup would be ideal.

Cheers

 

[ian-speedy]

HI
I don't know the spring rates , but the numbers on them are 61-270 on the fronts and 30-300 , as mine are 3 way adjustable , and they can be made hard or soft , the springs would be totally different to a non adjustable setup
Cheers Ian

 

[JackJack]

Looks great! Wish i could do stuff like that.

 

[shiftspark]

HI
I don't know the spring rates , but the numbers on them are 61-270 on the fronts and 30-300 , as mine are 3 way adjustable , and they can be made hard or soft , the springs would be totally different to a non adjustable setup
Cheers Ian

Hi thanks, whens your 1st event and where ? cheers

 

[ian-speedy]

Hi thanks, whens your 1st event and where ? cheers

HI
I was looking to do the Jersey rally , not so sure now they way things are going , it starts 3 weeks today , I would guess I have about 3-4 days left working on it , then get it setup at Mark Fish motorsport , MSA log booked , MOT'd , and then test it to get a feel of the way it drives , to get all this done in that time is looking unlikely , so i'll look for a single venue rally in november sometime to give it a shake down , may do a couple of small events , the next main one I will do is West Cork , Southern Ireland is an amazing place for rallying , as it all on closed roads , shear heaven lol.

I got quite a lot done to my car today , most of the outside is finished now bar making a sump and tank guard , got the bells back from anodising today so fitted the kit on

I'm hoping the pedal box I bought from a member on here turns up tomorrow so I can fit that , the brake lines , heater box , and get it started and running

Cheers Ian

 

[.Kev.]

EPIC!!!

 

[shiftspark]

What size wheels are you going to use ?

Should go very well with those Reigers on I think a few of the wrc teams run them ?

 

[ian-speedy]

I am running 15" wheels , and have had the final drive changed so it will go about 120mph , so should fly through the gears.

Reigers are best of the best , and at a very good price for what they are , I needed to fit 3 way stuff to run on Irish events as its so bumpy out there

 

[p@blo]

HI
I don't know the spring rates , but the numbers on them are 61-270 on the fronts and 30-300 , as mine are 3 way adjustable , and they can be made hard or soft , the springs would be totally different to a non adjustable setupCheers Ian

How come Ian? Couldn't tell from the pics, are they prog or linear wound? Have you fabricated topmounts or you still using the oem mount position?

 

[ian-speedy]

The springs will be softer on mine , as I can stiffen up the suspension on the separate cans , they are adjustable for fast and slow bump , and rebound. don't know how the springs are made.
I have retained the race car top mounts and strut brace , and had the struts made to suit.

 

[p@blo]

The springs will be softer on mine , as I can stiffen up the suspension on the separate cans , they are adjustable for fast and slow bump , and rebound. don't know how the springs are made.
I have retained the race car top mounts and strut brace , and had the struts made to suit.

They look a nice bit of kit. Interesting you say the compression adjustment would facilitate softer spring rates.

 

[ian-speedy]

They look a nice bit of kit. Interesting you say the compression adjustment would facilitate softer spring rates.

The top end suspension units are miles more advanced than the fancy road or track stuff

 

[p@blo]

The top end suspension units are miles more advanced than the fancy road or track stuff

So what kind of valve design have Reiger opted for in these external reservoirs Ian? Have they deviated from the typical shim/bypass setup? Sounds to be some interesting tech for it to be directly influencing spring rate effect through a damping adjustment. So is this advanced valving design also why they've not opted for any geo adjustment on the topmounts and stuck with the static Renault spherical jointed setup? Only ask, as I've seen it before with some of the fancy road/track kits you mentioned.

 

[ian-speedy]

lol , do I sense a hint of sarcasm ??

I have no idea of the insides of my struts so can't comment on there designs , what I was getting at is I am running softer spring rates than a tarmac car with no adjustment , and can adjust them stiffer if I am running on smoother surfaces , the high speed bump being the immediate shock loading , as in pot holes , landings ect and the low speed bump as in fast cornering , then the rebound on how quickly the shock with release back out after compressing.

My camber adjustment in on the top bolt of the hubs , I wanted to keep my original top mounts and strut brace , that was nothing to do with reigers design

Cheers Ian

 

[p@blo]

lol , do I sense a hint of sarcasm ??

I have no idea of the insides of my struts so can't comment on there designs , what I was getting at is I am running softer spring rates than a tarmac car with no adjustment , and can adjust them stiffer if I am running on smoother surfaces , the high speed bump being the immediate shock loading , as in pot holes , landings ect and the low speed bump as in fast cornering , then the rebound on how quickly the shock with release back out after compressing.

My camber adjustment in on the top bolt of the hubs , I wanted to keep my original top mounts and strut brace , that was nothing to do with reigers design

Cheers Ian

Lol, nooo-of course not!! :rasp:

Was just trying to figure out your reasoning to retain the static point on the top mount as been led to believe by others that on a macpherson setup, this has greater influence over incremental adjustment than the hubside mount point (also loses caster adjustment). Was it you who was modding the pick up point on the w/bone outers a while back by the way?

 

[shiftspark]

Where did you get the strut pic from p@blo ?

I can see why you need trick suspension for Irish events as it's pretty unique as a few works teams used to find , unless you are Patrick Snijers !!

 

[p@blo]

A friends Clio rally Col, was a pre-fab kit he got with the dampers with solid mounts for the rears too. Would you be allowed to do that with the sprint regs-seems daft you're tied to the oem mounts

 

[ian-speedy]

The photo of the top mount has no caster adjustment from what I can see , only camber , I haven't modified my cup arms at all , the 2 strut to hub fixing bolts , have a 16mm lower one , and the top one is machined down so as to move the hub for camber , there is a lot of movement on it to adjust it , more than I can imagine that adjustable top mount giving you.

I think with the varied surfaces you find on a rally , the set up isn't as critical as a smooth race track , on a track you can find tenths of a second with minute changes , a rally car would not as your forever sliding the car , you just disengage your brain to find the extra seconds lol

Is your mate who rallies called Simon Moore ?

 

[p@blo]

Good spot RE caster. Missing extra rotational mount holes-pics an old one I just referred to for the turret mod. See where you're coming from with the range of adjustment of one versus the other. Was just curious about why you'd kept a fixed strut inclination in relation to the hub, but guess that answers my ponderings. The brain disengagement analogy made me lol... You have any testing vids in the clio up online anywhere?

 

[ian-speedy]

no i'm still putting it together , spent quite a bit of time on it this week , battling with the pedal box today so didn't get as much as I'd liked done , it should be all finished by next weekend , going to take it up to Mark Fish to have the suspension set up and corner weighted , then I'll take it up Llandow circuit which is only 5 miles away from me and have a proper drive in it , i'll put the camera in and post it up on youtube and put a link up

 

[p@blo]

Which pedalbox have you gone for? Saw someone else had mnetioned fitting one in a project thread a while back but hadn't seen any recent updates. Level of adjustability on throw and feel should be awesome when its in. Be good to see how things go in the first shakedown-you must be itching to drive the car by now! lol Look forward to seeing the footage.

 

[ian-speedy]

I'm using the standard pedal set up , but as the donor car I bought runs the fly by wire throttle I was going to fabricate a bracket to fit the cable throttle pedal from the LHD pedal box to the RHD one , but then thought it would be easier to buy one from an early car and get the throttle and clutch cable at the same time , only got that delivered yesterday , fitted it all together with the servo off the race car as these are larger than the road cars , after fitting it all together realised while trying to fit it all the servo wouldn't fit through the hole in the bulkhead as the servo it too big !
So had to strip it all down and fit it all separately , with the engine now in space was a problem , bolted the servo all in , then could fit the master cylinder as it was hitting the engine before going onto the studs , so had to remove the servo again , leave it loose fit the cylinder then fit it all back on , a right tw4t of a job that just went on forever !!

Now its all in the brake pedal is too low , not really sure why unless the LHD pedal box had a shorter bracket where the pedals fit on , so where the servo rod fits onto the pedal , i'll have to cut a section out and weld in a new section to extend the pedal to fit the servo on to bring the pedal back up in line with the clutch , just a small job that ended up taking all day FFS !!

The race cars do have a in line adjuster on the rear brakes , but its a crap on , so I will change that for an AP one , I have fitted a hydraulic handbrake kit onto the standard handbrake lever so will make up a new braided hose to fit all this back in this week , all the original front braided hoses are being reused , but I just have to swap the ends going onto the front calipers to banjo fittings.

I fitted the driver seat in yesterday to try it for fit , feels all good sitting in it , steering , gearstick and pedal position all feels comfortable , seat is nice and low how I like it , it should be all fairly simple from now ( famous last words ! ) the last biggest jobs will be making a sump and tank guard , but I can plod on with these , I don't need these fitted to have it all set up and tested

 

[ian-speedy]

talking of what the suspension has to cope with on irish events , this is Chris Meeke iin a super 1600 clio giving it beans !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLptg6BYNoo