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No more pictures, because I dont think photos of a day drilling out spot welds and scraping off seam sealer is very interesting.
Got some welding on the subframe done, and cleaned it up ready for painting.
Seam sealer off the front bulkhead so it can be seam welded; and the same for the rear turrets.
Drilled the spotwelds out on all the remaining brackets and took them off, including the reinforcement on the drivers side foot well.
Got some welding on the subframe done, and cleaned it up ready for painting.
Seam sealer off the front bulkhead so it can be seam welded; and the same for the rear turrets.
Drilled the spotwelds out on all the remaining brackets and took them off, including the reinforcement on the drivers side foot well.
Have been reinforcing any areas that might be weak when the car is subjected to a battering.
This meant doing some seam welding, plating and gusseting in various places.
First of all gave the already reinforced front subframe and rear beam a coat of Red Oxide ready for painting.
The mounts for the front of the subframe were plated and gusseted for strength, and again given a coat of red oxide
Seam welds on the inner wing and top of the front turret
Heres 2 photos showing both sides of the bulkhead with the extra seam welding
The corner of the chassis legs was stengthened with a bit of plating as you can see here
Here you can see most of where the seam welds and other stengthening have been done at the front, with it all given a coat of red oxide again
Inside the car, aswell as on the front bulkhead more was done on the floor and rear wheel arches. Will do some underneath at some point along the chassis rails.
Back at the front, the rear mounts for the subframe were plated. The plates were cut to size, tacked on in one place, heated up and bent to fit then finally welded on completely.
Now that is all done, next job is to get under the wheel arches and in the engine bay cleaned and primed so it can get painted.
This meant doing some seam welding, plating and gusseting in various places.
First of all gave the already reinforced front subframe and rear beam a coat of Red Oxide ready for painting.
The mounts for the front of the subframe were plated and gusseted for strength, and again given a coat of red oxide
Seam welds on the inner wing and top of the front turret
Heres 2 photos showing both sides of the bulkhead with the extra seam welding
The corner of the chassis legs was stengthened with a bit of plating as you can see here
Here you can see most of where the seam welds and other stengthening have been done at the front, with it all given a coat of red oxide again
Inside the car, aswell as on the front bulkhead more was done on the floor and rear wheel arches. Will do some underneath at some point along the chassis rails.
Back at the front, the rear mounts for the subframe were plated. The plates were cut to size, tacked on in one place, heated up and bent to fit then finally welded on completely.
Now that is all done, next job is to get under the wheel arches and in the engine bay cleaned and primed so it can get painted.
Clio 220 lpg
You have mentioned that you have the rear axle out. Make sure you weld some steel on to where the shocker bolts on, takes ten mins and will save you having to pull out of a rally. Also we made the front subframe stronger by welding 10mm box section down each side where the bottom wishbone fastens on, it meant drilling the spot welds out of the brackets, and then re weld them back on to the box but. I,m sure it has helped by making the car 20mm wider track. and the sadev drive shafts have handled it fine. Mined my shafts are from a 172 cup car where yours may be diff with being from a 16v. What front hubs are you using? as the 172 ones are very heavy I would be tempted to stick with 16v ones to save wait.
Looks good :lolup:
Looks good :lolup:
Thats a good idea about the rear beam thanks, was wondering how the standard fixing would cope with the new strut setup.
Not sure what we are doing about the front at the moment, the 16V driveshafts are too short I think so were going to either see if we could get some made up or get some 172 cup ones that fit the box.
The old car has modified hubs to take Laguna drive shaft ends so again not sure what we will end up with on this one. To start with at least will probably stick with the standard 172 hubs but will have to see.
Clio 220 lpg
Thats a good idea about the rear beam thanks, was wondering how the standard fixing would cope with the new strut setup. Quote
ours didn't cope
ours didn't cope
During the week, the subframe and rear beam have been primed, and the engine bay and under the front arches have had their first coat of primer.
Hopefully the front will get another coar of primer next week, and a coat of colour back.
The subframe and rear beam given a coat of chassis black, and can then go back on the car after the front has been sprayed again.
Hopefully the front will get another coar of primer next week, and a coat of colour back.
The subframe and rear beam given a coat of chassis black, and can then go back on the car after the front has been sprayed again.
Yeah used a press. Still not straightforward though as you needed to bodge up something to push the old ones out from the inside edge
yup, its going to be a single venue tarmac rally car.
They coilovers are bilstein inserts
will have to decide what to do when we see how much is left over after building this one.
Probably either sell it as a rolling shell or put an engine in it as a track car.
It's a pretty tidy shell, started life at Mark Fish's i think
you got anymore pics of it mate?is it a normal shell or a motorsport shell?
mk4 golf gttdi180
^or look at the light lol u dont ant argon eye
mk4 golf gttdi180
bodge it up use sockets and lump hammers lol
I can get some more pics no problem.
It's an ex clio cup shell from Mark Fish i think. Can dig out some paperwork probably
Ok, during the week it had a coat of racing blue in the engine bay, front and rear wheel arches and tops of the rear strut mounts.
Some better pictures of the paint work
Next job was to get it back on its wheels, so the front subframe had to be put back on. First the steering rack was bolted back on.
Then the wishbones put back on and just nipped up
Then just lifted up and the whole thing bolted back into place.
Next the struts were put back on, with the top plate being bolted into place. Looking nice!
Hubs needed to go back on next. They were taken off with the bottom ball joint still attached, so this was just bolted back onto the wishbone and the strut bolted on.
A lick of paint for the hub and the tie bar put back on and it was all done. Will tighten it all up fully after the engine and gearbox goes in.
Next the rear beam went back on; just 3 nuts each side, a bolt for each strut and it was done.
Wheels back on and it's mobile again, ready for whatever it is we get done next
Some better pictures of the paint work
Next job was to get it back on its wheels, so the front subframe had to be put back on. First the steering rack was bolted back on.
Then the wishbones put back on and just nipped up
Then just lifted up and the whole thing bolted back into place.
Next the struts were put back on, with the top plate being bolted into place. Looking nice!
Hubs needed to go back on next. They were taken off with the bottom ball joint still attached, so this was just bolted back onto the wishbone and the strut bolted on.
A lick of paint for the hub and the tie bar put back on and it was all done. Will tighten it all up fully after the engine and gearbox goes in.
Next the rear beam went back on; just 3 nuts each side, a bolt for each strut and it was done.
Wheels back on and it's mobile again, ready for whatever it is we get done next
that would be good cheers i'll pm you my email address if thats ok
Good stuff, nice progress as well mate
Spent the morning rubbing down and preparing the inside, and then it got a coat of white primer.
Started to strip down the doors aswell. Removed the glass and electric window mechanisms, then set about it with the grinder.
Took the middle of the inner skin off, and the other plastic bits inside.
Then used the grinder to cut the door bar stengthening bit in half, and drilled the spot welds out out each end to get it out.
Started to strip down the doors aswell. Removed the glass and electric window mechanisms, then set about it with the grinder.
Took the middle of the inner skin off, and the other plastic bits inside.
Then used the grinder to cut the door bar stengthening bit in half, and drilled the spot welds out out each end to get it out.
Yeah, got some plastic ones that will be fixed
Got a couple of boxes from Demon Tweeks (sorry for the rubbish pics)
A couple of Cobra Imola S seats
Brake bias valve
Roof vent
Bracket and master cylinder for the hydraulic handbrake
Aerocatches for the bonnet
Battery box
Lifeline plumbed in and handheld AFFF fire extinguisher kit
High intensity horn
A couple of Cobra Imola S seats
Brake bias valve
Roof vent
Bracket and master cylinder for the hydraulic handbrake
Aerocatches for the bonnet
Battery box
Lifeline plumbed in and handheld AFFF fire extinguisher kit
High intensity horn
